MUST HAVE

As we begin talking about Spring/Summer 2018 we know that the warmer months entail a wardrobe of bright colours: in the summer we are more daring and more playful with our style, a less frequently occurrence in winter months. Additionally, because the historical moment we are currently facing does not always offer us daily reasons to smile, I decided to approach my regular ‘must-have’ column this season by thinking of a word that seems to have gone ‘out of fashion’: pizzazz! My choices are all in the name of colour and vivacity- if not excessive exuberance- and they bring a touch of effervescence to our outfits and, consequently, to our lives. Here you have the accessories, garments and objects of desire for Spring/Summer 2018

PALM ANGELS
We are madly in love with “The Get Down,” the Baz Luhrmann series that recounts the early days of the hip-hop scene, in Studio-54-era New York. Naturally, the b-boy tracksuit in bright colours as well as the pastels offered by Palm Angels this season seems to be one of the strongest trends of Spring/Summer 2018. Francesco Ragazzi, the Italian designer behind Palm Angels, has won public and critical approval on his second catwalk presentation last June. Sportswear has never been so cool.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE
The “Tiziano XXX” sneakers by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, an off-white calfskin high top, are up-to-the-minute modern even though they harken an old-school vibe, which makes them even more desirable thanks to their clean, minimalist style, and the hand-painted asymmetric beige XXX on the side. Rounding out this must-have sneaker are details like beige gros-grain laces, and an ultra-light white rubber sole with vicuña colored leather inset at the arch, imprinted with a heat-embossed logo.

PRADA
The son of an avid fan of the adventures of Tex Willer, I have always been a comic book reader. For years, I ranged from manga to Dylan Dog. Which is why I really loved Prada’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection, where garments and accessories employ a truly cool decorative element of images from futuristic comics. Irresistible, and of fiercely on-trend is the leather fanny pack, in comic prints, of course. Not one fashion addict isn’t already in a frenzy to get their hands on it.

PARROT POT
A flowerpot so smart it waters the plants for us? It seems incredible, but Parrot Pot, a wireless vase for both indoor and outdoor use, is capable of autonomously caring for plants, adapting to their needs by measuring via four sensors the data essential to the good health of our beloved plant- details that, for someone like me who does not have a green thumb, seem almost incomprehensible- like the humidity of the soil or the intensity of the light. Measurements can be monitored by the app Parrot Flower Power for smartphones and tablets, which can check up to 256 vases and also doles out advice from experts. It is indispensable for those who love plants but never manage to keep them alive- even the fakes ones!

ALAIN MIKLI LUNETTES
Alain Mikli Lunettes are for those who want to be noticed, wearing accessories with a striking personality, like the Ayer unisex model from the Resort 2018 collection which has a refined aesthetic, characterized by etchings and plays on volume. They made us think of the music videos of our favourite ’80s icons, and the colour of the acetate frame is the real superstar!

MARNI
It reminds me of my grandparents’ habit of strapping together packed suitcases for a trip with an old belt. Perhaps because it is so sentimental that I like this offering by Marni, in harmony with the retro mood that characterizes the work of Francesco Risso since he became Creative Director of the brand. The belt, in technical fabric with a brass buckle, is decorated with five metal brooches, while the leather bag is printed with a small boat motif, which is perfect for spring trips to the lake.

GUCCI
Perhaps unusual in men’s fashion, since becoming Creative Director of Gucci, the much-loved Alessandro Michele has now conditioned us to gender-mixing. And these shopping bags, so similar to those we’d use in the markets of certain exotic countries, have immediately won our hearts, to the point that we cannot choose just one. As always, the excellent decorative elements stand out, like writings and images from the garden and horticultural world.

HERMÈS
Not a sneakers guy but you’re tired of classic men’s shoes? The Hermès Spring/Summer 2018 moccasin is most right choice. In denim and suede, they remind us of the 1970s playboys who spent their holidays on the Côte d’Azur alongside Jane Birkin and B.B.! Don’t forget to add a scarf from the maison, to complete the look a la Gunter Sachs.

CERAMIC CACTUS
A witty and colourful addition to our homes, or an idea to liven up our desk in the office, why not? A collection of ceramic decorative objects, in the shape of a cactus, whose name is quite easy to remember: Cacti. They are from Danish brand Hay and you buy them on designrepublic.com.

SUPERDUPER HATS
SuperDuper Hats, accessories brand by Matteo Gioli and Veronica and Ilaria Cornacchini, has always been dear to us, because it has succeeded in bringing an ancient gesture- that of wearing a hat- into the habits of contemporary men and women. We were won-over once again this season with a style that brings the feeling of the lightness and dreaminess of flying far away, like a bird rising up from the headwear. For true romantics!

COACH 1941
Keith Haring’s work in the eighties and nineties left an indelible mark not only on the underground artistic scene, but also on the mainstream. We find evidence of how Haring’s graffiti art style is still so popular today in the Spring/Summer 18 collection of Coach 1941, whose creative director Stuart Vevers has placed some of the American artist’s symbolic drawings on both clothing and accessories. The sneakers and backpack where Haring’s characters are layered over a Hawaiian print are really sensational.

PENS PRODIR
For those who, like us, still love to write by hand in this increasingly technological age, four models: Twenty, Eight, Ten, and Six, in six colours- twenty-four combinations through which to convey emotion, or express ourselves. Prodir, known for its Swiss-made pens synonymous with quality, design, sustainability and durability, remind us with their collection “Me, Myself and I” by German designer Christoph Schnug, that writing is the highest expression of one’s own personality, unique and individual, representing the time we dedicate to ourselves. A true luxury for this new millennium.

GOLDEN GOOSE DELUXE BRAND
Noted for its footwear, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand’s 360-degree collection has gained many fans. We fell in love with the “perfecto” jacket, which is offered for Spring/Summer 18 in unusual colours, like total white, broken up by black graphic symbols reminiscent of tattoo art and the United States. Idem for the flamingo image which softens the symbolic biker garment, infusing it with a coolness that makes it the object of our desire.

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Cinecult: Tutti i soldi del mondo di Ridley Scott

“Tutto ha un prezzo. Lo scopo della vita è venire a patti con quel prezzo”, parola di Jean Paul Getty, il leggendario petroliere descritto magistralmente nell’ultimo film di Ridley Scott ‘Tutti i soldi del mondo’. Distribuita da Lucky Red e candidata a tre Golden Globe, la pellicola del grande regista che ha firmato capolavori come ‘Blade Runner’ e ‘Thelma e Louise’ porta sul grande schermo le trame e i retroscena di un episodio di cronaca raccapricciante del 1973: il rapimento in Italia da parte della ‘ndrangheta calabrese di John Paul Getty III, nipote prediletto del magnate del petrolio raffinato collezionista di opere d’arte e uomo d’affari senza scrupoli. Nel film lo interpreta un grandioso Christopher Plummer che incarna senza pari l’avidità e la spregiudicatezza del grande tycoon americano : un uomo duro e ambizioso che credeva di essere la reincarnazione dell’imperatore Adriano e sognava di fare della sua famiglia una dinastia. Dei suoi 14 nipoti John Paul Getty III(un efebico e inquietante Charlie Plummer davvero convincente nella parte) era quello che secondo il ricchissimo nonno doveva subentrargli sul trono del suo impero. Ma all’inizio Getty senior pensò che il sequestro del nipote a Roma fosse solo uno scherzo architettato dal ragazzo, un po’ testa calda e ribelle- cresciuto con un padre debole e tossicodipendente e una madre dai saldi principi, Abigail interpretata da una formidabile Michelle Williams- con lo scopo di trarne dei benefici economici. Ma aldilà dei sospetti della polizia italiana sulle Brigate Rosse i cui esponenti dell’epoca conoscevano bene il ragazzo rapito, in realtà il sequestro fu messo in atto dalla mafia calabrese che portò il ragazzo a Fiumara. La vicenda, ricca di colpi di scena e di momenti mozzafiato anche leggermente cruenti, vede contrapposti a Fletcher Chace ex agente della CIA e mediatore di Getty impersonato da un testosteronico e spesso contraddittorio Mark Wahlberg prima la madre del ragazzo, Gail, alla quale la Williams ha saputo infondere la grinta e la forza d’animo di una madre moderna che nel film sembra assurgere a eroina dai saldi valori, e poi ‘l’imperatore’ Getty che non credeva nella famiglia né negli esseri umani ma solo nella bellezza delle cose, per lo più opere d’arte la cui innocenza secondo Jean Paul Getty supera quella delle persone. Nell’intrigo delle vicende riccamente sfaccettate e gestite con grande sapienza registica e di sceneggiatura che rielabora il libro ‘Painfully rich’ di John Pearson spicca il lato umano del ‘male’ ovvero il rapitore Cinquanta interpretato con notevole spessore e intensità dal ‘nervoso’ Romain Duris. Il film in parte girato in Italia con un cast che schiera sul set vari attori nazionali-fra gli interpreti anche Marco Leonardi, Francesca Inaudi, Giulio Base e Nicolas Vaporidis-si presenta particolarmente suggestivo per la vibrante magniloquenza espressiva di Scott che si traduce nell’efficace luminismo e nell’uso espertissimo e sottile dell’inquadratura e per il talento degli attori, tutti perfettamente calati nei loro ruoli drammatici ma emblematici di una saga familiare che è rimasta un caso mediatico internazionale. Un film affascinante, chiaroscurale, denso di energia da thriller con interessanti risvolti umani come quelli del mitico Jean Paul Getty, rappresentato come un ‘taccagno’ dall’inestimabile patrimonio, che è anche un po’ il simbolo di una certa plutocrazia americana e della sua etica attuale.

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CARTOON RE-EDITION

“The cat is back”! The 100% made in Italy Technicolor T-shirts are the backdrop for Alessandro Enriquez’s famed FELIX THE CAT strokes. Inspired by legendary Charlot and illustrated by a team of animation wizards back in 1919, Felix has become the protagonist of 10X10 ANITALIANTHEORY’s capsule collection. Nostalgic, twinkly and pop, it celebrates the theme of Pitti Uomo 93: cinema. A painstakingly embroidered feline cameo, along with the masks of the Italian tradition, illustrated by Studio Fantasma. The main fall winter collection takes inspiration from the most beloved Carnival characters. The whole collection features the lines of the casual streetwear from the ‘80s: loose fit and armholes and primary colours, combined with premium raw materials, like cashmere in different thicknesses and Merino wool.

www.alessandroenriquez.com

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STYLE SUGGESTIONS & TRENDS FROM PITTI UOMO 93

The Despoke Dudes EyEwear

Season after season, Pitti Immagine Uomo reaffirms itself as the main international platform for the menswear collections and for the global launch of lifestyle projects. This edition features 1.230 brands, out of which 541 from abroad, covering the widest international menswear panorama; moreover, a special focus on athleisure and the boost of the sections expressing the most contemporary and cutting-edge menswear scenarios, as well as the fashion-forward areas. On stage, there are also the new generations of craftsmen from across the globe, cutting- edge designers and high-end underground labels. Not to mention the genderless collections and vanguard items, next to up-and-coming international talents.
Among the coming season’s trends, the GENTLEMAN ATTIRE, mix of refined style and relaxed class. Deconstructed silhouettes, gipsy-like or classy-sporty attires. Sportswear elements with both technical and hand-crafted features. This is the wardrobe mirroring a contemporary gentleman’s aspirations, under the banner of a new-fangled comfort and way of life. The whole is imbued with the notion, also tactile, of quality, for a savoir faire & savoir vivre encompassing heritage inspirations and contemporary design.

Heritage is comforting and brings us closer to our roots. This outfit draws from the past to craft shapes and styles with vintage flair, though endowed with a contemporary twist, both in terms of style and functionality. An excellent mix of past and future for a collection parading traditional materials, with both natural and high- performance touches.
In a time of constant change, when we find ourselves being constantly monitored and monitoring our personal data, social media profiles and news, we increasingly feel the need to be in touch with objects and sensations stirring us emotionally and physically; items that can recall emotions and feelings. Clean, pure lines, though reinterpreted though prominent revers and suits with single- and double-breasted waistcoats. The mix of fabrics brings to life a novel opulence with a natural touch: extra- thin combed wool and flannel coexist, creating micro- hues and spin-striped fabrics with distanced stripes, but also checks and melted checks, light fustian fabrics and stretch woollen velvet.


The classic man’s wardrobe is enriched with even more future-oriented chapters designed for leisure. The panorama includes jersey for both highly-technical sweatshirts and trousers, with basic cuts and flashes of colour. Nylon stands supreme, thanks to anti-perspirant membranes and neoprene textures, excellent for extreme weather conditions. Waterproof parkas, padded waistcoats, or jersey and Lycra for ankle-high jersey sneaker: hyper-light and hyper-flexible. Tradition meets technical fabrics, classic and sporty styles merge. The items inspired from winter sports are reinterpreted and feature innovative cuts, while captivating us with their timeless style. Materials like wool and cashmere tricot, duvet, stretch and technical fabrics, pile, laminated flannels and nylon melange in a game of juxtapositions for multilayer outfits and metropolitan flair. Clean lines, woollen necks and geometric quilting make the whole set very refined. Besides athleisure, an exceptional style perfectly reproduces the synthesis between sporty and formal, creating innovative items that can be worn both at home and outdoors. New blazer takes on the shape of the classic jacket, albeit much more wearable thanks to its comfort-oriented materials.


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Spring Summer ‘18 Preview

When work and play collide, textures, shapes and colours recombine endlessly on a white canvas, as we usher in a new season of style, charged with lightness, fun and freedom!

Photographer: Lucie Hugary
Stylist: Nicholas Galletti
Hair Stylist: Miha Oshima
Model: Marwan Anbari @ The Face

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chris burt-allan: THE MENSWEAR EXPERT

Described as a “globe-trotting menswear guru”, Chris Burt-Allan is a travel, fashion and lifestyle influencer. What happened prior to this? A former model and with a career in strategic marketing, three years ago he decided to open his blog ‘astylishman’. After gracing the pages of the most prestigious publications and the success of his new project he decided to become a full time digital tastemaker.

How do you imagine the evolution of the social world and of your business?
All indicators point the the digital world growing indefinitely. Naturally, more and more people and brands will participate in Influencer Marketing, and the whole industry will normalise with time and scale. That said, I try and avoid situations where I am commoditised as an influencer, because that erodes value. I want to be seen as having unique value within the industry. I have no doubt that my business will develop extensively, just as it has done in the past. I am passionate about my life, fuelled by a desire for self-improvement and mastery, and am committed to sharing my journey with my audience. The fact that further opportunities come to fruition as a result of my digital relationships and skill in sharing insights is super cool. I could never walk away from that.

What is that attracts men when it comes to fashion nowadays?
Self-expression. It all comes down to messaging. Provided there’s a consciousness to it, people want to say something with their clothing. That could be ‘I’m sophisticated’, ‘I want to be respected’, ‘I’m rich’, ‘don’t mess with me’ or even ‘I don’t care about fashion’. I think it either comes down to showing who you are or what you want to be perceived as.

Favorite wardrobe staples?
Tailored swim shorts, high-waisted trousers (wool/corduroy/tweed/linen/ denim), roll-neck knits, boots and cropped jackets. I wear a lot of casual shoes. When it comes to formal I go for Church’s.
Beauty tips for men who always want to look good? Enjoy the process of looking after yourself… don’t get caught up in perfection.

Why people follow you? And why they should follow you?
You’d have to ask my followers! People should follow me if they like my vibe, my energy and want to learn more about travel, fashion and life as I see it.

Photographer| Joe Harper
Stylist| Giorgia Cantarini

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