Two pillars of French culture, one truth: Frapin is an antique distillery that has tantalized the palates of cognac lovers for centuries, including the Sun King himself, Louis XIV, also specializing in olfactory delights for artistic fragrance lovers.
Among the oldest family lines still in living in France, for 20 generations Frapin has created its cognac- since 1270 to be precise- made to such perfection that in 1697 the Sun King, Louis XIV, bestowed upon Pierre Frapin a title of nobility. Heading the agency today is Jean-Pierre Cointreau, a son the Frapin family line and Max Cointreau, heir of the eponymous liquor dynasty. In 2002, the maison began to explore a new industry sector, at first seemingly quite different: perfumery. The result evolved over the years to include a line of fragrances inspired by the heritage of the brand, under the close supervision of David Frossard, Creative Director of Frapin Perfume, with whom spoke about fragrances and precious Millésime.
Cognac and perfume. What is the link? Cognac and perfume are two pillars of French culture. In addition they have a similar distillation process. Cognac is a blend made from “maître de chai,” that mixes various notes to obtain the final flavour. A masterpiece created through taste, but also through the olfactory sense, much like how a perfumer designs a fragrance, thanks to his or her expert “nose.”
What is the oldest bottle of cognac preserved in the Fontpinot Castle? We have several that are all over 100 years old.
What is the best-seller? The Frapin Millésime are recognized for being the finest Millésime and the finest liquors.
Frapin Cognac pairs perfectly with…? Chocolate and cigars for sure. Frapin Cognac has a warm aroma of vanilla, honey, nuts with floral aspects as well as fruity notes. The taste is soft and refined, but at the same time round and potent without being too strong.
Among the perfumes, is there one inspired by a particular cognac from the maison? Yes, “1270,” inspired by a legendary wine that was used at the beginning of the 20th century to create a cognac called “La Folle Blanche.” The name of the fragrance, however, is the date in which the Frapin family, one of the oldest family lines in France, settled in the Charente region. Among the family ancestry is the famous French writer François Rabelais, who wrote the acclaimed romance series The Life of Gargantua and Pantagruel. In the castle there is still a cuvée that bears his name and his image inspired another one of our fragrances, “l’Humaniste.”
FELLINI E LA MODA- PERCORSI DI STILE DA CASANOVA A LADY GAGA
AUTOR|GIANLUCA LO VETRO
PUBLISHED BY|MONDADORI BRUNO
Brilliant, multifaceted, a true visionary: in a word he was a poet-dreamer who invented and re-invented the fairy-tale of classic Italian cinema, making it a mirror of his fervid, dizzying imagination, not unlike a stylized interpretation of our times. This was, and still is Federico Fellini, globally acclaimed not only for his exceptional skill in creating unforgettable films, but more importantly for his ability to build and manipulate the visual image in such a way strongly impacted viewers, and continues to inspire today’s Generation Y. So much so that if he were still alive today, in spite of himself, Fellini would be considered along with the formidable Giulietta Masina to be a great and indescribable “influencer,” to use the lexicon of the digital age. It would difficult to identify in just a few lines all the stylists, designers, artists and creatives who have been influenced by Fellini’s imaginative, dreamlike works, able to evoke entire worlds. One example lies in the forthcoming book Olympus, edited by Rosita Copioli (on shelves in 2017) which recalls Fellini’s archetypes of our imagination created in his distinctive, artistic and masterful way, with the freedom and critical intelligence of the great romanticist, and revealing the links between the filmmaker and the world of dress and society of his time and even more so, of ours. The hyperbole of Fellini’s protean genius is also the central subject of the 148-page book Fellini and Fashion – Style Paths from Casanova to Lady Gaga, written by journalist, scholar and university professor Gianluca Lo Vetro and published by Bruno Mondadori. Here, the author aims to point out connections between Fellini’s poetics and the current zeitgeist, based on a few of his iconic film references, thus demonstrating Fellini’s meaningful longevity. Examples of creative off-shoots building from Fellini’s aesthetic and societal vision range from mime Lindsay Kemp, who’s mannerisms influenced David Bowie‘s poses and gestures, the performance art of Leigh Bowery which provoked scandal outside the underground art scene of the 1980s, as well as the make-up and styling of models in one of Alexander McQueen‘s more memorable collections. “Fellini-ism,” without question, is all over John Galliano as well. The mad genius from Gibraltar has concocted collections clearly inspired by the director, most especially for Dior haute couture, sending cassock-clad models down the runway in a desecrating tribute to the unforgettable parade scene of cloaked priests in the film Roma. Fellini’s imagery and its sphere of influence are also quite pervasive in the psychedelic and over-the-top work of David LaChapelle, in films by Terry Gilliam and Paolo Sorrentino, as well as in the Dolce & Gabbana creative universe, which references both Anouk Aimée and her iconic little black dress along with the luscious curves of Anita Ekberg, the eternal embodiment of La Dolce Vita.
You love to travel, to discover new cities and the hottest places. At the first chance to take a holiday from the daily routine, you book a plane ticket, head out for an adventure. Or nearly. You know that technology and innovations are essential for your comfort and enjoyment while traveling. We’ve gathered a few tech toys just for you.
SleepPhones. It looks like a headband, created by the USA-based AcousticSheep. It plays the music of your choice to help you fall asleep: whether it’s a particular song or soothing sound. It is priced at $39,95 USD.
Lifestraw.Created by Swiss company Vestergaard Frandsen, it is a device that allows you to filter any water thanks to the presence of porous fibres the size of 0,02 micron. There are different models: from 26 Euros for the “personal” Lifestraw to 104 Euros for the “family” version, all available through the company’s webshop.
Scrubba.It is portable anD ecologically friendly washing machine, made up of a foldable waterproof sack that you fill with a small amount of water, a drop or two of detergent, and of course, your dirty laundry. Then just place Scrubba on top of a hard surface and scrub the closed bag from the outside. The product is sold by the Australian company of the same name on their official website for $55 AUD.
Modobag. Halfway between a trolley and a scooter Modobag is a motorized suitcase created by the eponymous Chicago-based start-up. A bag the traveller can drive simply by sitting astride it, it reaches a speed of 13 kilometres per hour and will be sold starting in early 2017 at a price of $995 USD (price varies per style).
Thermacell. Travelling in the coldest months of the year? Then you might enjoy the useful and original products to keep you warm, by USA-based Schawbel Technologies. Available online for around 65 Euros.
From TV serials to cinema, going through music, the Mexican actor reveals himself as an eclectic artist.
You are an authentic multitasking person, from acting to singing. When and where did you learn to do all these different roles? I like to express myself in different ways… acting… singing… painting… writing… They are all forms of expression and I can’t do jut one thing. For as long as I can remember, I’ve gotten bored of doing the same thing so I always like to alternate between one and another.
Your mother is Irish American and your father Mexican, how does this mix make an influence on you? Which are your favorite cities and reveries of these places? Where we come from means a lot… Where you grow up also influences a person. I feel blessed for having the parents I have and having such a mix of genes. Growing up I spent most my adolescence in a beautiful Mexican Town called San Miguel de Allende and then starting in my teens on I lived in Palo Alto in Northern California. I couldn’t tell you what my favorite cities are because Mexico and the US both have amazing cities, while Ireland is green, which in my book means it is beautiful.
You played for long time in many different soap operas. From popular teen drama “Clase 406” to “Talisman” and many more. Looking back at these series which are your favorite roles? What would you change? The first character I ever played will always be of special importance to me. People still talk about this character all the time. It left a mark on the fans and definitely left a mark on me. That was fourteen years ago. I have never stopped working from that day on. That’s the character that gave me the opportunity to build a career.
Which are your favorite directors inspiring for you and you would love to work with? There are lots of great directors out there. Impossible to pick just a few but I’m really proud of the films the Top Mexican directors are doing. I absolutely love Italian cinema as well- obviously there are many classic Italian films and directors. Love Sorrentino’s work, it’s fabulous.
You have been nominated among the sexiest man in the world. What is sexy for you? And a suggestions for all the men for being charming? Sexy and being charming for me is being yourself. Being a good person, being kind to everyone, being transparent and being honest.
How did the OVS underwear campaign come about? I met Bruno, the owner of Brave Models, and I told him I wanted to be in an underwear campaign. A couple months later I was in London shooting the campaign. Just like that.
When did you meet Lola for the first time what did you think of her? When did you decide to marry her? When I saw Lola for the firs time I was like “wow”, with my mouth wide open, and I couldn’t take my eyes of her. I decided I was going to marry her that exact moment.
How is your typical day like? Every day is different no matter if I’m filming or if I’m in vacation. The only difference between when if working on vacation is that when I’m in vacation I don’t wear shoes and I’m usually in the ocean.
What cannot be missing in your bag when you travel? Passport
How would you define your style? Unique (laughs).
Beside singing, which are your passions? Sports. Everything that has to do with the outdoors.
Your next projects and dreams for 2017? To keep having fun and enjoying myself. Projects come at the perfect moment, you just have to be ready when they come.
“Same beach, same sea” as the famous song goes, yet today few vacationers still harbour this traditional attitude toward travel. While in the past, the first step to taking a trip was to head over to a travel agency and be tantalised by their sparkling brochures, now more than ever before, travellers read, prepare, research, discover and book their trips. All, pretty much, autonomously.
It is a phenomenon that has impacted the travel industry for a number of years now, as travellers tired of the same two weeks of the same old summer vacation, now have all the means at their fingertips to custom design their own travel itineraries. Through the web, which reigns king for travel booking, customrs can discover new ways and means of travelling, all completely tailored made to their desires. For travel junkies, that may translate to a new experience, instead of a simple break from the daily grind, whether it’s couchsurfing, volunteer travel, homestay exchanges or a fusion of these via AirBNB or high-end hoteliers like English vacation rental site Onefinestay (www.onefinestay.com). There’s even genealogytourism (travel in search of discovering one’s ancestry and family origins), eco tourism and local-tourism.
In this vein, there are increasingly more means through which to bridge the gap between the vacationer and the destination’s small, local businesses, offering the possibility to create extraordinary travel itineraries. As such, “travel like a local,” is the motto of the creators of travel site Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com).
In addition to the already famous Cart’Orange (www.cartorange.com), i Viaggi di Atlantide (www.iviaggidiatlantide.it) and Earth (www.earthviaggi.it), a new player on the scene that has been experiencing extraordinary growth is Evaneos (www.evaneos.it), a French start-up created in 2009 by two friends that defied the standards of the current market. We spoke with Eric, one of the two founders, who explained how, just as a tailor custom creates a bespoke blazer, Evaneos provides a service to custom design a vacation from scratch.
What is Evaneos? It is the first marketplace that connects travellers with expert local tour guides who know their own city well. We wanted to create a platform that facilitates connections between people, travellers who want to discover a country or city at their own pace and according to their own desires, with professionals in the travel industry who know their town like the back of their hand, and thus can offer a personalized service.
What is the difference between a tourist and a traveller? A traveller, when he sees a street, wants to go off and explore it; a tourist, instead, cannot, because his group is waiting for him.
The ideal trip? It consists of knowing how to create moments and situations that leave us speechless, that let us discover something we hadn’t expected, or meet someone new, or see things that open our eyes.
Why is it so important to connect with locals to organize a holiday? Once a traveller organizes a trip with a true expert, he or she will never want to turn back. The local guide is the equivalent of having a friend who gives advice on where to find the hidden gems of the city. In addition, he or she is also a professional whose job it is to individually tailor each travel experience, aside from acting like a guardian angel who will make sure that everything goes as it should.
Do gentlemen still exist today? Or are they simply a legacy from the past? We asked the founder of the blog “YourGentleman”, Marco Cartasegna, who, after a successful career as a model and studying International Management, returns to his first passion: fashion. Thus, in 2015 he launched his blog, where he writes about his own personal style, elegance and his original creations.
“The gentleman today,” says Marco, “doesn’t exist as he did in the past century. Society has evolved, for better or for worse I’m not sure, but it certainly has changed. In this context, the new gentleman should often as possible to maintain ties to the values of the past, both in the most significant aspects of life and in everyday actions. He should always keep his word, not accumulate debts, respect women, even with small gestures like opening the car door for his better half…”
What are the modern gentleman’s passions and style?
“A gentleman’s passions can be varied, the important thing is to do what he loves with elegance and simplicity. He can even be elegant while playing rugby. The gentleman’s style is totally personal in his daily life, but he must respect etiquette when it is required. For example, it is unacceptable to show up at a black tie event in an “alternative” look.”
In light of speaking today’s gentleman, Marco interprets for MANINTOWN three looks from the Herno Fall/Winter 2016-2017 Collection. As Marco says, “the contemporary gentleman should adapt himself to the challenges of modern society by keeping his essence deeply rooted in the values of the past that inspire every daily act.” A philosophy in line with that of Herno, a company established on the shores of Lake Maggiore as far back as 1948. The brand skillfully combines tradition and innovation, intuition and creativity in every garment to accompany today’s chameleon-like man throughout every moment of the day.
For a walk in the park with his dachshund, Marco has chosen the classic 7 denier ultralight bomber. This down jacket combines functionality and aesthetic style: its padding is half fine goose down and half technical down, which adds waterproof protection, essential for the harsh winter. The insertion of goose down prevents excessive puffiness by assuring a slim fit and by enhancing the shape without adding visual weight. The collection is available in a range of energetic colors, of which Marco has chosen bright ochre. The perfect garment for gentlemen passionate about sports and the outdoors.
A round-up of faces and expressions of the new generation of Italian actors, captured for our readers in a style and music-driven photo shoot. Presenting a series of fashion images from formalwear to streetwear shot to the music of our nine protagonists’ favourite songs. MANINTOWN photographed the looks, investigating the actors’ passions and inspirations, representing a new Italian identity within film, television and theatre.
What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future? I hope that in my future will be more film. Coming up I will be on the big screen in the comedy Laciati Andare (Let Yourself Go) by Francesco Amato, with Toni Servillo, and Una Questione Privata (A Private Question) by the Taviani brothers alongside Luca Marinelli. Airing soon on TV is Tutto Puo Succedere 2 (Anything Can Happen 2).
What are your passions and how do you live them out? I play football when I can manage not to hurt myself, and I like to write- two passions that help me relax my body and my mind.
A must-have garment in your wardrobe? Socks.
Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit? My favourite place to be is at the beach.
Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“Love Will Tear Us Apart” by Joy Division)? The song I chose for the shooting was the first song I could think of.
RIMAU RITZBERGER
TOTAL LOOK|BURBERRY PRORSUM; EYEWEAR|L.G.R.
What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future? I just finished filming a short film about a character in Sardinia with the director Enrico Pau.
What are your passions and how do you live them out? I find refuge in literature or in film. Plus I also enjoy chess and running races.
A must-have garment in your wardrobe? A basic shirt.
Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit? The mountains.
Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“Toccata and Fugue in D Minor” by Bach)? Toccata and Fugue is linked to my family, to my father in particular, who plays the organ.
ALESSANDRO SPERDUTI
DENIM AND LEATHER JACKET|PHILIPP PLEIN; SUNGLASSES|L.G.R.
What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future? At the moment I am filming La Musica del Silenzio (The Music of Silence) with the director Michael Radford about the life of Andrea Bocelli, with Antonio Banderas, Ennio Fantastichini and other big stars. Coming out shortly on Rai 1 is Il Confine (The Border) by Carlo Carlei in which I play an irredentist in WWI.
What are your passions and how do you live them out? I am passionate about soundtracks and technology, and I try to combine those two things through my hobby of creating music on the computer. I love sport, from going to the gym to rock climbing to snowboarding
A must-have garment in your wardrobe? A black coat.
Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit? My ideal location would be a place with a lake among the mountains, like Lake Matheson in New Zealand, or Lake Braies in South Tyrol.
Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“New Born” by Muse)? It is a mysterious and powerful song, very inspiring, and reminds me of a difficult time in my life. I heard it played live at a festival in England.
FRANCESCO DI RAIMONDO
LEATHER JACKET|DIRK BIKKEMBERGS; TSHIRT AND DENIM TROUSERS|JBRAND; SHOES|MARSELL
What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future? I’m busy both with theatre and television. In theatre, I just acted in La Belva (The Beast) by Paolo Scotti, and a part in The Stranger by and about Orson Welles. On the small screen, I played Federico, a clarinet teacher on the series Romanza Famigliare (Family Romance), directed by Francesca Archbugi with Giancarlo Giannini and Vittoria Puccini that will air soon on Rai 1.
What are your passions and how do you live them out? I love music, I am on my fifth year studying clarinet at the Santa Cecilia Conservatory, I love dance, singing and sports like tennis, basketball and swimming.
A must-have garment in your wardrobe? I’m always wearing jackets, which I buy in Paris, and scarves.
Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit? The place for my body: the beaches of Zanzibar. The place for my mind: the library at the School of Philosophy at La Sapienza, from where I did my studies.
Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“Unnatural Selection” by Muse)? It is connected to a vacation I took in Brazil.
ERNESTO D’ARGENIO
SUIT|PHILIPP PLEIN
What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future? I’m currently on the set for the second season of Non Uccidere (Don’t Kill) co-staring in two episodes, and I am waiting to hear about working on a mini series by Riccardo Milani called Di Padre in Figlia (From Father to Daughter), where I would play a fashion photographer from the ’80s alongside co-star Matilde Gioli. In the meantime I am working on two stories for film and I am in talks about a piece for the theatre.
What are your passions and how do you live them out? I love to get lost among the streets, especially in a new city, following where inspiration leads me. Usually I travel with others, but often I find myself travelling alone without a set itinerary. Recently I’ve also become interested in motorbikes.
A must-have garment in your wardrobe? A great jacket that feels elegant but also free and relaxed.
Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit? The streets.
Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“Lust for Life” by Iggy Pop)? It makes me think of my apprentice year and my life in England when I was 19 and worked as a waiter earning 800 Euros a month.
What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future? Between film and theatre, I’m indifferent- I’ll choose whichever project excites me the most. I am writing a lot and filming a few small projects.
What are your passions and how do you live them out? Lots of music, from Pink Floyd to Bon Iver, from Chet Faker to Moderat, every genre; and also sport, I like to surf.
A must-have garment in your wardrobe? A black turtleneck
Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit? The sea.
Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“505” by the Arctic Monkeys)? Yes, it is connected to someone who is still part of my heart, regardless of everything.
DAVIDE IACOPINI
SMOKING|SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future? I am filming the second season of Non Uccidere (Don’t Kill) on Rai 3. In a few months I will begin another Rai programme and within the end of the year it should be in cinemas.
What are your passions and how do you live them out? I have been doing rock climbing for some time. When I can, I read, cook and play the harmonica.
A must-have garment in your wardrobe? I like technical materials, those that keep you warm without being encumbering. Also a great wool coat.
Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit? The mountains, the valley around Mont Blanc in particular. Facing that giant king relaxes me.
Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“I Heard It Through the Grapevine” covered by Creedence Clearwater Revival)? It reminds me of the grape harvests I did as a kid. And it’s one of the few songs I know how to play on the guitar.
GIUSEPPE MAGGIO
SUIT|DIRK BIKKEMBERGS
What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future? In January I have a TV series coming out on Canale 5, and another project I am working on in France that I cannot discuss. I hope my future brings both cinema and theatre because I love doing them both.
What are your passions and how do you live them out? I practice CrossFit, an American workout based on combining various exercises, increasing in intensity. I love the theatre for understanding what is the culture environment of the moment. Plus I like to write- I am finishing my first book- and more than anything, I love to travel
A must-have garment in your wardrobe? A studded black leather jacket
Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit? Salento. It’s a place where I go to find myself, and my roots.
Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“Every Rose Has It’s Thorn” by Poison)? It reminds me of a past love story of mind with an unhappy ending.
What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future? I’m waiting to hear back on a few calls, so being superstitious as I am, I won’t say. However, more cinema.
What are your passions and how do you live them out? I love to play football. I read a lot of narratives. I love hiking in the mountains. A few days’ excursion in the Alps to escape detoxes me from the chaos of Rome.
A must-have garment in your wardrobe? A plain black tee shirt, it goes with everything.
Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit? One place that both relaxes and stimulates me are public libraries; in the centre of Rome there are some marvellous libraries.
Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“Karma Police” by Radiohead)? It is connected to the sabbatical year I took during high school to go work in London, the melody reminds me of my thoughts and experiences during that time.
Photographer| Roberta Krasnig Stylist| Stefania Sciortino Hair| Rockhair Grooming| Ilaria Di Lauro Photographer Assistant| Sean Ferritto Stylist Assistant| Giulia Pandolfi Location| Mia Visual Studio
His dazzling smile is proof that being on a diet doesn’t equal feeling sadness and deprivation. In fact, his beautiful and delicious dishes would make anyone drool at first sight. He’s Marco Bianchi, born in 1978, chef, scientist, writer for the Umberto Veronesi Foundation, author of numerous health books and a TV personality, who genuinely enjoys sharing his true love of good cooking with his social media followers, many of whom try his recipes and then enthusiastically post their results on social networks. His sincerity and simplicity wins over whomever he meets, including us. We interviewed him to ask for his precious advice on following a balanced lifestyle, yet one without too many sacrifices.
People assume mostly women watch their weight and their diets. Yet you are an example that men as well are becoming more sensitive to these matters. What pushed you to adopt a healthier lifestyle?
Basically, it was my course of study: it led me to become much more careful about what I eat. Being in close contact with the world of scientific research, seeing year after year, slide after slide, the analyses conducted on patients gave me pause. It made me decide to stop how I was eating and to make a conscious choice to live a healthier and more balanced lifestyle. This change first started as an experiment on myself, then it started catching the interest of those around me.
We know you’re a health fanatic. How much does it affect your personal style choices?
I made a choice not to be defined as vegan, because I consume animal proteins, such as fish and cheese. I just don’t eat meat and meat products, such as sausages and salami, but everything else I eat in moderation. My choices are dictated by the careful selection of the farms and how products are sold: from cheese to fresh caught fish, I always try to opt for the best. This also means being able to distinguish which companies produce well and care about the quality of raw materials.
Wellness, health and eco-design are the main ingredients of the Healthy Box. How did your collaboration with SKAKO and Essent’ial begin?
It started a bit by chance. I was already buying Essent’ial products, due to their sustainability. Together we decided to give life to the Healthy Box, and SKAKO took care of the creative part. I became the face of this beautiful health project.
You’re a sportsman, often seen in running shoes and a track suit, engaging in various events devoted to health and prevention. In your everyday life, however, what do you like to wear? Did the fact that you became a celebrity change your lifestyle?
I’m always in motion, especially if I can’t make it to formal workouts like CrossFit, which I really enjoy doing. In that case, I like to get out and about, my gym is the stairs or the city, walking everywehere. I walk a lot, an average of 10-12 km per day, and for me there’s no such thing as elevators, so, whoever comes along with me knows he has to dress comfortably. Sweating once a day, for at least 20 minutes, is a must. Becoming well-known hasn’t changed me, I’m still me. I definitely get stopped more often, I’m asked for advice, but in general I act as I always have, no difference. Luckily my followers love me, so I have great interaction with whomever I meet on the street, at the supermarket, in a store. It’s always a pleasure to be enriched by my community’s kind words.
The “MANINTOWN” man is multifaceted. What is your advice to how he can pursue a healthy lifestyle day by day, without too many sacrifices?
Imagining each meal as a complete dish is a key rule for everyone. That means the dish should be comprised of 50% plants, such as fruits and vegetables, 25% whole grains and 25% protein, to be alternated among low-fat cheese, fish, dried fruits and legumes, lots of legumes. I don’t mentioning meat because I don’t consume any, but obviously meat could be a part of this 25%. Beyond that, I’d advise a fresh juice, fruit and salad at least once a day. Dried fruit makes a great snack good for every day, especially for those who practice sport and exercise; it is a heart saver. Plus the ideal recipe for health also includes exercise and physical activity.
No longer simply for fans of that clean, crisp sound; no longer for the nostalgics who cannot let go of the past, not even for the fashionistas who will buy anything just to keep up with the trends. The end of 2016 marked the first time in history that sales of vinyl records in the UK surpassed those of digital album downloads and CDs. Coincidence? Apparently not. It seems instead that vinyl itself, for several important record labels and for the youngest generation of listeners, has become the pathway toward a return to genuine music, with its liquid smooth sound, unmistakable hum and flavour all its own, and albums worthy of collecting. Yet for some musicians, digital technology is still supreme for achieving the perfect sound. Among whom, for example, is Neil Young, proponent of a higher quality digital sound via Kickstarter (in a campaign raising over $5 million USD) for Pono, a digital music reader with audio resolution 30 times higher than that of an MP3 player.
However, for some years now many artists have begun to bring the big black disc back to the forefront: Daft Punk, Adele, and Ed Sheeran for example, or Jack White who sold over 40,000 copies in a week of his 33 1⁄3 rpm LP. Several big names of the international music scene, more and more frequently, have chosen to publish their new albums both in digital and analog forms, some even opting for only the second: In fact, rumours have leaked that The Smiths are set to release a new 45 record that will contain two never-been-published tracks and a demo of “The Boy With the Thorn in His Side” along with a new version of “The Rubber Ring,” a true treat for fans of the band.
Although there are still sceptics, the recent surge in success of vinyl records is increasingly evident, enough so as to incite new projects, including in Italy, and to have given rise to new commercial initiatives. Among which is Vinylify, a Dutch start-up which thought to take the old school technology, ie the classic vinyl record, and create something romantically democratic: a service in which customers can send a mix of their own favourite digital song files to be turned into a brand new, shiny black personalised vinyl record collectable. After all, if in 2014 Pink Floyd‘s “The Endless River” was the fastest-selling record since 1997 and if today Led Zeppelin still sell records, it goes without saying that vinyl presents an optimal long-term business plan, not just a passing fad or a trip down memory lane.
Speaking of memory lane, not new to the vinyl scene is Vinilmania in Milan who for the last 30 years has hosted a twice-yearly exhibition (now in its 84th edition) that continues to be the gold standard event for passionate collectors of first editions and rare records; as well as production house Phono Press, also Italian, which has been manufacturing records for 30 years, and recently had to move its headquarters in order to handle the increase in demand (from 1.000/2.000 discs a day to a production today of over 6.000), or the virtual community that exists through digital platforms like VinylHub, mapping out record stores around the world, and highlighting concerts and events linked to the world of vinyl: In short, it is a declaration of love akin to that of the tireless defenders of the printed word.
WORLD VYNIL SPOT
SUBWAX BCN, BARCELLONA Not only a record store, but also a record label, distribution channel and music agency. Specializing in electronic music, reggae and dub, this small music paradise in Barceloneta also houses around 10.000 second-hand records.
RM360, SEOUL Opened in 2011, this small shop is a landmark destination due to its varied collection of second-hand records that range from jazz to soul, funk and ’80s hip-hop. There is also a section dedicated to Korean music and a selection of new discs, mostly hip-hop and modern funk.
RM360
GALACTIC SUPERMARKET RECORDS, BERLIN With an inventory of around 35.000 records, this shop in Berlin offers a journey through every genre of music. Fortunately it is organized by section, artist name and sub-genre. Not to be missed: the loft section.
GALACTIC SUPERMARKET RECORDS
CARBONO, LISBONA Inaugurated in 1983, by now it is a staple. With a clear attitude for the second-hand, the store’s shelves are stocked with a little bit of everything, though indie music and rock are heavily represented. Don’t forget to head down to the basement level.
RECKLESS RECORDS, CHICAGO This sound mecca has London roots and a strong presence in the retail music scene for the last two decades. Here you’ll find rare titles, recommendations and instructions on how to acquire the best of the best in music history.
RECKLESS RECORDS
BOUNCE AUDIO, MELBOURNE New to the Australian scene, this store is the destination for shoppers looking for second hand copies of DJ collections, especially funk and soul music.
He unleashed a true frenzy when, after the recent Presidential election in the USA, he tweeted a plea to marry an Italian girl and become, as such, a de facto Italian. Undoubtedly witty and humorous, the American volleyball player Maxwell Holt is also gutsy; fans of the sport remember the most recent Olympics where in the game against Italy he heroically blocked the shots of his direct rival Ivan Zaytsev.
Holt is not only the captain of the USA national team, but in 2016 he was also awarded the title of US Player of the Year, all while playing in Italy for one of the most loved and admired championship squads, Modena Volley. The athlete caught our attention. Checking out his social media accounts, for example Instagram, we see he has other passions besides volleyball, such as music, thus we decided to interview him and make him the feature of a photoshoot in pure MANINTOWN style. Welcome to the world of Maxwell Holt.
TOTAL LOOK|ETRO
JACKET|HAMAKI-HO; SWEATER|ETRO
How did you start playing volleyball and when have you decided that it would become your job? I started playing volleyball when I was very young. I started playing just for fun and up until I was 15 I didn’t really play at a competitive level. I also played other sports like basketball baseball and soccer.
You play in an Italian team. What have you learned to love of our country? The first thing that you realize when coming from the USA to play in Italy is how much volleyball is loved here. We don’t have a volleyball league in the U.S. (just college) so to be able to come here and play at the highest level in the best league in front of the best fans in the world is amazing. Of course there are many other beautiful things about Italy that is nonexistent in the U.S. The country itself is breathtaking and every city is rich in history. I can’t forget the food. Especially here in Modena is world class.
Can you give a suggestion to those who start playing football for the first time? Divertirti! It’s a beautiful sport and truly a team effort every time you play.
The 2016 Olympic Games. Which is the memory that touches you the most and is there a moment, a feeling or a particular anecdote of this edition that you want to share with us?Winning the bronze medal is a memory that will forever stay with me. The whole olympic experience itself is truly incredible. Being on the greatest stage with the greatest athletes in the world and just feeling that energy around the city of Rio was the best experience of my life.
The most important moment in your carreer? Rio!
Talking about style, what can’t lack in your closet? I have a bit of a problem with shoes. For as long as I can remember I have been crazy about shoes. It started with just sneakers, like the latest pair of Air Jordans, and has evolved to many different types of kicks.
What is synonymous with style, according to you? I am a fan of simple style. Probably 80 percent of my wardrobe is either black or dark grey. It is rare to see me in a flashy color.
You have been the protagonist of a precise media event. We’re wondering what does touch you in a woman, which characteristics would have your dream girl? (Laughing) Well I guess the most important quality in my ‘dream girl’ would be that she is a kind person with a good heart. Then she has to love music and would be ideal if she played and instrument. I’m not so picky.
Which passions do you have, other than volleyball? Checking your Instagram, you seem very connected to music… Yes I love music. I have been playing guitar for over 10 years and I would say that is my passion other than volleyball obviously. My favorite thing in the world is going to see my favorite artists or bands live in concerts. After volleyball I would love to do something involving music somehow.
Your role models, your personal eroes? My mother and father. I’m incredibly thankful to have had the two of them work as hard as they have to provide me with this life. I would never be where I am without their love and support.
Do you have a dream, a project you haven’t achieved yet and that you want to realize? In the world of volleyball, I want to win an Italian championship, a champion’s league title, and an Olympic Gold medal. So I guess you could say my journey hasn’t quite finished yet!
It is an ingredient used in many men’s fragrances because it gives any composition a warm and masculine, yet refined note. We’re talking about tobacco, which adds to fragrances that extra touch because it lends itself to various olfactory interpretations. It can be “sweet, ” combined with fruity, floral notes, or those of honey and vanilla, “dirty” thanks to the addition of black pepper or other pungent spices, leather or musk, and finally “smoky” tinted with incense or scorched wood. In any case, its effect is hard to achieve with other raw material, and this makes tobacco much loved amongst fragrance designers, who also use it in the creation of women’s Asian inspired scents- but that’s another story.
MillionPrivé by Paco Rabanne has an effervescent and spicy opening, rich with notes of mandarin and cinnamon. The heart is enriched with Nargile tobacco and myrrh. The base notes are warm and sensual, with a mix of patchouli, and Tonka bean absolute.
MILLION PRIVE|PACO RABANNE
Tobacco by Franck Boclet opens with top notes of ginger and tobacco leaves, softened by the fruity sweetness of plum. The heart reinforces the smoky notes of the tobacco thanks to clove and Tonka bean, united by cedar wood. The base has warm, amber and woody notes, with a touch of vanilla and musk.
TOBACCO|FRANCK BOCLET
TobaccoOud by Tom Ford. The harmony in this fragrance found its inspiration in the Arabian “dokha,” a traditional blend of spices, herbs, flowers and tobacco with an intoxicating and narcotic aroma, added together with the intense and animalistic notes of oud.
TOBACCO OUD|TOM FORD
Tobacco Nuit by Atelier Cologne Collection Orient is a cologne in absolute form, 20% concentrated, which opens with the fresh and spicy notes of clementine, coriander and cumin. A smoky heart of labdanum, incense and tobacco flowers, that closes with enveloping notes of patchouli, wood, cedar and Tonka bean.
TOBACCO NUIT|ATELIER COLOGNE
Tabarome Millesime by Creed draws inspiration from Winston Churchill’s fragrance of choice, also by Creed. Tabarome is a combination of the words “tobacco” and “aroma” and calls to mind the scene of cigars, high back leather chairs and the scent of brandy swirling through an exclusive British gentlemen’s club.
TABAROME MILLESIME|CREED
Les Jeux Sont Faits by Jovoy Paris is inspired by French film noir of the 1960s, that of Jean Gabin and Lino Ventura. The fragrance opens with head notes of angelica and gin: aromatic, fresh and dry. In the heart, chords recalling the smell of a smoky gambling hall: bitter tobacco leaves and cumin. The base is a captivating blend of patchouli and a warm and fruity note of vanilla and labdanum reminiscent of Cuban rum.
Must-haves, or objects of desire, if you prefer, are those accessories, garments and design objects that we see each season on the runways or in shop windows, full of appeal and eye-catching for all respectable fashionistas. I have selected 15, or rather just over 15, must-haves for spring/summer 2017.
I confess, I’ve chosen them based on my own personal taste, selecting what struck me, what I would have wanted for myself, without any real rhyme or reason. Only when I finished I did notice that all my selections amounted to a desire for colour, positivity and entertainment. There is a need to smile and a certain sense of lightness. Perhaps in response to the times we are living in, I chose, unconsciously, to seek out humour and joie de vivre. I hope you will also enjoy my must-haves.
1 GREENERY
Green is Pantone’s 2017 Colour of the Year. Why not choose a few design objects in this shade? Starting with the “Birth On The Dancefloor” rug, knotted by hand in Nepal from Himalayan wool and silk by Marta Bagante and produced by the company cc-tapis. The enveloping armchair “Amburgo,” produced by Baxter and the stylish “Beetle Chair,” by the company GUBI designed by Gam Fratesi are both sold by Spotti in Milan. And if instead, you just can’t stay in the house, there’s the CS Bamboo bicycle, which you’ll find at Tokyobike, also in Milan.
2 T-SHIRT At times the fashion world seems to take itself a little too seriously, while I tend to appreciate humour and irony, like that demonstrated by Andrea Pompilio who, in his Spring/Summer 2017 collection presents a sweatshirt with a very pointed question: “Who the f… is Andrea Pompilio?” I want it now… and you?
ANDREA POMPILIO
3 SOFT DAY PACK In the spirit of travel, even when it is more urban than outdoor, the backpack has returned with full force. I like the Marni Soft Day Pack, which utilises a snap buckle top closure which allows you to carry it also as a handbag. I chose it in the Shutter print, with decisive graphic motifs that alternate red, grey and black, almost like a new modern camouflage.
MARNI
4 SANDALS They will be on everyone’s feet when the warm months arrive. A true must-have: Prada sandals with rubber soles, contrast bi-colour ribbon and rubber and fabric velcro.
PRADA
5 SLIP-ON Both are stars- the brand’s logo and its sinuous, sensual graphics all the way down to the sole, give me Bally SS17 slip-ons.
BALLY
6 JACKET I like to support young designers, and among those is the noteworthy Matteo Lamandini. From his Spring/Summer 2017 collection I chose this striped dress, stripes being a sure-fire trend of the season, here which are mixed with a dash of eccentricity and the designer’s sporty/street style.
MATTEO LAMANDINI
7 BIKER A studded leather jacket in spring? Of course! It’s perfect for the cooler evenings, like this one in suede by Antony Morato. And then, let’s face it, how much does it make us feel cool? A bit like Marlon in “The Wild One”, or like Nicholas Cage in “Wild at Heart”.
ANTONY MORATO
8 THREE-PIECE SUIT If I have to be in a three-piece suit, it might as well be light-hearted. Leo Colaciccio with his line LC23 often brings us inspiration from the world of comics, this time it’s Japan’s turn, with manga references and a printed robot the epitome of those we grew up with on TV.
LC23
9 DUFFEL BAG Gucci‘s “Neo-Vintage” duffle bag collection is absolutely sensational, with hand-embellished fabric in coral snake and flower motifs, green-re-d-green web details with black leather handles and piping. For those who, like me, refuse to carry a classic office brief case.
GUCCI
10 HOMME PLISSE Culture and fashion: a combination that I always find winning, which some designers express impressively well. An example is the HOMME PLISSÉ collection by Issey Miyake for S/S 2017, the Spring Series which draws inspiration from artistic currents Shunga and Ukiyo-e, which became widespread in Japanese society during the Edo period. The result is clothing for the contemporary man, comfortable and suitable for everyday, that reworks tailoring and traditional Japanese concepts.
ISSEY MIYAKE
11 KNITWEAR Winner of the menswear edition of Who’s on Next 2015, Vittorio Branchizio is being said to be the new Italian talent to keep under the radar. His knitwear, high quality crafted, always leaves you astonished for the multi references approach to his design. Easy to fall in love with the new spring proposals, where the playful graphics mix and matches revisit the classic pinstripe suit also inspired by the artist Frank Stella.
VITTORIO BRANCHIZIO
12 TRENCH I haven’t forgotten the (gentle)men dear to MANINTOWN. This spring he will be inseparable from this outerwear piece: the raincoat. And not to mention colour, this Canali double-breasted trench in 150s wool, worn over a wool-silk delavè suit, in a nice bright orange.
CANALI
13 POCKET WATCH It’s not necessarily colourful, but this watch by Bulova definitely sparkles. A super elegant pocket watch for the modern dandy. Steel case and chain, with a Daipason logo, round face in silver with date stamp, analog 3 sphere quartz movement and waterproof up to thirty metres.
BULOVA
14 DECOMPOSE LIGHT The family of aluminium lamps titled “Decomposé Light” by Di Artemide, designed by Atelier Oï, remind me of streamers. They are capable of animating the space with colour and their playful geometric forms, which interact with the light creating subtle shadows.
ARTEMIDE
15 DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET The double-breasted jacket has made a great comeback to the men’s wardrobe in recent seasons. We like a classic black version, but downplayed with a touch of romantic colour. This one by Christian Pellizzari will be perfect for any cool party on a late Spring evening.
Our suggestions to step into the new season with great style
#PARKATREKK –
SILVER PARKA, PRINTED HOODIE, LEGGINGS, SOCKS AND SNEAKERS: PRADA;
TANK TOP: RON DORFF;
WINDBREAKER, TIED AT THE WAIST|VERSACE;
JEWELLERY: MODEL’S OWN
Credits Osvaldo Di Pietrantonio
#ROCKABILLY – CARDIGAN: MIHARAYASUHIRO;
OVERSHIRT AND TROUSERS: 3.1 PHILIP LIM;
POLO: MONCLER;
SHOES: DIOR HOMME;
NECKERCHIEF: STYLIST’S OWN
#SPORTCHIC –
COAT: AMI;
ZIP UP TOP: ADIDAS X ALEXANDER WANG;
JOGGERS: BALLY
You may have noticed that the spirit of Berluti and the cult of the “patina” in particular is focused on what time can bring to life?
No sooner was Haider Ackermann appointed as Creative Director at Berluti than he was struck by the idea of fashion which could develop over time.
As he was working on this collection, he was permanently conscious of the way in which a well-made pair of trousers or a coat become more attractive as they develop a patina which makes them more desirable and precious to us. Haider’s mood board included words such as “Trash”, “Dark” and “Wood” and focused on the concept of a man waking at dawn after a wealth of nocturnal experiences. Certain paintings by Francis Bacon provided the inspiration for the unusual colour combinations which Haider had in mind. Blues and powder pink hues clashing with burgundy for example. Taking these basic concepts as his starting point, Haider Ackermann designed this collection as a list of key pieces: You will find a black leather aviator jacket with just a hint of red crocodile on the collar lapels, and a red lining. There is also a bomber jacket, made entirely out of fluffy nylon on the inside with a grey cashmere outer.There is a soft, smooth velvet tuxedo in royal blue which is suitable for everyday wear. A cashmere sweater with a large roll neck, made out of a single piece with just two seams, is like a second skin. There are lace-up boots in an emerald green which is almost black, but still green enough to make a real statement. There are exquisite yet casual bags. But first and foremost, we are inviting men and women alike to play a part in this show by imaging what exquisite patina these clothes would soon develop if you owned them.
Listen to the savage call. This collection combines the comfort of the urban outfit with the outdoor spirit of trekking and the patterns that arise from the natural energy. Nowadays, men yearn for a new relationship with elegance, that integrates the sensitivity for the natural fabrics. By continuing to pursue the aesthetics of the functionality, ISSEY MIYAKE MEN proposes a workwear which includes the essence of the forest as a view through a spectrum of blending colors.
KHAMAMA is a new sustainable luxury brand that is characterized by a strong ethical value: it produces accessories recycling… “butterfly wings”. The Khamama projects, created in Paris and handmade in Cheshire, England, are characterized by refined machining and very precious processes, that provide to the wings an extraordinary color, “High Art de Papillon” and create customed and unique smartphone-case. Khamama, which will soon also be launching a collection of clutch, took its name from the Cherokee language (khamama means precisely: butterfly), is a brand founded in 2015 by Amos and Simon Hornstein: the ethical aspect – aid in support reforestation and many other environmental projects globally – makes the Khamama phylosophy a gem of fashion and clever creativity.
Oscar Wilde Venue, travelling from London to Paris: a sort of path in the path, that revived the Alexander McQueen A/W 2017 collection, on the steps of one of the most beloved writers of literature, the firts and real dandy, a style icon: with his look on more rigorous, formal first, and then more amused, curious, as he approaches to the world of Paris.
Faithful to the values of the house, the AMQ collection is based on fine tailoring interventions: the shoulders are high, the pants are available in two distinct versions – tight and straight to the leg the first, and the second flared, sometimes finished in velvet or with a band of satin on the flanks. The jackets are characterized by the classic Paisley pattern, Prince of Wales and Tattersall, with shirts from silk neck ivory, white cotton poplin, striped or with the corresponding print design.
An iconic ceremonial cape, finally, that refers to the world of peacocks, great, embroidered with gold thread, a hymn to the last eternal memories of Wilde.
www.alexandermcqueen.com
1 SHOES WITH A TWIST Baldinini, footwear producer known for its style and quality since 1910, presents an Autumn/Winter 2017-18 collection inspired by the contemporary man, with multi-faceted elegance and a propensity for classic lines, but with a twist. From tie Oxford shoes to moccasins to sneakers, Baldinini shoes are characterised by a chromatic palette that ranges from dark grey to violet to green and often utilising innovative textures treated by hand. The key theme in the collection is a forest inspired camouflage print, details that give life to elegance without rules.
2 TECHNOLOGY AND ECO-FABRIC American Vintage, a casual French men’s apparel brand, will once again present a new collection at this season’s PITTI UOMO 91. There are three predominant fabrics in the A/W 17-18 collection, each with unique characteristics: Modal, a cellulose extract; Supima, baptised as “the cashmere of cotton”; and Tencel, a fibre made from eucalyptus; three elements that demonstrate an approach to simple and authentic beauty thanks to the use of natural fibres.
3 QUILTED, OF COURSE In their jackets this season, Husky re-elaborates quilted themes, offering them in a modern take in a broad range of styles and “must-have” garments characteristic of the brand. Converging the characteristics of the classic raincoat and windbreaker, the brand gives life to a new model that is incomparable in functionality and lightness.
4 ALWAYS FIT Lumberjack‘s official debut at Pitti Immagine Uomo, the Florentine event is the ideal stage to present new winter collections dedicated to the men’s fashion universe. For Lumberjack the undisputed star of the collection will be the Houston style, sneakers made for free time, perfectly meshing together the urban and outdoor lifestyle. Houstons are available in suede, nubuck or in a waterproof version in a palette of dark colours including an ultra elegant navy blue.
5 SECRET INSIDE This season Cividini surprises us in the truest sense of the word, in fact, the Autumn/Winter 2017-18 collection is just waiting to be discovered. “Secret inside” is the concept around which each of the garments was designed, engineering and manufactured. Sweaters that have one appearance from the outside, hide a second soul if you look from the inside. Fine fabrics and intense colours make this layering “game” possible, arising from the coexistence of two personalities in one single garment.
6 CREATIVITY MADE IN KOREA Protagonist at Pitti Uomo 91, are Korean brands with a special project called CONCEPT KOREA, that will take centre stage on 11 January, 2017 in the Dogana space in the Tuscan capital. With the intention of bringing Made In Korea fashion to light, two Korean brands will walk the Florentine runways thanks to government agency KOCCA which supports Korean creativity. The two brands are MUUET(TE) by BYUNGMUN SEO and ORDINARY PEOPLE. The first, founded in 2012 by the design duo Byungmun Seo and Jina Um, has a futuristic but relaxed style that undoubtedly celebrates the art of layering. While the second, designed by Jang Hyeong Cheol, devotes its creativity to a curated aesthetic, tailor-made with exquisite attention to detail.
7 EVERYDAY ELEGANCE Refined and sought after garments by Siviglia for Autumn/Winter 2017-18; the attention to detail and high quality fabrics bring bespoke tailoring to every day life, in a balance between good looks and comfort. The now-famous colourful dyed pants, the jacquards created from nearly unperceivable geometric designs that move with the fabric, the miniature playful prints that bring style back to neckwear and the wools with a soft, warm hand are the foundation of Siviglia’s three capsules: Heritage, Clou and White.
If there’s one accessory that defines masculine elegance, it is surely the necktie. Few, or rather very few, men escape the symbolic grip of the tie, possible to fasten in no less than 84 different ways because, François de La Rochefoucauld wittily expressed “the knot is to the tie as the brain is to the man.” Binding tightly, that is, both literally and figuratively, is the man and this accessory. Emphasizing the concept of masculine elegance is Loïc et giL. New, and yet already iconic. Sleek, but unobtrusive, this very new brand born in 2015 boasts Italian manufacturing, Swiss origin, and a creative spirit. Go behind the sharp elegance of this accessory to reveal the ideational passion of Paolo Luban, a former manager from Geneva with an impressive business background, who is also a profound connoisseur of art. Luban injects this passion into every style of tie he creates, hiding in the folds of the perfect knot are references to François Morellet, Enrico Castellani quotes and implications of Klaus Staudt. MANINTOWN met up with Paolo Luban to find out more.
How would you define a tie? It is the most immediately visible accessory on a man who is dressed formally. From this perspective, it is very important. It’s also the item that allows the man to personalise and enliven his outfit the most. From a universe of potentially vast styles and colours, with aesthetic “wiggle room” greater than that offered by other accessories.
Do you have a favourite fabric? Printed silk. For Loïc et giL, which focuses on originality of design and colours, it is a must.
Who is your muse for elegant menswear? I don’t have any in particular. A few bloggers I follow have that natural class and a great capacity to combine the various elements of their look in an original way, for example like Guillaume Bo and Defustel. Among well-known fashion icons I have always admired Lapo Elkann.
You are one of those rare entrepreneurs who marries art and fashion- will you continue down that road? [smiling] I definitely think so, those are my passions
Which men do you hope to dress with your ties? All those who care about how they look. And all those who think their personal style can be amplified. Or at least a little bit…
What is the target market for your creations? Mostly European countries, after all, my taste and aesthetic was born in this cultural and geographic context.
What are your projects for the future of the brand? What direction will it take? In the near future, the goal is to make the brand and its styles as well-known as possible. The other challenge in the coming months will be to create new styles that continue to reinforce the strong identity of Loïc et giL.
Here there are no great numbers, only great passions. There are no million-Euro sales receipts, just small artisanal workshops where the hand and the heart are intertwined like thread. Like that of the legendary Ariadna given to Theseus to help him out of the labyrinth; in this case, of bad taste, and directly into the capable hands of the modern tailor. Here, the word “baste” has sartorial dignity. And the scissors are the only mechanical object. The rest is made up of dedication to the work and a passion for beauty and the finely crafted. Italian tailors are the new touchstones of masculine elegance, the point of comparison when buying a suit or choosing a jacket or overcoat. The guardians of an ancient tradition, handed down from father to son, these workshops today are recognized as playing a role of primary importance to the promotion of Made in Italy quality and expertise. To each his own… tailoring.
Dotted throughout the beautiful territory from north to south, are bespoke tailors each with his own story and style essense, as demonstrated by Domenico Pirozzi, a veritable repository of Ars sutoria intelligence acquired from his father Nunzio, who is now one of the most esteemed tailors from Neapolitan tradition. “Each of the garments we create is rendered unique by the completely handmade construction from freehand cutting without paper patterns, to the choice of quality fabrics,” says Pirozzi, a pillar in his family’s art (the tailoring shop was founded in Naples in the early ’60s). Pirozzi, also with a decade of experience at Kiton, continues, revealing the secrets of his craft: “each of our suits exudes softness and wear-ability, granted from the perfect cut and the fine materials that we use.” Of course it does not include the look and taste of the clothing: “a feature that distinguishes us is surely the slightly wider collar, with proper tailoring for current style codes, always soft, while the shoulder is smooth with a slight curve. It is an international, self-assured look.” The Neapolitan school of tailoring still has a lot to teach us in matters of style, thus, the Sartoria Pirozzi with its atelier on Via Gramsci, also organizes trunk shows abroad, exporting its style sense around the world as far as Japan.
A few kilometres further south in this hypothetical sartorial migration, we arrive in Salento, or more precisely in Martano in the province of Lecce, where we find Sartoria Colazzo dal 1966. Already the name proudly acclaims its many years making passionate fans of made-to-measure ever more elegant. Today, Alessandro Colazzo, together with his brother John, continues the family tradition alongside their father Arcangelo, founder of bespoke laboratory. Alessandro himself also lives and breathes the image of fine tailoring, becoming its first online advocate, “the web is useful- that is undeniable- it is the first window into a tailor’s work if he wants to lead the way in our times because with just one click you can bring reach people across a great distance. But to really understand what this art is about, you have to enter into the tailor’s shop, not just glance in through the window”. And it is also he who reveals the secret of today’s tailoring, “the Colazzo Tailoring tradition has its roots in the mid-60s. Every past era has brought forward with it unique and inimitable characteristics. Today our tailoring sees garments made entirely by hand, like the weaves of the fabrics made from natural camel hair and horsehair, made to measure for every customer. The sotto collo is “punticiato”- worked- by hand, which might seem trivial, but it gives the jacket a unique softness and wear-ability. Same goes for lapels, and not to mention the one-of-a-kind process for creating the “mappina” sleeve, which gets its name from the tea towels our grandparents used to use, that gives the jacket such lightness and ease of movement that the man forgets he is wearing it.”
Sartoria Colazzo dal 1966, Lecce
Continuing up the Apennine mountain chain (well, sort of), you arrive in Florence, at Liverano & Liverano, who since the ’40s has been one of the most prestigious manufacturers to make its home on banks of the Arno River. Recently, the atelier has formed an unusual creative partnership with denim giant Roy Rogers, overseen by the Sevenbell Group, to produce the first sartorial jeans made in Florence, thus finding a creative meeting place between two seemingly irreconcilable worlds, whose future will breathe new life into bespoke denim.
Liverano & Liverano+ Roy Rogers, Firenze
Following the hypothetical thread that sews together Italy’s made-to-measure experts, we arrive in Milan, more precisely in Varese, where Sartoria Vergallo is based and run today by Gianni Cleopazzo, spokesman for the next generation of hand tailoring. He explains how the Cleopazzo style has clear ideas “the goal is to meet the demands and the tastes of our customers, who are all different. As a result, we do not like to impose on them our own style. For us, the customer is the one who likes to dress in an exclusive and personal way- of course we are talking about a person who appreciates the hand-made, and above all understands the time and cost required for the to produce a hand-made suit.”
Sartoria Vergallo, Varese
Crossing over the Alps, you can still breathe the air of Made in Italy tailoring. Even in Antwerp. Thanks to Massimo Pirrone, a manager with sartorial background, who created his brand PM Eleganza Milanese, in Belgium in 2013. Despite being located outside the Italian border, the tailoring atelier wears the red, white and green flag because Pirrone relies on Italian manufacturing to create his garments. His sartorial fingerprint is identifiable as “reshaping the fit of menswear garments, to be appropriate for the younger crowd.” Star founder of his brand, Pirrone is still very active on social networks- its Instagram account has over 55k followers- because “we also put a little lifestyle [on Instagram], not just the suit but also everything else. In fact, followers often ask my advice on clothing, especially younger ones.” In matters of style Pirrone has a clear inspiration: “as a way of thinking and creating, I am inspired by Tom Ford, but Agnelli’s elegance will always be number one for me.”
PM Eleganza Milanese, Antwerp
PM Eleganza Milanese, Antwerp
The sum of all these examples demonstrates a vital, living, breathing sector, increasingly out to turn men’s made-to-measure fashion into the quintessential frontier of masculine elegance today.
His deep blue eyes will strike you immediately, rich in colour, capable of intense stares, seductive looks, humour, fun, intelligence. His face is painted with an array of expressive masks, as only a great actor is capable of doing. And then, Ewan McGregor captures you with his contagious energy, that enthusiasm rarely found in stars like him who may be more disenchanted by the experience and their years spent on set. Now, McGregor, at age 45, has decided to surprise everyone and get back into the game, also becoming a director. Currently in theatres in Italy, Ewan directs and stars alongside Jennifer Connelly and Dakota Fanning in “American Pastoral,” a story about a seemingly perfect bourgeois American family, turned upside down when their daughter grows up into a terrorist and political fanatic during the unrest of the 1960s. You’ll also soon see him in the long-awaited “Trainspotting 2,” the sequel to the first film, once again directed by Danny Doyle. This time in addition to the drug world, it will delve into the world of pornography. And, meanwhile, Ewan is already thinking about his next film as a director…
“American Pastoral” is the film adaptation of the eponymous book by Philip Roth, had you known of it prior to filming? Yes, I had read the book and I could not get it out of my head. It was a story that I felt particularly close to, because I am the father of four daughters and as such I know very well this kind of father-daughter relationship. [McGregor has been married for many years to Greek/French production designer Eve Mavrakis and the two are parents to Clara Mathilda and Esther Rose, born in 1996 and in 2001, and two Mongolian adopted daughters Jamiyan and Annouk, born in 2001 and 2011]
It was something that hit home, then? Yes, and I identified with the story even more, because at the time I was filming my daughter Clara was preparing to leave home and go to New York to attend the university. In a sense, I felt her absence, which made me feel even closer to my character. Then he has to deal with a daughter who has become a murderess. His sweet, naive little girl is transformed into something totally foreign to him, then his wife betrays him- everything goes to ruin at once. But he continues to stay and to love his daughter, looking for her after she has disappeared, he never gives up. Again, I recognize myself in him, because I am also a hard-head, I’m stubborn! [he laughs]. Not only at work, but also with the people I love. I don’t let myself get discouraged in the face of any difficulty.
Yet you have a marriage that has lasted a long time in Hollywood terms where so many couples separate. Eva and I have known each other for a lifetime. Above all we are friends and we have always had this understanding. She must be some kind of saint. She supports me and accepts that I may have to be away on set for months anywhere in the world, or I might run on with my friends on a motorcycle trip. Let’s face it: not all women would put up with that.
What made you decide to suddenly go into directing? Actually it was something I’ve been thinking about for some time. And I think I came to the decision to take this step now because I see it as the next evolutionary move in my career as an actor. It’s as if I can have my voice heard, and at the same time, become part of the artistic production process. At the beginning I actually thought about directing a film based on an Italian book Seta (by Alessandro Barico). I was ready to meet the author, then I happened to hear an interview in which he said he aimed to entrust the film adaptation of his book to one of the great well-known directors. Honestly, it scared me. I convinced myself that I would never have been considered. Sorry to flood you with words, I know I can be very intense [he laughs and pauses].
Imagine… Go on… Then I was presented with “American Pastoral,” which I’d had in mind to do for years, ever since I read the book for the first time, and then I re-read it. It was my agent who suggested that I direct, thinking I was something I’d be good at. A lot of big actors like Jennifer Connelly and Dakota Fanning were already in the cast. The first thing I did was ask them if they felt comfortable working with a first-time director like me, and luckily, they said yes immediately.
As an actor, do you have a particular approach when relating to other actors? I try to avoid that attitude I hate from the world of directors, that of authoritarian. I let actors take liberties, I listen to their opinions, let them improvise. I trust them and they trust me. I want everyone to feel confortable, so we can create a real working team.
What was the hardest part about directing? The huge responsibility that on everyone’s behalf. In simple terms, I didn’t want to make a fool of myself! [laughs] At times, actors who try to direct for the first time are swept up by their naïveté and end up being obvious or banal.
Do you think you will repeat this experience then? Definitely. And, by the way, I am looking for financing. If anyone out there reading is interested in investing in a great story…
“Trainspotting 2” will be in theatres soon, can you give us a preview? For a long time I’ve wanted to continue the adventure of the protagonist from the first film. And this time he is also obsessed with sex and porn, besides just drugs. You will see a bit of everything then. Plus, it’s always a pleasure to work with the director, my friend Danny Doyle, who has inspired me a lot since he was the first to direct me when I was younger and inexperienced. I consider him a great friend.
Did you always want to be famous? I just wanted to do what seemed the most fun in the world! [Laughs]
You will also be in the musical “The Beauty and The Beast” That was an amazing experience, like “Moulin Rouge.” Singing and dancing makes me feel alive every day, in an emotion comparable to that of being on stage in the theatre, even though you are on a set. Because it feels like live acting.
Speaking of passions, you mentioned before your passion for the motorcycle… When I’m in Los Angeles, where I’ve lived with the family for a while now, I always try to jump on one and ride up the Pacific Coast Highway, along the coast from Malibu to Santa Monica and then go to the studios. It doesn’t make my producers or directors very happy, since they’re afraid I am going to hurt myself, but I wont give that sense of freedom and feel of the wind in my hair. I collect old motorcycles and vintage cars, and I even know fix them myself if they break. A hobby that has proven itself to be useful, especially when I’m in some remote corner of the planet…
You’ve written books such as “Long Way Round,” about your travels on a motorcycle, crossing parts of the world along with one of your best friends, in addition to making documentaries. Any other adventures planned? I have in mind a very exotic journey I’d like to take, in a very remote place, as soon as I can find time between one film and the next, because I’ve been working a lot recently. Or maybe I’ll just leave suddenly, because sometimes I really need to drop everything and just go.
Jacques Webster, aka Travis Scott, is not a man of many words, though when he speaks he get straight to the point, as do his songs. His new album Birds in the Trap Sing Brian McKnight is all about strong melodies and important vocal contributions from the Weeknd, Young Thug, Cassie, Kid Cudi, a great mentor for Travis together with Kanye West, Swizz Beatz, Bryson Tiller, and others the likes of Kendrick Lamar and Andre 3000. He produced an album with a very specific mission: to satisfy fans with his “trap music,” a kind of accelerated rap of which he himself has been one of the early champions, along with Atlanta rap groups like Migos, Young Thug and Gucci Mane. The cover art (shot by Nick Knight) shows Scott as something between a bird and a fallen angel, wrapped in white smoke as though he is just about to do something majestic. He’s no longer an up-and-coming protégé or an industry-packaged product, he is finally ready to fly free and becoming the next big storyteller in rap music. He also often plays with fashion, (he is friends with Riccardo Tisci) and starred in a recent movie for Yves Saint Laurent for the spring/summer 2017 collection wearing a suit that lights on fire, an element that references Travis’ nickname “La Flame.” We sat down with him to unveil his passions, which apart from fashion include design, architecture and medicine.
What is your relationship with fashion? I believe it is an interesting one, it’s something that is part of me. It’s in me.
How would you define your style? Does music rhyme with style? My style has no boundaries, it always represents what I am feeling, there is no one particular style. I personally think it does, 100%. Music is an extension of you and it has to match your style.
Lots of artists collaborate with fashion designers. Will you ever create your own fashion label? That is an interesting idea but I am focusing on music. I am doing partnerships with other designers, I have a collab with Helmut Lang hitting stores at the end of January. I also work closely designing and creative directing my Travis Scott merchandise collections.
Can you tell us what your latest album is about? Birds is the way I was feeling that time of the year, I was feeling boxed in on shit, I was making an album against the grain. I made the album to let the people know where I was at the time. Right now, I feel like its off my chest, I look forward to 2017. I feel like I am in a good place right now.
What is your favourite song of all times and why? I’m really sorry MANINTOWN crew but that is impossible to answer, I really got so many favourite songs!
Performing on stage requires a lot of energy, what is your secret to be powerful on stage? As simple as can be, I just have one secret: a whole lot of Sprite. It tastes so good and gets me going.
How do you interact with your audience? My attitude is very welcoming. I am very personal and protective with my fans, I connect with them, all I care about is giving them a good time, especially when performing live, I like to be as close to them as I can.
What are your music influences? A lot of psychedelic music, hard rap, ill beats.
Who do you consider your mentor? I would say all my closest friends mentor me, but I have a couple inspirational musicians such as Kid Cudi and Kanye.
What does Kanye West represent to you? Kanye is one of my best friends, he’s kind of stepped in as an important figure in my life, he has shown me a lot of this world, and I continue to learn a lot from him, every time we meet.
Who are your favourite emerging hip hop artists? Made in Tokyo, 21 Savage- it was great I had him on my album.
Do you wish to be a mentor yourself for some of them? I am always down to help other artists out.
When did you decide to be musician? When I was a kid, I always wanted to do music, I kind of got that from my dad.
What did you dream about being when you were younger? I wanted to be a kidney doctor. A nephrologist- a medical doctor who specializes in kidney care and treating diseases of the kidneys.
What’s your ultimate goal? I want to keep doing big tours, to get into design and architecture. Expand more, with no limits.
Our international collaborations expand thanks to the second project, a capsule collection created with Danish brand The AM Crew who takes inspiration from the Copenhagen nightlife. Here, a small group of insiders and influencers in the world of fashion, art and entertainment have gathered together to form a secret society whose motto is “Sleep all day. Party all night. Never grown old. Never die. It’s fun to be a vampire” (The Lost Boys, 1987). The group of friends is called The AM Crew. Their uniform is the iconic rock’n’roll leather biker jacket, personalized with the logo of the “angel of death” illustrated by artist Daniel van der Noon. It symbolises the night, the dark, and rebellion.
United by a passion for music, MANINTOWN collaborated with the AM Crew to create a limited edition jacket. A synthesis between the minimalist Scandinavian aesthetic adorned with a few theatrical elements like the recognisable logo on the back and a red inner lining. A brand born with the idea of creating season-less garments in limited edition, with select distribution, break- ing with the traditional model of classic fashion brands. Just like MANINTOWN, the project began thanks to a group of passionate friends: photographer and street style influencer Adam Katz Sinding (Partner, Global Ambassador), Scandinavian entrepreneur and TV producer Casper Christensen (Partner, Global Ambassador & Investor), Frederik Frank (Partner, Logistics), Vlatko Dukic (Founder, Partner, Design & Production) who does product development, and Signe Christoffersen, responsible for the brand’s PR.
What is the new frontier of elegant menswear?
At Pitti Uomo 91, the leading menswear event held in Florence twice a year, attendees can observe and gather next season’s trends in order to understand how men’s style is evolving. Among the array of offerings, one trend direction seems to be very clear: the new formal look for him is less rigid, and mixed with sporty influences for greater functionality to accompany the man throughout his daily life activities. Thus interpreting men’s dressing in an active tone this season, Patrizia Pepe, founded in 1993 by Patrizia Bambi and her husband Claudio Orrea, presents a collection built around timeless wardrobe pieces rendered modern by details influenced by street and sportswear style. Leitmotif of the Autumn/Winter 2017-18 collection is elegance with a touch of rock and grittiness, hiding refined details like reflective zippers on a classic suit, rubber coated jeans and touches of fluorescent colour on footwear, be it sporty or classic. An active silhouette to affront the metropolitan jungle in fabric duffle coats personalized with nylon mesh, and slim fit suits with striking interiors thanks to the range of hues and the technical fabrics implemented. A wardrobe made for comfort and style that focuses on details and unexpected combinations of soft, classic fabrics with more sporty technical materials. As such, the elegant suit is broken up by a soft knit pull-over or paired with a t-shirt bearing a relief effect, while tailored trousers are matched with a sport-cut nylon jacket. The new print advertising campaign plays on this collection concept, shot by photographer Mauro Puccini, who captured acrobatic movements of Marco Bocci and his tribe of metropolitan parkour athletes practicing an art that blends athletic discipline with an urban lifestyle and environment. The result is a dynamic and lively tale where the new codes of elegance blend perfectly with the passion of challenging one’s own physical limits. A true and authentic active tailoring.
Golden Goose Deluxe Brand has “landed” at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the iconic Superstar sneaker. The brand Made in Venice, Special Guest of the 91th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, has created a production full of energy and emotion, transforming Stazione Leopolda in a high rate of energy stage for the launch of the exclusive capsule collection 10th Anniversary Edition that celebrates the sneaker Superstar showing a deluxe version available in only 1.000 copies which are dedicated to all the historical customers who have believed and supported the project from the beginning. The capsule collection also includes other items and the biker jacket, sweatshirt, t-shirt, bathrobe and Landed Edition, divided into 7 main models of GGDB sneakers.
The world of MANINTOWN ebbs and flows with new shades, thanks to the ever more important creative collaborations that bring true shoppable stories directly to our readers.Linking together web, retail and new media.
Stepping inside the pop world of Saraghina Eyewear gave birth to a collaboration of 2 sunglass styles with a super-light nylon black frame and two-tone lenses offered in yellow/purple and grey/orange. The two styles, made for the modern globetrotter exclusively for MANINTOWN, will debut in preview at Pitti Uomo 91 in Florence, and then distributed via select multi-brand and online stores. Saraghina Eyewear was born from the “aha moment” of siblings Angelo and Silvia Stefano, who thanks to their experience and a strong passion for the industry, created a line of eyewear with an unmistakable design characterized by original lines and bold colour juxtapositions of the lens and frame. Not only are the glasses made in Italy guaranteeing quality at a fair price, but they represent a true way of life that puts colour and irony in top priority. Saraghina offers over 60 frame styles and 50 types of lenses, who combinations form a variegated kaleidoscope of emotions. A balanced mix of tradition and innovation, which is also evident from their packaging: a metal box like a can of sardines, ideal for preserving the “freshness” of the product.
Thanks to Saraghina’s creative collaboration, we have created two new sporty models brightened by a chromatic twist of bicolour lenses. The ideal travel companions for MANINTOWN readers.
DISCOVER THE SPECIAL EDITION AT PITTI UOMO 91 FROM 10 TO 13 JANUARY/ SECTION MY FACTORY/ STAND 15
MANINTOWN presents L.L. BEAN Heritage Experience, an event to know the history of an American historical outdoor brand, which debuts for the first time in Italy. A special event to taste Tuscan specialties and immerse in the L.L.Bean heritage and lifestyle.
In 1912 Leon Leonwood Bean laid in Maine the basis for the creation of L.L.Bean, which has become in a century an empire of the outdoor. Handmade backpacks, bags, clothes and accessories; the offer renews itself and grows from season to season, but the cornerstone remains the iconic Bean Boot, the life partner in the open air in nature, as well as in the city. A brand that tastes like authenticity and owns the color of Maine’s nature, where it was created and where it is entirely produced by hand by local artisans. A brand impressed in the Americans’ past, so much that it has become a neologism, thanks to the Bean Boots, the boots with the camel leather leg and dark brown rubber upper, created for fishing and become synonymous with life close to nature and with adventures in urban backgrounds. Backpacks, bags, accessories, clothes, equipment to live safely in the open air, in the countryside, as well as in the city, in the mountain, as well as on board a kayak. L.L.Bean refers to a universe of products designed to last, 100% guaranteed.
Influencers and blogger will participate to the event, in order to live the L.L.Bean experience, by conveying the extraordinary history of the brand, through the hashtag #llbeanheritage.
The Italian designer Giuseppe Zanotti, whose brand is synonymous with luxury and elegance at international level, will sign along with Zayn Malik, the British singer formerly One Direction, a limited shoe edition release “Giuseppe for Zayn” consists of four models, two sneakers and two boots, whose nuances vary from bottle green to black and perfectly interpret the style and modernity combination embodied by the creative duo.
The capsule will be released later in January 2017 and will be on sale in selected Zanotti store, the brand site (www.giuseppezanottidesign.com) and in some of the most prestigious international dept. stores including Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom.
