Rankin in exhibition at CAMERA WORK GALLERY

The CAMERA WORK GALLERY in Berlin will host an exhibition by Rankin, one of the most respected living photographer. The exhibition includes more than 50 works created by the artist from 1995 until today. The visitors are invited to access to his fascinating world.  The works presented belong to different projects- including iconic nudes of supermodels such as Heidi Klum, Kate Moss and Gisele Bündchen, portraits of artists as David Bowie. All the works go beyond conventions, Rankins has the ability to cross artistic frontiers, creating his own idea and standards  of beauty. Rankin artworks are part of private and public collections and have been exposed around the world, also at NRW Forum in Dusseldorf, at Kunsthalle Rostock and at National Portrait Gallery in London.

RANKIN
from February 25 until April 1, 2017
CWC GALLERY
Augstrasse 11-13  
10117 Berlin Germany
rankin.co.uk
camerawork.de
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THE NEW GANT’S “GREEN” COLLECTION FOR THE SPRING/SUMMER 17

The new GANT Rugger’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection draws inspiration from art, especially from the music of Bob Dylan, who has contributed to spark the environmental movement in the 1960s, and from the charming embroidered textiles of Swedish folk artist Karin Larsson. Moreover, GANT approaches to street sports, with an edition of street essentials featuring unique and modern details, like denim jeans, shirts, summer blazers and new takes on the characteristic outfits. The collection completes the wardrobe with excellent textures and casual relaxed silhouettes, designed for forward-thinking men who respect the environment. The most important feature of these garments, in fact, is the research on the use of eco-friendly fabrics. The jersey selection is made exclusively of organic cotton. Together with oxford shirts, this represents another step forward for fashion. The key colors for this season are taken from American sports, and this creates a mix of classic and new vegetable dyes, that combine shades of blue, cream and sand with natural elements of green and red. The key patterns, instead, play with a redefinition of classic stripes and with an enhancement of the standard check pattern.

it.gant.com

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PRIMARK CELEBRATES SPORT

For next Spring / Summer 2017 season, the Irish giant has dedicated a line for sports and fitness enthusiasts. Women, men and children, the new Primark Workout collection combines style, performance and comfort all focusing on the dynamism of versatile and innovative garments that blend perfectly into the daily wardrobe. Bright colors, camouflage prints or floral, are the glue for the new proposal. Breathable fabrics provide excellent performance and facilitate the movements, while the hi-tech features of quick-drying material ensures the maintenance of the right body temperature during exercise.

www.primark.com
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NYFW: Yeezy Season 5

Kanye West has presented his Fall 2017 Yeezy Season 5 collection during New York Fashion Week. Hosted at Pier 59 the audience were led into a dark room with a pitch black obelisk in the middle, the lights went low and the show began. YEEZY Season 5 presented a new kind of Americana. Firmly rooted in the workwear and militaria staples of past seasons, this new iteration adds plenty of Western-inspired silhouettes.
Trucker jackets, washed denim, flannel shirts and YEEZY’s trademark woodland camos were prevalent in Carhartt-inspired work jackets and fatigue pants, reflective fireman’s coats and genuine GORE-TEX outerwear further expanded on the YEEZY oeuvre.

Photos Courtesy of Yeezy
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Paul Smith is back at Pitti Uomo

A big smile and a passionate enthusiasm. This is Paul Smith, who comes back to Pitti Uomo, after more than twenty years, as special guest for the launch of his Fall/Winter 2017 collection “PS by Paul Smith”. This collection celebrates the essence of the brand “Classic with a twist”, by introducing garments with classic lines and unexpected details that make each item unique. Paul Smith was the first designer to be invited to show at Pitti Uomo in 1991, as he says during his interview in exclusive for MANINTOWN, and this fact makes him even more pleased and proud to return to Florence. In these years fashion is enormously changed and it has acquired an international dimension, becoming accessible wherever and whenever with a simple click. The British designer admits, with a little bit of regret, that the arrival of Internet has revolutionized the way people go shopping, and this is causing the crisis of the brick-and-mortar stores, in favor of online shopping. To discover other curiosities, watch the video interview.

www.paulsmith.co.uk

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RAF SIMONS PRESENTED HIS DEBUT COLLECTION FOR CALVIN KLEIN

Raf Simons presented his Fall 2017 CALVIN KLEIN runway show in New York. In the artwork, the designer imagines the diversity of America and let the artist Sterling Ruby represents it on the stage. Indeed, the collection and the show are an homage to America, that is together the future, the past, the Art Deco, people dressed in different styles, it is a mix of everything. So, items of clothing created reflect this melting pot: different fabrics, plastic protections over the coats,  antique handcrafted quilting. Cohabiting creates new shapes: not one, but many.® All Rights Reserved

 

Pamela Anderson for Coco de Mer

Coco de Mer, the luxury lingerie brand, in occasion of Valentine’s day, presents a video empowering women to take back control of this day. The video has been realized by Rankin and sees Pamela Anderson, Coco de Mer ambassador, as the protagonist of a humorously subversive film, in which women intimacy is celebrated. In the scenes, Pamela returns home to her apartment. As she undresses and prepares for the sensual Valentine’s night ahead, we are lead to believe she is awaiting for a man. However, the film surprised audiences. Based on irony, the driving sentiment is one of female empowerment. About Pamela, Rankin says that the actress was the ideal figure to play with people’s perceptions of Valentine’s Day. The Full Service agency – established in London- was created by Rankin,  they create entire campaigns under one roof, from creative to production. Now Maruska Mas has appointed as their Bussiness Director. About this project, Maruska Mason says their aim is to push the boundaries of brands advertising,  indeed the collaboration with Coco de Mer is the perfect example of that and of their passions for brands. This film is just the beginning of the parternership that involves together the Full Service, Pamela Anderson and Coco de Mer.

www.coco-de-mer.com
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Video Credit: The Full Service agency

Hogan presents a preview of the ss 2017 adv campaign

Paris, two disarming beauty models – Sara Sampaio and Andrew Cooper -, the black and white tones that shine under the lens of Sebastian Kim, the two characters that move relaxed and full of grace (a backstage video signed by Bruno Miotto testifies harmony and lightness): in the foreground the Hogan shoes and bags line that plays on soft contrasts, a minimal palette, extremely refined, based on white and black, with perfectly measured pop accents, such as the lifted-up sole, in multicolor, which enriches the most glam sneaker women model.
Clutch with elegant finishes, glitter to break the enveloping black: faded model for men’s, variations of gray that go well with formal outfits of a contemporary businessman, dynamic and fast in a metropolitan jungle.
Hogan is character and affirmation, is balance and innovation. For a very effective advertising campaign, in its essential concept.

 hogan.com/it_it

 

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THEORY MEN’S presents the fall/winter 2017 collection

Theory Men’s Fall / Winter 2017 is one of the first Theory collections designed and developed at the Fast Retailing Innovation Center (FRIC) in New York. The FRIC that deal with the development of prototypes using the newest technologies. Theory Men’s Fall / Winter 2017 gives a new order to male wardrobe. Placed at the ground floor space of the FRIC and enhanced by sculptural works from the Italian architect and designer Ettore Sottsass. Every cloth and fit is characterized by dynamicity and urban lifestyle. Every style has been created for a man who is committed to work and who believes in the power of  progress.

theory.com

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“Bally is super”

The Eighties vibrations are transmitted by Bally in its last SS2017 campaign. The aim is bring the famous slogan back to the life: “Bally is super” underlining optimism and irony that have always characterized the brand. MTV, pop art and Andy Warhol have been inspirations to a campaign that has as protagonist the Newyorker Irina Shayk  flanked by models Kit Butler and David Trulik, photos taken by Gregory Harris.

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G star Research II: at Paris Fashion Week the creative debut of Aitor Throup

Born from brand innovation laboratory, Raw Research II explores the limitless possibilities of denim. Experimentation, research and innovation: the RAW capsule collection introduces denim innovations such as prototypes, representing RAW G-Star’s design philosophy in its purest form. The highlight innovation is the search for a new concept of 3D denim: the Motac series,  a result of a targeted ergonomic study on the human body in motion. The approach used is the combination of rigid denim with flexible fabric panels for truly surprising results. The capsule collection Raw Research II is the first after the announcement of Aitor Throup as creative director of the brand. The designer is thereby demonstrating its vision of the future of denim. The collection will be available in selected high-end concept stores worldwide from early June 2017.

g-star.com
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FEELING SUPERSONIC

From left: Neil Barrett shirt; From right: A.N.G.E.L.O. Vintage T-shirt
“I need to be myself, I can’t be no one else”

Photographer| Fabrizio Martinelli
Stylist| Martina Verità
Model| Andrew @bravemodelmanagement
Hair And Make Up| Roberto Mambretti @auraphotoagency
Digital and Photo Assistant| Ennio De Cola

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New Balance presents the new Fresh Foam 1080v7

The new advanced cushioning  technology Fresh Foam New Balance has attracted runners from all over the world, especially the model Fresh Foam 1080. The new collection is evolved in comparison with the previous one, this focus on the study of the  point of contact between the corridor and the ground level, improving the midsole design and ensuring a  greater cushioning. Moreover the shoe upper provides both a laterally and a medially support, while along the whole  shoe the mesh is built in order to give a correct fit to the farefoot. In combination to the  Fresh Foam 1080v7, New Balance launches a new collection Viz Run, with seams and details “ glow in the dark”, that are able to make runners visible in case of low light. Light jackets, top and elastic pants have been created both for her and for him.

www.newbalance.it

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MOMODESIGN launches a new collection for an urban man

MOMODESIGN in the new coats collection introduces a new concept of lifestyle dedicated to an urban man. The field jacket drawn by Leonardo Fasolo, are innovative and people- oriented, in which leisure style and technicality of world of cycling are unified both in the shape and in the function. The brand creates a collection for a man with an urban aptitude who needs practical, light, comfortable coats, in order to live his day in the city. The concept of urban technology is expressed trough the realization of coats with multifunctional details,, like “fast escape” zip, the soft  padding of the hood, and tecnical materials as rainproof, wind proof, insulating ones that make coats functional tothe highest levels.

www.momodesign.com

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Hackett London lancia il nuovo abito Journey: su misura per i veri globetrotter

Lo skydiving per evidenziare l’eleganza sartoriale e le performance eccezionali del nuovo abito firmato da Hackett London. Il famoso marchio inglese, per la primavera/estate 2017, ha creato la soluzione ideale per l’uomo sempre in movimento. Il completo, chiamato non a caso Journey, è confezionato con un’attenzione meticolosa per i dettagli: la lana utilizzata è leggera e ultra performante, inoltre è traspirante e in grado di assicurare il massimo comfort. Il filato impiegato offre qualità idrorepellenti, in più, essendo composto da un filo trattato completamente al naturale e igroscopico, è antibatterico e adatto a qualsiasi condizione di viaggio. Un’altra caratteristica che rende l’abito perfetto per i lunghi viaggi risiede nella capacità di non sgualcirsi durante i numerosi spostamenti tra aerei, taxi e auto, in quanto è stato progettato in modo da assecondare il movimento del corpo e per mantenere intatti aplomb ed eleganza. Perfetto anche dopo un atterraggio con il paracadute, come mostra il video virale “Landing in Style”, che celebra il lancio dell’abito, sottolineandone in modo divertente le qualità tecniche attraverso un eccitante sport estremo.

www.hackett.com

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Dsquared2 and K-Way®

During Milan fashion week Dsquared2 launches a new unique project of cobranding with the iconic brand K-Way, known for its rainproof and timeless jackets.The capsule collection is a mix of the contemporary and irreverent  design of Dsquared2 with the informal and functional style of K-Way. Combining together the iconography of both brands, the final effect is a item of clothing with spontaneity and a strong character. The jackets, reversible and easy to fold, can be worn without distinctions both by her and by him. The features  of the nylon jacket are showed up on oversized jackets by Dsquared2 style: vivid and sparkling colors, like yellow and orange. Instead , other jackets are enriched with red and black patch or check inspired by Canadian sports and also with floral prints  borrowed by Dsquared2 autumn-winter collection. The capsule collection rich of “oversize details” will be presented starting from July 2017.
www.dsquared2.com
www.k-way.com

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Identi- kitty

A born and raised Brooklynite, Cachee Livingston, aka Kitty Cash went from FIT student to fashion publicist before jetting around the world for DJ gigs and hanging with friends like Solange or starting to do appreciations hours for Missy Elliot. Now, a fashion darling, she aslo had her style column on Huffington Post and has just launched her clothing line and her latest mixtape conceived with her usual finesse.

Who is Kitty Cash?

A dj and publicist in love with Fashion.

How did your career start?
I started djing for musician Kilo Kish. Then I decided to give birth to “Love The Free” mix series that have being defined as little gems across fashion, art, tech, and film industries. I selected music from some of the best rising artists that I’ve also contributed to discover, such as Willow Smith, Sampha, Vic Mensa, Jesse Boykins III, Dev Hynes, Kelela, SZA, Rome Fortune, and many others.

How is your work?
I love being behind the scenes and also in front of the camera, which is so weird! But I think it’s a good balance, you know, it keeps me super grounded.

How would you describe your style?
Individuality. I can go to sporty style to chic apparel, with a true passion for shoes and denim.

The last mixtape is the third volume of “Love The Free” mix series, can you tell us about it?
I also produced some production myself (along with a Left Brain track) and artists such as Lil Yachty, Raury, Solange, and many others appear.

THE PACK BY KITTY CASH

Multi-tasking DJ Kitty Cash continues to expand her creativity, with the launch of a clothing label called “The Pack.” The first release includes a white tee, and hoodie and black varsity jacket featured in a video lookbook, directed by J. Cavallini and a lookbook shot by Quil Lemons. The music (’cause there has to be music) is “In Love” by Million Dollah Rah. Visit iamkittycash.com for more info on how to purchase.

Kitty was photographed in Miami
Photographer| Julien Boudet (Bleu Mode)
Stylist| Giorgia Cantarini
Grooming| Jeanette

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SUKET DHIR indo-centric contemporary menswear

Among the countries to discover for the rich heritage and a dynamic fashion scene, it is India which surprises for the creativity of its talents. In the menswear panorama a name to watch is Suket Dhir, talented and acclaimed Indian designer, who will showcase for the first time at WHITE MAN & WOMAN tradeshow with his collection named The Royal Within, a tribute to a next generation craftsmanship. Winner of the authoritative International Woolmark Prize 2016 Mr Dhir is the scrupulous observer of a global culture that ceaselessly transforms and evolves. From his little studio in the Lado Sarai district, the latest creative hub in New Delhi, with his hands ideally outstretched to the world, Suket draws inspiration from the memories of a pure youth, the memory of his grandfather, always sporting an umbrella under his right arm – ideal archetypal of an elegance devoid of superstructures – down to the summer holidays in the mango orchards and plantations of a subcontinent that was very different from today’s India, though equally rich in suggestions: composed men with an outstanding sense of shape and proportions. Clean lines and a natural taste for colour are this designer’s main features, who graduated at the National Institute Fashion Technology in New Delhi. Next, thanks to the International Woolmark Prize, success came with the right dose of clamour also thanks to his wife, a manager capable of skilfully handling the brand’s marketing activities and to a good-natured Punjabi Hindu. A sort of outsider of the Indian fashion system, creator of a fashion that is synonym for extremely refined craftsmanship and featuring a sharp colour palette. Dhir engenders a harmonious synthesis between contemporary geometries, wearable silhouettes and ethereal taste, combining handicraft techniques with the use of mostly ecological premium fabrics like cotton, linen, bamboo, fine muslin, silk and wool to give birth to shapes that are seemingly classic, yet revealing an eccentric and very refined twist.
Suket Dhir is debuting at WHITE MILANO a unique journey through di erent handicraft techniques, a playful research leading to superior creations. A talent to keep an eye on the international menswear scene.

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Gary Baseman and his pervasive art

On an evening like many others at Art Basel, the world famous art event held annually in Miami, The Webster Hotel in the heart of the Art Deco district hosted a preview presentation of the Spring/Summer 2017 menswear collaboration between artist Gary Baseman and the American fashion brand Coach. The shop inside the hotel was transformed into a universe of drawings and sketches by Baseman, with custom-made objects from his characters as the evil Buster Le Fauve and “wildbeast,” a comic rendition of the classic leopard. The installation concept developed from the artist’s long-standing partnership with Stuart Vevers, the Creative Director of the historic house, for whom Baseman has created exclusive prints and graphics playing on classic American iconography (remember the smiley face? For the Baseman/Coach collaboration it lique es while continuing to smile), whose symbols and themes distinguish the S/S 2017 men’s and women’s collection, injected with a bit of college and rockabilly avour. During the evening, the artist himself customized two leather biker jackets on-the-spot while explaining the origin of the collaboration.
A multifaceted artist, illustrator, designer and author of the famous Disney cartoon Teacher’s Pet, and winner of three Emmy Awards, Gary Baseman is considered one of the prominent gures of California’s Pop Surrealist scene, characterized by the fusion between art and pop culture. Mr. Baseman began his career in New York between the second half of the eighties and the first half of the nineties, as an illustrator for The New Yorker, The New York Times, Rolling Stone, Time, Atlantic Monthly and The Los Angeles Times. Back in California, Baseman dedicated himself to exploring di erent forms of hybridization between art, fashion, advertising, design, music and film, and has coined the term “Pervasive Art” to define his aesthetic, which blurs the line between Fine Art and Commercial Art. What are his influences? “When I think of my influences Darger comes to mind- the schizophrenic self-taught Chicago artist who died in 1973, who for over sixty years secretly created an illustrated manuscript over 15,000 pages long. He is a source of inspiration for many pop surrealists. Then there are many of the art world’s stars like Andy Warhol, Mark Rothko, Man Ray, Takashi Murakami. Early in my career I looked to Miguel Covarrubias, Charles Addams, Walt Disney and the artists of the old Warner Bros. cartoons. I also appreciate Maurizio Cattelan, Gregory Crewdson and Je Koons.”
Gary Baseman, however, is not only a painter, a versatile illustrator and creator of cartoons and toys. You can tell that right away; after an evening of talking about art and life around the artists’ district Wynwood, where I had the privilege of having his guided tour, I now believe he’s more of a guru or Lifecoach. Although his works have a dark vein, observing the outcome is one of contagious energy- even observing the most contrite faces or stylized skeletons, it’s hard not to smile. All the characters that populate his imagination are capable of impersonating a real state of mind or emotion, as if they were true prophets of the philosophical and existential being of the artist himself. His drawings, at times even gothic and macabre, are nothing but representations of the fears and emotional conflicts that we all live. Gary explains that each of his key characters have a name and the name is linked their meaning within his works. The first we speak about is Toby, a real puppet who travels with Gary around the world and shows up on his Instagram account. “Toby is always by my side, he takes selfies and photos with the interesting people I encounter during my wanderings. I created him in a very strange moment in my life when I was having a hard time trusting others. In fact, Toby has even been to Rome, where I took a photo of him in the Sistine Chapel, then tried over and over again to take the same picture in the Sistine Chapel. On the umpteenth shot, a guard came over and told me “no photos here!” I tried to stash away the camera but he made me delete every last photo. The power of the church is strong in Italy.” Speaking of power, let’s talk about that of women, who in Gary’s artistic style occupy an important place. In fact, Baseman fact loves being surrounded by girls in his paintings, transforming seemingly innocent stuffed animals into nude Venuses who interact with each other in a loving, passionate or violent way. “Women are the real heroines of my art, and have never treated them in a negative light. They are the heroines of my paintings, they are not portrayed as hateful nor as ideal objects of beauty. I’m doing a photography project about fashion, creating a series of doll costumes almost like aprons from the ‘50s that I used to dress my “Wild Girls” or girls with interesting faces that I notice on the street and become models for my shooting or muses for my next drawings. They are warriors like the “Vivian Girls” by Henry Darger. They fight evil. These may seem like dolls but all of my characters are dolls or puppets.”
If Toby is Baseman’s most famous character, then Dumb Luck, the smiling crippled rabbit with his amputated leg in hand, is the epitome of idiocy. Chouchou, instead, is a creature who absorbs negative energy around him and transforms it into a thick white cream that comes out of his navel, while HotChaChaCha is a little demon, who makes the angels impure, depriving them of their halo, while Ahwroo is a cat that becomes fierce and scratches everything when it doesn’t receive enough attention, inspired directly from Gary’s cat Blackie, the mutable character both disquieting and tender at the same time.. Baseman himself calls all of his characters, including those he designed for Coach, “the members of a secret society that guards our deepest desires, an imperfect and bitter sweet celebration of the beauty of life taking part in the eternal conflict between good and evil, between joy and pain, love and death in a kaleidoscope of colours that inspire a kind of lunatic-park. Their personality is different from that of other more famous people, they are a little bit misfits, but with real characteristics that people can relate to and which makes them smile. And for that we cannot help but love them.” Speaking of secret societies and secret, do you have one to tell me? “I’d like to think that if you come into contact with my characters- whether it be wearing a Coach T-shirt or watching one of my cartoons- I’m an open book, I have no secrets because they are all on the canvas or in the pages of my sketches. You just have to guess the code.”

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FACE TO FACE WITH BEN AINSLIE

PHOTOS COURTESY OF LAND ROVER

He began to sail alone at 8 years old, in Cornovoglia, next to his home. At 16 he was already world’s champion on Laser Radial and at 19 he won the first olympic silver medal at the Olympic Game in Atlanta. Four years later, he has realized the dream of every athlete winning the olympic gold medal at the Olympic Game in Sydney. A complete and deeply focused athlete with a British savoir-faire: Sir Ben Ainslie is one who goes fast, who knows what he wants and likes to win. After all, the adrenaline of regatta races runs in his veins for a long time since his father, Roddy, was a sailor too who has raced the Volvo Ocean Race (once called Whitbread Round the World Race). Next step? The America’s Cup that will be held at the end of May in Bermuda for which he is assiduously working on with his team Land Rover Bar focused on an ambitious objective: to bring the cup home. When he is on the mainland, he drives a Range Rover Sport, but as the best modern gentlemen, he has an Aston Martin in garage for the playdays.

When did you start love the ocean and sailing? And why do you like this particular sport so much?
I grew up in Cornwell which is the far South West of the UK – and a place where the sea and sailing is a part of the everyday life. The first time I went sailing on my own was in an optimist dinghy – which slightly resembles a bath tub but it’s what all young people learn to sail in – I was 8 years old and my Dad pushed me out on my own and the sensation of feeling the water running under the boat and being on my own and in sole control of a craft was an amazing exhilarating feeling and sense of freedom – and that sparked my love for the sport and the ocean.

When you are not racing, what kind of sports do you like?
Sports I like include Formula 1, golf, cycling and football but I like watching any competitive sport to be honest.

How is one of your normal day if you don’t have training?
My normal day if we don’t have training – is to spend time with my wife, Georgie, and baby daughter, Bellatrix who is now 5 months old, and enjoy being at home. But, I do also still have to do some training – and it’s actually easier to do some physical training when we aren’t with the team cos there is sometimes more time. I also like reading – many different types of books in my down time.

You and your team are working on the next America’s Cup, what is the challenge this time? How is it important for you?
It’s a massive challenge, it’s obviously very hard to win the Cup particularly at the first attempt – only one other team has done this in the history of the Cup – so our goal is to achieve that. It means a lot for us being a British team – with the first event being held around the Isle of Wight back in 1851 and we have never won it or seen the Cup since so that’s what really drives us to try and bring the Cup home.

Have you ever feel fear when you are out sailing?
These boats that we are sailing [foiling AC45s and America’s Cup Class boats] are clearly incredibly fast – and to sail them fast you are constantly sailing right on the limit which means that you certainly have to be very aware of the potential dangers and have a lot of respect for the power of these boats. It’s fair to say when you are sailing one of these boats, you are only focused on one thing.

 Back in 2013, you began Sir, from then how do you keep the balance between Sir Ben Ainslie and “Ben Ainslie the Olympic winner”?
I think like all people when you grow older and mature you naturally change slightly, for me getting married and starting a family and being in a position of founding a sports team and a business I’ve naturally had to change my approach to some things. I guess the great thing about sailing as a sport is once you are on the water and you are competing there is only one way to approach that – the race – and it’s to try and win. But when you are back on land that character has to change slightly.

What is in your opinion that makes a man a gentleman?
I think having respect for everybody, and good manners, in my book are what’s really important.

How important is having your own style (in habits, fashion, etc.)?
Well, it is very important for one’s persona I guess, to feel like you are an individual with your own style and way of doing things. I think fashion changes as time moves on – that’s inevitable – and an individual’s taste will change as they mature – which again, is inevitable – but the great thing is that it is all an evolution and it never stays still.

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CONFESSIONS OF A COLLECTOR

Just before Christmas last year, it only took 13 minutes to make history as the Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 watch, which boasts a stainless steel perpetual calendar with moon phases, became the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction at a price of just over 11 million Swiss Francs (10,2 million Euros). Winning the highest bid, out of 400 people present in the Phillips auction hall in Geneva and another 500 online or by phone, was an anonymous private collector. Because the world of watch collection is like that: a pleasure to live, not to show off. To understand the habits and passions of this hardly small “sect,” we met one of its followers able to provide us some insight, but- it goes without saying- that he asked to remain anonymous.

Why be passionate about watches?
In my case, I wasn’t looking to become passionate, the passion found me. For as long as I can remember, even at a young age, I always looked at watches in shop windows or asked for one as a gift. It’s a very relaxed world, one that moves slowly and marks time without rushing. First I became interested in Rolex watches, then I moved to Patek Philippe (for my collection) and then finally to the hard to recognise niche brands for the watches I wear, but I also wear Rolex watches often because it they were my first love.

How do you build a collection and what budget should you have at your disposition to start out?
It stands to reason, a lot. You can specialise in collecting watches with certain features or from a particular brand or era. Every collector has his own focus: Rolex, in my opinion, is a must, although I focused more on Patek. Someone could even collect watches that cost 50 Euros, it depends on the collector’s economic ability. I always say choose what you love, because watches are objects to be worn, they transmit emotion.

New or vintage? And why?
It depends on the type of collection. I am more interested in recent watches.

Can you still get good deals on watches?
In the long term I would say so, yes. It’s not an easy thing, though, because in the last few years the prices have risen markedly, so in order for a style to appreciate and for the seller to earn a profit, it’s now necessary to wait a long time.

Where can you find more information online?
I follow various forums for the timepiece world: Timezone, Hodinkee and in Italy, Orologi & Passioni

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ARTIST FUSION FROM ROME

Coffee Pot is a comfortable, carefully tended place with a modern and original menu. It is a meeting point for people from the international jet set, actors and influencers. Among its proposal you can find the sushi rolls, the poke bowl, the nigiri and its tacos gourmet. Its winning nippo-mexican formula is enriched with an hawaiian mix of cooking technique such as the the low temperature food baking. The two high profile chefs are Marco Fontana, for the mexican proposals, the low temperature cooking and the pastry, and Ajmal Ameer for the sushi and the Raw Food.

Le Asiatique” is an Asian restaurant where food is redesigned with the fusion criteria. Its founders are Michelle Sermoneta and Stefano Calò. The project, realized in a 300 square feet area is an unicum in the Roman scene: a labirynt of 6 Roman-Asian rooms unfolds itself in a building from the XVIII century. The gastronomic offer is signed by the chef Daniel Cavuoto. In the menu you can find as starters duck Goyza and foie gras served with 36 months Parmesan, tempura pumpkin ower with mozzarella di bufala, ponzu and mayo with soy reduction; salmon Poke with rice, wild salmon tartare, mango and salmon roe or grey pork Ramen with noodles, bacon, mushrooms and nori seaweed among the main courses.

Nojo is a fusion restaurant by Alessandro and Marco Pica set in the heart of Rome. Here the Japanese tradition meets the Hawaiian one and melts with the modern European cooking, generating a mix of extraordinary style developed by our food and beverage team to give to our guests a unique experience. At night we make our magic: amid the soft lights of our lounge and a wisely done cocktail by our bartender Salvatore, our chef Valerio Esse tells us his worldview and of the fusion cooking with a menu set to break the rules of culinary traditionalism.

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Nike presents LunarEpic Flyknit 2

Nike presents a new running sneaker, Nike Flyknit LunarEpic2, with an extra light shoe upper, fitting and seamless, ensuring support, flexibility and traspirability. The Lunarlon midsole, soft and shaped, with laser carving on both sides, that are bent on foot impact. Thanks to carved sole with laser, the cushioning is amplified and the impact is disperded on the whole foot. The new Nike Flyknite LunarEpic 2 will be available starting from 16th February online and in the best selling points.

www.nike.com

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INDEPENDENT PUBLISHING

With an important past in the publishing sector- formerly the General Trade Director of the Mondadori Group and CEO of Einaudi, to name a few- Riccardo Cavallero began a new project in 2016, founding SEM (Società Editrice Milanese). For its first book, the company will publish and unreleased work by Federico Fellini, L’Olimpo. It is the story of the erotic passions and dramas of the Gods, an opportunity to retrace the archetypes of our imaginations in a biting but dreamlike way as only Fellini, one of last century’s greatest storytellers, knew how. Now, however, we hear the editor’s story:

Let’s talk about madness. The choice to open a publishing house in 2016- isn’t that crazy?In a world where everyone talks about “innovation,” book publishing essentially has not changed since Gutenberg. Even the process of creating a book hasn’t changed. After my 25 years of international work experience (in the USA, Spain, South America and Italy), a friend Mario Rossetti– founding partner of Fastweb and innovator by calling- and I decided to try to change the rules of the game. With a lean structure, solid professionalism and a propensity toward tailored publishing, we treat books as individuals, like one-of-a-kind products. We’re not about blockbuster series, homogenization, or corporate thinking. The only brand that interests us is the authors and their stories. It was not by chance that we chose a retro, “transparent” name like Società Editrice Milanese. We don’t spend a single Euro on advertising; instead we invest in technology and good service. For example, we are the first in Italy (and among the first in the world) to offer the reader the digital e-book and audio book included in the price of the printed version. We sell stories, and the reader should be free to decide how to access them.

Was there a moment or meeting or idea that pushed you in this direction?
It all happened fairly casually. I worked in Finance, doing mergers and acquisitions. Then when I was around 30 years old I began working at Mondadori as the Marketing Director. When I spoke about books as “products” it sent my coworkers over the edge, they chastised me for it, but then it just clicked. When I was approached for another job I suddenly realised that working in publishing was the greatest job in the world and I wanted to stay in this archaic, but fascinating sector. It is an extremely difficult, all-consuming and continually stressful job. But there’s a strange magic to it that I’ve not encountered in any other industry. Of course, it helps to have “colleagues” like Ken Follet, Vargas Llosa and Nicolò Ammanniti help me get through the tougher parts of the daily grind.

Why is reading so important?
It helps to form a broader view of the world so we are less afraid of it. It serves to offer us new perspectives that are different from our own. It teaches us never to give up, to never stop growing and to never stop learning.

Is there a trick to know if a book is “good”?
It is very complicated and changes every day. There are a million ingredients but no real scale by which to measure them. Only experience, insight, and a bit of good fortune.

How did you discover the unreleased work of Fellini that will be published at the end of January?
Our Editing Director, Antonio Riccardi, has long collaborated with Rosita Copioli, curator of the text and one of the most renowned scholars on the master Fellini. It was a complicated process, but we are thrilled and proud to be able to kick off our publications with a work of this calibre. Imagine, this work supposedly contained the nucleus of what was supposed to be a character for a TV series. This was forty years before Netflix. Talk about modern.

When I say style and elegance, what comes to mind for you?
I think of the Nobel ceremony in ’82 and the marvellous white guayabera worn by Gabriel Garcia Marquez, who I had the fortune of being friends with and editor for during my years in Spain. A good-natured and very sweet person with a simple charm, not at all an attention-seeker, but with an unmistakable style on paper and in life. He was very elegant, despite not being an Adonis. Gabo was Gabo because he didn’t have anything to prove to anyone. When he passed away, I didn’t hesitate to fly 20 hours over three days to attend his funeral. He was one-of-a-kind.

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Heaven’s Kitchen: WHEN FOOD… IS FASHIONABLE

Like a garment of clothing, a music genre or a literary movement, so do international cuisines dance, at a rhythmic pace, around the carousel of what is contemporary and glamorous. In a cyclical rhythm, cuisine returns to the spotlight, with its disparate traditions, smells, customs and curious combinations: today food has many manifestations, from the words in adverts to the highlight around our social occasions. If you exclude the Japanese trend, declining in popularity even in its most integral version consisting of ramen and sake; and the Lebanese trend, which some Italian chefs deem the most varied and mysterious cuisine of all; three main diffusions in the last few years have entered popular gastronomy: Peruvian cuisine, Khmer food (Cambodian cuisine), and finally a modernization of traditional Indian cuisine, done in minimal and luxury interpretations.

Just head over to London- the cost of flights these days allows for a nice weekend break, even just to try these novelties- and discover Andina, a bistro located in the heart of Soho, that has caught the public’s and media’s attention with good reason: the fusion of Peruvian cuisine mixed with more western influence flavours and aromas (and an entire menu section devoted just to ceviche). Andina offers brunch, as well as a selection of high calibre cocktails and liquors, all presented with utmost design sense and appealing visual aesthetic, since, after all, food is tasted first by the eyes. And there is nothing more satisfying than an extravagant mix-and-match of colour and adornment to please the palate’s first glance.

Khmer cuisine, often overlooked due to its similarity to Thai cuisine, is rich with a variety of very unique spices, flowers and roots that are expertly paired with fresh ingredients. The New York chain Num Pang Sandwich Shop, which boasts locations on six of the most strategic corners of the city, adds that fresh touch of glamour and sober minimalism to the culinary art of an antique gastronomic tradition. If offers tempting sandwiches paired with teas, ginger juices and other fruit infusions, all served with a front row view of the marvellous frenetic comings and goings of the city that never sleeps. A true expert model in take-away and quick eat-in dining, Num Pang combines courage, fusion and a great atmosphere. Stop in and try it the next time you’re in New York.

For those who worship by the philosophy of high taste expression and the fervent hunt for fascinating flavours- those mouthfuls from the East capable of turning any moment on its head- we return to the British capital talk about Gymkhana, the exclusive club in Mayfair based on traditional Indian colonial clubs. Here, dishes pass under the extraordinary expert eye of Karam Sethi, the Michelin starred chef well-known both in his home country and abroad, who even the strictest food critics agree breaks the mould with his knowledge of culinary arts. Gymkhana, a luxury restaurant whose fine taste also extends to the aesthetic elements, both in its decor and menu selection, presents conceptual reinterpretations of Indian cuisine, experimenting with adaptations and sauces that challenge classicism, in addition to offering a selection of prized wines from their cellar.

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CLIMBER B.C. THROUGH THE INTERNATIONAL ELEGANCE WITH MIGRATION

Migration. As it calls itself, in one word, is CLIMBER B.C.‘s aesthetic path taken this season. Migration, because the new collection by this Turkish brand with a cosmopolitan DNA (which belongs to the holding company Cuno), is a cross between Eastern millenarian tradition, Western culture, and savoir faire artisanry with an industrial imprint. Thus, an intersection of style and culture condensed into a line of menswear capable of expressing sartorial flavor mixed with entrepreneurial intelligence. With CLIMBER B.C. the silhouettes are lean and confident, featuring double breasted jackets accompanied by skinny pants, tailored suits, resulting in an expression of urban modernism that nods to classic style. But there’s more. The Black CLIMBER B.C. instead, is the energetic soul of this high end menswear line, carried out by designer Ümit Ünal, with an avant guarde touch where monochromatic rigor looks to satisfy the needs of the new generation, no longer interested in the fashion world itself but rather in individual garments that are simpler but more functional. In fact, the sportswear line is an anthropocentric approach to the masculine esthetic. Behind this menswear phenomenon, on the rise in international markets, is the clever thinking of the Samsana brothers. Born in Adiyaman, an antique Turkish settlement on the Silk Road which today boasts the honor of being a UNESCO World Heritage Centre- you could already foresee their future based on these origins- the brothers arrived in Istanbul in 1985 and ten years later, gave life to the phenomenal CLIMBER B.C. Ever since, the brand has built its entrepreneurial and aesthetic story piece by piece, now spreading its touch of elegance to over 30 countries in Europe and Asia, and even into the heart of Russia. Today the brand counts on an extensive network of distribution that includes more than a hundred retail outlets, both mono-brand and multi-brand, to which they’ve also added the strategic opening of a showroom at Via Borgonuovo 12 in Milan, further illustrating the Samsama brothers’ willingness to be present in menswear’s most important fashion capitals.

www.climberbc.com

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ALFA ROMEO’S NEXT STEP

ALFA ROMEO STELVIO QUADRIFOGLIO

Unveiled to the American market during the car show in Los Angeles last November, the Alfa Romeo Stelvio represents a real step forward in path toward revitalising the Alfa Romeo brand. To describe it best you have to resort to a linguistic balance: elegant arrogance. This innovative crossover SUV is indeed the perfect incarnation of style, sportiness and an Italian aptitude for muscle. Not surprisingly, the model chosen for the honour of this launch was the Quadrifoglio, a 3-litre twin turbo 510hp petrol engine developed with the help of Ferrari, capable of powering this beast up to 285 km/h, accelerating from 0 to 100 in 3.9 seconds and taking a lap at the Nürburgring in 7’59.” Carbon-ceramic brakes? Of course. No competitor in its segment can boast similar numbers, so not surprisingly the Stelvio has immediately earned the sincere approval (and admiration) of both the public and the press.  The car will arrive on the European market around February, listing a 2.0-litre engine offered both in petrol and in diesel; a more urban, less sporty version than the Quadrifoglio, but by no means less attractive. The innovative value of the Stelvio is exclusive to its engine; the car is built based on Giorgio, Alfa Romeo’s platform on which the Giulia model is based, which boasts outstanding performance in terms of lightness, dynamics and safety, performance results that earned it the recognition of Euro Car Body 2016. Quality, advanced technology and good design are the traits that determine the success of a car and its brand today and in the future; the Stelvio possesses them all. Forward we go.

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NEW SOCCER RISING STARS

They call them Baby Boomers, great promises, rising stars: they are the new-generation footballers: young, ambitious and, most importantly, talented. All younger than 25, they can already call the shots in big club like Milan, Real Madrid, Bayern Monaco and Manchester City.

GIANLUIGI DONNARUMMA

We haven’t seen a story like his in Italy for years. He debuted aged 16 with Milan and was soon labelled Buffon’s heir, actually since his very first match. Thanks to his premium performances he soon became a regular: Gianluigi – Gigio – Donnarumma is the second youngest goalkeeper to play in the Italian premier league, following Gianluca Pacchiarotti, and he is already a role model. Gianluigi, alias Gigio, was born on 25 February 1999 in Castellammare di Stabia, in Campania. He is professional footballer Antonio Donnarumma’s younger brother. Until 2013 he played with Club Napoli Castellammare. At the time he made an audition with Inter, but, as he himself stated, he preferred AC Milan, having always been his favourite team. Donnarumma has an excellent track-record and his season is turning into the telltale example of a new Milan which, with an average age of 26, is capable of ranking high in the Italian premier League table. His wonder-season also won him his debut in the National team, thanks to coach Giampiero Ventura’s predisposition for young players. There are rumours that he may be purchased by Juventus next year for tens of millions Euro, although Gigio’s heart will always beat for Milan. What is certain is that his extraordinary goalkeeper career is just beginning.

ANDREA BELOTTI

His “rooster” exultation can be traced back to his childhood, spent in the province of Bergamo, between Calcinate, his hometown, and his aunt’s farm in Grumello, where he chased the cocks in the roost. Despite his nickname, Andrea Belotti hardly ever raises his crest. Born 22 years ago in a village with 6000 inhabitants in the province of Bergamo, Belotti started playing soccer professionally with Albinoleffe, following a failed audition with Atalanta. Belotti debuted in the Serie B in 2011/2012, he scored a goal during the fist match and, despite the team’s relegation, in September 2013 he started playing with Palermo, where he scored 10 goals during the first season. His arrival in Turin sanctioned its consecration: today he ranks third in the scorers’ classification with 10 goals in the Italian Premier League, following an unforgettable second round last season, with 11 goals, which turned him into the best scorer in 2016 after Gonzalo Higuain. Turin is the perfect place to grow and a crucial role in Belotti’s professional development was played by Giampiero Ventura, who left a precious legacy to Mihajlovic. Ventura gave him his first position in the National Football team, and may take him even higher.

LEROY SANÈ

Leroy Sanè personal and professional story resembles a novel. Born 20 years ago to a Senegalese footballer father and a German gymnast mother, Sanè is the result of modern Germany’s social stratification, and sports a pop-star appeal mixed with an undeniable dose of talent, indeed his is considered to be one of the most pricey transfers in the Under 21 history, namely the transfer from Shalke 04 to Manchester City for 40 million euro. In Germany he was soon deemed one of Bundesliga’s crown jewels, thus joining the German National Team for Euro 2016. The transfer to City seems to have been strongly backed by Pep Guardiola in person and, although he is not playing on a regular basis, he knows that he can count on him. Leroy’s parents, Souleyman and Regina, have three children, all of them soccer players, but Leroy seems to be the perfect sum of his parents’ values and qualities: sacrifice and talent, success and humility, as well as, like those who were born, grown up or have spent some years in the Ruhr area, unbreakable resolve.

RASHFORD

Marcus Rashford is 19, 19 matches and 4 goals with Manchester United. His initially impressive track-record has undergone a physiological slow- down, considering that his 4 goals came in just 3 days. His debut in Europa League versus Midtjylland coincided with two goals between the 69th and 74th minutes that overturned the team’s initial disadvantage. Thanks to that match Rashford has become Manchester United’s youngest scorer in the European Cups, a record until then held by George Best. Who had then spoken of predestination began having some doubts, but the anecdotes and nuMbers speak for themselves. Rashford still lives with his mother Mel, attends school, studies and sits exams although he earns approximately 500 pounds per week, 38 thousand and 400 euro a year, that is 0,3% of Falcao’s income last year. Aged 18 he cannot be considered a special player yet, nor an overestimated one, but certainly a talented young player with a promising future, provided that he is granted the time to grow.

RENATO SANCHES

There has been much talk this summer about his age, but it all boiled down to “unfounded allegations”: Renato Sanches was truly born in 1997. Owing to his recent contract with Bayern Munich and his protagonist role at the European Cup with Portugal, expectations are already skyrocketing. Born to parents coming from two Portuguese colonies, Sanches grew up in one of the poorest district in Lisbon, Musgueira. That’s where he began kicking the ball in a team, Aguias da Musgueira, that uses soccer to keep kids away from the streets, as the saying goes. Aged 10 he was noticed by Benfica, which, according to the legend, paid Aguias 750 euro and 25 footballs. Nine years on, Bayern, paid 35 million euro plus a number of bonuses that could bring the gure up to 80 million euro to have him. Last year on 30th October, the day when he made his debut, Benfica ranked eighth and had just suffered a crushing defeat in the derby versus Sporting. Out of the following 26 matches (Renato Sanches played 23 of them), Benfica won 24, thereby winning both the championship and the National Cup. This summer Sanches has become the youngest Portuguese player to debut in a European Championship, thus tying the record previously held by Cristiano Ronaldo. Compared by many to Clarence Seedorf, not only owing to his plaits, the Portuguese mid elder combines quantity with quality, which, in modern-day football, can only be a bonus. This year may well be the year of his consecration.

RABIOT

Van Basten’s elegance, Vieira’s legs and Verratti’s nerve, as well as the next Parisian flag. That’s how Adrien Rabiot, born in 1995, has been dubbed. Born in the outskirts of Paris only 22 years ago, Adrien was soon noticed as one of the most promising players of the new French generation. A long string of injuries, as well as the difficult transfers that kept him glued to Psg, interrupted what seemed to be the beginning of his career as a soccer star. They say that he is dominated and controlled by his mother, as she negotiated his first professional contract and slams the phone down on each and every agent. It seems, though, that many of the negative rumors about him (and her) were born within Paris Saint-Germain’s inner circle. The turning point for Adrien Rabiot came during the 2012/2013 season. At the start of that year he played versus Barcelona in a friendly match (replaced, inter alia, by a debutting Marco Verratti), impressing illustrious spectators like Lilian Thuram. Despite that day’s positive outcome, he did not play much in the France Ligue 1. During the winter he insisted a lot to go away to play more often, and they accommodated him with the shirt of Toulouse. Everything went according to script: after about one month he became a regular, playing 12 matches out of 13. Back in Paris his ups and downs resumed. This season started very well, but a thigh injury stopped him again. We sincerely wish that Adrien Rabiot spreads his wings, at the cost of ying away from Paris. As charming as it may be, the capital city risks turning into his cage.

MARTIN ODEGAARD

Martin Ødegaard was born six months after the last Norwegian match in the nal stage of the World Cup, on 17th December 1998. Therefore, he is about to turn 17. He is the youngest debuting player in the history of the Norwegian championship. One would say that it is written that Martin will leave his coun- try, but he shares his father’s surname, who was a key player in his city’s team. His father, Hans Erik, was a mid elder like his son. Born in Drammen, he also started playing with Strømsgodset, where he played eleven seasons and 241 matches. Now he is Mjøndalen’s assistant coach, newly promoted in the Norwegian premier league, and his son’s manager (who, being a minor, cannot have an agent). He also runs an apparel store in Drammen. His uncle Thomas is the national football team’s physiotherapist. Following months in which Norway has attracted observers from all across the globe, Martin has chosen Real Madrid. He is now playing with the Blancos’ B team. Last year he was trained by Zinedine Zidane. He will learn the ropes and adapt to Spain and its football and, for a while, we won’t hear from him. He will bear in mind that he is 16, for a while. Then his time will come.

TIELEMANS

Born in 1997, Tielemans is technically gifted and perfectly ambidextrous. He debuted in the premier league aged 16, thus becoming part of a very exclusive club of champions like Paolo Maldini and Wayne Rooney. Tielemans’s precocity is extraordinary, as many of the champions that we know had to struggle a lot to achieve their present level of performance. To mention a few examples, Cristiano Ronaldo at the age of 18 had played less than 30 matches with top professional footballers. Tielemans played his first 35 matches with top-notch footballers before he was 17. That’s why he will stay a few more years with Anderlecht, his hometown’s team that he knows perfectly well and welcomed him when he was only 5 years old. In a National Team rife with big talents, the first in the FIFA ranking, Tielemans made his debut last June, versus Wales. There are no certainties about his future, but what is certain is that we are faced with a unique player in his generation, and we will be hearing about him for a long time.

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Federico Fellini influencer cubed

FELLINI E LA MODA- PERCORSI DI STILE DA CASANOVA A LADY GAGA
AUTOR|GIANLUCA LO VETRO
PUBLISHED BY|MONDADORI BRUNO

Brilliant, multifaceted, a true visionary: in a word he was a poet-dreamer who invented and re-invented the fairy-tale of classic Italian cinema, making it a mirror of his fervid, dizzying imagination, not unlike a stylized interpretation of our times. This was, and still is Federico Fellini, globally acclaimed not only for his exceptional skill in creating unforgettable films, but more importantly for his ability to build and manipulate the visual image in such a way strongly impacted viewers, and continues to inspire today’s Generation Y. So much so that if he were still alive today, in spite of himself, Fellini would be considered along with the formidable Giulietta Masina to be a great and indescribable “influencer,” to use the lexicon of the digital age. It would difficult to identify in just a few lines all the stylists, designers, artists and creatives who have been influenced by Fellini’s imaginative, dreamlike works, able to evoke entire worlds. One example lies in the forthcoming book Olympus, edited by Rosita Copioli (on shelves in 2017) which recalls Fellini’s archetypes of our imagination created in his distinctive, artistic and masterful way, with the freedom and critical intelligence of the great romanticist, and revealing the links between the filmmaker and the world of dress and society of his time and even more so, of ours. The hyperbole of Fellini’s protean genius is also the central subject of the 148-page book Fellini and Fashion – Style Paths from Casanova to Lady Gaga, written by journalist, scholar and university professor Gianluca Lo Vetro and published by Bruno Mondadori. Here, the author aims to point out connections between Fellini’s poetics and the current zeitgeist, based on a few of his iconic film references, thus demonstrating Fellini’s meaningful longevity. Examples of creative off-shoots building from Fellini’s aesthetic and societal vision range from mime Lindsay Kemp, who’s mannerisms influenced David Bowie‘s poses and gestures, the performance art of Leigh Bowery which provoked scandal outside the underground art scene of the 1980s, as well as the make-up and styling of models in one of Alexander McQueen‘s more memorable collections. “Fellini-ism,” without question, is all over John Galliano as well. The mad genius from Gibraltar has concocted collections clearly inspired by the director, most especially for Dior haute couture, sending cassock-clad models down the runway in a desecrating tribute to the unforgettable parade scene of cloaked priests in the film Roma. Fellini’s imagery and its sphere of influence are also quite pervasive in the psychedelic and over-the-top work of David LaChapelle, in films by Terry Gilliam and Paolo Sorrentino, as well as in the Dolce & Gabbana creative universe, which references both Anouk Aimée and her iconic little black dress along with the luscious curves of Anita Ekberg, the eternal embodiment of La Dolce Vita.

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5 SMART GADGETS

You love to travel, to discover new cities and the hottest places. At the first chance to take a holiday from the daily routine, you book a plane ticket, head out for an adventure. Or nearly. You know that technology and innovations are essential for your comfort and enjoyment while traveling. We’ve gathered a few tech toys just for you.

SleepPhones. It looks like a headband, created by the USA-based AcousticSheep. It plays the music of your choice to help you fall asleep: whether it’s a particular song or soothing sound. It is priced at $39,95 USD.

Lifestraw.Created by Swiss company Vestergaard Frandsen, it is a device that allows you to filter any water thanks to the presence of porous fibres the size of 0,02 micron. There are different models: from 26 Euros for the “personal” Lifestraw to 104 Euros for the “family” version, all available through the company’s webshop.

Scrubba.It is portable anD ecologically friendly washing machine, made up of a foldable waterproof sack that you fill with a small amount of water, a drop or two of detergent, and of course, your dirty laundry. Then just place Scrubba on top of a hard surface and scrub the closed bag from the outside. The product is sold by the Australian company of the same name on their official website for $55 AUD.

Modobag. Halfway between a trolley and a scooter Modobag is a motorized suitcase created by the eponymous Chicago-based start-up. A bag the traveller can drive simply by sitting astride it, it reaches a speed of 13 kilometres per hour and will be sold starting in early 2017 at a price of $995 USD (price varies per style).

Thermacell. Travelling in the coldest months of the year? Then you might enjoy the useful and original products to keep you warm, by USA-based Schawbel Technologies. Available online for around 65 Euros.

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THE SCENT OF A COGNAC

Two pillars of French culture, one truth: Frapin is an antique distillery that has tantalized the palates of cognac lovers for centuries, including the Sun King himself, Louis XIV, also specializing in olfactory delights for artistic fragrance lovers.
Among the oldest family lines still in living in France, for 20 generations Frapin has created its cognac- since 1270 to be precise- made to such perfection that in 1697 the Sun King, Louis XIV, bestowed upon Pierre Frapin a title of nobility. Heading the agency today is Jean-Pierre Cointreau, a son the Frapin family line and Max Cointreau, heir of the eponymous liquor dynasty. In 2002, the maison began to explore a new industry sector, at first seemingly quite different: perfumery. The result evolved over the years to include a line of fragrances inspired by the heritage of the brand, under the close supervision of David Frossard, Creative Director of Frapin Perfume, with whom spoke about fragrances and precious Millésime.

Cognac and perfume. What is the link?
Cognac and perfume are two pillars of French culture. In addition they have a similar distillation process. Cognac is a blend made from “maître de chai,” that mixes various notes to obtain the final flavour. A masterpiece created through taste, but also through the olfactory sense, much like how a perfumer designs a fragrance, thanks to his or her expert “nose.”

What is the oldest bottle of cognac preserved in the Fontpinot Castle?
We have several that are all over 100 years old.

 What is the best-seller?
The Frapin Millésime are recognized for being the finest Millésime and the finest liquors.

 Frapin Cognac pairs perfectly with…?
Chocolate and cigars for sure. Frapin Cognac has a warm aroma of vanilla, honey, nuts with floral aspects as well as fruity notes. The taste is soft and refined, but at the same time round and potent without being too strong.

 Among the perfumes, is there one inspired by a particular cognac from the maison?
Yes, “1270,” inspired by a legendary wine that was used at the beginning of the 20th century to create a cognac called “La Folle Blanche.” The name of the fragrance, however, is the date in which the Frapin family, one of the oldest family lines in France, settled in the Charente region. Among the family ancestry is the famous French writer François Rabelais, who wrote the acclaimed romance series The Life of Gargantua and Pantagruel. In the castle there is still a cuvée that bears his name and his image inspired another one of our fragrances, “l’Humaniste.”

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IN CONVERSATION WITH AARON DIAZ

TOTAL LOOK ALL SAINTS

From TV serials to cinema, going through music, the Mexican actor reveals himself as an eclectic artist.

You are an authentic multitasking person, from acting to singing. When and where did you learn to do all these different roles?
I like to express myself in different ways… acting… singing… painting… writing… They are all forms of expression and I can’t do jut one thing. For as long as I can remember, I’ve gotten  bored of doing the same thing so I always like to alternate between one and another.

Your mother is Irish American and your father Mexican, how does this mix make an influence on you? Which are your favorite cities and reveries of these places?
Where we come from means a lot… Where you grow up also influences a person. I feel blessed for having the parents I have and having such a mix of genes. Growing up I spent most my adolescence in a beautiful Mexican Town called San Miguel de Allende and then starting in my teens on I lived in Palo Alto in Northern California. I couldn’t tell you what my favorite cities are because Mexico and the US both have amazing cities, while Ireland is green, which in my book means it is beautiful.

You played for long time in many different soap operas. From popular teen drama “Clase 406” to “Talisman”  and many more. Looking back at these series which are your favorite roles? What would you change?
The first character I ever played will always be of special importance to me. People still talk about this character all the time. It left a mark on the fans and definitely left a mark on me. That was fourteen years ago. I have never stopped working from that day on. That’s the character that gave me the opportunity to build a career.

Which are your favorite directors inspiring for you and you would love to work with?
There are lots of great directors out there. Impossible to pick just a few but I’m really proud of the films the Top Mexican directors are doing. I absolutely love Italian cinema as well- obviously there are many classic Italian films and directors. Love Sorrentino’s work, it’s fabulous.

You have been nominated among the sexiest man in the world. What is sexy for you? And a suggestions for all the men for being charming?
Sexy and being charming for me is being yourself. Being a good person, being kind to everyone, being transparent and being honest.

How did the OVS underwear campaign come about?
I met Bruno, the owner of Brave Models, and I told him I wanted to be in an underwear campaign. A couple months later I was in London shooting the campaign. Just like that.

When did you meet Lola for the first time what did you think of her? When did you decide to marry her?
When I saw Lola for the firs time I was like “wow”, with my mouth wide open, and I couldn’t take my eyes of her. I decided I was going to marry her that exact moment.

How is your typical day like?
Every day is different no matter if I’m filming or if I’m in vacation. The only difference between when if working on vacation is that when I’m in vacation I don’t wear shoes and I’m usually in the ocean.

What cannot be missing in your bag when you travel?
Passport

How would you define your style?
Unique (laughs).

Beside singing, which are your passions?
Sports. Everything that has to do with the outdoors.

Your next projects and dreams for 2017?
To keep having fun and enjoying myself. Projects come at the perfect moment, you just have to be ready when they come.

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UP IN THE SKY

Sporty vibes and technical apparel to champion in the city.

Photographer| Julien Boudet (Bleu Mode)
Stylist| Giorgia Cantarini
Model| Thomas Barry @2morrow models
Stylist Assistant| Orsola Amadeo
Photographer Assistant| Andrea Benedetti

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TAILORED TRAVEL: NEW WAYS OF TRAVELLING

CANADA

“Same beach, same sea” as the famous song goes, yet today few vacationers still harbour this traditional attitude toward travel. While in the past, the first step to taking a trip was to head over to a travel agency and be tantalised by their sparkling brochures, now more than ever before, travellers read, prepare, research, discover and book their trips. All, pretty much, autonomously.
It is a phenomenon that has impacted the travel industry for a number of years now, as travellers tired of the same two weeks of the same old summer vacation, now have all the means at their fingertips to custom design their own travel itineraries. Through the web, which reigns king for travel booking, customrs can discover new ways and means of travelling, all completely tailored made to their desires. For travel junkies, that may translate to a new experience, instead of a simple break from the daily grind, whether it’s couchsurfing, volunteer travel, homestay exchanges or a fusion of these via AirBNB or high-end hoteliers like English vacation rental site Onefinestay (www.onefinestay.com). There’s even genealogytourism (travel in search of discovering one’s ancestry and family origins), eco tourism and local-tourism.
In this vein, there are increasingly more means through which to bridge the gap between the vacationer and the destination’s small, local businesses, offering the possibility to create extraordinary travel itineraries. As such, “travel like a local,” is the motto of the creators of travel site Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com).
In addition to the already famous Cart’Orange (www.cartorange.com), i Viaggi di Atlantide (www.iviaggidiatlantide.it) and Earth (www.earthviaggi.it), a new player on the scene that has been experiencing extraordinary growth is Evaneos (www.evaneos.it), a French start-up created in 2009 by two friends that defied the standards of the current market. We spoke with Eric, one of the two founders, who explained how, just as a tailor custom creates a bespoke blazer, Evaneos provides a service to custom design a vacation from scratch.

What is Evaneos?
It is the first marketplace that connects travellers with expert local tour guides who know their own city well. We wanted to create a platform that facilitates connections between people, travellers who want to discover a country or city at their own pace and according to their own desires, with professionals in the travel industry who know their town like the back of their hand, and thus can offer a personalized service.

What is the difference between a tourist and a traveller?
A traveller, when he sees a street, wants to go off and explore it; a tourist, instead, cannot, because his group is waiting for him.

The ideal trip?
It consists of knowing how to create moments and situations that leave us speechless, that let us discover something we hadn’t expected, or meet someone new, or see things that open our eyes.

Why is it so important to connect with locals to organize a holiday?
Once a traveller organizes a trip with a true expert, he or she will never want to turn back. The local guide is the equivalent of having a friend who gives advice on where to find the hidden gems of the city. In addition, he or she is also a professional whose job it is to individually tailor each travel experience, aside from acting like a guardian angel who will make sure that everything goes as it should.

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A DAY WITH YOUR GENTLEMAN

Today’s true gentleman, with Marco Cartasegna

Do gentlemen still exist today? Or are they simply a legacy from the past? We asked the founder of the blog “YourGentleman”Marco Cartasegna, who, after a successful career as a model and studying International Management, returns to his first passion: fashion. Thus, in 2015 he launched his blog, where he writes about his own personal style, elegance and his original creations.

“The gentleman today,” says Marco, “doesn’t exist as he did in the past century. Society has evolved, for better or for worse I’m not sure, but it certainly has changed. In this context, the new gentleman should often as possible to maintain ties to the values of the past, both in the most significant aspects of life and in everyday actions. He should always keep his word, not accumulate debts, respect women, even with small gestures like opening the car door for his better half…”

What are the modern gentleman’s passions and style?

“A gentleman’s passions can be varied, the important thing is to do what he loves with elegance and simplicity. He can even be elegant while playing rugby. The gentleman’s style is totally personal in his daily life, but he must respect etiquette when it is required. For example, it is unacceptable to show up at a black tie event in an “alternative” look.”

In light of speaking today’s gentleman, Marco interprets for MANINTOWN three looks from the Herno Fall/Winter 2016-2017 Collection. As Marco says, “the contemporary gentleman should adapt himself to the challenges of modern society by keeping his essence deeply rooted in the values of the past that inspire every daily act.” A philosophy in line with that of Herno, a company established on the shores of Lake Maggiore as far back as 1948. The brand skillfully combines tradition and innovation, intuition and creativity in every garment to accompany today’s chameleon-like man throughout every moment of the day.

For a walk in the park with his dachshund, Marco has chosen the classic 7 denier ultralight bomber. This down jacket combines functionality and aesthetic style: its padding is half fine goose down and half technical down, which adds waterproof protection, essential for the harsh winter. The insertion of goose down prevents excessive puffiness by assuring a slim fit and by enhancing the shape without adding visual weight. The collection is available in a range of energetic colors, of which Marco has chosen bright ochre. The perfect garment for gentlemen passionate about sports and the outdoors.

THE NEW FACES OF ITALIAN CINEMA

A round-up of faces and expressions of the new generation of Italian actors, captured for our readers in a style and music-driven photo shoot. Presenting a series of fashion images from formalwear to streetwear shot to the music of our nine protagonists’ favourite songs. MANINTOWN photographed the looks, investigating the actors’ passions and inspirations, representing a new Italian identity within film, television and theatre.

GIULIO BERANEK

What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future?
I hope that in my future will be more film. Coming up I will be on the big screen in the comedy Laciati Andare (Let Yourself Go) by Francesco Amato, with Toni Servillo, and Una Questione Privata (A Private Question) by the Taviani brothers alongside Luca Marinelli. Airing soon on TV is Tutto Puo Succedere 2 (Anything Can Happen 2).

What are your passions and how do you live them out?
I play football when I can manage not to hurt myself, and I like to write- two passions that help me relax my body and my mind.

A must-have garment in your wardrobe?
Socks.

Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit?
My favourite place to be is at the beach.

Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“Love Will Tear Us Apart” by Joy Division)?
The song I chose for the shooting was the first song I could think of.

RIMAU RITZBERGER

What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future?
I just finished filming a short film about a character in Sardinia with the director Enrico Pau.

What are your passions and how do you live them out?
I find refuge in literature or in film. Plus I also enjoy chess and running races.

A must-have garment in your wardrobe?
A basic shirt.

Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit?
The mountains.

Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“Toccata and Fugue in D Minor” by Bach)?
Toccata and Fugue is linked to my family, to my father in particular, who plays the organ.

ALESSANDRO SPERDUTI

What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future?
At the moment I am filming La Musica del Silenzio (The Music of Silence) with the director Michael Radford about the life of Andrea Bocelli, with Antonio Banderas, Ennio Fantastichini and other big stars. Coming out shortly on Rai 1 is Il Confine (The Border) by Carlo Carlei in which I play an irredentist in WWI.

What are your passions and how do you live them out?
I am passionate about soundtracks and technology, and I try to combine those two things through my hobby of creating music on the computer. I love sport, from going to the gym to rock climbing to snowboarding

A must-have garment in your wardrobe?
A black coat.

Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit?
My ideal location would be a place with a lake among the mountains, like Lake Matheson in New Zealand, or Lake Braies in South Tyrol.

Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“New Born” by Muse)?
It is a mysterious and powerful song, very inspiring, and reminds me of a difficult time in my life. I heard it played live at a festival in England.

FRANCESCO DI RAIMONDO

What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future?
I’m busy both with theatre and television. In theatre, I just acted in La Belva (The Beast) by Paolo Scotti, and a part in The Stranger by and about Orson Welles. On the small screen, I played Federico, a clarinet teacher on the series Romanza Famigliare (Family Romance), directed by Francesca Archbugi with Giancarlo Giannini and Vittoria Puccini that will air soon on Rai 1.

What are your passions and how do you live them out?
I love music, I am on my fifth year studying clarinet at the Santa Cecilia Conservatory, I love dance, singing and sports like tennis, basketball and swimming.

A must-have garment in your wardrobe?
I’m always wearing jackets, which I buy in Paris, and scarves.

Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit?
The place for my body: the beaches of Zanzibar. The place for my mind: the library at the School of Philosophy at La Sapienza, from where I did my studies.

Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“Unnatural Selection” by Muse)?
It is connected to a vacation I took in Brazil.

ERNESTO D’ARGENIO

What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future?
I’m currently on the set for the second season of Non Uccidere (Don’t Kill) co-staring in two episodes, and I am waiting to hear about working on a mini series by Riccardo Milani called Di Padre in Figlia (From Father to Daughter), where I would play a fashion photographer from the ’80s alongside co-star Matilde Gioli. In the meantime I am working on two stories for film and I am in talks about a piece for the theatre.

What are your passions and how do you live them out?
I love to get lost among the streets, especially in a new city, following where inspiration leads me. Usually I travel with others, but often I find myself travelling alone without a set itinerary. Recently I’ve also become interested in motorbikes.

A must-have garment in your wardrobe?
A great jacket that feels elegant but also free and relaxed.

Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit?
The streets.

Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“Lust for Life” by Iggy Pop)?
It makes me think of my apprentice year and my life in England when I was 19 and worked as a waiter earning 800 Euros a month.

BRANDO PACITTO

What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future?
Between film and theatre, I’m indifferent- I’ll choose whichever project excites me the most. I am writing a lot and filming a few small projects.

What are your passions and how do you live them out?
Lots of music, from Pink Floyd to Bon Iver, from Chet Faker to Moderat, every genre; and also sport, I like to surf.

A must-have garment in your wardrobe?
A black turtleneck

Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit?
The sea.

Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“505” by the Arctic Monkeys)?
Yes, it is connected to someone who is still part of my heart, regardless of everything.

DAVIDE IACOPINI

What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future?
I am filming the second season of Non Uccidere (Don’t Kill) on Rai 3. In a few months I will begin another Rai programme and within the end of the year it should be in cinemas.

What are your passions and how do you live them out?
I have been doing rock climbing for some time. When I can, I read, cook and play the harmonica.

A must-have garment in your wardrobe?
I like technical materials, those that keep you warm without being encumbering. Also a great wool coat.

Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit?
The mountains, the valley around Mont Blanc in particular. Facing that giant king relaxes me.

Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“I Heard It Through the Grapevine” covered by Creedence Clearwater Revival)?
It reminds me of the grape harvests I did as a kid. And it’s one of the few songs I know how to play on the guitar.

GIUSEPPE MAGGIO

What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future?
In January I have a TV series coming out on Canale 5, and another project I am working on in France that I cannot discuss. I hope my future brings both cinema and theatre because I love doing them both.

What are your passions and how do you live them out?
I practice CrossFit, an American workout based on combining various exercises, increasing in intensity. I love the theatre for understanding what is the culture environment of the moment. Plus I like to write- I am finishing my first book- and more than anything, I love to travel

A must-have garment in your wardrobe?
A studded black leather jacket

Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit?
Salento. It’s a place where I go to find myself, and my roots.

Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“Every Rose Has It’s Thorn” by Poison)?
It reminds me of a past love story of mind with an unhappy ending.

LEONARDO PAZZAGLI

What is your next professional adventure? Can you give us a preview? Will there be more TV/film or theatre in your future?
I’m waiting to hear back on a few calls, so being superstitious as I am, I won’t say. However, more cinema.

What are your passions and how do you live them out?
I love to play football. I read a lot of narratives. I love hiking in the mountains. A few days’ excursion in the Alps to escape detoxes me from the chaos of Rome.

A must-have garment in your wardrobe?
A plain black tee shirt, it goes with everything.

Your favourite place to go to relax your mind, body or spirit?
One place that both relaxes and stimulates me are public libraries; in the centre of Rome there are some marvellous libraries.

Is the song that you have chosen to play during your photo shoot connected to anything in particular (“Karma Police” by Radiohead)?
It is connected to the sabbatical year I took during high school to go work in London, the melody reminds me of my thoughts and experiences during that time.

Photographer| Roberta Krasnig
Stylist| Stefania Sciortino
Hair| Rockhair
Grooming| Ilaria Di Lauro
Photographer Assistant| Sean Ferritto
Stylist Assistant| Giulia Pandolfi
Location| Mia Visual Studio

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MARCO BIANCHI: THE SOCIAL HEALTH FANATIC

His dazzling smile is proof that being on a diet doesn’t equal feeling sadness and deprivation. In fact, his beautiful and delicious dishes would make anyone drool at first sight.  He’s Marco Bianchi, born in 1978, chef, scientist, writer for the Umberto Veronesi Foundation, author of numerous health books and a TV personality, who genuinely enjoys sharing his true love of good cooking with his social media followers, many of whom try his recipes and then enthusiastically post their results on social networks.  His sincerity and simplicity wins over whomever he meets, including us. We interviewed him to ask for his precious advice on following a balanced lifestyle, yet one without too many sacrifices.

People assume mostly women watch their weight and their diets. Yet you are an example that men as well are becoming more sensitive to these matters. What pushed you to adopt a healthier lifestyle?

Basically, it was my course of study: it led me to become much more careful about what I eat. Being in close contact with the world of scientific research, seeing year after year, slide after slide, the analyses conducted on patients gave me pause. It made me decide to stop how I was eating and to make a conscious choice to live a healthier and more balanced lifestyle. This change first started as an experiment on myself, then it started catching the interest of those around me.

We know you’re a health fanatic. How much does it affect your personal style choices?
I made a choice not to be defined as vegan, because I consume animal proteins, such as fish and cheese. I just don’t eat meat and meat products, such as sausages and salami, but everything else I eat in moderation. My choices are dictated by the careful selection of the farms and how products are sold: from cheese to fresh caught fish, I always try to opt for the best. This also means being able to distinguish which companies produce well and care about the quality of raw materials.

Wellness, health and eco-design are the main ingredients of the Healthy Box. How did your collaboration with SKAKO and Essent’ial begin?
It started a bit by chance. I was already buying Essent’ial products, due to their sustainability. Together we decided to give life to the Healthy Box, and SKAKO took care of the creative part. I became the face of this beautiful health project.

You’re a sportsman, often seen in running shoes and a track suit, engaging in various events devoted to health and prevention. In your everyday life, however, what do you like to wear?  Did the fact that you became a celebrity change your lifestyle?
I’m always in motion, especially if I can’t make it to formal workouts like CrossFit, which I really enjoy doing. In that case, I like to get out and about, my gym is the stairs or the city, walking everywehere. I walk a lot, an average of 10-12 km per day, and for me there’s no such thing as elevators, so, whoever comes along with me knows he has to dress comfortably.  Sweating once a day, for at least 20 minutes, is a must. Becoming well-known hasn’t changed me, I’m still me. I definitely get stopped more often, I’m asked for advice, but in general I act as I always have, no difference. Luckily my followers love me, so I have great interaction with whomever I meet on the street, at the supermarket, in a store. It’s always a pleasure to be enriched by my community’s kind words.

The “MANINTOWN” man is multifaceted. What is your advice to how he can pursue a healthy lifestyle day by day, without too many sacrifices?
Imagining each meal as a complete dish is a key rule for everyone. That means the dish should be comprised of 50% plants, such as fruits and vegetables, 25% whole grains and 25% protein, to be alternated among low-fat cheese, fish, dried fruits and legumes, lots of legumes. I don’t mentioning meat because I don’t consume any, but obviously meat could be a part of this 25%. Beyond that, I’d advise a fresh juice, fruit and salad at least once a day. Dried fruit makes a great snack good for every day, especially for those who practice sport and exercise; it is a heart saver. Plus the ideal recipe for health also includes exercise and physical activity.

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THE WANDERLUSTER

A playful mix and match of prints and micro patterns define the new formal look.

Photographer| Pier Nicola Bruno
Stylist| Giorgia Cantarini
Grooming| Barbara Bonazza, Hmbattaglia Agency
Model| Lucas Dambros @ilovemodelsmanagement
Stylist Assistant| Orsola Amadeo
Photographer Assistant| Lorenzo Formicola
Post Production| Elisa Trapani

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VINYL, MON AMOUR

GALACTIC SUPERMARKET RECORDS

No longer simply for fans of that clean, crisp sound; no longer for the nostalgics who cannot let go of the past, not even for the fashionistas who will buy anything just to keep up with the trends. The end of 2016 marked the first time in history that sales of vinyl records in the UK surpassed those of digital album downloads and CDs. Coincidence? Apparently not. It seems instead that vinyl itself, for several important record labels and for the youngest generation of listeners, has become the pathway toward a return to genuine music, with its liquid smooth sound, unmistakable hum and flavour all its own, and albums worthy of collecting. Yet for some musicians, digital technology is still supreme for achieving the perfect sound. Among whom, for example, is Neil Young, proponent of a higher quality digital sound via Kickstarter (in a campaign raising over $5 million USD) for Pono, a digital music reader with audio resolution 30 times higher than that of an MP3 player.
However, for some years now many artists have begun to bring the big black disc back to the forefront: Daft Punk, Adele, and Ed Sheeran for example, or Jack White who sold over 40,000 copies in a week of his 33 13 rpm LP. Several big names of the international music scene, more and more frequently, have chosen to publish their new albums both in digital and analog forms, some even opting for only the second: In fact, rumours have leaked that The Smiths are set to release a new 45 record that will contain two never-been-published tracks and a demo of “The Boy With the Thorn in His Side” along with a new version of “The Rubber Ring,” a true treat for fans of the band.
Although there are still sceptics, the recent surge in success of vinyl records is increasingly evident, enough so as to incite new projects, including in Italy, and to have given rise to new commercial initiatives. Among which is Vinylify, a Dutch start-up which thought to take the old school technology, ie the classic vinyl record, and create something romantically democratic: a service in which customers can send a mix of their own favourite digital song files to be turned into a brand new, shiny black personalised vinyl record collectable. After all, if in 2014 Pink Floyd‘s “The Endless River” was the fastest-selling record since 1997 and if today Led Zeppelin still sell records, it goes without saying that vinyl presents an optimal long-term business plan, not just a passing fad or a trip down memory lane.
Speaking of memory lane, not new to the vinyl scene is Vinilmania in Milan who for the last 30 years has hosted a twice-yearly exhibition (now in its 84th edition) that continues to be the gold standard event for passionate collectors of first editions and rare records; as well as production house Phono Press, also Italian, which has been manufacturing records for 30 years, and recently had to move its headquarters in order to handle the increase in demand (from 1.000/2.000 discs a day to a production today of over 6.000), or the virtual community that exists through digital platforms like VinylHub, mapping out record stores around the world, and highlighting concerts and events linked to the world of vinyl: In short, it is a declaration of love akin to that of the tireless defenders of the printed word.

WORLD VYNIL SPOT
SUBWAX BCN, BARCELLONA
Not only a record store, but also a record label, distribution channel and music agency. Specializing in electronic music, reggae and dub, this small music paradise in Barceloneta also houses around 10.000 second-hand records.

 RM360, SEOUL
Opened in 2011, this small shop is a landmark destination due to its varied collection of second-hand records that range from jazz to soul, funk and ’80s hip-hop. There is also a section dedicated to Korean music and a selection of new discs, mostly hip-hop and modern funk.

GALACTIC SUPERMARKET RECORDS, BERLIN
With an inventory of around 35.000 records, this shop in Berlin offers a journey through every genre of music. Fortunately it is organized by section, artist name and sub-genre. Not to be missed: the loft section.

CARBONO, LISBONA
Inaugurated in 1983, by now it is a staple. With a clear attitude for the second-hand, the store’s shelves are stocked with a little bit of everything, though indie music and rock are heavily represented. Don’t forget to head down to the basement level.

 RECKLESS RECORDS, CHICAGO
This sound mecca has London roots and a strong presence in the retail music scene for the last two decades. Here you’ll find rare titles, recommendations and instructions on how to acquire the best of the best in music history.

BOUNCE AUDIO, MELBOURNE
New to the Australian scene, this store is the destination for shoppers looking for second hand copies of DJ collections, especially funk and soul music.

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AN AMERICAN IN MODENA

JACKET|MV 50° COLLECTION

He unleashed a true frenzy when, after the recent Presidential election in the USA, he tweeted a plea to marry an Italian girl and become, as such, a de facto Italian. Undoubtedly witty and humorous, the American volleyball player Maxwell Holt is also gutsy; fans of the sport remember the most recent Olympics where in the game against Italy he heroically blocked the shots of his direct rival Ivan Zaytsev.
Holt is not only the captain of the USA national team, but in 2016 he was also awarded the title of US Player of the Year, all while playing in Italy for one of the most loved and admired championship squads, Modena Volley. The athlete caught our attention. Checking out his social media accounts, for example Instagram, we see he has other passions besides volleyball, such as music, thus we decided to interview him and make him the feature of a photoshoot in pure MANINTOWN style. Welcome to the world of Maxwell Holt.

How did you start playing volleyball and when have you decided that it would become your job?
I started playing volleyball when I was very young. I started playing just for fun and up until I was 15 I didn’t really play at a competitive level. I also played other sports like basketball baseball and soccer.

You play in an Italian team. What have you learned to love of our country?
The first thing that you realize when coming from the USA to play in Italy is how much volleyball is loved here. We don’t have a volleyball league in the U.S. (just college) so to be able to come here and play at the highest level in the best league in front of the best fans in the world is amazing. Of course there are many other beautiful things about Italy that is nonexistent in the U.S. The country itself is breathtaking and every city is rich in history. I can’t forget the food. Especially here in Modena is world class.

Can you give a suggestion to those who start playing football for the first time?
Divertirti! It’s a beautiful sport and truly a team effort every time you play.

The 2016 Olympic Games. Which is the memory that touches you the most and is there a moment, a feeling or a particular anecdote of this edition that you want to share with us?Winning the bronze medal is a memory that will forever stay with me. The whole olympic experience itself is truly incredible. Being on the greatest stage with the greatest athletes in the world and just feeling that energy around the city of Rio was the best experience of my life.

The most important moment in your carreer?
Rio!

Talking about style, what can’t lack in your closet?
I have a bit of a problem with shoes. For as long as I can remember I have been crazy about shoes. It started with just sneakers, like the latest pair of Air Jordans, and has evolved to many different types of kicks.

What is synonymous with style, according to you?
I am a fan of simple style. Probably 80 percent of my wardrobe is either black or dark grey. It is rare to see me in a flashy color.

You have been the protagonist of a precise media event. We’re wondering what does touch you in a woman, which characteristics would have your dream girl?
(Laughing) Well I guess the most important quality in my ‘dream girl’ would be that she is a kind person with a good heart. Then she has to love music and would be ideal if she played and instrument. I’m not so picky.

Which passions do you have, other than volleyball? Checking your Instagram, you seem very connected to music…
Yes I love music. I have been playing guitar for over 10 years and I would say that is my passion other than volleyball obviously. My favorite thing in the world is going to see my favorite artists or bands live in concerts. After volleyball I would love to do something involving music somehow.

Your role models, your personal eroes?
My mother and father. I’m incredibly thankful to have had the two of them work as hard as they have to provide me with this life. I would never be where I am without their love and support.

Do you have a dream, a project you haven’t achieved yet and that you want to realize?
In the world of volleyball, I want to win an Italian championship, a champion’s league title, and an Olympic Gold medal. So I guess you could say my journey hasn’t quite finished yet!

Photographer| Michele Ercolani
Stylist| Stefano Guerrini with Orsola Amadeo
Talent| Maxwell Holt
Stylist Assistant| Chiara Troiani

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BACCHUS, TOBACCO…& VENUS

It is an ingredient used in many men’s fragrances because it gives any composition a warm and masculine, yet refined note. We’re talking about tobacco, which adds to fragrances that extra touch because it lends itself to various olfactory interpretations. It can be “sweet, ” combined with fruity, floral notes, or those of honey and vanilla, “dirty” thanks to the addition of black pepper or other pungent spices, leather or musk, and finally “smoky” tinted with incense or scorched wood. In any case, its effect is hard to achieve with other raw material, and this makes tobacco much loved amongst fragrance designers, who also use it in the creation of women’s Asian inspired scents- but that’s another story.

Million Privé by Paco Rabanne has an effervescent and spicy opening, rich with notes of mandarin and cinnamon. The heart is enriched with Nargile tobacco and myrrh. The base notes are warm and sensual, with a mix of patchouli, and Tonka bean absolute.

Tobacco by Franck Boclet opens with top notes of ginger and tobacco leaves, softened by the fruity sweetness of plum. The heart reinforces the smoky notes of the tobacco thanks to clove and Tonka bean, united by cedar wood. The base has warm, amber and woody notes, with a touch of vanilla and musk.

Tobacco Oud by Tom Ford. The harmony in this fragrance found its inspiration in the Arabian “dokha,” a traditional blend of spices, herbs, flowers and tobacco with an intoxicating and narcotic aroma, added together with the intense and animalistic notes of oud.

Tobacco Nuit by Atelier Cologne Collection Orient is a cologne in absolute form, 20% concentrated, which opens with the fresh and spicy notes of clementine, coriander and cumin. A smoky heart of labdanum, incense and tobacco flowers, that closes with enveloping notes of patchouli, wood, cedar and Tonka bean.

Tabarome Millesime by Creed draws inspiration from Winston Churchill’s fragrance of choice, also by Creed. Tabarome is a combination of the words “tobacco” and “aroma” and calls to mind the scene of cigars, high back leather chairs and the scent of brandy swirling through an exclusive British gentlemen’s club.

Les Jeux Sont Faits by Jovoy Paris is inspired by French film noir of the 1960s, that of Jean Gabin and Lino Ventura. The fragrance opens with head notes of angelica and gin: aromatic, fresh and dry. In the heart, chords recalling the smell of a smoky gambling hall: bitter tobacco leaves and cumin. The base is a captivating blend of patchouli and a warm and fruity note of vanilla and labdanum reminiscent of Cuban rum.

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WISH LIST 2017

Must-haves, or objects of desire, if you prefer, are those accessories, garments and design objects that we see each season on the runways or in shop windows, full of appeal and eye-catching for all respectable fashionistas. I have selected 15, or rather just over 15, must-haves for spring/summer 2017.
I confess, I’ve chosen them based on my own personal taste, selecting what struck me, what I would have wanted for myself, without any real rhyme or reason. Only when I finished I did notice that all my selections amounted to a desire for colour, positivity and entertainment. There is a need to smile and a certain sense of lightness. Perhaps in response to the times we are living in, I chose, unconsciously, to seek out humour and joie de vivre. I hope you will also enjoy my must-haves.

1 GREENERY

Green is Pantone’s 2017 Colour of the Year. Why not choose a few design objects in this shade? Starting with the “Birth On The Dancefloor” rug, knotted by hand in Nepal from Himalayan wool and silk by Marta Bagante and produced by the company cc-tapis. The enveloping armchair “Amburgo,” produced by Baxter and the stylish “Beetle Chair,” by the company GUBI designed by Gam Fratesi are both sold by Spotti in Milan. And if instead, you just can’t stay in the house, there’s the CS Bamboo bicycle, which you’ll find at Tokyobike, also in Milan.

2 T-SHIRT
At times the fashion world seems to take itself a little too seriously, while I tend to appreciate humour and irony, like that demonstrated by Andrea Pompilio who, in his Spring/Summer 2017 collection presents a sweatshirt with a very pointed question:   “Who the f… is Andrea Pompilio?” I want it now… and you?

3 SOFT DAY PACK
In the spirit of travel, even when it is more urban than outdoor, the backpack has returned with full force. I like the Marni Soft Day Pack, which utilises a snap buckle top closure which allows you to carry it also as a handbag. I chose it in the Shutter print, with decisive graphic motifs that alternate red, grey and black, almost like a new modern camouflage.

4 SANDALS
They will be on everyone’s feet when the warm months arrive. A true must-have: Prada sandals with rubber soles, contrast bi-colour ribbon and rubber and fabric velcro.

5 SLIP-ON
Both are stars- the brand’s logo and its sinuous, sensual graphics all the way down to the sole, give me Bally SS17 slip-ons.

6 JACKET
I like to support young designers, and among those is the noteworthy Matteo Lamandini. From his Spring/Summer 2017 collection I chose this striped dress, stripes being a sure-fire trend of the season, here which are mixed with a dash of eccentricity and the designer’s sporty/street style.

7 BIKER
A studded leather jacket in spring? Of course! It’s perfect for the cooler evenings, like this one in suede by Antony Morato. And then, let’s face it, how much does it make us feel cool? A bit like Marlon in “The Wild One”, or like Nicholas Cage in “Wild at Heart”.

8 THREE-PIECE SUIT
If I have to be in a three-piece suit, it might as well be light-hearted. Leo Colaciccio with his line LC23 often brings us inspiration from the world of comics, this time it’s Japan’s turn, with manga references and a printed robot the epitome of those we grew up with on TV.

9 DUFFEL BAG
Gucci‘s “Neo-Vintage” duffle bag collection is absolutely sensational, with hand-embellished fabric in coral snake and flower motifs, green-re-d-green web details with black leather handles and piping. For those who, like me, refuse to carry a classic office brief case.

10 HOMME PLISSE
Culture and fashion: a combination that I always find winning, which some designers express impressively well. An example is the HOMME PLISSÉ collection by Issey Miyake for S/S 2017, the Spring Series which draws inspiration from artistic currents Shunga and Ukiyo-e, which became widespread in Japanese society during the Edo period. The result is clothing for the contemporary man, comfortable and suitable for everyday, that reworks tailoring and traditional Japanese concepts.

11 KNITWEAR
Winner of the menswear edition of Who’s on Next 2015, Vittorio Branchizio is being said to be the new Italian talent to keep under the radar. His knitwear, high quality crafted, always leaves you astonished for the multi references approach to his design. Easy to fall in love with the new spring proposals, where the playful graphics mix and matches revisit the classic pinstripe suit also inspired by the artist Frank Stella.

12 TRENCH
I haven’t forgotten the (gentle)men dear to MANINTOWN. This spring he will be inseparable from this outerwear piece: the raincoat. And not to mention colour, this Canali double-breasted trench in 150s wool, worn over a wool-silk delavè suit, in a nice bright orange.

13 POCKET WATCH
It’s not necessarily colourful, but this watch by Bulova definitely sparkles. A super elegant pocket watch for the modern dandy. Steel case and chain, with a Daipason logo, round face in silver with date stamp, analog 3 sphere quartz movement and waterproof up to thirty metres.

 

14 DECOMPOSE LIGHT
The family of aluminium lamps titled “Decomposé Light” by Di Artemide, designed by Atelier Oï, remind me of streamers. They are capable of animating the space with colour and their playful geometric forms, which interact with the light creating subtle shadows.

15 DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET
The double-breasted jacket has made a great comeback to the men’s wardrobe in recent seasons. We like a classic black version, but downplayed with a touch of romantic colour. This one by Christian Pellizzari will be perfect for any cool party on a late Spring evening.

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TRENDS A PORTER

Our suggestions to step into the new season with great style

Photographer| Stefania Paparelli
Stylist| Nicholas Galletti
Stylist Assistant| Alexandre Roy
Grooming| Josefin Gligic
Casting| Eleonora Laureti @simobart casting
Models| Paul Alexandre Haubtmann @ marilyn; Djavan Mandoula @ success; Sacha Celaya @ 16men; Norman Grossklaus @ success
Location| Hotel Particulier 6 rue Tiquetonne

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PFW: BERLUTI

You may have noticed that the spirit of Berluti and the cult of the “patina” in particular is focused on what time can bring to life?
No sooner was Haider Ackermann appointed as Creative Director at Berluti than he was struck by the idea of fashion which could develop over time.
As he was working on this collection, he was permanently conscious of the way in which a well-made pair of trousers or a coat become more attractive as they develop a patina which makes them more desirable and precious to us. Haider’s mood board included words such as “Trash”, “Dark” and “Wood” and focused on the concept of a man waking at dawn after a wealth of nocturnal experiences. Certain paintings by Francis Bacon provided the inspiration for the unusual colour combinations which Haider had in mind. Blues and powder pink hues clashing with burgundy for example. Taking these basic concepts as his starting point, Haider Ackermann designed this collection as a list of key pieces: You will find a black leather aviator jacket with just a hint of red crocodile on the collar lapels, and a red lining. There is also a bomber jacket, made entirely out of fluffy nylon on the inside with a grey cashmere outer.There is a soft, smooth velvet tuxedo in royal blue which is suitable for everyday wear. A cashmere sweater with a large roll neck, made out of a single piece with just two seams, is like a second skin. There are lace-up boots in an emerald green which is almost black, but still green enough to make a real statement. There are exquisite yet casual bags. But first and foremost, we are inviting men and women alike to play a part in this show by imaging what exquisite patina these clothes would soon develop if you owned them.

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PFW: ISSEY MIYAKE

Listen to the savage call. This collection combines the comfort of the urban outfit with the outdoor spirit of trekking and the patterns that arise from the natural energy. Nowadays, men yearn for a new relationship with elegance, that integrates the sensitivity for the natural fabrics. By continuing to pursue the aesthetics of the functionality, ISSEY MIYAKE MEN proposes a workwear which includes the essence of the forest as a view through a spectrum of blending colors.

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Alexander McQueen: A/W 2017 MENSWEAR

Oscar Wilde Venue, travelling from London to Paris: a sort of path in the path, that revived the Alexander McQueen A/W 2017 collection, on the steps of one of the most beloved writers of literature, the firts and real dandy, a style icon: with his look on more rigorous, formal first, and then more amused, curious, as he approaches to the world of Paris.
Faithful to the values of the house, the AMQ collection is based on fine tailoring interventions: the shoulders are high, the pants are available in two distinct versions – tight and straight to the leg the first, and the second flared, sometimes finished in velvet or with a band of satin on the flanks. The jackets are characterized by the classic Paisley pattern, Prince of Wales and Tattersall, with shirts from silk neck ivory, white cotton poplin, striped or with the corresponding print design.
An iconic ceremonial cape, finally, that refers to the world of peacocks, great, embroidered with gold thread, a hymn to the last eternal memories of Wilde.
www.alexandermcqueen.com

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Khamama: a project that flies with Beauty

KHAMAMA is a new sustainable luxury brand that is characterized by a strong ethical value: it produces accessories recycling… “butterfly wings”. The Khamama projects, created in Paris and handmade in Cheshire, England, are characterized by refined machining and very precious processes, that provide to the wings an extraordinary color, “High Art de Papillon” and create customed and unique smartphone-case. Khamama, which will soon also be launching a collection of clutch, took its name from the Cherokee language (khamama means precisely: butterfly), is a brand founded in 2015 by Amos and Simon Hornstein: the ethical aspect – aid in support reforestation and many other environmental projects globally – makes the Khamama phylosophy a gem of fashion and clever creativity.

www.khamama.com

@Riproduzione Riservata

PITTI UOMO 91 STYLE PREVIEW

1 SHOES WITH A TWIST
Baldinini, footwear producer known for its style and quality since 1910, presents an Autumn/Winter 2017-18 collection inspired by the contemporary man, with multi-faceted elegance and a propensity for classic lines, but with a twist. From tie Oxford shoes to moccasins to sneakers, Baldinini shoes are characterised by a chromatic palette that ranges from dark grey to violet to green and often utilising innovative textures treated by hand. The key theme in the collection is a forest inspired camouflage print, details that give life to elegance without rules.

2 TECHNOLOGY AND ECO-FABRIC
American Vintage, a casual French men’s apparel brand, will once again present a new collection at this season’s PITTI UOMO 91. There are three predominant fabrics in the A/W 17-18 collection, each with unique characteristics: Modal, a cellulose extract; Supima, baptised as “the cashmere of cotton”; and Tencel, a fibre made from eucalyptus; three elements that demonstrate an approach to simple and authentic beauty thanks to the use of natural fibres.

3 QUILTED, OF COURSE
In their jackets this season, Husky re-elaborates quilted themes, offering them in a modern take in a broad range of styles and “must-have” garments characteristic of the brand. Converging the characteristics of the classic raincoat and windbreaker, the brand gives life to a new model that is incomparable in functionality and lightness.

4 ALWAYS FIT
Lumberjack‘s official debut at Pitti Immagine Uomo, the Florentine event is the ideal stage to present new winter collections dedicated to the men’s fashion universe. For Lumberjack the undisputed star of the collection will be the Houston style, sneakers made for free time, perfectly meshing together the urban and outdoor lifestyle. Houstons are available in suede, nubuck or in a waterproof version in a palette of dark colours including an ultra elegant navy blue.

5 SECRET INSIDE
This season Cividini surprises us in the truest sense of the word, in fact, the Autumn/Winter 2017-18 collection is just waiting to be discovered. “Secret inside” is the concept around which each of the garments was designed, engineering and manufactured. Sweaters that have one appearance from the outside, hide a second soul if you look from the inside. Fine fabrics and intense colours make this layering “game” possible, arising from the coexistence of two personalities in one single garment.

6 CREATIVITY MADE IN KOREA
Protagonist at Pitti Uomo 91, are Korean brands with a special project called CONCEPT KOREA, that will take centre stage on 11 January, 2017 in the Dogana space in the Tuscan capital. With the intention of bringing Made In Korea fashion to light, two Korean brands will walk the Florentine runways thanks to government agency KOCCA which supports Korean creativity. The two brands are MUUET(TE) by BYUNGMUN SEO and ORDINARY PEOPLE. The first, founded in 2012 by the design duo Byungmun Seo and Jina Um, has a futuristic but relaxed style that undoubtedly celebrates the art of layering. While the second, designed by Jang Hyeong Cheol, devotes its creativity to a curated aesthetic, tailor-made with exquisite attention to detail.

7 EVERYDAY ELEGANCE
Refined and sought after garments by Siviglia for Autumn/Winter 2017-18; the attention to detail and high quality fabrics bring bespoke tailoring to every day life, in a balance between good looks and comfort. The now-famous colourful dyed pants, the jacquards created from nearly unperceivable geometric designs that move with the fabric, the miniature playful prints that bring style back to neckwear and the wools with a soft, warm hand are the foundation of Siviglia’s three capsules: Heritage, Clou and White.

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Italy in Tailoring

Sartoria Pirozzi, Napoli

Here there are no great numbers, only great passions. There are no million-Euro sales receipts, just small artisanal workshops where the hand and the heart are intertwined like thread. Like that of the legendary Ariadna given to Theseus to help him out of the labyrinth; in this case, of bad taste, and directly into the capable hands of the modern tailor. Here, the word “baste” has sartorial dignity. And the scissors are the only mechanical object. The rest is made up of dedication to the work and a passion for beauty and the finely crafted. Italian tailors are the new touchstones of masculine elegance, the point of comparison when buying a suit or choosing a jacket or overcoat. The guardians of an ancient tradition, handed down from father to son, these workshops today are recognized as playing a role of primary importance to the promotion of Made in Italy quality and expertise. To each his own… tailoring.
Dotted throughout the beautiful territory from north to south, are bespoke tailors each with his own story and style essense, as demonstrated by Domenico Pirozzi, a veritable repository of Ars sutoria intelligence acquired from his father Nunzio, who is now one of the most esteemed tailors from Neapolitan tradition. “Each of the garments we create is rendered unique by the completely handmade construction from freehand cutting without paper patterns, to the choice of quality fabrics,” says Pirozzi, a pillar in his family’s art (the tailoring shop was founded in Naples in the early ’60s). Pirozzi, also with a decade of experience at Kiton, continues, revealing the secrets of his craft: “each of our suits exudes softness and wear-ability, granted from the perfect cut and the fine materials that we use.” Of course it does not include the look and taste of the clothing: “a feature that distinguishes us is surely the slightly wider collar, with proper tailoring for current style codes, always soft, while the shoulder is smooth with a slight curve. It is an international, self-assured look.” The Neapolitan school of tailoring still has a lot to teach us in matters of style, thus, the Sartoria Pirozzi with its atelier on Via Gramsci, also organizes trunk shows abroad, exporting its style sense around the world as far as Japan.
A few kilometres further south in this hypothetical sartorial migration, we arrive in Salento, or more precisely in Martano in the province of Lecce, where we find Sartoria Colazzo dal 1966. Already the name proudly acclaims its many years making passionate fans of made-to-measure ever more elegant. Today, Alessandro Colazzo, together with his brother John, continues the family tradition alongside their father Arcangelo, founder of bespoke laboratory. Alessandro himself also lives and breathes the image of fine tailoring, becoming its first online advocate, “the web is useful- that is undeniable- it is the first window into a tailor’s work if he wants to lead the way in our times because with just one click you can bring reach people across a great distance. But to really understand what this art is about, you have to enter into the tailor’s shop, not just glance in through the window”. And it is also he who reveals the secret of today’s tailoring, “the Colazzo Tailoring tradition has its roots in the mid-60s. Every past era has brought forward with it unique and inimitable characteristics. Today our tailoring sees garments made entirely by hand, like the weaves of the fabrics made from natural camel hair and horsehair, made to measure for every customer. The sotto collo is “punticiato”- worked- by hand, which might seem trivial, but it gives the jacket a unique softness and wear-ability. Same goes for lapels, and not to mention the one-of-a-kind process for creating the “mappina” sleeve, which gets its name from the tea towels our grandparents used to use, that gives the jacket such lightness and ease of movement that the man forgets he is wearing it.”

Continuing up the Apennine mountain chain (well, sort of), you arrive in Florence, at Liverano & Liverano, who since the ’40s has been one of the most prestigious manufacturers to make its home on banks of the Arno River. Recently, the atelier has formed an unusual creative partnership with denim giant Roy Rogers, overseen by the Sevenbell Group, to produce the first sartorial jeans made in Florence, thus finding a creative meeting place between two seemingly irreconcilable worlds, whose future will breathe new life into bespoke denim.

Following the hypothetical thread that sews together Italy’s made-to-measure experts, we arrive in Milan, more precisely in Varese, where Sartoria Vergallo is based and run today by Gianni Cleopazzo, spokesman for the next generation of hand tailoring. He explains how the Cleopazzo style has clear ideas “the goal is to meet the demands and the tastes of our customers, who are all different. As a result, we do not like to impose on them our own style. For us, the customer is the one who likes to dress in an exclusive and personal way- of course we are talking about a person who appreciates the hand-made, and above all understands the time and cost required for the to produce a hand-made suit.”

Crossing over the Alps, you can still breathe the air of Made in Italy tailoring. Even in Antwerp. Thanks to Massimo Pirrone, a manager with sartorial background, who created his brand PM Eleganza Milanese, in Belgium in 2013. Despite being located outside the Italian border, the tailoring atelier wears the red, white and green flag because Pirrone relies on Italian manufacturing to create his garments. His sartorial fingerprint is identifiable as “reshaping the fit of menswear garments, to be appropriate for the younger crowd.” Star founder of his brand, Pirrone is still very active on social networks- its Instagram account has over 55k followers- because “we also put a little lifestyle [on Instagram], not just the suit but also everything else. In fact, followers often ask my advice on clothing, especially younger ones.” In matters of style Pirrone has a clear inspiration: “as a way of thinking and creating, I am inspired by Tom Ford, but Agnelli’s elegance will always be number one for me.”

The sum of all these examples demonstrates a vital, living, breathing sector, increasingly out to turn men’s made-to-measure fashion into the quintessential frontier of masculine elegance today.

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Paolo Luban, The Man Behind The Tie

 If there’s one accessory that defines masculine elegance, it is surely the necktie. Few, or rather very few, men escape the symbolic grip of the tie, possible to fasten in no less than 84 different ways because, François de La Rochefoucauld wittily expressed “the knot is to the tie as the brain is to the man.” Binding tightly, that is, both literally and figuratively, is the man and this accessory. Emphasizing the concept of masculine elegance is Loïc et giL. New, and yet already iconic. Sleek, but unobtrusive, this very new brand born in 2015 boasts Italian manufacturing, Swiss origin, and a creative spirit. Go behind the sharp elegance of this accessory to reveal the ideational passion of Paolo Luban, a former manager from Geneva with an impressive business background, who is also a profound connoisseur of art. Luban injects this passion into every style of tie he creates, hiding in the folds of the perfect knot are references to François Morellet, Enrico Castellani quotes and implications of Klaus Staudt. MANINTOWN met up with Paolo Luban to find out more.

How would you define a tie?
It is the most immediately visible accessory on a man who is dressed formally. From this perspective, it is very important. It’s also the item that allows the man to personalise and enliven his outfit the most. From a universe of potentially vast styles and colours, with aesthetic “wiggle room” greater than that offered by other accessories.

Do you have a favourite fabric?
Printed silk. For Loïc et giL, which focuses on originality of design and colours, it is a must.

Who is your muse for elegant menswear?
I don’t have any in particular. A few bloggers I follow have that natural class and a great capacity to combine the various elements of their look in an original way, for example like Guillaume Bo and Defustel. Among well-known fashion icons I have always admired Lapo Elkann.

You are one of those rare entrepreneurs who marries art and fashion- will you continue down that road?
[smiling] I definitely think so, those are my passions

Which men do you hope to dress with your ties?
All those who care about how they look. And all those who think their personal style can be amplified. Or at least a little bit…

What is the target market for your creations?
Mostly European countries, after all, my taste and aesthetic was born in this cultural and geographic context.

What are your projects for the future of the brand? What direction will it take?
In the near future, the goal is to make the brand and its styles as well-known as possible. The other challenge in the coming months will be to create new styles that continue to reinforce the strong identity of Loïc et giL.

loicetgil.com

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In conversation with Ewan McGregor

Credit: photographer matt barnes @primopianotv

His deep blue eyes will strike you immediately, rich in colour, capable of intense stares, seductive looks, humour, fun, intelligence. His face is painted with an array of expressive masks, as only a great actor is capable of doing. And then, Ewan McGregor captures you with his contagious energy, that enthusiasm rarely found in stars like him who may be more disenchanted by the experience and their years spent on set. Now, McGregor, at age 45, has decided to surprise everyone and get back into the game, also becoming a director. Currently in theatres in Italy, Ewan directs and stars alongside Jennifer Connelly and Dakota Fanning in “American Pastoral,” a story about a seemingly perfect bourgeois American family, turned upside down when their daughter grows up into a terrorist and political fanatic during the unrest of the 1960s. You’ll also soon see him in the long-awaited “Trainspotting 2,” the sequel to the first film, once again directed by Danny Doyle. This time in addition to the drug world, it will delve into the world of pornography. And, meanwhile, Ewan is already thinking about his next film as a director…

“American Pastoral” is the film adaptation of the eponymous book by Philip Roth, had you known of it prior to filming?
Yes, I had read the book and I could not get it out of my head. It was a story that I felt particularly close to, because I am the father of four daughters and as such I know very well this kind of father-daughter relationship. [McGregor has been married for many years to Greek/French production designer Eve Mavrakis and the two are parents to Clara Mathilda and Esther Rose, born in 1996 and in 2001, and two Mongolian adopted daughters Jamiyan and Annouk, born in 2001 and 2011]

It was something that hit home, then?
Yes, and I identified with the story even more, because at the time I was filming my daughter Clara was preparing to leave home and go to New York to attend the university. In a sense, I felt her absence, which made me feel even closer to my character. Then he has to deal with a daughter who has become a murderess. His sweet, naive little girl is transformed into something totally foreign to him, then his wife betrays him- everything goes to ruin at once. But he continues to stay and to love his daughter, looking for her after she has disappeared, he never gives up. Again, I recognize myself in him, because I am also a hard-head, I’m stubborn! [he laughs]. Not only at work, but also with the people I love. I don’t let myself get discouraged in the face of any difficulty.

Yet you have a marriage that has lasted a long time in Hollywood terms where so many couples separate.
Eva and I have known each other for a lifetime. Above all we are friends and we have always had this understanding. She must be some kind of saint. She supports me and accepts that I may have to be away on set for months anywhere in the world, or I might run on with my friends on a motorcycle trip. Let’s face it: not all women would put up with that.

What made you decide to suddenly go into directing?
Actually it was something I’ve been thinking about for some time. And I think I came to the decision to take this step now because I see it as the next evolutionary move in my career as an actor. It’s as if I can have my voice heard, and at the same time, become part of the artistic production process. At the beginning I actually thought about directing a film based on an Italian book Seta (by Alessandro Barico). I was ready to meet the author, then I happened to hear an interview in which he said he aimed to entrust the film adaptation of his book to one of the great well-known directors. Honestly, it scared me. I convinced myself that I would never have been considered. Sorry to flood you with words, I know I can be very intense [he laughs and pauses].

Imagine… Go on…
Then I was presented with “American Pastoral,” which I’d had in mind to do for years, ever since I read the book for the first time, and then I re-read it. It was my agent who suggested that I direct, thinking I was something I’d be good at. A lot of big actors like Jennifer Connelly and Dakota Fanning were already in the cast. The first thing I did was ask them if they felt comfortable working with a first-time director like me, and luckily, they said yes immediately.

As an actor, do you have a particular approach when relating to other actors?
I try to avoid that attitude I hate from the world of directors, that of authoritarian. I let actors take liberties, I listen to their opinions, let them improvise. I trust them and they trust me. I want everyone to feel confortable, so we can create a real working team.

What was the hardest part about directing?
The huge responsibility that on everyone’s behalf. In simple terms, I didn’t want to make a fool of myself! [laughs] At times, actors who try to direct for the first time are swept up by their naïveté and end up being obvious or banal.

Do you think you will repeat this experience then?
Definitely. And, by the way, I am looking for financing. If anyone out there reading is interested in investing in a great story…

“Trainspotting 2” will be in theatres soon, can you give us a preview?
For a long time I’ve wanted to continue the adventure of the protagonist from the first film. And this time he is also obsessed with sex and porn, besides just drugs. You will see a bit of everything then. Plus, it’s always a pleasure to work with the director, my friend Danny Doyle, who has inspired me a lot since he was the first to direct me when I was younger and inexperienced. I consider him a great friend.

Did you always want to be famous?
I just wanted to do what seemed the most fun in the world! [Laughs]

You will also be in the musical “The Beauty and The Beast”
That was an amazing experience, like “Moulin Rouge.” Singing and dancing makes me feel alive every day, in an emotion comparable to that of being on stage in the theatre, even though you are on a set. Because it feels like live acting.

Speaking of passions, you mentioned before your passion for the motorcycle…
When I’m in Los Angeles, where I’ve lived with the family for a while now, I always try to jump on one and ride up the Pacific Coast Highway, along the coast from Malibu to Santa Monica and then go to the studios. It doesn’t make my producers or directors very happy, since they’re afraid I am going to hurt myself, but I wont give that sense of freedom and feel of the wind in my hair. I collect old motorcycles and vintage cars, and I even know fix them myself if they break. A hobby that has proven itself to be useful, especially when I’m in some remote corner of the planet…

You’ve written books such as “Long Way Round,” about your travels on a motorcycle, crossing parts of the world along with one of your best friends, in addition to making documentaries. Any other adventures planned?
I have in mind a very exotic journey I’d like to take, in a very remote place, as soon as I can find time between one film and the next, because I’ve been working a lot recently. Or maybe I’ll just leave suddenly, because sometimes I really need to drop everything and just go.

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Interview: Travis Scott

Jacques Webster, aka Travis Scott, is not a man of many words, though when he speaks he get straight to the point, as do his songs. His new album Birds in the Trap Sing Brian McKnight is all about strong melodies and important vocal contributions from the Weeknd, Young Thug, Cassie, Kid Cudi, a great mentor for Travis together with Kanye West, Swizz Beatz, Bryson Tiller, and others the likes of Kendrick Lamar and Andre 3000. He produced an album with a very specific mission: to satisfy fans with his “trap music,” a kind of accelerated rap of which he himself has been one of the early champions, along with Atlanta rap groups like Migos, Young Thug and Gucci Mane. The cover art (shot by Nick Knight) shows Scott as something between a bird and a fallen angel, wrapped in white smoke as though he is just about to do something majestic. He’s no longer an up-and-coming protégé or an industry-packaged product, he is finally ready to fly free and becoming the next big storyteller in rap music. He also often plays with fashion, (he is friends with Riccardo Tisci) and starred in a recent movie for Yves Saint Laurent for the spring/summer 2017 collection wearing a suit that lights on fire, an element that references Travis’ nickname “La Flame.” We sat down with him to unveil his passions, which apart from fashion include design, architecture and medicine.

What is your relationship with fashion?
I believe it is an interesting one, it’s something that is part of me. It’s in me.

How would you define your style? Does music rhyme with style?
My style has no boundaries, it always represents what I am feeling, there is no one particular style. I personally think it does, 100%. Music is an extension of you and it has to match your style.

Lots of artists collaborate with fashion designers. Will you ever create your own fashion label?
That is an interesting idea but I am focusing on music. I am doing partnerships with other designers, I have a collab with Helmut Lang hitting stores at the end of January. I also work closely designing and creative directing my Travis Scott merchandise collections.

Can you tell us what your latest album is about?
Birds is the way I was feeling that time of the year, I was feeling boxed in on shit, I was making an album against the grain. I made the album to let the people know where I was at the time. Right now, I feel like its off my chest, I look forward to 2017. I feel like I am in a good place right now.

What is your favourite song of all times and why?
I’m really sorry MANINTOWN crew but that is impossible to answer, I really got so many favourite songs!

Performing on stage requires a lot of energy, what is your secret to be powerful on stage?
As simple as can be, I just have one secret: a whole lot of Sprite. It tastes so good and gets me going.

How do you interact with your audience?
My attitude is very welcoming. I am very personal and protective with my fans, I connect with them, all I care about is giving them a good time, especially when performing live, I like to be as close to them as I can.

What are your music influences?
A lot of psychedelic music, hard rap, ill beats.

Who do you consider your mentor?
I would say all my closest friends mentor me, but I have a couple inspirational musicians such as Kid Cudi and Kanye.

What does Kanye West represent to you?
Kanye is one of my best friends, he’s kind of stepped in as an important figure in my life, he has shown me a lot of this world, and I continue to learn a lot from him, every time we meet.

Who are your favourite emerging hip hop artists?
Made in Tokyo, 21 Savage- it was great I had him on my album.

Do you wish to be a mentor yourself for some of them?
I am always down to help other artists out.

When did you decide to be musician?
When I was a kid, I always wanted to do music, I kind of got that from my dad.

What did you dream about being when you were younger?
I wanted to be a kidney doctor. A nephrologist- a medical doctor who specializes in kidney care and treating diseases of the kidneys.

What’s your ultimate goal?
I want to keep doing big tours, to get into design and architecture. Expand more, with no limits.

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Photographer: Mike Piscitelli
Fashion Stylist: Nicolas Klam                        
Stylist Assistant: Ali Miller
Groomer: Phil Brown
Shot at the Mondrian, Los Angeles