Look back to be ahead

Revisiting and restyling. It’s not the rst time future fashion styles are created by re- elaborating and looking into the past. Now more than ever, the majority of brands are following this trend, especially in streetwear. However, this time the story is a bit di erent: It’s not about nostalgia or the illusion of returning to a happy moment in the past-if anything, it’s the desire to embrace the multiplicity of a unique present without renouncing anything. In fact, this 2017 season, many sporty brands are tapping into their archives resulting in o ering the market reworked versions of timeless styles. Who does not remember the famous Pony or the much-loved Air Max? We are talking about those classic pieces that made history for such brands as Pony, Wrangler, Nike, New Balance and many others who, in many facets, have looked back in time to turning their past icons the new key pieces of the season, not out of nostalgia but as part of the inevitable conclusion that our past de nes who we are in the present and also suggests that high quality withstands the test of time and crisis. Economic and otherwise.

Novelty and a look back into the past for Lacoste, which has chosen tennis star Novak Djokovic as its new “crocodile” for the next ve years. Tennis returns as the central theme of the line in honour of founder René Lacoste, tennis player who has revolutionized sportswear in the 1930s by creating the iconic Polo L.12.12, in petite cotton piqué. The brand dedicates a collection to Novak who will don the brand during tournaments; solidifying this link to the former era is the visual campaign images shot by Jacob Sutton, where past and present sit side by side, demonstrating the timeless elegance of the brand.

Protagonists in the ring and on the tennis court, spotted on the feet of the most famous athletes of the 1980s and on the streets all over the world, the Pony, and especially the City Wings High, return to enhance today’s casual style, giving a vintage but modern look.

Eden Park, a Parisian brand founded in 1987 by the former rugby champion Franck Mesnel and Eric Blanc, known for having a pink butter y logo, revives for its thirtieth anniversary, the iconic rugby shirt, the garment that started it all back at Eden Park stadium in Auckland, New Zealand.

New Balance has a vintage spirit. As demonstrated this year by the re-launch of the CRT300 back on the market, which had rst appeared on tennis courts in the 1980s. Today, the remake is available in suede and mesh, in nuances of retro taste.

One example is Wrangler, famous denim brand that on the occasion of its seventy-year anniversary decided to celebrate their success by reprising its colourful collaboration with artist Peter Max, a modern and contemporary re-launch of his multi-colour pockets. The same ones that hoards of youngsters donned in the early ‘70s.

For the Spring/Summer 2017 collection, Tommy Hilger’s denim line Tommy Jeans draws from the nineties, celebrating the iconic pieces of that time and bringing new life into styles that marked the brand’s beginning. To interpret the spirit of the brand are Lucky Blue Smith, Anwar Hadid and So a Richie, stars of the ad campaign.

Nike, has chosen among its many successful styles to revisit the unforgettable Air Max 1, the iconic shoe for those were teenagers in the ‘90s. Now they return, new and reworked, ready to out t the feet of a new generation.

@Riproduzione Riservata

“COME AS YOU ARE” BY PIER NICOLA BRUNO

Leather coat DIRK BIKKEMBERGS; Jacket and Jeans Y/PROJECT; Shoes DSQUARED2

Photographer Pier Nicola Bruno
Stylist Giorgia Cantarini
Stylist Assistant Orsola Amadeo
Grooming Giulia Sbarzella @MH Artist
Model Artur @Fashion Model Management
Digital Tech Lorenzo Formicola
Post Production Elisa Trapani
Location Spirit de Milan

A Dive into Tania’s Life

 

Resilience.  It is perhaps the best word to describe Tania Cagnotto, Italy’ most accomplished diver ever and winner of two Olympic medals and a world gold medal.  After two bitter fourth place standings save for a few hundredths of a second in the London Olympics in 2012, the champion from Bolzano bounced back, going on to win the silver medal in the three-metre synchronised dive with Francesca Dallapé and an individual three-metre bronze in Rio in 2016.
Her resilience and determination led her to end her brilliant career winning the one-metre title at the indoor Italian Athletics Championship in Turin.  A “slam” of a closure, literally.  On her concluding dive, she waved to her public, ending with an explosive cannonball splash, as requested by her fans on social media.  With this interview, MANINTOWN dives into the life of the champion.

What was the most important thing you learned from your years of being in the water?
Definitely, it is to have respect. The water us something that can relax you, but teach you at the same time. It is always present, in the sea, whether for sport or for fun. It is essential.

In sports, the guidance of parents and professionals is fundamental, and in your case the two figures coincide. What role did your father have in your decision to dedicate yourself to diving?
My father definitely taught me so much, as did my mother, because they had the same experience and knew how to advise me. But they never pressured me, and that was one of the most important things. And maybe for that reason I went so far, because they forced no expectations on me.

How did you find the strength to keep going all these years?
When I was young, I began diving for fun, I had my diving team and I never missed out on anything: I had my friends and I had the sport. All together. I had everything I needed. After London, it wasn’t easy for me, but I felt that the only thing that would have made me feel better would be to win. Instead, after the World Aquatics Championships in Barcelona, I had my four best years, at the end of my career. It couldn’t have gone better.

What was the highest point of your long career?
Definitely Rio, the medal from the synchronised dive.

What is one thing you want to do that haven’t done before, perhaps because of your training schedule?
Just enjoy being home, without having to train, eating whatever I want.

What is your relationship with fashion?
I like it a lot, in fact now I want to dedicate myself to it more. I like going to fashion events and want do to more of it.

What garment represents you the most?
Dresses. Short ones, because I am tall, 6 foot 2.

One yet-to-be-fulfilled dream?
Maybe to be part of a nice diving team again, one day.

®All Rights Reserved

magnus. accidental artist

cover_i’d rather be happy baron, i’d rather be happy than dignified (2017);
24 ct gold leaf, silk screen & giclÉe on 308 gsm cotton rag archival paper.

Magnus Gjoen is a new kind of artist, a liquid artist (he calls himself accidental and after he explains why). Liquid, because today there is no need for attributions anymore. He Born in London to Norwegian parents, and grew up in Switzerland, Denmark, Italy as well as in the UK. He mix street and pop aesthetic into a fine art approach. Gjoen studied fine art and fashion design , he had work for brands such as Vivienne Westwood. Thought provoking and often emotional art, he offers a modern vision on classical masterpieces, or manipulates powerful and strong objects into something brittle, but always beautiful.

How did you become interested in the History of Art, which highly affects your production?
My passion for art and history comes from my childhood. I grew up in different places around the world and travelled a lot, and with that came countless visits to museums as well as my family being avid collectors of art. I studied fine art before I went onto studying fashion design and have come full circle back to art. I would say the thirst for discovery and beauty and the stories behind them is what has always driven me.

How would you explain the definition “accidental artist”?
It all came about as an accident when I wanted artwork to put on the walls of my new flat in London. I had no intention of going into art, but looking around at art I thought to myself ‘I can do that’, and so I did.

What should call forth in the public the view of your works?
An emotion. When creating a piece of art you always want to evoke a memory or emotion which the viewer is able to associate with. It can be anything but if it doesn’t do this you have failed in my post of view.

Are your creations more provocative or irreverent?
I think both. It sometimes surprises me what offends people in this day and age. I don’t set out to create a work that provokes, but rather that re-evaluates the norm and beauty associated with something. It’s about commenting on things which people don’t want to see.

How would you define beauty nowadays?
I would define beauty as one always has; something pleasing to the eye. Different people have different perspectives which makes some people see beauty where others don’t. Beauty is everywhere, one just has to look hard enough and choose to want to see it.

THE NEW GUISE OF SARTORIAL MENSWEAR

cover_Sartoria Orefice_Cernobbio_Como

What happens when award-winning fashion and a Made-in-Italy traditional segment like menswear tailoring encounters the web? How can needle and thread and a passion for bespoke garments go hand-in-hand with the network’s speed and with its global character? If, on the one hand, the World Wide Web is a communication tool for worldwide expansion, on the other hand, it also allows new opportunities for development, also for the most customized crafts, like hand-made tailoring. Today it takes the best to titillate men’s vanity, both in terms of fabrics and sartorial mastery. Hence the web is used not only to promote workshops dotting the Beautiful Country, but also to spread their cutting and sewing expertise. How? One of the most interesting tool currently online is Aplomb, a platform resulting from the passion and phantasy of three very young entrepreneurs, Federico Grasso, Luigi Ugge and Massimiliano Invernici, going to show that bespoke tailoring is not just “an old guys business”. In a matter of months, this “virtual tailors’ atelier”has become a rapidly growing business, aiming to create a network of sartorial appeal for real gentlemen. The goal is clear: not to bring the tailor’s atelier to the user’s place, but to bring client to tailor together through a painstakingly selected network of Italian tailor’s workshops, so that the new dandy can pick the one that is most suitable for him, both in terms of style and location, without running the risk of coming across a fake. Today, this portal comprises fifteen tailors’ ateliers in Lombardy, Veneto, Piedmont, Lazio, Apulia, Campania, Sicily and Basilicata, but the goal of the three entrepreneurs is to double the number in a very short time. Not a bad result, if we consider that Grasso’s, Ugge’s and Invernici’s combined years of age are far from totalling one century. The pre-selection of the sartorial ateliers occurs through an advisor, then there’s the interview. These strict criteria guarantee the user to find in Aplomb only the best, with practical info as to who guarantees a bespoke or made-to-measure service. It is possible to book a visit to a tailor’s workshop from the website, and soon a style advisor service will be available, allowing users to receive precious advice – the service is currently undergoing some testing. Aplomb is not only at the service of the connoisseurs, but also of the tailor’s workshops, indeed the platform allows them to promote themselves through articles, pics and videos: an outstanding way to illustrate a great passion for sartorial culture. Aplomb is likewise active on the social networks, which are used as communication tool to spread info, bring together the enthusiasts and share ideas and passions. The Facebook community totals approximately 2 thousand followers, and it is growing by 10% per week, while the Instagram profile has already reached 8k followers. The network has been selected to be part of the Start Up School/Y Combinator and is now part of the Founder Track program, a worldwide accelerator for the internationalization of websites, online activities and start-ups. The three managers have a forwards-looking mind-set, both in terms of time and space; their next step is the British market: to virtually join the two main marketplaces for the tailor-made, Italy and England. Faster than the Channel tunnel, they cross France with a click.

the uncommon rise of RYAn COOPER

cover_Blazer PORTS 1961; Coat ACNE

Ryan Cooper easily alternates fashion photoshoot sets and movies’ red carpets. He is the new face of international cinema. With his great screen presence and his statuesque body- he was also a carpenter-, this guy from New Guinea has convinced all and, starting with the advertising campaigns of Armani Exchange, DKNY, Hugo Boss and Trussardi Jeans, he has moved to the big screen and soon we can see him acting with Scarlett Johansson in Crazy Night.

Tell us about your roots and family. How did this influence your life?
I grew up without a lot of things, living in 3rd world countries with people who don’t have a lot, but were very happy and generous. It makes you appreciate the things that you do have but do not need. I remember we used to often eat our breakfast that had bugs in it due to the humidity. My dad was a missionary and really instilled his beliefs in us. He was a super hard-working guy, and that’s one thing that has definitely helped coming into this business. Treating people right and working hard, we work a lot of long days so you need stamina. I have done 20 hour days doing construction work in the past so that’s prepared me for 12 hours onset.

How did you start your modeling career?
Modeling was a bit of luck. A friend asked me to do a shoot for an outdoors store in New Zealand when I was in construction. Then another friend wanted to set me up with an agency that when I met with them they said “you’ll never work!” However, my current modeling manager saw my photos and from there on championed me to travel and work which allowed for a fun few years traveling and shooting around the world.

When did you decide to start cinema and how did it happen?
In New York, I met my now manager, who asked if I was interested in acting and has had my back ever since. Honestly, I had not thought of it since doing school productions as a kid. My dad encouraged me to “get a real job”, so I did, in construction. And now that I was traveling/modeling, I had the opportunity to learn from some wonderful coaches in NY and LA, and now have been able to work which is wonderful.

What was your debut in fiction and cinema?
My first jobs were smaller parts in indie movies then a brief stint on the soap, “One Life to Live” before that long-lasting production breathed its last breath. I kind of feel a little responsible for that death (laughs)!