By Davide Musto – 23 Gennaio 2020
By Davide Musto – 23 Gennaio
Photo: Davide Musto
Stylist: Stefano Guerrini
Grooming: Domenico Mastrodicasa
Photographer assistant’s: Federico Taddonio e Dario Tucci
Stylist’s assistants: Elisa Maria Montanaro e Greta Tedeschi
Talent: Francesco Ferdinandi @Alex Pacifico
Special thanks to Palazzo Brancaccio – Spazio Field
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Chronicles from a submerged city was born in favor of the Fallani Venice screen printing to support the restarting of activities following the high water that hit the lagoon city on 12 November 2019 reaching 187 cm.
After this exceptional event, the desire is to look ahead and start again, resuming daily activities, this spirit gave life to this project thanks to a series of friends close to the screen printing workshops who involved a series of illustrators, new and old acquaintances by Fallani, asking them to create a graphic linked to the city of Venice.
Bruno Bozzetto, Ale Giorgini, Riccardo Guasco, Franco Matticchio, Andy Rementer, Jacopo Rosati, Guido Scarabottolo, Lucio Schiavon and Olimpia Zagnoli have decided to donate their own work to screen printing so as to allow Gianpaolo, deus ex-machina of this reality, to resume printing with new editions and replace damaged materials.
The illustrations are available in pre-order on https://fallanivenezia.bigcartel.com/, in a limited edition of 50 numbered and signed by the artists, which can be purchased individually or in the folder.
If you are in Venice you can also go to discover the artisanal silk-screen laboratory, active since 1968, and discover the printing process of the project. Nearby you can take advantage of it for a stop in one of these places:
Alla vedova
Ramo Ca’ d’Oro, 3912
Bar/Hostel Combo
Campo dei Gesuiti, 4878
Rosa Salva pastry shop
Calle Giazzo, 6779
Osteria Del Ricio Peoco
Strada Nova, Campo S.S. Apostles, 4462
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The vision of men’s fashion through the eye of women with attention to the environment that surrounds us outlines the perfect mindset of the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX autumn/winter 2020/2021 collection designed by Alessandro Sartori.
If the goal is to make the new generations wear tailoring, the first step is certainly to integrate it with elements similar to their culture, through the experimentation of technical fabrics mixed with recycled wool and cashmere capable of creating new modern and cutting-edge tailoring silhouettes.
A cube suspended in the center of a former Milanese foundry created by the New York artist Anne Patterson with ribbons made from Zegna fabric scraps, recreates an illusion of color and movement to accentuate Alessandro Sartori’s philosophy on the real use of recycled materials, this which could be thrown away, therefore, becomes pure art.
From a dreamlike scenario, the young Zegna men appear with a determined step, reinventing tailoring with the return of the Vest used even only with a shirt, overshirt with zip, a cross-body bag inspired by the world of contemporary photography and the collaboration with Leica, historian German brand manufacturer of cameras and optics, gives life to bags, accessories and shoulder straps for the camera, the beginning of a project between the two brands that will lead to the development of a photographic exhibition entitled “modern masculinity”.
At the center of this collection, we find Alessandro Sartori’s experimentation in multiple forms from the special selection of hand-woven materials developed with the community of San Patrignano to the play of metamorphosis of textures and shapes enhanced by a palette of neutral shades.
The look at the young cultures close to him and their attention to eco-friendly makes the iconic Biella brand a mix of simplicity and functionality that reminds us that fashion has to respect our planet.
Text by Francesco Vavallo – @francesco_vavallo
Film by Simone Santus – @simomlcrw
Powered by LOOK MI – @ lookmi.it
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A new type of luxury. An almost emotional luxury, capable of representing not so much a social status, but our belonging to a tribe of style increasingly similar to an extended family, where everyone is registered in the same fanzine. And this word is not used by chance because these new objects of desire are all a bit retro’, old school, children of a nostalgia for a period that in reality part of the public to which they are addressed has not lived. As well as the excesses of color, above all the use of purple for the men’s wardrobe, refer to an energizing and revitalizing chromotherapy. Fashion thus acquires reassuring and thaumaturgical aspects, which open up to new paths. Starting from the past.
By Ermenegildo Zegna the ‘must-have’ dress in technical satin fabric #UseTheExisting with multicolored spots on a light obsidian purple base, consisting of a soft-shoulders jacket with iconic couture lapels and slim-fit pants without darts. Oversized knit T-shirt with a wide neckline. Geometric-model glasses with light frame in metal and acetate. Ankle boots with zip in Warsaw gray leather.
Michael J. Fox and Rob Lowe portrayed by Richard Berstein in pure Warhol style for the covers of Interview. And the sweatshirt and the cotton tank top by Coach 1941, become supercool and a lot desirable tributes to the Eighties!
It reminds us of certain seaside vacations in the 1970s, between Ibiza and Saint Tropez, the sandal with sand-colored suede bands by Santoni. So chic!
From the super-loved Gucci designed by Alessandro Michele a document holder in red leather with Horsebit detail. And you can go to work with style and an electrifying spirit
Bally‘s leather bag with hiking style details, not necessarily only for weekends in the high mountains.
The Marni shopping bag from the s/s 2020 Men’s collection is in PVC with leather handles. The detail of the drawings of plastic bottles recalls an eco-friendly spirit that is totally essential today.
They make us think of american colleges, a touch of “Grease” style, a bit of “The rules of attraction” by Bret Easton Ellis, where the main protagonists are the cheerleaders and the rugby players. Here are the Sneakers in cotton gabardine by Prada: new objects of desire.
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Escaping to Paradise it is a natural instinct for those living in the Northern hemisphere, especially during those dreadful long cold winters.
Natural beauty, lush forests, palms for miles and waves for the brave: this is what Costa Rica has to offer.
This winter, right at the end of the rainy season, we took a trip from our hub in New York to visit the very acclaimed Trip Advisor best hotel in 2019: Tulemar in Quepos, on the Pacific side.
Arriving in San Jose’ at the airport, where alas not much can be found, we were greeted by our private Tulemar driver, sent from the resort to rescue us from the noise of the Capital and take us to the area of Manuel Antonio, home of Tulemar and also of one of the most amazing natural parks and ecosystems.
Within 3 hours drive through the only “national carrettera” (in Costa Rica there is one national highway that runs throughout the country connecting relevant cities and towns like a major aorta), we reached the lusher and tourist-friendly Quepos region.
The green surrounding, the infinite beaches and lush rainforests are definitely some of the reasons why this area needs to be on your bucket list.
But this is not just it, as you may not yet know that Tulemar, on top of being gracefully built within the ecosystem with his private jungle bungalows and villas, it is also home of something fantastic: the Sloth Institute since 2015.
TSI is a non-profit organization with the mission to enhance the well-being and conservation of wild and captive sloths through research and education. They are also dedicated to collaborating with other sloth rehabilitation and release programs.
Tulemar hosts some of the species in its lush and peaceful protected environment and offers educational walks to guests and other visitors upon reservation. We took the tour and it was quite fascinating. The rescued sloths, roam freely (but not fast so to speak) in fact around the property, and some were visible even as a guest at one of the Café’ within the property, on our first night there, almost as magically they knew we had come all the way from another country to write about them.
The area of Quepos/Manuel Antonio is actually a real treat for nature lovers. The park of Manuel Antonio, which is a few km from the resort also offers magnificent VIP tours for those who care about knowing more about the ecosystems as well as the behavior of the animals who reside in the park. We took a 2 hours walk through the park with a specialized guide and it was worth it all the way!
Tulemar is one of a kind resort with 4 pools, a private beach, private villas as well as cozy bungalows, all immersed in a Jurassic Park like environment for the nature lovers with a taste for luxurious pampering and adventure.
The service at Tulemar falls within the rhythm of the place and the Pura Vida style, everything is as it should be when on vacation, by a friendly staff smoothly coordinating shuttle rides to the beach and back or delivery for room service in those lazy mornings where watching palm trees for capuchin monkeys sipping delicious coffee by a private pool is on the top to dos.
We highly recommend organizing a tour of the property with your own personal concierge as assigned to each guest upon arrival (yes a personal concierge for your stay, isn’t that marvelous!), and that you spend your mornings either at the private lovely bay that is one of the gems on-site or at one of the pools when you are not exploring the park of Manuel Antonio. For the more adventurous types, there is a little hiking trail on both sides of the bay that leads down to the wonderfully secluded beach.
Costa Rica tips/should know:
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Not only fashion shows in this Milano Moda Uomo autumn winter 2020 2021, but also presentations scattered in the coolest locations of the city. Waiting for spring, we went to find out in preview what the key pieces will be for next year.
Zegna
In a geometric forest of threads, the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Winter 2020 collection materializes. A redefinition of tailoring outlines the spirit of the season, while tailoring know-how is explored in new hybrid directions. The silhouette is clean and layered; the layering of the garments is accentuated; ergonomic details such as patch pockets add a functional note. The three-button suits with slightly squared one and a half breasted jackets and tight trousers at the bottom are worn with voluminous blousons; the overshirts with zip and deep neckline replace the traditional shirts. The tailored vest makes its comeback as a passe-partout, with or without the suit. The constant evolution process defines the new forms we saw on the catwalk.
Kiton
The Kiton Men’s Fall / Winter 2020/21 collection enhances the suit as an icon of elegance and sobriety, offering a new stylistic interpretation. Deconstructed and modeled to be worn by men on different occasions, the dress is combined with a formal turtleneck or a denim shirt, broken together with perfect-fit jeans, which has become the iconic garment of the latest collections, cotton trousers and sneakers. Elegance is relaxed, also thanks to the new textures and innovative fibers that Kiton cleverly develops in his Biella wool mill.
Dondup
Masculine and feminine. Tradition and innovation. These are the cornerstones on which the creative studio Dondup worked to design the new winter collections. An analysis that finds its distinctive code in the relationship between man and woman, between craftsmanship and research. The meeting area is the tailoring world: the suggestions at Savile Row, with traditional fabrics, marry the mastery of the “Made in Italy” production.
Brett Johnson
Brett Johnson with the new collection wanted to create a wardrobe designed for every modern cosmopolitan traveler. A celebration of masculine elegance through contemporary aesthetic codes designed to transit, with the same aplomb chic, for New York like Milan or Monte Carlo. Craftsmanship is an essential element for the entire collection, as well as the excellence of the material. The garments are made using materials such as vicuña (both knitted and textured), 14-micron cashmere, a technical effect fabric made of pure silk, Sea Island cotton, suede cashmere and crocodile.
Giuseppe Zanotti
For the Autumn/Winter 2020 season, Giuseppe Zanotti evolves and renews the very concept of elegance. His proposal is versatile, dynamic, with a wide scope and strong stylistic content. The formal day line makes its way between materials rich in textures and iconic details. English classicism marries the graphic dimension, giving life to a young and creative expression. Chelsea boots and moccasins dress the new thanks to the meeting with plexi, futuristic and unusual heels, or to the addition of elegant country buckles. The color choice is solid and material: greased crusts, soft leathers and prints are colored in red, plum, black, bottle green, dark brown.
Marcelo Burlon
Distortion is the watchword for autumn-winter 20/21. Deformed flowers – created by Mirko Borsche – folk motifs, allover liquefied pied-de-poule motifs create psychedelic effects on bomber jackets, jacquard sweaters, shirts, padded anoraks, sweatshirts and shorts. The way in which pockets and details are applied to the pieces is also distorted, while contrast stitching creates another level of distortion. The reflective duvets, the single-breasted jackets and the bomber jackets covered with Swarovski crystals are designed to shine and dazzle. The color palette is a fusion of stone, brown, musk, sesame, black illuminated by a dazzling blue and colored prints.
MSGM E CULT
A really cool partnership between CULT, a glam brand with a rock soul born in 1987, and MSGM, the first Made in Italy designer brand, designed by Massimo Giorgetti. The special collaboration was presented during the MSGM fashion show at the Calabiana Hub. Two brands that marry the same values: freedom of expression, independence, irreverence. The BOLT, the iconic steel-tipped amphibian of CULT that has made the history of footwear for rockers and beyond, has been revisited by MSGM in an unconventional key.
ICEBERG
The location chosen by the ICEBERG Creative Director James Long for the Fall-Winter 2020 men’s collection show could not better represent this visionary party: “the Alcatraz”, a historic Milanese club that bears the name of the most famous prison in the world. The same multi-lingual patrol of ICEBERG breaks the rules and joins the party. The “overseers” with their reflective uniforms lose their austerity and join the ravers.
SPYDER
Spyder invites you to face the challenges of everyday life with a bold and cheeky spirit. In the gym, on the field or in the city streets, he sides with all those who have a courageous heart, a clear mind and limitless tenacity. A dynamic and energetic vibe characterizes the Performance collection for the next cold season. The bold iconography of street art influences the graphic appeal of the collection, which at the same time guarantees excellent performance and the right dose of urban style.
HB KONG
40 looks, one for each year from the founding of the brand to today, celebrate the launch of KB HONG. KB HONG’s debut collection is inspired by retro-futurism, the contemporary artistic current that draws inspiration from the way the future was imagined in the 1950s and 1960s. Its translation in the fashion field is transposed into a design characterized by the combination of retro and futuristic elements.
Le Tasca
Le Tasca con la collezione FW 20-21 prosegue la sua esplorazione nel mondo dell’abbigliamento, raccontandosi attraverso l’attitudine “utlitaristica” delle sue proposte. Un linguaggio formale e funzionale che traduce il respiro di chi viaggia ed esplora la città con “le mani libere”. Un total look che prende il posto dell’accessorio: le tasche piccole, grandi o grandissime possono contenere i nostri oggetti e Le Tasca diventa divisa del vestire contemporaneo.
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Street meets couture It is in the sign of syncretism between high fashion and fabulous ghetto looks that Moschino by Jeremy Scott debuts on the catwalk in New York.
After the Cinecittà en plein of January 2019 in tribute to Fellini’s visionary cinema, the location is still one that is not easily forgotten: that genius of Scott, for the brand’s first time in the Big Apple, has chosen New York Brooklyn Transit Museum, where a few days ago, as in a subway car, both the women’s pre-collection and the irreverent proposals dedicated to him paraded, in full osmosis with the wardrobe for the Moschino girls.
Trompe l’oeil zippers and maxi bags in the shape of a 90s stereo but also many fanciful accessories accompany the co-and more iconoclastic outfits of the American designer that some define the reincarnation of the transgressive and exhilarating Franco Moschino.
Black culture is intertwined with the haughty and classy style of the young ladies of Park Avenue, played down in a succession of anti-sweat but very tailored styles.
The nail, another iconic element of Moschino’s iconography, acquires a new grit thanks to precious workings such as cobwebs of golden chains embroidered on the skin and showy metalwork very rock but also a bit Toy Boy because Jeremy Scott looks at the hard aesthetics of the leather bar where gay pros of the ‘clone generation’ gathered in the late 80s in the infamous clubs created by the butchers of the Meat Packing district.
Everything is magnified, exasperated, for a blaring mood that is never taken seriously in harmony with the weltanschauung of this irreverent brand that has given so much luster to the rise of Made in Italy.
Rap music and R’n’B, along with the deafening noises of New York subways, mark the rhythm of the lives of those who have chosen to live in the city that never sleeps.
While the vamp jewel fourreau give a new look to the bewitching outfits designed for Cher by Bob Mackie, Elton John’s costume designer before Gianni Versace, the body-conscious tailcoats from rebellious baronet and the bomber wink at Ray Petri’s Buffalo Style with lots of golden chains of order, including cargo pants, color block anoraks and comfortable full-color suits turned in feminine tones.
The stereo prints are reminiscent of a more analogical era, when, in the summer heat, New Yorkers could sit on the entrance steps and listen to the songs of past summers, as in Spike Lee’s films, in the Harlem of the 90s.
Cult details: the giant “Bic” style lighters suggest the shapes of the evening bags (large enough to contain not only a pack of cigarettes but an entire carton), while the tweed flirts with denim, the grisaille becomes sporty chic and workwear outfits become hyper glamorous to the delight of members of the Moschino Community.
It is the energy of Manhattan but also of the underground scene that brings together boys and girls ready to mix and have fun in the asphalt jungle with provocative irony and trash couture made artfully for épater les bourgeois. Next stop: Moschino street. Stay tuned.
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Each season Pitti Uomo brings over 1,200 exhibitors to Florence, which becomes the showcase and seismograph of men’s and global lifestyle trends. We have chosen 10 brands that have particularly impressed us for the impact of their events, planning and collection.
Karl Lagerfeld
For the second time, after edition of last June, the brand is present at the Fortezza da Basso with its new collection of rtw, accessories and a special project entitled “A tribute to Karl: the white shirt project ”, Edited by Carine Roitfeld.
These are various white shirts, rethought and reworked by historical friends of the Kaiser, such as Kate Moss, Cara Delevigne or Lewis Hamilton. The textured skins of trousers and jackets are splendid, which will be all the rage for next winter.
Herno
Herno presents its new “Globe” project, synonymous with sustainability and craftsmanship: the utmost importance for the origin of the raw materials, the development of new production techniques and respect for the environment.
In a green and very relaxing location, duvets, bomber jackets and biodegradable jackets are born, which decompose after 5 years if thrown into landfills, or those obtained with regenerated materials derived from waste material.
Borsalino
Borsalino’s challenge is to update an accessory such as the hat, considered retro and obsolete. It does it very well, offering the classic “Bogart” in a modern key or merging the world of fashion with the artistic world of the Renaissance or the English movement of “Arts and crafts”.
The result is a very interesting search for shapes and materials, in which the classic English Scottish blend with animal print velvet, paint and fake fur. Funny is the tribute to Raphael, five hundred years after his death.
Tagliatore
Refinement is one of Tagliatore’s trademarks: starting from a warm and spicy palette, which then turns to gray and black, the silhouette plays on the harmony between the oversized coats and the tightest jackets and pants.
Particular attention to the chamber jacket, treated and built as if it were a couture coat, with sophisticated details and enveloping shapes.
Lardini
Lardini relaunches the formal and the classic with a special collaboration with the designer Yosuke Aizawa, founder of Mountaneering.
Wrapped in a Nordic and glacial atmosphere, the new fashion is the result of innovative contamination between practicality and innovation, between classicism and dynamism.
Brioni
A Visconti atmosphere in Palazzo Gerini, one of the few seventeenth-eighteenth-century buildings located in Florence: thanks to Olivier Saillard, who was able to translate the celebrations of the 75th anniversary of the Roman brand into a real path in culture, between fashion and classic music.
The preciousness of the finest velvets, leathers and wools, declined in classic shapes and with a romantic flavor, designed by the Austrian Norbert Stumpfl, perfectly match the models-musicians who accompany us in the six rooms of the building, among the notes of Debussy, Satie and Monteverdi. A delicate, cultured and not rowdy masculine elegance concept, in total contrast with what we have seen elsewhere.
K way
At the historic Stock Exchange, the apothesis of outerwear is staged: colorful, practical, fun, pop, technological. Starting from the historic slogan “Let it rain”, the brand celebrates its 55th year of activity by showing off a myriad of proposals for all needs, from basic (not surprisingly it is owned by the Basicnet group) to proposals rich in technical details.
Jil Sander
In the cloister of Santa Maria Novella, a new chapter is inaugurated by a stylistic couple of the Meier spouses, who studied and met in Florence. A bright and monastic atmosphere at the same time, where the simplicity of the lines, the amplitude of the volumes, the neutrality of the palette are the masters.
Everything is whispered, hinted at: the rigor of austere coats refined by subtle embroideries and applications, the most refined fabrics combined with the most natural ones, a royal eagle that rests on pins and necklaces.
Telfar
The brand founded by Telfar Clemens speaks of melting between cultures, genres and styles: the Tuscan Renaissance, so well embodied by the splendid Palazzo Corsini. The female merges with the male, the 400 with the street culture of African Americans, the pirate style (so dear to Vivienne) with the biker look.
A somewhat confused and chaotic fashion, where however the beauty of the skin reigns, which is found in biker jackets and especially in tight and seductive pants.
Random Identities
On the notes of a cover of “I’m every woman” by Whitney Houston, the fashion of the ex creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, a real and proper rtw conceived for the digital era, takes the stage. A fluid, radical fashion that annihilates the barriers between male and female, between ephebic physicists and curvy beauties, between youth and maturity.
Freedom and inclusion are the keywords of this lexicon, where men wear knee-length skirts, lace bras over English shirts, oversized sweaters put upside down. The catwalk is closed by Pilati himself, in a beautiful camel coat, white pants and riding boots. The constant provocation is tempered by the choice of clean lines, the dominant monochromatism and the sparse and industrial location of Stazione Leopolda.
By Alessandro Martinelli
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Let’s discover whit the Creative Director Raffaele Caldarelli, a total look brand that is growing internationally.
Tell us about your professional background before Antony Morato
I started working on women managing a structure that produced collections for other companies, this helped me a lot in understanding the needs of contemporary fashion and the innovations in terms of materials, combinations of fabrics and details of the finished product. When I founded Antony Morato in 2007, I felt the need to create an individual project: I transferred the knowledge acquired from the experience with the female market adapting it to the needs of contemporary male fashion by developing my personal vision of fashion.
How did you launch the brand and which philosophy best describes it?
Given my previous experiences, it would have been natural and logical to start with women’s clothing, but when I launched the brand, I realized by conducting a market analysis, that in men’s fashion what was missing was a concept that had been already rooted in women’s: the smart luxury. A ‘democratic fashion’ with a product rich in fashion contents, typical of the world of luxury. This is why I decided to take the opportunity that the market offered at the time by proposing a brand that could bring the most demanding male consumers closer to fashion. Which are the most iconic and recognizable garments of your brand More than a single garment, I would speak of an approach to the total look I like to propose in each collection and that well defines the brand’s identity and aesthetics. I refer to the concept of “Soft Tailoring” which consists in combining a pair of tailored trousers with a t-shirt or a pair of sneakers. In this context, the casual garment is the ingredient that “softens” the formality of a classic look, giving a contemporary touch to the final proposal.
What is the added value of being an Italian brand?
DNA and Italian heritage, seen as consolidated traditions and cultural roots in the fashion industry, influence each Antony Morato collection in terms of respect for an elegant and unique style and a specific taste on the wearability and workmanship of the garments. Naples, in particular, is also one of the most cosmopolitan cities and our international DNA, open to new trends, originates precisely from this cultural and social melting-pot.
How is the brand evolving internationally?
After 12 years of gradual growth we now want to strengthen the markets in which we are already present – such as Italy, Spain, the Netherlands, Germany, France, China and India – in order to increase and consolidate brand awareness and sales potential. A further goal for the next few years is to guarantee complete sustainability at any company level: we have already started with an ecological approach to industry 4.0 by creating a new logistics hub in Piacenza that is completely eco-sustainable and represents an avant-garde in the sector as it has a low environmental impact guaranteed by the production of energy through magnetism. A small preview on the next collection The fall winter 2020/2021 collection reinvents the metropolitan look thanks to a mix of innovation and reinterpretation of the brand’s DNA. Spacing between four fashion themes, each with a precise inspiration – from punk / grunge to sartorial sport in a college key – the collection does not renounce the brand’s heritage, with the Timeless line, which offers contemporary elegance, made of minimal and references to the retro world.
What can you tell us for 2020?
Our main goal is to shorten the distance between brand and consumer more and more. Precisely for this reason we thought of giving life to a new way of presenting our collections that is innovative and that represents a moment of encounter between stakeholders and the final consumer. On January 7, 2020 we will host an evening dedicated to the combination of tradition and modernity. At the Auditorium Santo Stefano al Ponte, we will unveil the new autumn collection in an unusual way: a videomapping representation in which the contemporary and underground mood, typical of the brand’s heritage, will be reinterpreted thanks to details and inspirations that refer to the tailoring tradition of the past. A new project that we hope will have continuity for the coming seasons.
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