Month: January 2018

Marco Castelli, when fashion is a starting point

Posted on by Redazione MANINTOWN

Originally from Sicily, yet cosmopolitan at heart, Marco Castelli, since he started modelling seven years ago, has seriously trotted the world. Maybe owing the many encounters he made, and the inspirational inputs he got from his experiences in Japan or in the States, Marco has soon shown a desire to do something creative himself. Hence, from model to ambassador of a brand he has helped grow, Ovvo Optics, to designer with an expanding Marco Castelli Collection. All this by understanding the role of the social media, increasing the number of followers, indeed he can now boast the figures of a true influencer. We interviewed him, and found out he is a humble guy, level-headed, with many ideas for the future, both professional and not.

How did you become a model?
I started working as a model by chance, after being discovered on a Sicilian shore by a talent scout, who immediately proposed me to model for Benetton. Since that summer in 2010, a leap into the unknown, and this adventure that took me to Milan and, shorty afterwards, to New York, where I have worked with great photographers.

No longer a model, but an influencer, thanks to the social media and other activities. How did this passage occur, and when did you become a designer too?
Actually, rather than influencer, I have started a business parallel to my modelling career, using the social networks to promote what I do. During one of my travels to the Big Apple, thanks to a casting with Red Models, I met Artur Pilat and his wife Margareta Augustyn, and become ambassador for their eyewear line Ovvo Optics, suggesting photographers for campaigns like Greg Lotus, and displaying the brand on Instagram. In so doing, I contributed to the sales and, most importantly, to the opening of new distributions, almost all over the world and, today, also in Italy. Back from the States, I felt the desire to create something mine, I started with some items, like the two-colour coat, and I instantly noticed the good response from the social networks. Now the project is expanding into a capsule collection and I confess that I am fulfilling one of my biggest dreams, a dream I have cherished ever since I was a child!

Speaking of your world on social networks, how many of your tips and images are honest and not-sponsored?
The social networks are today one of the biggest and most important things, not only for the businesses, but also for most of us, my advice is to communicate in a healthy and honest way, to give more visibility to the contents. The sponsorships are done to reach bigger numbers and specific targets, but if you are not true to yourself and honest, people will not follow you. What really matters is not necessarily having millions of likes, but getting the message across. The best thing is reading comments that make you understand that the followers trust you, that they don’t just see you as someone who simply sells a product. This is really gratifying.

How do you envision the evolution of the social world, and the role of the influencer? How do you envision your profession as a “grown-up”?
As a grown-up I imagine myself with a family, father of many children, so I cannot envision this social status in a far-away future. The future is now! The evolution of the social networks is already in place, indeed, at last, there is no business that has not grasped the importance and the role of the influencers. I strongly believe that a good team makes the difference; the future of social networks is us, what we sow, we reap. In my opinion those who stay true to themselves, will always be successful, real and credible, also when proposing a product.

The downside of your profession, if there is one.
The downside of my profession is that it keeps me away from my family, unfortunately, due to my travels and commitments, there is always little time to go back home. I cannot really see any other downside to my job!

Is there a style tip that you would like to share with your readers?
Be simple, do not overdo it in order to appear at any cost. Be yourself, rely on personal details that will have people remember you. And always buy quality.

Which city, since you have travelled a lot, has stuck to your heart? Is there a favourite place (bar, monument, restaurant) that you would advice?
Every city has given me something, but, at the moment, the first one I can think of is Japan. If you go to Tokyo, you have to visit the fish market, then have dinner at Shou Tsukiji, in Ginza, if you like fish, obviously. You will find many places where they serve ramen, a must, and buy some green matcha tea. You will no doubt cross the busiest crossing in the world, the one in Shibuya, a very commercial borough, but just round the corner I was shocked to see an area of the city where there were homeless camps, it left me speechless. If you love nature, hike Mount Fuji to the peak: an incredible emotion.

Milan: where to eat, where to drink, your favourite hang-out?
In Milan I adore Corso Como 10, not just as a store, I often go to the bar to drink ginger infusions, and sometimes I dine there. I don’t have a name to suggest for the aperitif, generally I hang out in via Moscova, though I prefer the little hidden places, not too crowded and not to hip. I like Baobab’s hamburger with boletus, then I have discovered a place, Lars, via Pestalozzi, where they make a delicious tuna fish burger. But the best place to eat is at home with my granny in Sicily.

Photographer| Ryan Simo
Styling| Stefano Guerrini
Grooming| Susanna Mazzola
Photographer Assistant| Alessandro Chiorri
Stylist Assistants| Verena Kohl, Paula Anuska, Cristina Florence Galati

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EDWARD HOLCROFT, THE BRITISH STAR FROM OUTER SPACE

Posted on by Redazione MANINTOWN

Hailed by Screen International as one of the “UK Stars of Tomorrow”, young British actor Edward Holcroft, born in 1987, sports a face that seems to come straight from William the Conqueror’s lineage, which, paired with a slightly retouched air, allows him to be perfectly suited both for the role of the enemy (in the blockbuster, Kingsman, first and second chapter of the Spy story), and for period dramas (Gunpowder, Walf Hall), nonetheless, he’d rather impersonate an alien. Holcroft will be in Alias Grace, on Netflix in 2018 and is also the protagonist of a fashion story on Manintown, where he gave his personal definition of style. Of Course.

How much  difference is there between cinema and TV today?
For me as an actor, there isn’t much difference the process is the same and the approach to characters is the same for any project.

How important is physical prowess for an actor today?
It depends on the role, you do whatever the part requires of you.

What factors do you consider when choosing a role?
It will always be the script and character. Who the character is and what relationships they have with the other roles in the project is always the main  factor for me.

You switch between period and modern  characters, which ones are you most comfortable with?
Neither really, I’d quite like to play an alien.

Which of the roles you have played suited you the most?
I tend to try and pick roles that are far removed from my own personally traits, so none of the characters I’ve played are that similar to me.

What is your definition of style?
I would say it’s being at ease in your own skin.

What do you think about social networks?
I don’t have much interest in social media, I’m not on any platforms so tend to steer clear of it.

Will you ever go back to theatre?
Definitely! I would love to go back when the right role comes along.

What advice would you give to those who want to become actors?
Trust your instincts and believe in your own ability.

What are the places you keep at heart?
I’d rather keep those close to my chest.

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ONCE UPON A TIME THERE WAS A LOST JACKET

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J’ai Perdu Ma Veste. The jacket, Nabile Quenum truly lost it, in a Parisian club, and thanks to this story he found the perfect name for his website (Jaiperdumaveste, indeed), a sort of photographic diary in which he collects his fashion shoots, captured in the streets all over the world. Nabile is a street style photographer with 217k followers on Instagram. Born in the Republic of Benin, in West Africa, when he was only about twenty years old, he moved to Paris, where he is now a mainstay of the Fashion Week. A love story, that with the photography, which came out by chance and it was combined with his other great passion, that for fashion.

Who is the most influencing person on the socials?
You have so many people that are the most influencing person on social networks, for so many reasons, like Neymar and Asap Rocky. I don’t call it influence. It’s just the result of people liking what you do or represent.

Do you consider yourself an influencer considering your social following?
I don’t consider myself an influencer. I would be a fool to think that.

How socials are important for you work?
Socials are very important in my work and I think in all work today. It allows everybody to build a relation with people that might be interested in what I’m saying, doing or showing. Socials can bring work and access. It helps a lot.

Do you also use your image to promote your work and get more likes and followers? Does it work doing it or not doing it?
I used to use my image, but I stopped, because I was loosing myself. Because socials are a drug. You taste it, it works, you have a positive answer (likes and followers). I was thinking that this was the way to express myself. But it’s not. So I don’t do it anymore. I feel free of not looking at my numbers on socials, not posting aggressively. I feel free; not a prisoner of likes.

What content performs best online?
That’s a tricky question. I really think that it’s very random. But globally, sexy girls and celebrities.

Nabile left us son after this interview. We like to remember with this legacy.

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SIMONE BELLI TEACHES BEAUTY

Posted on by Redazione MANINTOWN

Behind the spotless and bright faces of the silver screen, there are the talent and the expert hands of Simone Belli, the make-up artist of internationally renowned stars. Originally from Valmontone, in the province of Roma, since 2007 Simone has been National Make-up designer with L’Oreal Paris and since 2010, with his team of experts, he has been incessantly travelling from set to set, to festivals, events and backstage of the shows. Academy trainer, but also beauty tutor in the afternoon show Detto Fatto, broadcast by Rai2. MANINTOWN has tried to snatch some precious advice and rituals for an impeccable beauty routine for men.

Throughout your professional path you have studied art, do you apply it in your profession?
I have always drawn, since I was six. I became familiar with art since a very young age, through the encyclopaedia “I Quindici” and I still remember one of the volumes focussing on painting. When I was around eight I approached that world, which I then rediscovered in my professional life. When an art expert looks at how I use my brushes and mix shades, and the first thing they ask me is whether I paint, without even knowing anything about me or my background, this is my biggest satisfaction. Even the international artist Piero Casentini defined my profession as painting, owing to the elegance and harmony of the make-up I created for his sister, featuring a chromatic contrast between red-purple and acid green, which may be regarded as risky by some. I have always stated that all that has to do with colour, with art, with sensitivity, is inborn. A gift that no one can give you. You cannot become what you are not. In my academy (Simone Belli Makeup Academy, Rome), we invest a lot on the artistic development and awareness of the students, also through exhibitions, fashion films, music, etc. It is hard to say how much this actually works, as, unfortunately, 70% of those who approach this universe only seek fast revenues, which I regret, because there is a mistaken understanding of this sphere, it is not merely about applying an eye-shadow or contouring the lips with a pencil, or colouring them, it is an art, just like dancing or singing, so one ought to have a natural penchant for it. One more thing that taught me a lot is university, not so much from a cultural perspective, but as a life lesson that taught me sacrifice and method.

Is there a timeless beauty canon?
Beauty is timeless. Fashion changes our perception of beauty. In the past there were the famous “icons” to be emulated. Today we are more focused on finding ourselves, making the most of our assets. The biggest mistake one can make is to always hold the classicism canons as a benchmark, hence perfect harmony, which do not suit everybody. Men, today, tend to be the copy of women. When a man approaches beauty, he often does so obsessively: the eyebrows are impeccably, excessively, outlined, the same goes for the beard, while hair is super polished. All this leads to a loss in masculinity, hence charisma, sensuality and, ultimately, sex appeal. Which does not mean that man should not treat their skin with care, but that we should not fall into excesses. Timeless beauty is never too artificial, on the contrary it involves enhancing a specific feature, which could even be a flaw. We often tend to relate to magazine covers, where everything is very fake, the people we see on a cover are not like that in everyday life. There’s a lot of confusion between real life and glossy covers.

Your daily beauty routine?
Above all, as far as men are concerned, I can say that today we get much more help to camouflage little flaws, the effect can be a 80%, sometimes even a 100% camouflage. There’s more skin-care and beauty-awareness among men nowadays, and there are many more specific products for men. My personal face-skin-care is painstaking, while I tend to neglect the body. For the face, I often chance my personal skin-care routine, but what needs to be done properly and on a regular basis is a good cleansing. In this period, I am alternating two treatments, a morning and an evening one. In the morning, I use Clarisonic, a cleanser that reduces excess sebum, which I have chosen owing to its handiness; a serum by Kiehl’s, which I alternate with Crème De the Mer or a light vitamin fluid and a retinol eye balm. Without a good cleansing ritual, which removes the most superficial layers of the skin, applying a moisturizer, even the costliest, is pointless, as they cannot act in depth. At night, I prefer to use richer products. The absolute must-haves for me are by a line, Gernetic, that is exclusively sold in specialized skin care centers, consisting of two lotions: one is called Synchro, with a very thick and greasy texture, to be used with Immuno, as, together, they become active and their healing properties, as well as thickness, are boosted. These two combined-action products sooth and totally regenerate the skin, indeed they are also recommended to treat burns. I apply them at night, at times as a compress, leaving them on all night long. While I can alternate the other products, these two have been part of my skin-care ritual for ten years. Once a month, for a week, I apply a powerful vitamin serum cocktail by SkinCeuticals and a laser treatment that boosts skin brightness, treats enlarged skin pores, softens little wrinkles, stimulates the fibroblasts, though without transforming the face as Botox does. At home I have a do-it-yourself kit, which I take with me when I travel and use before important events: a mandelic acid peeling, with a light formula. I recommend it to all the men, but also women, with dull skin, and also after sunbathing. Then I have a ritual for when I am travelling: in my beauty case I always keep the Kiehl’s Cactus Flower face mist, and a lip balm. Last but not least, I use a wealth of integrators, under the guidance of a naturopath.

A must-have product for a man
The mandelic acid, because it stimulates the collagen production, it also eliminates the perception of enlarged pores, it reduces skin dullness, softens the wrinkles, and gives superbly glowing skin.

The key steps to look great, also when in a rush?
Every day I apply a primer mousse, which I have developed in the laboratory, which is a lightly coloured perfecting skin product with a natural look, after that a sort of marker, which I use for the eyebrows, absolutely natural and imperceptible, to emphasize the contrast of eyebrows and eyelashes, then I apply Blistex on my lips and I’m ready go out.

Are there any new, innovative and absolute go-to products?
The products that I prefer are the Kiehl’s serums, they include a range of outstanding products for men, among which those for beard care, very trendy nowadays. For men who want to spend a bit less, the line Men Expert by L’Oréal Paris is a really interesting alternative. Market research has shown that the men prefer products that are easily applied and high-performance, yet I make no distinction between man and women in terms of moisturizer, it is important to choose the right one, according to one’s skin type.

A beauty secret you snatched from the backstage?
As crazy at it may sound, but it is often used for face compresses, a cream for intimate areas, which is highly moisturizing: these products are very hydrating, hence they hydrate the face skin very deeply, especially the wrinkles. Another thing, which in my opinion does not work, is the Preparation H under the eyes. We use the Ageless pink clay vials with an active ingredient that acts as a tensor and instantly removes bags under the eyes, dark circles and wrinkles. I wet the face with water and then I dab the content of this vial on the area to be treated. One ought to learn to handle it, as, being clay, it tends to turns white. Also the anti-perspiring foot lotion is frequently used on the face, only for special occasions, like fashion shows, so that the models’ face does not sweat under the spotlights. These are last-minute secrets for special occurrences, not to be used on a regular basis. Another product that is used is the soothing Fissan Paste for children, which is just amazing for after-sun compresses, or to sooth irritated skin.

If you were to create your own line, which would be your main ingredient?
I am actually developing my on line in the lab. The choice of ingredients is the hardest thing to do, as some ingredients are not legal in Italy, hence they cannot be used. In terms of moisturizers, I’d never relinquish the vitamins (A, C, E) concept, which can be extrapolated and developed in many ways. As regards the make-up, things are more complex. In general, I don’t like strong fragrances and I like Made in Italy products. What I am trying to achieve with my line, both in terms of make-up and skincare, is the WOW-effect. Two new masks have just been launched on the market: a commercial one, the black one, and a white one. The latter is a highly-hydrating alginate to be left on for 5 minutes and, when it is about to dry, I have prepared a minerals cocktail to be sprayed on the face, that forms a film and interacts on the skin hydrating it and minimizing the enlarged pores. Once you remove the mask, the skin is gorgeous, compact and dazzling.

Who would you NEVER make-up, and why?
I don’t like to apply make-up on people who don’t like make-up. When I apply make-up on someone, there is an exchange of energy. As crazy at it may seem, when a person does not enjoy being made up, she/he can be annihilating, so I prefer not to do that. In general, I don’t like to apply make-up on tanned skin, as I don’t get a chance to create all my shade contrasts.

simonebelliscuolatrucco.com

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LE GRAMME, a journey through Art Deco

Posted on by Redazione MANINTOWN
LE GRAMME, a French accessories and jewellery brand with a minimalist essence, launches, exclusively on its website, a new capsule collection of engraved bracelets inspired by Art Déco, a style that continues to inspire architects, designers, decorators, printers, artists and designers from all over the world.
From its inception LE GRAMME has been dedicated to exploring the rigor of movement and today its signature clean and geometric lines are hightened by a graphic style with emblematic renown; this Art Deco inspired engraving embellishes a range of 3 bracelets in polished 925 silver: the 33 g, 15 g and 21 g. Each bracelet may be worn individually or together with the other two, so that their matching patterns combine to reveal a complete design. This capsule collection is just the first step of a much longer journey for the brand, which will present to the public a series of variations, also in Silver 925, every two years.

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@Riproduzione Riservata

CLIO MAKE UP: THE TRIUMPH OF SIMPLICITY

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If in Italy we know what a primer, a blush or an eyelash curler is, that’s thanks to her, Clio Zammatteo, alias ClioMakeUp, who, in 2008, opened her YouTube channel, when the YouTuber profession, above all in Italy, hardly existed. While she was living her American dream in New York, she shared what she was learning at make-up school through short tutorials, which became increasingly technical in time, thus contributing to spread the art of make-up: from the catwalks to everyday life. Today Clio is make-up artist, YouTuber, beauty blogger, book author and TV personality, but she is still the sweet, a little clumsy girl of her debut days, the virtual friend, who to turn to for advice and for a honest answer. She has also recently launched a lipsticks line – fully made in Italy and sold online – which, 14 hours from its launch, was sold out. This is Clio’s time to shine, crowned by the birth of little Grace. MANINTOWN has interviewed her for you.

When did you realize that you could invest everything on this dream and project of yours?
I actually realized this quite late, around 2012, as, until then, I had many collaborations, TV shows, books, and I used to manage almost everything by myself, I was more of a true YouTuber, a person who made a living thanks to her passion. Around 2012, when more people started to work at the project, and, above all, we opened the blog, I started to understand that it could become a profession, because I was employing other people, I was not merely supporting myself. Every year there has been a little growth, which helped me believe in the longevity of the project, while on the web is rife with short-lived phenomena. This one, on the contrary, kept on growing, as my husband, my sister-in-law and I, the main trio of ClioMakeUp, have always been focusing on how to grow.

You show that dreams can come true. Which were your ingredients for success?
Certainly honesty and teamwork, as by now ClioMakeUp is a twenty-people business. We want to convey an idea of home, family, loyalty and honesty, the values which we have always relied on, in everything we do. Also the collaborations always start from the products, the tests and the determination to be honest with a community that has always followed and supported us. Plus, having never forgotten my roots and having stayed true to myself has also meant a lot.

You have always advocated body-positive messages, without distorting realty with Photoshop and the likes. What is your take on those who obsessively seek perfection?
I think that physical appearance is only a little part of what a person really is. Having said this, I cannot judge other people’s choices. A big bum or a long nose do not make the difference nowadays, in fact, we have to focus on something else. Obviously make-up and looking good are important to me, but it is not something I daily grapple with, and it is not something that makes me a better or a worse person. I have always been honest, also with myself, regarding my qualities and flaws.

What’s your secret to accepting yourself?
The key is understanding what the really important things in life are, then all the rest can take a back seat. Surrounding yourself with people who love you for what you are is another key element. Finding a person like Claudio, my husband, who has always loved and supported me for what I am, has led me to love myself better.

Another thorny issue you have addressed is maternity and the followers’, though often accidental, intrusiveness, which can sometimes hurt. For those who share (almost) everything on the social networks, are there any limits that should not be overstepped?There undoubtedly are, personally I don’t publish everything about my life. Nobody does this. People tend to publish only the positive aspects. As far as I am concerned, neither this is the case, as I do not try to show a sweetened, polished version of me. It is important not to share everything, otherwise people will end up expecting too much from you, and it’s no good when people expect to know virtually anything about your private life. In my opinion, this, the right balance, is something one learns in time.

What makes your lipstick line different?
It addresses everyone. Nowadays, above all new brands, often only address a specific target. My brand, on the contrary, addresses all: girls who feel beautiful and those who feel less beautiful, as well as those who feel like experimenting. Very young girls, but also mature women. It is a user-friendly brand that makes no distinctions. Most importantly, the people who buy my products are aware that there are so much work, research and experimentation behind them, months and months of tests, they know that it is not an activity born merely to make money. People trust ClioMakeUp, because they know that I have tried many products and when I recommend something, it means that I consider it to be the best.

How is your relationship with fashion? What are your fashion go-to items?
I don’t have a great relationship with the fashion (she giggles, Ed). I have realized that, having chosen make-up, fashion sort of takes the back seat. I don’t spend a lot on clothes, as fashion is a bit like make-up, everyday millions of new garments, shoes, bags are launched on the market, websites are updated every single week. If make-up is my chosen job and I can invest on it, I try to restrain myself when it comes to apparel. I buy basic items that can be worn every day. Moreover I love dresses and I often wear them. I wear them in summer and also in winter with thick stockings and oversize pullovers. I have my own style, hence I do not really follow the trends. I like flowery prints, but I can never renounce black dresses, black is a classic for a make-up artist, because when you get dirty, it does not show, but also because it’s a colour I like, that goes well with everything, most importantly, with different outfits, it always look different. It is an evergreen, absolutely timeless.

Not only tutorials, but also vlogs. The best travel experience?
I have travelled to lots of places, but what really holds a special place in my heart is Iceland, where I did three vlogs. It was a wonderful journey, even if we went in a very cold period of the year, at the start of January, with only four hours of sunshine a day, it was freezing cold. Despite the climate was not the best one can hope for, it was a breath-taking journey, with unparalleled sunsets. That place filled me with peace of mind, ditto the friendliness of the people, everything was truly fantastic. We spent some truly wonderful days there, I can’t wait for Grace to grow up a little, so I can take her there, as I think she will like it too.

Your posts often show a deep love for Italy. Have you ever considered coming back for good?
Yes, we often think about it, although we have to finish our experience in America first, which has already given us a lot, but there are still a couple of things we have to do. For sure, for the future, we have already started to wonder in which Italian city we would like to live with Grace, above all because I would like my little one to grow at home, close to our loved ones.

A project still to be fulfilled?
I can honestly say that I am lucky, all my dreams are coming true, this is an incredible feeling. I would say that my goal for the future is to make this line of ours grow, but there is no haste, I am not a person who wants all on the spot, I am aware that to do things properly, you need to take your time, hence that’s what we are doing. Thanks to the people who follow us and to the quality of the product, I am confident that we can do great things in the future.

Which products for men would you recommend?
Drawing from my experience with Claudio, I would suggest the moisturizing serums as, compared with the creams, they have a lighter texture, hence they are more suitable for those men who hate the “heavy” look, or the slightly greasy effect of some creams and also for those with a beard, like Claudio, who use the serum because it penetrates in depth without leaving the beard greasy. Other good products are the matting creams, there are many on the market for the “T” area, above all for men with greasy skin, and then all the oils for the beard, especially in this moment when the beard is in fashion. Oils help keep the beard tidy, shiny, they really make the difference, it is apparent.

cliomakeupshop.com

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The Classics Keep Going Strong

Posted on by Redazione MANINTOWN
Kawasaki

The rediscovery of classic aesthetic themes characterizes an increasingly larger per cent of new motorcycle offerings, so much so that the latest edition of EICMA saw a plethora of such ideas from nearly all manufacturers. The Japanese take the lion’s share, with Kawasaki unveiling the Z900RS, the first example of classic performance, which combines the modern performance features of the Z900 body with a clear aesthetic homage to the historic Z1 of 1972. Far from the least is also Honda, who exhibited the CB 1000R and the conceptual CB4 Interceptor, with classically minimalist lines, in this case designed in ultra modern material and, unlike Kawasaki, nearly entirely original. Two models explicitly aimed at passionate riders with a bit of experience and driving ability, given their very powerful performance- the bikes are capable of 110 and 145 horse power respectively. A little less specialised are the Ducati and Moto Morini models: the first elevates its Scrambler to an 1100 cylinder, sacrificing a bit of user-friendliness in order to provide more excitement to experienced fans. The performance increases moderately, as does its refinement. On the other hand, the Moto Morini Milano is completely innovative, even on the tried and true Corsacorta 1200 twin-cylinder base, designed by the expert hand of Angel Lussiana, creating a motorcycle with various allusions to the manufacturer’s past designs. And we cannot go without mentioning two novelties: America and Bobber Black- with which Triumph completes its new Bonneville line, always one of the most appreciated by classic motorcycle enthusiasts. Among other interesting novelties, it is worth highlighting the alternative creation of Energica, which offers the first example of a classic, on a zero-emission base frame: the EsseEsseNove model- named for Via Emilia, an historic street that runs through Modena, home of the factory- and of the ultra refined stripped down electric Eva bike, which combines a classical aesthetic and positioning with noteworthy performance.

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FROM HERE ON

Posted on by Redazione MANINTOWN

FROM HERE ON is the title of the exhibition and of the exclusive interview with Francesca Galliani, artist who since the ‘90s has shown through her works the strength and beauty of transgender men and women living at the frontiers of the traditional categories by which we define society and social roles. Stories of courage, celebrating diversity and the right to truly be your real self.

When did you start wanting to get into the arts?
I moved to the U.S. when I was 19. I decided to enroll in art school in Washington D.C. I also took a basic photography class where I learned how to really use a camera. I fell in love with photography almost immediately, and I spent a lot of time in the dark room with my photographs. My instructor was very supportive and really encouraged me to pursue my newfound passion. I discovered how much life photography gave me, and in many ways enriched me. I went to the Corcoran School of Art and received my BFA there.

Your relationship with Italy and NYC
My roots are Italian, but I am a proud New Yorker. I owe so much to NYC. It has helped me tremendously to come to terms with who I am, to embrace and celebrate me. It is a city that pulsates with freedom, openness, tolerance, acceptance and celebrates differences. NYC thrives on difference, cultures, religions, sexuality and gender.

Tell me about your creative process
The first thing I need to do is to get quiet within and listen to what comes up and without questioning, execute it. My technical artifice supports the expressive urgency. In the darkroom I invented personal techniques, taken from ancient processes and modified to my liking: hand-rendered sepia toning, punches of selenium and bleaching. Material interventions on the image surface that renders it unique.

You are an active ally and member of the LGBTQ community, how do you approach the present political climate and how do you advocate with your work?
As an artist I have a responsibility to defend freedom of expression, basic human rights, and civil and political liberty that is still suppressed in our modern society, that has taken a dramatic backward turn since the last election. Historically it is a reality that art helps change the world, and my intention and passion is to contribute to that change through my art.

Your definition or non definition of gender and the message you want to advocate with your work
“You are more than just neither, honey. There’s other ways to be than either-or. It’s not so simple. Otherwise there wouldn’t be so many people who don’t fit.” (Leslie Feinberg, Stone Butch Blues 1993)
As a means of self-discovery I have been photographing transgender people since the 90’s, showing the dignity, power and beauty of being human in any outward appearance you choose and that includes being transgender. I photograph transgender men and women who live on the margins of traditional categories by which we define society and roles within it. Sometimes these portraits hint at the more tragic aspects of life experience: “stop misery,” “trash,” “fight back,” smash gay oppression.” The tension in these works arises from the combination of gendered faces and bodies that seem unambiguous, with emotional expressions that vary from seductive, tender, and introspective to despondent, confrontational, and triumphant.

How was Made In Me 8 born?
Made In Me 8 came to fruition on its own. It has been an exciting process that started on Gay Pride 2015, a few days before the Supreme Court issued a ruling legalizing gay marriage in all 50 states. I decided to paint some t-shirts for my friends that read: “love wins” (President Obama coined that quote right after gay marriage was legalized). It was there in the crowd, making our way down 5th Avenue that. I found a new platform. I saw the opportunity to make my art public, wearable, usable and affordable for a wider audience.The screen-printed shirts have my original art work literally printed on them. I chose artworks that express my point of view. They start a conversation, which is very hard to do with so many different strong points of view, especially in this divided climate. The hand-painted shirts have strong messages of hope and acceptance. There is power in words and they draw you in more when they are isolated from their expected context.

What will you bring to Milan? What ties do you feel with Milan?
I will bring a body of portraits on transgender men and women and a body of work of the endlessly transforming NY. Milano is my past, but it still lives within me in a remote, but not forgotten place.

Photos by Francesca Galliani

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GUARDIANI: ONESOUL, MANY PERSONALITIES.

Posted on by Redazione MANINTOWN

To illustrate the brand-new, iconic unisex sneaker, ONESOUL, a minimalist and versatile accessory perfectly suited both for leisure and for more formal or fashion outfits, Alberto Guardiani has chosen couples of micro- metropolitan influencers, people who don’t necessarily have a digital identity and a number underscoring their social impact (on Instagram), but a true and real social life.
People who, owing to their daily life, have an impact on their milieu. Guardiani has chosen to work with couples with a dynamic and urban lifestyle, to convey the unisex and versatile nature of the new sneaker, as well as all its diverse personalities. The project aims to contextualize the new unisex sneaker, the many styles and personalities of those who got involved in the project, similar people in terms of lifestyle, though different in terms of mood, and it has done so by capturing these couples in their daily life. Hence, images, videos and interviews produce a patchwork of possible milieus, capable of expressing the multi-faceted universe of these sneakers, thus offering a trailblazing way of giving visibility to a product.
Ceylan Atinc and Can Baydar (photo) perfectly exemplify this concept. They are the protagonists of ONESOUL_MANY PERSONALITIES: CEYLAN X CAN: a brief fashion film of their day. She, fashion editor with Marie Claire Turkey and teacher at IMA Fashion School in Istanbul, he has little, if nothing to do with fashion, being the frontman of one of the most alternative bands in Turkey. Two personalities so different, with different lifestyles, who share the same need to have a functional, versatile, but also and above all stylish accessory.
Both, indeed, represent two interpretations (woman and man) of the iconic unisex sneaker ONESOUL, which combines minimalistic design, the shades and materials of a formal shoe, the functionality of footwear that can be worn round the clock, the lightness and comfort of sneakers.
This genderless, multi-faceted background also permeates the SS18 advertising campaign, featuring images fluctuating between naïve irony and pastel shades, reminiscent of Wes Anderson, and the ‘50s perfectionist, though caricatured settings of Pleasantville. Here, ONESOUL unisex sneakers are immersed in many tableaux vivants, where they are the absolute stars, as well as the only chromatic element, breaking the predominant mono-chromatisms. Emblematic is the picture of the couple (she and he) wearing the same pair of unisex sneaker, their faces hidden by a newspaper, whose image is repeated endlessly on the cover, for Magritte-like surrealism with vintage flair.
Through dream-like worlds and real-live images, Guardiani has chosen to illustrate the several personalities of ONESOUL, underscoring the countless ways in which this can be interpreted by one person, but also the way in which many personalities can interpret it.

www.albertoguardiani.com

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MASTERS OF CEREMONY

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For some time the paradigm in menswear has been shifting from classic, to casual and urban wear. The never ending quest for the next big thing hasn’t gotten dull, luxury brands once associated with classic suiting have dabbled in luxury casual wear, and even street wear brands have fallen into the temptation to upscale their collections. These brands are exploring new territories and often create great pieces, however a few newer brands have decided to stick to their area of expertise, and focus on being among the best in their fields.
Sciamat, Ambrosi, and John Sheep have quietly established themselves as houses to both watch and to learn from.
In a relative short time, Sciamat based in Bitonto, Italy has emerged as master of crafting fabric into work of art. Having a different philosophy not being enough to separate one brand from another, the creative force Valentino Ricci of Sciamat initiated to re sketch the basic form of the suit to create something that feels more like a second skin. While many can claim to create something artistic, few can articulate it through their product the way Sciamat does.
Ambrosi, nestled in the Spanish Quarters of Naples, Italy runs a trouser shop that spans two generations of the product remains about details, hand craftsmanship, and the perfect fit, but Salvatore Ambrosi (the son) has injected his take on the modern world into the trousers. He travels constantly between New York, Hong Kong, and all points in between throughout the year, and has found subtle ways to make the trouser steal the limelight from ones blazer, sweaters, and shirt. Comfort and elegance are a result of the father and son team, while tradition and the no nonsense attitude of Naples make Ambrosi a name for a selected audience.
John Sheep is an unexpected gem that bridges different worlds effortlessly. This blazer company from Martina Franca, Italy produces yachting / boating type blazers that connect visions of Ivy league college and southern Italian cool. Specializing in knitted stripped blazers, John Sheep carefully threads the grey area between fun and serious. With just enough of both spirits, it represents the cool blazer, identifiable not to a specific age group but instead to an attitude that revolves around style and comfort.
While Sciamat, Ambrosi and John Sheep exist in a period where mash ups and restructuring is the order of the day, they have chosen to stick with what they hold true and what they excel in. Sciamat and John Sheep both show at the incomparable Pitti Uomo in Florence Italy, one of the worlds most respected stages when it comes to menswear. While Ambrosi doesn’t show at the fair, you will find his work via some of the most stylish men in the fashion industry.

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MUST HAVE

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As we begin talking about Spring/Summer 2018 we know that the warmer months entail a wardrobe of bright colours: in the summer we are more daring and more playful with our style, a less frequently occurrence in winter months. Additionally, because the historical moment we are currently facing does not always offer us daily reasons to smile, I decided to approach my regular ‘must-have’ column this season by thinking of a word that seems to have gone ‘out of fashion’: pizzazz! My choices are all in the name of colour and vivacity- if not excessive exuberance- and they bring a touch of effervescence to our outfits and, consequently, to our lives. Here you have the accessories, garments and objects of desire for Spring/Summer 2018

PALM ANGELS
We are madly in love with “The Get Down,” the Baz Luhrmann series that recounts the early days of the hip-hop scene, in Studio-54-era New York. Naturally, the b-boy tracksuit in bright colours as well as the pastels offered by Palm Angels this season seems to be one of the strongest trends of Spring/Summer 2018. Francesco Ragazzi, the Italian designer behind Palm Angels, has won public and critical approval on his second catwalk presentation last June. Sportswear has never been so cool.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE
The “Tiziano XXX” sneakers by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, an off-white calfskin high top, are up-to-the-minute modern even though they harken an old-school vibe, which makes them even more desirable thanks to their clean, minimalist style, and the hand-painted asymmetric beige XXX on the side. Rounding out this must-have sneaker are details like beige gros-grain laces, and an ultra-light white rubber sole with vicuña colored leather inset at the arch, imprinted with a heat-embossed logo.

PRADA
The son of an avid fan of the adventures of Tex Willer, I have always been a comic book reader. For years, I ranged from manga to Dylan Dog. Which is why I really loved Prada’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection, where garments and accessories employ a truly cool decorative element of images from futuristic comics. Irresistible, and of fiercely on-trend is the leather fanny pack, in comic prints, of course. Not one fashion addict isn’t already in a frenzy to get their hands on it.

PARROT POT
A flowerpot so smart it waters the plants for us? It seems incredible, but Parrot Pot, a wireless vase for both indoor and outdoor use, is capable of autonomously caring for plants, adapting to their needs by measuring via four sensors the data essential to the good health of our beloved plant- details that, for someone like me who does not have a green thumb, seem almost incomprehensible- like the humidity of the soil or the intensity of the light. Measurements can be monitored by the app Parrot Flower Power for smartphones and tablets, which can check up to 256 vases and also doles out advice from experts. It is indispensable for those who love plants but never manage to keep them alive- even the fakes ones!

ALAIN MIKLI LUNETTES
Alain Mikli Lunettes are for those who want to be noticed, wearing accessories with a striking personality, like the Ayer unisex model from the Resort 2018 collection which has a refined aesthetic, characterized by etchings and plays on volume. They made us think of the music videos of our favourite ’80s icons, and the colour of the acetate frame is the real superstar!

MARNI
It reminds me of my grandparents’ habit of strapping together packed suitcases for a trip with an old belt. Perhaps because it is so sentimental that I like this offering by Marni, in harmony with the retro mood that characterizes the work of Francesco Risso since he became Creative Director of the brand. The belt, in technical fabric with a brass buckle, is decorated with five metal brooches, while the leather bag is printed with a small boat motif, which is perfect for spring trips to the lake.

GUCCI
Perhaps unusual in men’s fashion, since becoming Creative Director of Gucci, the much-loved Alessandro Michele has now conditioned us to gender-mixing. And these shopping bags, so similar to those we’d use in the markets of certain exotic countries, have immediately won our hearts, to the point that we cannot choose just one. As always, the excellent decorative elements stand out, like writings and images from the garden and horticultural world.

HERMÈS
Not a sneakers guy but you’re tired of classic men’s shoes? The Hermès Spring/Summer 2018 moccasin is most right choice. In denim and suede, they remind us of the 1970s playboys who spent their holidays on the Côte d’Azur alongside Jane Birkin and B.B.! Don’t forget to add a scarf from the maison, to complete the look a la Gunter Sachs.

CERAMIC CACTUS
A witty and colourful addition to our homes, or an idea to liven up our desk in the office, why not? A collection of ceramic decorative objects, in the shape of a cactus, whose name is quite easy to remember: Cacti. They are from Danish brand Hay and you buy them on designrepublic.com.

SUPERDUPER HATS
SuperDuper Hats, accessories brand by Matteo Gioli and Veronica and Ilaria Cornacchini, has always been dear to us, because it has succeeded in bringing an ancient gesture- that of wearing a hat- into the habits of contemporary men and women. We were won-over once again this season with a style that brings the feeling of the lightness and dreaminess of flying far away, like a bird rising up from the headwear. For true romantics!

COACH 1941
Keith Haring’s work in the eighties and nineties left an indelible mark not only on the underground artistic scene, but also on the mainstream. We find evidence of how Haring’s graffiti art style is still so popular today in the Spring/Summer 18 collection of Coach 1941, whose creative director Stuart Vevers has placed some of the American artist’s symbolic drawings on both clothing and accessories. The sneakers and backpack where Haring’s characters are layered over a Hawaiian print are really sensational.

PENS PRODIR
For those who, like us, still love to write by hand in this increasingly technological age, four models: Twenty, Eight, Ten, and Six, in six colours- twenty-four combinations through which to convey emotion, or express ourselves. Prodir, known for its Swiss-made pens synonymous with quality, design, sustainability and durability, remind us with their collection “Me, Myself and I” by German designer Christoph Schnug, that writing is the highest expression of one’s own personality, unique and individual, representing the time we dedicate to ourselves. A true luxury for this new millennium.

GOLDEN GOOSE DELUXE BRAND
Noted for its footwear, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand’s 360-degree collection has gained many fans. We fell in love with the “perfecto” jacket, which is offered for Spring/Summer 18 in unusual colours, like total white, broken up by black graphic symbols reminiscent of tattoo art and the United States. Idem for the flamingo image which softens the symbolic biker garment, infusing it with a coolness that makes it the object of our desire.

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Cinecult: Tutti i soldi del mondo di Ridley Scott

Posted on by Redazione MANINTOWN

“Tutto ha un prezzo. Lo scopo della vita è venire a patti con quel prezzo”, parola di Jean Paul Getty, il leggendario petroliere descritto magistralmente nell’ultimo film di Ridley Scott ‘Tutti i soldi del mondo’. Distribuita da Lucky Red e candidata a tre Golden Globe, la pellicola del grande regista che ha firmato capolavori come ‘Blade Runner’ e ‘Thelma e Louise’ porta sul grande schermo le trame e i retroscena di un episodio di cronaca raccapricciante del 1973: il rapimento in Italia da parte della ‘ndrangheta calabrese di John Paul Getty III, nipote prediletto del magnate del petrolio raffinato collezionista di opere d’arte e uomo d’affari senza scrupoli. Nel film lo interpreta un grandioso Christopher Plummer che incarna senza pari l’avidità e la spregiudicatezza del grande tycoon americano : un uomo duro e ambizioso che credeva di essere la reincarnazione dell’imperatore Adriano e sognava di fare della sua famiglia una dinastia. Dei suoi 14 nipoti John Paul Getty III(un efebico e inquietante Charlie Plummer davvero convincente nella parte) era quello che secondo il ricchissimo nonno doveva subentrargli sul trono del suo impero. Ma all’inizio Getty senior pensò che il sequestro del nipote a Roma fosse solo uno scherzo architettato dal ragazzo, un po’ testa calda e ribelle- cresciuto con un padre debole e tossicodipendente e una madre dai saldi principi, Abigail interpretata da una formidabile Michelle Williams- con lo scopo di trarne dei benefici economici. Ma aldilà dei sospetti della polizia italiana sulle Brigate Rosse i cui esponenti dell’epoca conoscevano bene il ragazzo rapito, in realtà il sequestro fu messo in atto dalla mafia calabrese che portò il ragazzo a Fiumara. La vicenda, ricca di colpi di scena e di momenti mozzafiato anche leggermente cruenti, vede contrapposti a Fletcher Chace ex agente della CIA e mediatore di Getty impersonato da un testosteronico e spesso contraddittorio Mark Wahlberg prima la madre del ragazzo, Gail, alla quale la Williams ha saputo infondere la grinta e la forza d’animo di una madre moderna che nel film sembra assurgere a eroina dai saldi valori, e poi ‘l’imperatore’ Getty che non credeva nella famiglia né negli esseri umani ma solo nella bellezza delle cose, per lo più opere d’arte la cui innocenza secondo Jean Paul Getty supera quella delle persone. Nell’intrigo delle vicende riccamente sfaccettate e gestite con grande sapienza registica e di sceneggiatura che rielabora il libro ‘Painfully rich’ di John Pearson spicca il lato umano del ‘male’ ovvero il rapitore Cinquanta interpretato con notevole spessore e intensità dal ‘nervoso’ Romain Duris. Il film in parte girato in Italia con un cast che schiera sul set vari attori nazionali-fra gli interpreti anche Marco Leonardi, Francesca Inaudi, Giulio Base e Nicolas Vaporidis-si presenta particolarmente suggestivo per la vibrante magniloquenza espressiva di Scott che si traduce nell’efficace luminismo e nell’uso espertissimo e sottile dell’inquadratura e per il talento degli attori, tutti perfettamente calati nei loro ruoli drammatici ma emblematici di una saga familiare che è rimasta un caso mediatico internazionale. Un film affascinante, chiaroscurale, denso di energia da thriller con interessanti risvolti umani come quelli del mitico Jean Paul Getty, rappresentato come un ‘taccagno’ dall’inestimabile patrimonio, che è anche un po’ il simbolo di una certa plutocrazia americana e della sua etica attuale.

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CARTOON RE-EDITION

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“The cat is back”! The 100% made in Italy Technicolor T-shirts are the backdrop for Alessandro Enriquez’s famed FELIX THE CAT strokes. Inspired by legendary Charlot and illustrated by a team of animation wizards back in 1919, Felix has become the protagonist of 10X10 ANITALIANTHEORY’s capsule collection. Nostalgic, twinkly and pop, it celebrates the theme of Pitti Uomo 93: cinema. A painstakingly embroidered feline cameo, along with the masks of the Italian tradition, illustrated by Studio Fantasma. The main fall winter collection takes inspiration from the most beloved Carnival characters. The whole collection features the lines of the casual streetwear from the ‘80s: loose fit and armholes and primary colours, combined with premium raw materials, like cashmere in different thicknesses and Merino wool.

www.alessandroenriquez.com

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STYLE SUGGESTIONS & TRENDS FROM PITTI UOMO 93

Posted on by Redazione MANINTOWN
The Despoke Dudes EyEwear

Season after season, Pitti Immagine Uomo reaffirms itself as the main international platform for the menswear collections and for the global launch of lifestyle projects. This edition features 1.230 brands, out of which 541 from abroad, covering the widest international menswear panorama; moreover, a special focus on athleisure and the boost of the sections expressing the most contemporary and cutting-edge menswear scenarios, as well as the fashion-forward areas. On stage, there are also the new generations of craftsmen from across the globe, cutting- edge designers and high-end underground labels. Not to mention the genderless collections and vanguard items, next to up-and-coming international talents.
Among the coming season’s trends, the GENTLEMAN ATTIRE, mix of refined style and relaxed class. Deconstructed silhouettes, gipsy-like or classy-sporty attires. Sportswear elements with both technical and hand-crafted features. This is the wardrobe mirroring a contemporary gentleman’s aspirations, under the banner of a new-fangled comfort and way of life. The whole is imbued with the notion, also tactile, of quality, for a savoir faire & savoir vivre encompassing heritage inspirations and contemporary design.

Heritage is comforting and brings us closer to our roots. This outfit draws from the past to craft shapes and styles with vintage flair, though endowed with a contemporary twist, both in terms of style and functionality. An excellent mix of past and future for a collection parading traditional materials, with both natural and high- performance touches.
In a time of constant change, when we find ourselves being constantly monitored and monitoring our personal data, social media profiles and news, we increasingly feel the need to be in touch with objects and sensations stirring us emotionally and physically; items that can recall emotions and feelings. Clean, pure lines, though reinterpreted though prominent revers and suits with single- and double-breasted waistcoats. The mix of fabrics brings to life a novel opulence with a natural touch: extra- thin combed wool and flannel coexist, creating micro- hues and spin-striped fabrics with distanced stripes, but also checks and melted checks, light fustian fabrics and stretch woollen velvet.

 

The classic man’s wardrobe is enriched with even more future-oriented chapters designed for leisure. The panorama includes jersey for both highly-technical sweatshirts and trousers, with basic cuts and flashes of colour. Nylon stands supreme, thanks to anti-perspirant membranes and neoprene textures, excellent for extreme weather conditions. Waterproof parkas, padded waistcoats, or jersey and Lycra for ankle-high jersey sneaker: hyper-light and hyper-flexible. Tradition meets technical fabrics, classic and sporty styles merge. The items inspired from winter sports are reinterpreted and feature innovative cuts, while captivating us with their timeless style. Materials like wool and cashmere tricot, duvet, stretch and technical fabrics, pile, laminated flannels and nylon melange in a game of juxtapositions for multilayer outfits and metropolitan flair. Clean lines, woollen necks and geometric quilting make the whole set very refined. Besides athleisure, an exceptional style perfectly reproduces the synthesis between sporty and formal, creating innovative items that can be worn both at home and outdoors. New blazer takes on the shape of the classic jacket, albeit much more wearable thanks to its comfort-oriented materials.

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Spring Summer ‘18 Preview

Posted on by Redazione MANINTOWN

When work and play collide, textures, shapes and colours recombine endlessly on a white canvas, as we usher in a new season of style, charged with lightness, fun and freedom!

Photographer: Lucie Hugary
Stylist: Nicholas Galletti
Hair Stylist: Miha Oshima
Model: Marwan Anbari @ The Face

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chris burt-allan: THE MENSWEAR EXPERT

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Described as a “globe-trotting menswear guru”, Chris Burt-Allan is a travel, fashion and lifestyle influencer. What happened prior to this? A former model and with a career in strategic marketing, three years ago he decided to open his blog ‘astylishman’. After gracing the pages of the most prestigious publications and the success of his new project he decided to become a full time digital tastemaker.

How do you imagine the evolution of the social world and of your business?
All indicators point the the digital world growing indefinitely. Naturally, more and more people and brands will participate in Influencer Marketing, and the whole industry will normalise with time and scale. That said, I try and avoid situations where I am commoditised as an influencer, because that erodes value. I want to be seen as having unique value within the industry. I have no doubt that my business will develop extensively, just as it has done in the past. I am passionate about my life, fuelled by a desire for self-improvement and mastery, and am committed to sharing my journey with my audience. The fact that further opportunities come to fruition as a result of my digital relationships and skill in sharing insights is super cool. I could never walk away from that.

What is that attracts men when it comes to fashion nowadays?
Self-expression. It all comes down to messaging. Provided there’s a consciousness to it, people want to say something with their clothing. That could be ‘I’m sophisticated’, ‘I want to be respected’, ‘I’m rich’, ‘don’t mess with me’ or even ‘I don’t care about fashion’. I think it either comes down to showing who you are or what you want to be perceived as.

Favorite wardrobe staples?
Tailored swim shorts, high-waisted trousers (wool/corduroy/tweed/linen/ denim), roll-neck knits, boots and cropped jackets. I wear a lot of casual shoes. When it comes to formal I go for Church’s.
Beauty tips for men who always want to look good? Enjoy the process of looking after yourself… don’t get caught up in perfection.

Why people follow you? And why they should follow you?
You’d have to ask my followers! People should follow me if they like my vibe, my energy and want to learn more about travel, fashion and life as I see it.

Photographer| Joe Harper
Stylist| Giorgia Cantarini

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