Two Months Post-Mortem, Kobe Bryant Has Been Nominated To Basketball Hall of Fame

Two months after Kobe Bryant’s death, the NBA star is receiving his sport’s greatest honour. Bryan has been appointed to lead this year’s Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame class. The announcement was made formally Saturday on ESPN.

Bryant was a five-time NBA star and the fourth all-time leading scorer in league history, winning two Olympic gold medals. The 2020 class may epitomise one of the most glorious ever in basketball history. The late Laker will be enshrined along with Tim Duncan, Kevin Garnett, and Women’s NBA star Tamika Catchings. 

In a conversation with ESPN, Kobe’s widow Vanessa Bryant told ESPN: ““It’s an incredible accomplishment and honour. We’re extremely proud of him. Obviously, we wish he was here with us to celebrate.” She described the inauguration “the peak of his NBA career” and remarked that “there’s some solace knowing that he was probably going to be part of the 2020 Hall of Fame class.”

The Class of 2020 will be hallowed on August 29 in Springfield, Massachusetts.

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Interview to the brand strategist Yossi Fisher: the fashion system after Covid-19

We have interviewed Yossi Fisher, a brand consultant and brand strategist who also in this delicate period is carrying out international projects with costumers and associations. Here some reflections related to the phase that the fashion system is going through.

You are connected with many creative people around the world. What is the general sentiment of the people about this moment?

There are a lot of emotions circulating these days, and respectfully so.  There’s no denying the uncertainty of these times. What I’m noticing is while some are seeing the troubles it’s causing in their careers or businesses, the majority of those people are using this time as a way of re-assessing what truly makes them happy, and what they want to return to – or not, when this is all over. Ultimately,  it seems to be a time of great reflection, and people are using it as a way to step back and redefine the values their careers and businesses are built on, and their progressive relevance – or lack there of, as we move towards navigating a whole new set of industry landscapes.

How do you think the fashion system will overcome the crisis and rethink its models?

The fashion system is now forced to take a massive step back and re-asses itself in its entirety. Everything from freelance structures to content, production to manufacturing, retail to design and all the way though to Live streaming, Fashion Weeks, PR dynamics, and digital initiatives … and that’s just the tip of the iceberg. As a system all of its components effect the Fashion Economy and how the industry operates as a whole. The entire idea of Fashion will be forced to take a massive step backwards in order for it to move forward. As a collective industry we all have felt in one way or another how broken it’s all become, but there was nothing truly driving change across all of its channels until now, making this a very exciting time.

In my opinion, there’s too much romance and idealism and not enough practicality in the system. I believe this crisis will be the catalyst for healthier business practices, as well as a stimulus for mental health initiatives, especially within freelance and creative communities. Many within those circles are already rethinking why they’ve put themselves through so much financial uncertainty and lack of job stability for so long.

As they find new interests and hobbies that make them happier during this forced pause, many are questioning what exactly it is they’re going to want to do after this is all over. Regarding Businesses, they will need to humanise their practices even further, and will have to face massive questions like; whether trading off ethical values for higher margins and selling more products is emotionally or environmentally sustainable, and how their supply chains and practices will be scrutinized by their consumers as people’s values and humanities change. Many feel that sustainability will be a driving force forward, but even that has its challenges; especially how it tends to price out many consumers who share its values, but can’t afford the slow fashion price points.

As we enter a world with less people employed, and strained finances, many businesses are going to have to strategically reframe their losses if they plan on getting ahead of the curve and have a hand in redefining the industry.

How do u see the future of the retail (physical stores vs digital?)

We are very far away from a completely online world but we are evolving for sure, there’s no question. Physical and digital will both play a massive part in the future of retail, but they will both have to be much more consumer centric. Physical spaces may need to downsize, integrate more digital components, hold less stock, and treat their spaces more as experiential than just a place to shop.

Dynamic in-store brand experiences that revolve more around their culture than products will be a good way to keep consumers coming back, which will usher in the opportunity for much more dynamic collaborations. Online digital initiatives will have to become more personal as well though. Currently E-com shopping lacks personalization and engaging emotional prompts, so having brand specialists go live with scheduled showings, presentations, and collection run-throughs (one on one with VIP’s or mass sessions, where consumers can chime in with questions to better understand their purchases) will be a great way to deepen community, trust and drive D2C conversations.

We will certainly witness more confusion and market disruptions while everyone finds their bearings. Physical retail may need to scale back to invest finances deeper in to their ecosystem, while the Digital realm may require more testing investment as the depths of its foundations and structures are still being explored. I believe the brands that will win he next 6-18 months will be the ones promoting more ethically driven, consumer-centric businesses models.

You started some live conversations with designers and entrepreneurs. What did u get from these dialogues?

I have really enjoyed the IG-Live Talks & Zoom Sessions I’ve been a part of during these times. It’s allowed me to share tips, strategies, and insights with so many communities and platforms (like here on MANINTOWN). More than anything though, I’ve really been using those opportunities to really listen to the ones I’ve been engaging with and the questions I’ve been receiving from our collective followings.

Taking an empathetic approach to these conversations has allowed me to forecast what the world will need post Covid-19. One thing I’ve noticed to be a constant though is the human approach in how these LIVE Talks have been playing out. We’re all vulnerable to these massive global shifts, and it’s obvious just how interconnected we all are. Everyone needs to remember that although we are all going through our own set of challenges, we truly are all in this together. Social media and online communities are offering support in many different forms, and that has really been beautiful to see.

What is your advice for the companies and brands to restart?

EQ is now more important than IQ. The future of companies and brands won’t be products or services; it will be empathy. Leading with empathy at this time and perpetually forward will fundamentally be the most important tool at our disposal.

The humans and businesses that are going to come out of this on-top are the ones that aren’t solely focussing on their problems, but rather on how to solve the ones everyone else is facing. For example; many people have been, and unfortunately will continue to lose their jobs.

As a boutique, perhaps a good idea would be to create a campaign initiative for people that have recently found themselves unemployed, offering a complete outfit (suiting, etc.) + a CV consultation (perhaps serviced through an outsourced professional). That way when businesses open up and start hiring again, these people will be ready and well equipped to hit the market and better their lives again. Consider this a stronger shift towards a Giving Economy.

If you’re a CBD company, perhaps integrate in to your culture a meditation series, exercise video’s, journaling tips, healthy eating to promote clean bodies, etc. Look at ways to help others with their mental health right now. Provide free structured self betterment initiatives, provide resources to nurture and support people’s mental spaces. Both those ideas show that your business actually cares, and that’s what people need now more than ever.

Innovating consumer appreciation initiatives across physical and digital channels will fundamentally compound success rates over time, deepen community appreciation, and strengthen customer relations.

To offer a starting point strategy, Businesses should be asking question like; what do our consumers care about,  what would elevate their lives, and how can we express to them that our values align with theirs? How do we do it in a way that isn’t a direct sell? How we do we humanise our approach?

These are the types of healthy, empathetic actions needed not only to restore our trust in brands, but more importantly, our faith in humanity.

yossifisher.com; IG: @yossi_fisher

Photographed by nathanrichardsphoto.com; IG: @nathanrichardsphoto

Nike Shuts Largest Circulation Centre As Employee Contracts Coronavirus

On the 2ND of April 2020, Nike sharply closed its largest distribution center in Frayser, Tennesse after an employee tested positive for Coronavirus. The 2.8 million-square-foot facility is where most of the brand’s sneakers are shipped out of and is now implemented with a scrupulous disinfection process.  

In an official statement to MLK50, Nike remarked the following: “The health and safety of our team is always our first priority. We have temporarily closed one of our Memphis, TN, distribution facilities. During this period, we will be conducting a comprehensive disinfection process. We are targeting to reopen at 6 a.m. Sunday, April 5.”

According to the report, employees were informed that one of them had tested positive for the virus, leaving such case with a decision to shut down facilities after a Meeting of that same day. Workers were informed that they would continue to be paid during the temporary closure and were handed a hotline number to seek for further assistance.

The North American Logistic Campus in Frayser is Nike’s largest in the world and one of the most crucial locations of the brand’s online commerce operations. It remains to be seen how this temporary closure will affect Nike’s distribution worldwide. 

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Apple Releases Cheaper Version Of iPhone SE

Apple has officially announced the cheapest handset of its range, the iPhone SE. Starting at around £320, the device comes in black, white, and red, available for pre-orders from Friday, April 17. 

The iPhone serves as the second generation of the iPhone SE. Its features a 4.7-inch Retina HD display and Touch ID while powered by Apple’s A13 Bionic, which is the fastest chip in a smartphone. According to Apple, the phone boasts the best single camera system to date in an iPhone.

The iPhone SE is constructed with aerospace-grade aluminium and durable glass. It’s water resistant up to one meter for 30 minutes and also dust resistant. The home button on the phone is designed with sapphire crystal, featuring a steel ring that is able to detect a user’s fingerprint for touch ID. The single-camera system includes a 12-megapixel f/1.8 aperture wide camera with Portrait mode, six Portrait Lighting effects, and Depth Control. Smart HDR relights objects in a frame to offer a more natural look to the image. The rear camera can capture a video at 4K up to 60fps, while QuickTake video on the front and rear cameras allows someone to record a video without leaving Photo mode.

The iPhone can be charged wirelessly with Qi-certified chargers. Fast-charging provides the phone with up to a 50 percent charge in just 30 minutes. Users can also adopt the dual sim modality to have two separate lines on the same number, but on the same device. 

It comes in storage capacities of 64GB, 128GB, and 256GB.

Burberry Supplies Vaccine Research and Converts Its Unit In Aid Of Global Covid-19 Crisis

Burberry dedicates its resources to support global efforts in combatting covid-19 outbreak. The brand has pledged to hep fund University of Oxford’s research into a single-dose vaccine and has planned on donating to various charities to help tackle crisis in food and poverty across the UK.

“The whole team at Burberry is very proud to be able to support those who are working tirelessly to combat COVID-19, whether by treating patients, working to find a vaccine solution or helping provide food supplies to those in need at this time,” stated Burberry’s CEO Marco Gobbetti.

However, the philanthropic move goes on. On top of distributing 100,000 surgical masks to the NHS, the company has also pledged to repurpose its iconic Yorkshire unit to manufacture non-surgical gowns and masks for medical workers and patients cross-globally. 

LVMH’s 2020 Prize Has Been Cancelled (Yet, The Six-Figure Sum Was Treated Effectively)

As the seventh edition of the annual LVMH Prize for emerging designers is imminent, in light of the current pandemic status, all has been cancelled.

The six-figure sum (which amounts to €300,000 prize) has been split between the eight finalists, meaning that each will be able to enjoy the cash reward. The designers in question are: Casablanca, Ahluwalia, Peter Do, Chopova Lowena, Nicholas Daley, Sindiso Khumalo, Supriya Lele, and Tomo Koizumi will all get a share of the bounty.

Luxury Conglomerate LVMH has also set up a fund to support young fashion designers that will be available to all previous winners of the LVMH Prize from previous editions (Marine Serre, Jacquemus and others). The fund will be mostly complemented with the remaining Prize money from this year’s Karl Lagerfeld prize, which is the competition’s equivalent of second place. 

Delphine Arnault said in a statement: “Since its launch, the LVMH Prize has promoted and nurtured young talent. Each year, it places the spotlight on young designers from all over the world and supports the development of their companies. In this challenging context, this Fund in aid of young fashion designers highlights the main mission of the LVMH Prize by supporting our former winners.”

New Balance Manufactures Face Masks In Its U.S. Unit – Everything You Need To Know

New Balance has began producing face masks in response to the current covid-19 crisis. The footwear brand made it clear via an Instagram post, showing an image of a mask and the call out “Made shoes yesterday, Making masks today.”

The Boston-hailed label has teamed up to join brands such as Nike – which has commenced prototyping personal protective equipment (PPE) – in the coronavirus relief effort. It has also recently pledged $2 million to support efforts made on local, regional and global levels, mainly affected by the pandemic. 

“We are producing prototypes for face masks in our Lawrence, MA manufacturing facility,” the footwear brand has said in a press release, adding, “and [we] hope to scale production using our other New England factories soon.”

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Zegna Group Donates €3 Million In Aid Of Coronavirus

Italian luxury menswear association Zegna has joined forces in the fight against Coronavirus. The Zegna group, together with the label’s senior management have pledged a 3 million euros donation to Italy’s Civil Protection (Protezione Civile), which is aimed at helping doctors, nurses, researchers and volunteers on the front-line. 

The news came after The Zegna Group pledged to reshape part of its production facilities in Italy and Switzerland into manufacturing labs for masks. The group is set to make a direct donation to several hospitals, in order to purchase ventilators and masks. 

“At Zegna, we believe our actions today will shape our tomorrow,” remarks Gildo Zegna, CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna, in a statement. “The pandemic we are all facing is a call for people around the world to take action. Each of us must do our part, in every way possible, to stop this global emergency.”

Further luxury brands converting production facilities to supply medical equipment and gear comprise Gucci, Chanel, Prada, Ferragamo – among others. 

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Prada Has Extended Its Intensive Care Units To Italian Hospitals

Prada has donated new intensive care and revitalization units to three main hospitals in Milan, as reported by Corriere.

In a brief statement, Prada announced that it donated “two full units to intensive care and resuscitation to each of the following hospitals in Milan, Italy: Vittore Buzzi, Sacco, and San Raffaele.” The donation was made by head Designer Miuccia Prada, CEO Patrzio Bertelli and Chairman of Prada SpA, Carlo Mazzi. 

Prada’s philanthropic gesture comes as a consequence of a series of donations ushered by Italian labels. Armani has donated millions of euros to four Italian hospitals: Luigi Sacco, San Raffaele, and Istituto dei Tumori (in Milan), counting the likes of Rome’s institute Lazzaro Spallanzani. On the other hand, Milan’s San Raffaele Hospital also received a six-sum intake of $220,000 in donation from icon Donatella Versace. 

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French Conglomerate LVMH Drops In Revenue As Affected By Coronavirus Calamity

Luxury conglomerate LVMH reported a recent downfall in revenue (of 10%) to (20%) in comparison to the same period of last year, allegedly revealed due to the office closures and shoppers desisting from purchasing during Covid-19 pandemic. The company is slated to disclose first-quarter results on April 16. 

LVMH’s reduced revenue earning is a tail now shared with the rest of the luxury world. Kering SA, company which owns the likes of Gucci, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent, on Friday March 27 revealed its sales and revenue fell of nearly 15%, with Burberry Group Plc. Noting on March 19 that its retail sales dropped between 40% and 50%, in comparison to the previous six weeks.

 “In a particularly uncertain environment, the Group will maintain a strategy focused on the preservation of the value of its brands, supported by the exceptional quality of its products and reactivity of its teams,” LVMH shared in a statement. The “[outbreak’s] impact cannot be accurately calculated at this time without knowing the timing of a return to normal in these countries.”

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Chanel Pledges To Produce Face Masks For Lack of Prevention

Chanel is the latest luxury household to pivot to face mask and protective gear manufacturing in light of the Coronavirus pandemic. 

In a recently released statement, Chanel observed: “[T]oday we are mobilizing our workforce and our partners […] to produce protective masks and blouses.” The storied fashion maison is currently developing prototypes, which will be sent out to relevant health organizations once approved by French authorities.

The brand also remarked that it would not be laying off any of its 4,500 employees as a result of the pandemic. 

Chanel is an anomaly among fashion labels for not being held by luxury conglomerate such as LVMH or Kering S.A. However, Chanel steps along rivals Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, and Prada to ensure there are enough medical supplies to prevent lack cross-globally.  

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Vogue Italia Lands A Blank Canvas For Its April Issue

Vogue Italia’s April issue was recently released, landing a blank canvas as a response to the development of Covid-19 crisis. Emanuele Farneti, Vogue Italia’s Editor-in-Chief, confirmed on Instagram that though the April issue was already in the works, it was shelved quickly to make a more appropriate response to present circumstances.

Farneti also remarked: “to speak of anything else – while people are dying, doctors and nurses are risking their lives and the world is changing forever – is not the DNA of Vogue Italia.” Farneti says the white colour epitomises respect, rebirth, the uniforms of health of medical workers on the front line and a blank canvas for new beginnings. 

As Vogue makes it clear, fashion upholds major risks and crisis with this pandemic, with independent households forced to pivot in production and protective gear, to step towards a final downfall of the virus. 

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Giorgio Armani’s open letter to fashion

Published this week on WWD an open letter by the pen of Maestro Giorgio Armani to the world of fashion. After being one of the very first one leaders to recognize the danger of the pandemic, showing his new collection behind closed doors during Milan Fashion Week, donating 2 ml euros to the local hospitals for research and cure, Armani also converted his manufacturing facilities in Italy to produce single use-disposable gowns, leading by example in this global fight against COVID- 19.

Giorgio Armani Julian Broad

The reflection explores, in Giorgio’s words this “absurd” current state of affairs exposing a world where fashion industry has fallen in “a criminal nonalignment between the weather and the commercial season” in a frenetic pursue of fast fashion.

The decline began when we pursued fast fashion

He continues on stating that the slow down forced by the pandemic is bringing to light a necessary redemption of value to the work and world of designers, which would ultimately bring the customers to the understanding of the value of fashion and its collections.

“The decline of the fashion system as we know it began when the luxury segment adopted the operating methods of fast fashion, mimicking the latter’s endless delivery cycle in the hope of selling more, yet forgetting that luxury takes time, to be achieved and to be appreciated. Luxury cannot and must not be fast. It makes no sense for one of my jackets or suits to live in the shop for three weeks before becoming obsolete, replaced by new goods that are not too different.”

Luxury takes time

Giorgio Armani’s creations as we know them are the indisputable symbol of timeless elegance. This pause is giving the world a chance to renew the pace of proposing ideas to the world especially giving the chance to refocus on production cycles and seasons, allowing to a more livable and therefore quality-driven fashion. 

It is a moment of reflection that calls for a more ethical approach to fashion.

Timeless Elegance

“I don’t work like that, and I find it immoral to do so. I have always believed in an idea of ​​timeless elegance, which is not only a precise aesthetic code, but also an approach to the design and making of garments that suggests a way of buying them: to make them last. For the same reason, I find it absurd that, in the middle of winter, one can only find linen dresses in the shops and alpaca coats in the summer, for the simple reason that the desire to purchase must be satisfied immediately.”

Who buys an item to put it in the closet waiting for the right season? None or just a few, I believe. But this, driven by department stores, has become the dominant mind-set, which I think is wrong and needs to change.

This crisis is an opportunity to slow down and realign everything; to define a more meaningful landscape. I have been working with my teams for three weeks so that, after the lockdown, the summer collections will remain in the boutiques at least until the beginning of September, as it is natural. And so we will do from now on.”

Slow down and realign

“Special events should happen for special occasions, not as a routine.” The expense of a grandiose show far surpasses and is no longer justifiable especially when, according to Armani, it carries just a mediocre message. The letter denounces a scenario where too much is spent on “vulgar” displays of “mild ideas”; the designer reinforces his invitation to focus on slow-paced high-quality measured communication adding on to the message of focusing on authenticity to “regain human dimension”

“It is nice to see that in this sense we are all united. For retail, this will be an important stress test. I want to send my heartfelt encouragement to the American fashion operators for the difficult weeks they will face ahead. United, we will make it. But we have to be united and operate in unison: This is perhaps the most important lesson we can learn from this crisis.

United we will make it

Giorgio Armani

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Drake, The Weekend & J.Cole Video-Chatted an 11-Year-Old Fan Prior To His Death

Last week, The Weekend, Drake and J,Cole teamed up in video-chatting an 11-year-old fan, Elijah Patrick Williams, prior to his death caused by cancer, as reported by Billboard. The young boy’s cousin, Michael Watson II, confirmed the news via an Instagram post on Sunday March 29. 

Williams can be seen taking calls from J.Cole and The Weekend in the first video below and scroll through the gallery in the second post to see a snap of him talking to Drake.

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Martin Margiela Drops An “Intimate” Documentary In A Few Days

Titled Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, the world awaits for the designer’s big-hit across the global screens this Friday.

Filmed 10 years after Margiela’s departure from his own label, the documentary gives an intimate glimpse into fashion’s most acclaimed and most puzzling figures.

The trailer looks at some of the momentous times of the designer’s career, comprising the introduction of the veiled model, using ice to alter the garment colour, the Tabi shoe, as well as delving into the accomplishments of his identity and career.

The film was directed by Reiner Holzemer and encompasses the likes of Carine Roitfeld, Jean Paul Gaultier among many more successful creative entrepreneurs. 

Take a peek below…

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Ralph Lauren Provides $10 Million In Donations To Combat Covid-19 Crisis

Ralph Lauren donates $10 Million to help in combating coronavirus crisis. The sum, extended via the Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation, will go towards the company’s employees in need, as well as global communities impacted by the pandemic. 

The recently-turned knight, together with the Foundation’s president Patrice Louvet, declared the pledge to WWD. “We believe that no matter who you are or where you are from, we are all connected. That is why we are taking significant action to help our teams and communities through this crisis,” Lauren remarked.

“We recognize that this is an unprecedented multifaceted crisis that demands different responses for different needs in different places,” Louvet continued. “That is why we are funding multiple activities to support our teams, our partners and our communities around the world.”

$10 million has reportedly been planned to go towards various programs, from financial grants for Ralph Lauren employees to the World Health Organization’s Covid-19 Fund. In addition, Lauren has committed in supplying medical equipment such as 25,000 isolation gowns and 250,000 masks. 

Elsewhere, the company pledged that it will be closing stores and hospitality locations in selected countries until further notice. The wellbeing of our teams, friends, and family around the world is what matters most right now.” The announcement has been shared via a few Instagram posts, featured below. 

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Brooks Brothers Responds To National Call For Supplies To Aid Medical Workers (And Wider Demographics) In Need

Brook Brothers (also known as the “Company”), America’s oldest retailer, announced its response to the urgent call from the White House and other state leaders for medical supplies.

The Company is in the process of converting its New York, North Carolina and Massachusetts factories from manufacturing ties, shirts and suits to now making masks and safety gowns. Brooks Brothers plans to utilise these facilities to produce up to 150,000 masks per day, on a continuous basis to help increase protective gear for medical workers and wider demographic battling the spread of Covid-19, both at the nation’s hospitals and other facilities. The company pledged to be soon producing gowns. 

Over the past two weeks, the Company has been in direct contact with Federal and State officials, task forces, several hospital systems and other municipalities and organisations.

As part of this effort, Brook Brothers has built an extensive liaison with Stop the Spread, a coalition of volunteer CEOs working in Washing D.C. and around the U.S., to legitimise and support government actions in relation to Covid-19. 

The company has also teamed with leading universities recognised as centres for excellence for both textiles and technology in order to develop prototypes. Brooks Brothers has been working hand-in-hand with the U.S. Food and Drug Administration service to expedite the approval process. 

For over 200 years, Brooks Brothers has been at the forefront of tackling some of the nation’s most critical issues – from its support o he Red Cross society in 1898 – to crafting U.S. military uniforms from the Civil War through today. The Company currently supports numerous national and local charities with a focus on health and welfare. 

“We consider this a duty, and part of our DNA at Brooks Brothers, remarked Claudio Del Vecchio, Chief Executive Officer. “These are challenging times that are impacting us all. We are deeply grateful to the medical personnel at the frontlines who are fighting the pandemic, and we are honoured to do our part and join our peers in retail to provide protective masks that our health care system critically needs.

I also want to thank our dedicated manufacturing employees who are returning to work as we reopen our factories to make this possible.”

Adding up to the 150,000 masks crafted per day, Brooks Brothers expects to begin producing protective gowns. And for marking the product start, Brooks Brother’s factory personnel are set to return to their job this week following a two-week precautionary self-quarantine.

The company is closely following public health guidance and will enforce federal guidelines for sanitation and social distancing across all facilities to protect the welfare of its staff members. 

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Goodbye Sergio Rossi

Sergio Rossi, the founding entrepreneur of the eponymous brand, died at the age of 84 and had contracted the coronavirus. A great entrepreneur and shoe maker from the Romagna district who gave his name to one of the best known brands of made in Italy.

Its history cannot be separated from that of San Mauro Pascoli, a small town in Emilia Romagna known for the birth of Giovanni Pascoli, poet and singer of nature and everyday life. The post-war years saw the transformation of the area with its footwear vocation.

The success of the cobblers, who roamed the villages and farms, led to the change and progressive abandonment of the more traditional agriculture and livestock activities. Thanks to him, the village was transformed into a large artisan shop specializing in the production of sandals, which were then sold in small shops on the Riviera.

From this first artisan activity a flourishing industry was born and developed, which specializes in women’s high fashion footwear. Together with the shoe factories, small companies specializing in the manufacture of semi-finished products – soles, heels and bottoms – and workshops for cutting uppers by hand and machine are born and thrive in the same district of San Mauro Pascoli.

A true industrial craftsmanship that has been able to establish itself on the global market, focusing on the quality of materials and manufacturing as well as on the originality of the design. So in 1958 in San Mauro Pascoli the Mir Mar was built, the first industrial-sized shoe factory, while the nearby seaside towns such as Rimini are in full swing, then celebrated by Federico Fellini in his Amarcord.

From this cultural closeness with the great director a curious legend was born: in the masterpiece “La Dolce Vita” (1960) the décolleté worn by Anita Ekberg seem to be those of Sergio Rossi, who in those years built his fortune by focusing on footwear female.

This is the context from which the adventure of Sergio Rossi begins, who follows in the footsteps of his father, a skilled shoemaker, from whom he resumed his activity in 1956, creating the first handmade sandals.

Riccardo Sciutto, CEO of the Sergio Rossi Group, was inspired by this story of authenticity, named by Andrea Bonomi, founder and president of Investindustrial, an independent financial group that acquires 100% of the company from the Kering Group.

Sergio Rossi is back in Italian hands and thanks to Sciutto’s vision, the path to relaunching the brand begins. 2016 with the sr1 collection, inspired by the square-tipped model of the early nineties represents the new beginning, in the sign of the brand’s most genuine aesthetics. A path in which the contemporary reinterpretation of one’s legacy is central.

Sergio Rossi had declared in 1988: Since the beginning of our industrial activity we have concentrated all efforts in the search for form, an element that is of primary importance in the shoe … After the shape, the focus is on the other two elements that complete the structure of a successful shoe: style and quality.

Once the three ingredients are perfectly calibrated, success simply becomes a logical consequence ”. Today, thanks to the “Living Heritage” company museum, it is possible to relive all the salient milestones of Sergio Rossi through a selection of over 300 of the most representative and innovative wooden shapes of the brand.

From the shape of the very first “Opanca” sandal from 1966 to the large plant and low heel shapes of the seventies, to the tapered shapes of the décolleté, to the timeless pump “Godiva”: a significant representation of the history of this extraordinary artist-craftsman of form.

Even before the important photographic campaigns, Sergio Rossi entrusts his image to artists and illustrators who have created recognizable and ironic illustrations and drawings for him. Among the first could not miss the eclectic illustrator and stylist Alberto Lattuada, who with his creations and jokes has animated the world of Italian fashion for over fifty years.

Then it was the turn of Miguel Cruz, who in addition to creating some illustrations to advertise Sergio Rossi in the early 70s, is also a stylist who makes use of Sergio Rossi’s collaboration for the creation of footwear to match the looks and clothes of his collections.

Always designs of great strength and incisiveness are those made by the Swedish Mats Gustafson, a name that has become famous for his important collaborations with Hermès, Dior and Yohji Yamamoto, as well as with magazines of the caliber of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. When the brand reaches success, the moment has come to create real advertising campaigns that define the imagination and the Sergio Rossi woman.

To immortalize his shoes to make them style icons are called Italian and international photographers who made the history of photography. We pass from still life images where the product is the protagonist, to those set and more seductive thanks also to the presence of the top model.

From the great Italian masters such as, to name just a few, Piero Gemelli, Oliviero Toscani, Fabrizio Ferri, Giampaolo Barbieri, Marco Glaviano, to the most celebrated foreign talents, such as Albert Watson, Miles Aldridge, Patrick Demarchelier, Steven Meisel, Michel Comte and Peter Lindbergh.

The gotha ​​of photography with Helmut Newton in the front row makes Sergio Rossi’s modernist style immortal. With him disappears a piece of history of Made in Italy and a charismatic figure of Italian footwear.

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The best apps for mindfulness and meditation

So, do you still think that individualism, an ancient dogma that the 80s with paleoconservatism have perpetrated in the minds, is still the only way possible? It seems now, more than ever, with this pandemic situation that is making us think about the way we treat our environment, but also how the economic system is collapsing, and, last but not least, how we treat and heal our body, that we actually need a refresh to follow new paths. And mostly, to have new mindset. This is a way of conceiving life typical of the East.

These people (differently from the West which has always focused on the machines’ development) has a centuries’ tradition of in-depth knowledge of body’s study. Prepare to listen to your body and other’s is a revolutionary practice. Probably the most effective in times of crisis like this. 

Technology helps us as always! There are several apps and websites on meditation and mindfulness available for download on your tablets and mobile phones. What are you waiting for? Your spiritual revolution starts now! Myfitnesspal, for example, offers tips to stay healthy and active. The site imediatly specifies that meditation not only helps concentration, but also athletic performance. initially proposes three techniques to have more meditation in our lives, and then goes deeper. Then Serenity app is focused on daily meditation.

The proposal starts with level 1 (basic), to move on to expansion (level 2) up to continuous meditation (level 6). But this is only the beginning: then there is the advanced meditation course which includes 24 steps. The app has intuitive graphics. Finally we point out Simple Habit: meditation App. It is a daily meditation app for busy people. The strong point is the initial screen that offers various aids to the user: from getting better sleep to reducing anxiety. Then, after selecting your goal, you set the time and access the course with a small fee.

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Italian Luxury Label Gucci Donates €2 Million To Facilitate Support For Coronavirus Pandemic

After the entire fashion world has placed major shifts towards supporting and backing Covid-19 turmoil, Gucci is the latest fashion house to pledge a lump-sum donation to battle against spreading coronavirus.

Based in Italy, where the epidemic has implemented huge havoc, the luxury label announced a 1 Million euros donation to the Italian Civil Protection Department (Protezione Civile) in partnership wit Intesa Sanpaolo and an additional million-euro sum to the United Nations Foundations Covid-19 Solidarity Response Fund in support of the World Health Organization (WHO).

Gucci solicits its consumers and followers to join to help in raising financial backing to combat the pandemic. Those interested can help donating to the Solidarity Response Fund for WHO through the “donate” feature on Gucci’s website.

Moreover, Gucci is offering its social media accounts, owning over 70 million followers, to the World Health Organization to tackle public health information that could protect the health of the community. 

Gucci’s President and CEO Marco Bizzarri and Creative Director Alessandro Michele remarked: ““This pandemic calls us to an unexpected task, but it is a call to which we respond decisively, advocating the selfless work carried out by health workers, doctors and nurses on the front lines every day in the fight against the COVID-19 pandemic, in Italy and in the rest of the world.

Their generosity and courage light our way forward in these difficult days. By supporting each other and helping those who are most vulnerable among us, we will be able to overcome this crisis: united, even more than before.”

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Philanthropic Fashion: Designers Support Scholars (And Beyond) Through Free-Of-Charge Lectures

As times of upheaval couldn’t get worse and all hopes seem to dim, the fashion industry knows how to get hold of the quickest solutions. On this occasion, the Alexander McQueen’s Sarabande foundation has consolidated in the making of free lectures on the subjects of art and fashion, as the world rolls in self-isolation. 

Titled The Sarabande Sessions, the free-of-charge classes are set to broadcast talks from household such as Thom Browne, Tim Walker, Molly Goddard, and A-COLD-WALL*’s Samuel Ross – and that’s just to name a few.

The first session, on March 27, featured a dialogue between Oscar-winning designer Colleen Atwood and acting mogul Eddie Redmayne. Classes start everyday at 5 pm DMT and run until April 9. 

The schedule is as follows:

Tuesday 31 March
Camp: Notes on Fashion. Andrew Bolton in conversation with Liam Freeman.

Wednesday 1 April
A-COLD-WALL*’s Samuel Ross in conversation with Bunny Kinney

Thursday 2 April
Grayson Perry

Friday 3 April
Script to screen: How to get your films made with Olivier Kaempfer, Amy Jackson and Fiona Lamptey.

Saturday 4 April
Get your film seen: How to market your film with Bunny Kinney, Saam Farahmand and Dr. Rebekah Louisa Smith

Sunday 5 April
Jake Chapman in conversation with Mark Sanders

Monday 6 April
Juno Calypso

Tuesday 7 April
Maggi Hambling OBE in conversation with James Cahill

Wednesday 8 April
Thom Browne in conversation with Tim Blanks

Thursday 9 April
Tim Walker in conversation with Molly Goddard

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#Istayhome

In this moment in which we are far from anyone, our habits and our routines are very different.

From smart working to the various solutions to meet every need, including those to keep fit and blow off steam. Also, the choice of our outfit is in this direction: comfort is the master, with a charge of energy thanks to the bold colours of sweaters and t-shirt, alternating with more traditional collections for the most classic people, concluding with the silk, cotton and cashmere. 

Arming themselves with positivity and setting new targets is the best strategy. For this reason, in this period, there are many tutorials online or lives on Instagram and Facebook based on sharing. 

An example is @italia_smart which in its page offers its followers more than one solution to deepen their knowledge, test their creativity and doing homemade workouts. 

Also the Yoga lessons of Denise dalla Giacoma are becoming popular  https://denisedellagiacoma.com/ and the free sessions of bio-energetic practice through the YouTube channel of Daniele Mauro Guainazz ; praticabioenergetica.it

Moreover, Tonic Gym in Milan has activated a sporty programming live on Facebook visible at the link  https://www.facebook.com/tonicfitness/ with 12 lessons per day from Monday to Friday. 

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Apple Tackles Covid-19 Safety Through A New App Launch: Here’s Everything You Need To Know

Apple has launched a new app and website for users in the United States, in order to deliver accurate and reliable information regarding the Covid-19 condition.

The digital portal allows users to answer a series of questions around risk factors, recent exposures and symptoms for both themselves and their beloved ones. In turn, they will garner recommendations on steps that follow, together with guidance on social distancing and self-isolating measures, how symptoms should be monitored, whether or not a test is suggested, and when to contact medical wellbeing.  

It should be feasible that Apple remarks that the program is designed to be a source for individuals and does not replace instructions from medical providers or guidance from public health authorities.The Apple Covid-19 website and app were created in partnership with the CDC, 1 the White House Coronavirus Task Force and FEMA. Click here for more.

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“Beat the virus with creativity” 8 Questions to Mauro Porcini

Mauro Porcini joined Pepsi in 2012 as its first ever Chief Design Officer. Living in NYC and Italian native, he shares with us his experience during the Covid-19 epidemic. Mauro is an expert in design as well as global branding, a supporter of the Made in Italy and Italian style.  We have asked his view, experience and a message for businesses and individuals during this global pandemic.

  1. Who has been or is inspiration and reference for you? 

First of all my parents, though I may sound pretty obvious, probably for many. I took for granted for a long time. They taught me the importance of culture, of knowledge and of learning with curiosity. Culture was the most important thing in my family, and they passed on the love for it, leading by example. They studied, they read and they were interested in anything that was relevant. They were in owe of and loved people with culture: University teachers and people in television that somehow were showcasing that level of culture. 

One very important value they taught was the need of being a good person. They are devoted Catholic, very Christian, very religious. My father is an architect and a painter, so I was surrounded by paintings in my house. So that was a great inspiration for me on the art side, and as a kid, I could draw very well. So it was really fun for me to draw with him and learn all kinds of techniques. 

My mother instead was in love with literature, writing and reading and she loves writing poems with religious backgrounds and content. 
Still today they work together to publish daily paintings and thoughts online. You know, my parents are totally non technological but they figured out how to create a blog. They self-published different books, paintings, sketches with poems. They have been such an inspiration all my life.

2. Your personal definition of design and how did you apply it in your professional experiences?

Design is all about people. It’s all about understanding the needs and wants of people. Therefore, understanding what is important, what is relevant, what is meaningful to people, and then creating solutions. It could be a product, a service, a brand, an experience: all solutions that solve those needs and those wants, those desires and dreams. This is what designers do.

To do that, we need to understand three dimensions. One is the world of the human beings, psychology and anthropology. Semiotic and semantic, hence understanding people. Second dimension is business: how to do branding, distribution, how to work with your customers: it is important because once you understand those needs, you also need to find a way to create solutions that can be sold. Third dimension is technology: the one of the product, to manufacture the product. 

The product needs to be feasible, sellable and you need to have the right technologies to do all of that. The connection between people, strategies slash business and technology is the key to create solutions that are meaningful to people to their needs and wants. Design is all about people and is all about fulfilling those needs, and those ones in a meaningful way. 

3. How do you live in New York and how does it influence your work? What are the other places that inspire or relax you?

I deeply Love NY, I define it as the capital of capitals. People all around the world come to NY to do business, to create and inspire. There is a density of unbelievable people with great ideas and unbelievable drive to change the world that you cannot find in any other city in the world. This makes NY an amazing “piazza” where people with ideas meet people with resources to make things possible.

Having this density of people with amazing ideas, drive and energy to make things happen is very inspiring, but at the same time could be draining. You always have the desire to be out and join and meet these people that can inspire you. 

To balance this out I have a house where I can escape in nature 2 hours away from the city, in the Hamptons. I love waking up and seeing deers in the garden and the sound of the fireplace crackling. In my life I have always been in a sort of suspension between two worlds: on one side a full energy of the city and on the other the full energy of nature, I love them both and a balance of two is what I feel comfortable with.

4.  How are you facing the coronavirus situation and which stereotypes or preconceptions would you like to fight?

Mauro takes a deep breath and sighs, and I know he is gearing up to deliver his honest opinion with most empathy. If you follow Mauro on his IG account you already know his posts are often filled with social involvement messages and human sensitivity. The impact of coronavirus issue, the healthcare shortage of staff and gear, the impact that this pandemic has on our country and the others, is one that he has deeply at heart.

The Corona virus situation is absolutely mind blowing in so many different ways. Nobody expected it. Nobody understands how to face it: it’s scary and difficult to understand. The problem is that many people are underestimating the magnitude of this crisis.

As an Italian living in New York my message is “Wake up! This is not just something happening in Italy”. 

Italy has the second-best performing healthcare system in the planet according to the World Health Organization. The US is far behind: there are by far less hospital beds per person than Italy.  

My thoughts and my prayer go to all the families and all the individuals that have been and will be impacted by this. We need to make sure we are safe as individuals, families and if we have teams and companies is necessary to prioritize the safety of our people. We also need to find ways to maintain the basic business needs, in specific industries in particular: healthcare system, food and beverage, production and delivery, the production of any safety equipment, as well as information and entertainment.

The solution is to stay home. Many of us will need to be in the front line fighting this virus. Some of us may be able to work remotely, while many other will not.

Try to better yourself, to do something to grow: You have an amazing opportunity to invest your time. “Beat this virus with creativity. 

In my case: I’m reading multiple books that I was planning to read and I never had time for, I started drawing again. I’m also writing my book. Actually, I’ve been writing this book for years. But now I am full on dedicated to it.

My goal is to grow and become better as a professional and also as a human being. So this is how I’m reacting to this virus and how I’m fighting it.

5. Your message of solidarity and energy to overcome this moment 

My message of solidarity is: Beat the virus with Creativity. 

As I mentioned already, we are living a tragedy with a very heavy death toll, but we also have the unique opportunity of getting time back in our life to slow down, invest on yourself and grow as a human being by learning new things. Read as much as you can. In brief do something that you always wanted to do, but you never had the time to.

This is how we’re going beat this virus from an emotional level. Obviously, you know, we still need to fight obviously this virus in a more practical way and contain it.

Let us use creativity to better ourselves, to grow and eventually share it also with others in order to inspire as many people as possible in this moment of difficulty.

6. Let’s talk about Made in Italy, of which you are a big supporter, and specifically how the role of the designer in future business in a world where the impact and physical interaction seems to be less and less prevalent?

A designer is a creator of meaning. A designer is somebody that understand the needs and wants of people and creates solutions. In the past those solutions were often material, and the material we were working with was wood, metal, or leather. These materials will stay in the future as well, obviously, you know, as there will always be a place for physical things. 

Today, there is a new material that designers can play with and need to play with and it is bytes and gigabytes of information that you can translate in so many different ways: videos, digital content, all those megabytes of information the fly in the air.

As yourself: how does communication among devices work? what is the user interface and how do products connect with each other creating dialogue with each other? how do human beings connect with those products from their smart thermostats to wearable technology to their smart phone or device of the future that will interact with their home and their clothing and car. We design the connection of all these devices. Even when is intangible we design the way you interact with them and how user friendly, intuitive, simple to use it is. We design something that at the end of the day can be synthetized and defined as an experience and therefore there is a physical component of it and there is also an intangible component of it

At the end of the day, however, we do exactly what the designers of the past were doing. We understand people, their needs, their wants, and we create solutions that are meaningful for them, where material is not just wood metal or plastic but also intangible as bytes and the intangible experience of people with these contents made of bytes and these physical products that some how carry, receive or send the contents away.

7. Have you traveled the world to educate brands and their professionals on best practices : an advice to brands in this moment of stalemate and crisis?

My recommendation to any brand around the world right now is to be sensitive and be part of the global conversation. Create a content that is authentic. It needs to be aligned to your brand promise, to what you stand for. It needs to be relevant to your target audience. Be part of the conversation, have a specific message that invokes energy and positivity or offer solutions that can be informative or entertaining. Offer value to your audience in a way that is informative, entertaining and authentic as possible, aligned to your promise, to your positioning and with the tonality that is typical of your brands.

8. Last but not least Mauro let’s talk about YOUR SHOES. you left NY temporarily to stay at home in the Hamptons, to stay at home, retreat and to contribute and rightly follow the guidelines dictated by the concept of “Social Distancing” as a weapon to combat the spread of this terrible virus. Are your beloved shoes (from you and us) now in quarantine?

My shoes, I miss my shoes in New York! I have my emergency collection you know, Here in America some people have collections of tomatoes and flowers and cookies and chips to use this in case of catastrophes, I have that and my shoes, about 50 pairs of them. It is you know My emergency collection!

 “In this way,you know, while the other pairs, stay in New York resting and being safe, I will just as safely, enjoy this smaller collection here. “ 

He jokes about it, but truly Mauro is a lover of shoes and he has a collection of approx. 350 shoes, 50 of which now in quarantine with him, the rest back in his apt in NYC.. 

We wish Mauro to be safely reunited with his beloved quarantined shoes soon, curious to see what he will design next, and we wish all of you to stay safe, stay in and work on a better future by utilizing Creativity to beat the virus! 

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#WHITEINSIEMESIAMOPIÙFORTI Focus on: MARCO MELIS EYEWEAR

Your name is synonym for eyewear made, built, designed and developed in Italy: the perfect combination of heritage and handicraft, with a future-forward vision.

“Making spectacles is like making a dress; this is what I want to offer to my client – so Marco Melis – every little detail can be analysed and selected to reflect the taste and needs of those who wear them.

The custom-made glasses can be tailored in terms of shape, but also on the inside the eyewear rod, where a signature or an inscription can be etched”.  

Melis has designed glasses since 1996, starting from the encounter with the craftsmanship masters to follow all the stages of eyewear design.

This passion led to the launch of MARCO MELIS EYEWEAR, brand that designs and produces limited-edition glasses and eyewear for special sectors, such as shipyards, automotive and motorcycle manufaturers. We sat down with Marco Melis and asked him about his path.

Which are the values and the philosophy of the brand?

At MARCOMELIS Eyewear we start from the design concept and to move on to development in our laboratories, in which we create the prototypes of models that are intended for other brands too. By making use of pantographs from the ‘60s and relying on the adroit hands of handicraft masters from Cadore, we create our collections, thus conveying our craftsmanship and Made in Italy flair.

What are the keywords to best define MARCOMELIS Eyewear?

For sure the sartorial cut, which caters to the needs of the clients or brands, consequently we are extremely versatile in the creation of our bespoke collections, hence the selection of the lenses, the plastic and the cut, which have to be in line with the eyewear.

The detail of the eyewear rod…

Inside the rods of my spectacles there is an inscription that represents the pride of my roots: “Made by an Italian“. We make everything in Italy, unlike other producers, which, although bearing the generic title “Made in Italy”, outsource to Countries that greatly differ from us in terms of culture, ethics and manufacturing background. Made by an Italian means responsibility, knowledge handed down over time, but also research and development.
Made by an Italian, first and foremost, is the work by a craftsperson who hand-makes an object that has been fully conceived, designed and made in Italy, as quality cannot depend on the title “Made in Italy”, but on the transfer onto the product of our handicraft values, as emanation of the history, creativity and resourcefulness of our land.

How was this photography project born? 

The photo shoot arose from the need to share our everyday reality with our clients even before they received our glasses. A photography project made by Carlo Mogiani and Matteo Curti.

How do you envision the sector will change after Coronavirus?

After Covid-19 there will be a huge demand for eyewear, as well as for many other products, due to the fact that many trade fairs have been cancelled. Hopefully, and we are rather optimistic to this regard, true Italian products will be much sought-after, in Italy and across the globe.

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The Breezier The Better: 14 Of The Best Shirts To Invest In Right Now, That Vow Timeless Refinement

These duty-heavy heroes have been (and should be) the abiding testament to formal dressing. 

Take a seat, broaden your alternatives and don’t feel sorry: your style currency update starts from now. It’s time to rethink formalwear, which has found itself boosting with great remark since the early classroom days.

The new grab-and-go shirt is gently shaped, free from hardware and in store just in time for spring. Now that the point of wearing the perfect wipe-clean coat (paired with the cosiest pick-me-up cardigan) has passed, the search for the pleasingly sized shirt number can’t be neglected.

Enter the shirt. Double the poise. Not only they vow timeless refinement, but they’re also an instant way to inject some luxe glamour into your wear-anywhere wardrobe.

The high street offers everyday options from Finisterre and Ben Sherman in go-with-everything neutral strokes. Or, if your penchant seeks for an upbeat in loosened tailoring (you’re welcome, Palmer Harding), there’s a style to suit all tastes: scrap the trivial influences and tackle a seasonless dialogue against your seasonal lust. 

From constant updates from Gucci and Neil Barrett to new designers-in-making signature staples, the beat rolls on. And believe it or not, so could your charm. Here’s Man In Town’s edit of the best shirts to buy now – spoiler: be ready to rewrite your own style policy in no time. 

MARNI

ABSTRACT-PRINT COTTON SHIRT, £340, AT MATCHESFASHION.COM

RAF SIMONS 

APPLIQUE-PATCH COTTON-POPLIN SHIRT, £505, AT MATCHESFASHION.COM

BARENA VENEZIA

CEDRONE COTTON-BLEND CANVAS OVERSHIRT, £345, AT MATCHESFASHION.COM

GUCCI

STRIPED GC-JACQUARD COTTON SHIRT, £390, AT MATCHESFASHION.COM

NEIL BARRETT 

STRIPED CUBAN-COLLAR POPLIN SHIRT, £385, AT MATCHESFASHION.COM

JIL SANDER

STRIPED COTTON-BLEND CANVAS SHIRT, £390, AT MATCHESFASHION.COM

DB BERDAN

TIE DYE SURFER SHIRT, £95, AT DBBERDAN.COM

DANIEL w. FLETCHER 

RUGBY SHIRT, £220, AT DANIELWFLETCHER.COM

OKUH 

TRIP SHIRT IN LONG SLEEVE, £30, AT OKUHSTUDIOS.COM

FINISTERRE

LEONARD SHIRT, £95, AT FINISTERRE.COM

BEN SHERMAN 

ARCHIVE MARTIN BLUE STRIPED LONG SLEEVE SHIRT, £80, AT BENSHERMAN.CO.UK

PALMER HARDING 

CARL STRIPED SATIN SHIRT, £295, AT MATCHESFASHION.COM

NICCE

CORE POLO SHIRT, £38, AT NICCECLOTHING.COM

TIMBERLAND

MILL RIVER SHIRT, £80, AT TIMBERLAND.CO.UK

Cover photo: Courtesy of Simone Lorusso

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The quarantine according to influencers

After the decree of the 8th of March issued by the Italian government, in Italy there is a limitation of movements. In fact, Italians have to stay home and go out only for close needs or emergencies. 

For this reason, a lot of Italian people in these days are spending their time cooking, doing workout and working from home. 

However, social networks and especially Instagram, are one of their favourite pastimes and Influencers are trying to entertain people as much as possible. 

Here a small list of Influencers to follow during the quarantine.

Paolo Stella (@paolostella

Influencer and writer, in these days he has decided to collect some proposals day-by-day on how to spend time during the quarantine and he uses the hashtag #Mysweetquarantine. His motto is: “We are in a new time, find a new way to spend it”. 

Giulia Valentina (@giuliavalentina)

In addition to taking part in the initiative of Paolo Stella #Mysweetquarantine, during these days she has interviewed Claudio Vicini, an Italian doctor, to ask him some recurring questions about Covid19 to give her Instagram followers some useful information. Moreover, in her Ig Stories she plays with her chihuahuas and teaches English to her followers. 

Luca Vezil (@lucavezil)

Fitness lover and boyfriend of Valentina Ferragni (@valentinaferragni), during these days he makes videos and Instagram lives to give his followers some tips about homemade workouts only using a mat, a gym elastic and a lot of willpower. In this way, he encourages his followers to look always fit. 

Paola Turani (@paolaturani)

Model and fashion influencer, during these days, in addition to showing her everyday life with her dogs and her husband Riccardo Serpellini (@rickyserpella), she shares nice Tik Tok to entertain her followers and give them some carefree moments. 

Marco Cartasegna (@marcocartasegna)

Influencer and Italian-Spanish model, on Instagram he talks about politics and in these days of quarantine he makes some IGTV videos expressing his point of view about the moves of the Italian government giving his followers some information. 

Veronica Ferraro (@veronicaferraro)

Fashion influencer, during these days she has taken part in the initiative of Paolo Stella #Mysweetquarantine and every morning at 10.00 am she shares an IGTV video of a homemade workout taking inspiration from his husband and personal trainer Giorgio Merlino (@giorgiomerlino). 

Leo Gassman (leogass.official)

Singer and winner of Sanremo young 2020, he invites his followers to stay home and he makes Instagram lives in which he sings and plays the guitar to keep company to his audience. 

Camilla Boniardi (@camihawke)

During these days, Camihawke shares on her Instagram profile some nice Tik Tok in which she gives her followers some advice on tv series to watch during the quarantine.  

Marco Fantini (marcofantini_mf

Influencer, model and boyfriend of Beatrice Valli (@beatricevalli), in addition to inviting his followers to stay home and to thanking the doctors who are dealing with this emergency, he shares Ig Stories about his everyday life and he also shows some cooking recipes. 

Frank Gallucci (@frankgallucci)

Frank daily updates his followers about the Covid19 situation in Italy and all around the world. Moreover, he tries to entertain them with tik tok and hilarious videos. 

Filippo Cirulli (@filippocirulli)

Trendsetter, art and antique lovers, during this quarantine, Filippo teaches us how to polish silver, how to clean glasses in an optimum way and how to create cocktails for aperitifs. 

Alessandro Magni (@ale_magni)

Alessandro is a globetrotter and so for him is difficult to stay home. Despite this, he always respects the rules and invites his followers to do the same. In this period of forced confinement, he tidies up his wardrobe and he shows us his amazing clothes. 

Elisa Taviti (@elisataviti)

Tuscan influencer, in these days, Elisa looks after the house and the kitchen and gives her followers some advice on how to prepare desserts and traditional dishes. She also gives them some beauty tips! 

Roberto Valbuzzi (@notordinarychef)

Roberto is a chef of the Italian Tv program “Cortesie per gli ospiti” (channel 31 Real Time). He cooks special dishes and recipes to make during this period. He also makes Instagram lives with friends and well-known people in the world of food. 

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15 Chuck-On Pairs Of Essentials That Exude An Uplifting Cosy Template

The current world situation made it clear: as self-isolation reached upon us, we’re propelled to invest in staples worth of cosy belonging.

Whether it’s a timeless classic from favourites Paul Smith or Burberry, or must-have hybrids that are pioneering and intriguingly tailored, from Chalayan to Ahluwalia, a first-rate staple is a lifetime essential.

And for the ultimate in luxury menswear? Look to Bottega Veneta for further evidence, whose honey-smooth pouches have grown into a dandy style hit, dive into Armor Lux to crack your comfy-(but)-lusty style conundrum and take prints to the extreme with a bracing Aries uniform.

And trust us, you’ll never get over this season’s look-at-me bold sizing. In fact, be prepared to ditch your weary bargains and embrace the wear-anywhere power of upsized practicality. 

As evenings get brighter and days go warmer, browse Man in Town’s edit of versatile options eager to make your off-duty template cosy, now and forever. You’re welcome. 

AHLUWALIA

MIXED PRINT LOGO VEST TOP, £275, AT BROWNSFASHION.COM

BEN SHERMAN

COLOUR BLOCKED LOGO SWEATSHIRT, £70, AT BENSHERMAN.CO.UK

UMBRO

CONCORD DRILL SWEAT IN BUNKER GREEN, £50, AT UMBRO.CO.UK

ARMOR LUX

STRIPED MOCK-NECK COTTON JERSEY SWEAT, £95, AT MRPORTER.COM

BOILER ROOM

RUNNERS HOODIE IN BLACK, £100, AT BOILERROOM.TV

ARIES

SKATE TEE, £70, AT ARIESARISE.COM

CHALAYAN

NEON GREEN STRIPED COTTON SHIRT, £310, AT CHALAYAN.COM

PERRY ELLIS AMERICA

QUARTER ZIP COLOURBLOCK FLEECE SWEAT, £115, AT PERRYELLIS.COM

BARACUTA

CREW NECK SMALL LOGO, £110, AT BARACUTA.COM

DANIEL w. FLETCHER 

VARSITY JUMPER, £350, AT DANIELWFLETCHER.COM

LACOSTE

COTTON AND SILK BLEND SWEATER, £160, AT LACOSTE.COM

WEEKDAY

ROMANO MICRO SWEATSHIRT, £40, AT WEEKDAY.COM

BOTTEGA VENETA 

PIPED SHOULDER JUMPER, £774, AT FARFETCH.COM

PAUL SMITH 

CREW NECK ABSTRACT KNITTED JUMPER, £295, AT FARFETCH.COM

BURBERRY

ICON STRIPE DETAIL JERSEY TRACKPANTS, £295, AT FARFETCH.COM

Cover photo: Photography by Chris Davies, styling by Jo Levi and grooming by Tina Elliott

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Celebrating the Anniversary of Portugal Fashion Week

The 46th edition of the Portugal Fashion Week held in the suggestive Alfândega do Porto Congress Center location has closed after the first day due to the risk of Covid-19. Despite this event this edition marked the 25 years of the event dedicated to Portuguese fashion set up in 1995 and the 10 years of the BLOOM, platform dedicated to upcoming fashion designers. 

Throughout these 25 years, Portugal Fashion has showcased, nationally and internationally, 1,986 collections by 171 designers (national and international, renowned and upcoming designers), and 143 brands (clothing, footwear, and jewellery). “During Portugal Fashion’s 25th anniversary celebrations, we will inevitably evoke the history of the event and its important contribution to the promotion, enhancement and international expansion of national fashion.

Susana Bettencourt
Susana Bettencourt
Susana Bettencourt
Alexandra Moura
Alexandra Moura
Alexandra Moura
Alexandra Moura
Alexandra Moura
Alexandra Moura
Alexandra Moura
Alexandra Moura
Alexandra Moura

But, above all, our purpose is to aim for the future, with a set of initiatives that highlight the potential of Portuguese fashion and show the strength of this sector as a catalyst for talent, creativity and innovation in different areas”, explained Portugal Fashion’s project director, Mónica Neto.

There are several examples of emerging designers who, after training in Bloom, have consolidated their careers and are now on the Portugal Fashion calendar, such as Estelita Mendonça, Hugo Costa, Inês Torcato, David Catalán or Susana Bettencourt. The first day of show was mostly dedicated to young BLOOM designers. On show the collection by Maria Meira, Unflower, Rita Sá, 09. 0.9 Virus, João Sousa, Carolina Sobral and ARIEIV, in addition to the 3 winners of the “Novos Criadores PFN” competition, Ana Campos, Diogo Van der Sandt and Maria Gaudêncio.

All these shows have been done with closed doors due to the threat of the spread of Covid-19. Among the designers showcasing at BLOOM, UNFLOWER showcased a collection inspired by the work of Lucian Freud who portrayed Celia Paul on canvas with great emotional power, insistently and cold-heartedly for her vulnerability.

09 Virus
09 Virus
09Virus
09 Virus
09 Virus
Arieiv
Arieiv
Carolina Sobral
Carolina Sobral
Carloina Sobral
Joao Sousa
Maria Meira
Maria Meira
Maria Meira
RitaSa
RitaSa
RitaSa
RitaSa
Unflower
Unflower
Unflower

The collection is inspire by these dynamics – strength and weakness -, alternating serge and leather parts overlaid on tight, structured knits, patched with overlapping stitching and seams, and satin showing frailty and the romantic involvement. Maria Meira collection explores the dualism of light/shadow and the creative process is revealed by the quest for possible shapes behind a projection; this generates an ambiguous vision of a universe where light and shadow become one and turn into a pictorial representation of themselves with a collection of casual dark items enlightened by touch of yellow.

Warm colors with intense shades of ocher and orange for the the men’s sports collection by Rita Rodrigues de Sá who plays with materials, colors and details, as well as in pieces divided between the right and the wrong side, which reflect a state of  a decontracted fashion easy to wear. 0.9 Virus looks at sustainability focusing on water, a finite resource – a terrible waste of the source of being – and the ability of molten magma to recover.

The collection is made of mainly organic and recyclable materials – terry cloth, serge and denim in black and shades of blue, alluding to the power and exuberance of the resources. Black prints that distinguish the oil ripples on the crystalline water.

The collection of João Sousa is a tribute to his grandmother Belmira, the name “Bellamira” analogy is Bella (recalling the fantasy and all of that imaginary things) and Mira (the nickname of the grandmother). It represents all the struggles in life of the lady from the breast cancer to the loss of both legs because of the diabetes.

David Catalan
David Catalan
David Catalan
David Catalan
David Catalan
David Catalan
David Catalan

The fabric manipulation and the asymmetries symbolize the obstacles that rise when no one is expecting. The result is a unique assemblage of items for men and women where sophiscated constuctions and references are interwoven.

Carolina Sobral conceives a “complete wardrobe” for the modern-day woman. It consists of classic, casual and versatile lines, using timeless colours such as beige, green and black predominate, with touches of blue and yellow standing out.

While keeping to the aesthetics of label, “SHIFT” intends to present a functional, practical collection for sophisticated, contemporary women. BLOOM closes with ARIEV which has developed a series of unique and irreverent garments playing with over volumes and a punk mood for the clothing brand Lo Siento.

Among the designers to watch on the mail Potugal Fashion Calendar is the menswear line by David Catalán who revisits the universe of football casuals. Developed upon the wardrobe of the football fans of English teams, Catalan develops silhouettes that reflect the identity of the style football casuals, but with a relaxed attitude and joyful colors.

In the same urban mood is Maria Gambina who reinforces the brand identity with  graphics and materials with innovative, sustainable and recycled finishes. Bomber jacket, Trucker, Duffle coat and Trench coat are reinterpreted and deconstructed details normally used in the interiors of the pieces are highlighted and played with false pieces in unforeseen layers.

Maria Gambina
Maria Gambina
Maria Gambina
Maria Gambina
Maria Gambina
Maria Gambina
Maria Gambina

Looking at more experimental fashion is “Overload”  Susana Bettencourt’s manifesto that hrough her own material universe – Knitwear – she shows us how all the parts come together and give rise to hard shapes, a heavy structure and completely opposing universes. The designer is focusing on sustainable production and the “Overload” presentation is a way of fighting the mass, toxic production of fast fashion.

Last but not least, a name who is now also known internationally, Alexandra Moura took inspiration from the social neighbourhoods of Lisbon city. These cultural mixtures are a result of their coming to Portugal from Africa in the 70s and their adjustment to a different culture never forgetting their roots.

The collection mixes opposites, from the ” underground” with ethnical features, to the Hip-Hop with African influences. The classic of an antique generation contrasts the new generation’s streetwear, the traditional costumes to street art, creating contemporary and “retro” silhouettes.

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Milan goes sustainable with WSM Fashionreboot

On occasion of the menswear fashion week, on 11th and 12th January 2020 at BASE Milano (partner of WSM Fashion Reboot), WHITE relies on sustainability with WSM Fashion Reboot, an event organized thanks to the support offered by MISE and ICE – Agenzia, the part- nership with Confartigianato Imprese, and the aegis of the Municipality of Milan.

The first event dedicated to sustainable innovation and fashion design, aiming to act as a bridge connecting the different forms and cultures of sustainability with the market as well as the endusers.

The project tackles the theme in a systemic, holistic and propositioning way, so as to give a voice to the several stakeholders that have long been working to transform the current environmental and social crisis into our best opportunity for progress.

Synergy and interaction are the keys to understanding WSM Fashion Reboot, a project including installations, displays, happenings and a rich calendar of activities and workshops to engage both the insiders and the citizenries of Milan.

The goal is to promote real change, thanks to a factual collaboration, resulting from a collective effort. The project stems from the synergy between Camera Nazionale della Moda, WHITE, CBI Camera Buyer Italia, which, with Confartigianato Imprese aim to launch a new fashion paradigm in Milan.

An important initiative spearheaded by WHITE to enhance the role of Milan on the worldwide scene through a clearcut goal: becoming the first and foremost unmissable appointment dedicated to circular and sustainable fashion.

Innovation and research, aiming to sustainable development in the fashion system, are the elements connecting a variety of projects. 

“The support to WSM Fashion Reboot – underlines ICE’s President, Carlo Ferro – is in keeping with Agenzia ICE’s consideration for small and medium-sized businesses, their ability for innovation, their workmanship and their commitment in terms of sustainability. On these topics, with WHITE, we have drawn up a specific plan consisting of transversal initia- tives to back growth and promote innovative start-ups interna- tionally. Thanks to a targeted scouting of brands and designers, whose main objective are circularity and sustainability, innova- tive collections dedicated to the new technologies in the textile industry and sustainable fashion will be premiered in Milan.”

This edition of WSM Fashion Reboot has involved some of the most authoritative names in terms of sustainability: the main partners are Fashion Revolution, Cittadellarte Fondation Pistoletto, Milan’s Polytechnic, the Municipality of Milan, which has always and actively supported WHITE’s projects.

WSM Fashion Reboot, in partnership with Cittadellarte Fondation Pistoletto, support the Sustainable Development Goals approved by the United Nations’ leaders in 2015.

Among the other institutions involved, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, which, for the project Make Fashion Circular, gathers the leaders of the whole sector to further circular economy in fashion. WSM Fashion Reboot is curated by Matteo Ward, co-founder of the brand Wråd and artistic director of GIVE A FOKus, WHITE’s sustainable hub that goes on to develop this asset also in the womenswear edition, from 20th to 23rd February 2020.

So Matteo Ward, creative director of the project: “This edition of WSM Fashion Reboot goes to show that we are ready for the activation of multi-stakeholder partnerships, which are necessary to trigger a real process of sustainable development and systemic revolution. An event illustrating how design can and must become a tool to meet society’s real needs”.

The format of the event is structured in such a way as to be inclusive and accessible, starting from a deep
dive into the culture of sustainability.

A pioneering example was Salvatore Ferragamo, who, when he had no access to new raw materials, came up with an innovative way to make use of the scraps from his territory (fishing nets or cork).

This should be the bedrock of circular economy. Today, also thanks to this example, we can look to 47 the future, moving ahead with innovative start-ups, brands or small or medium-sized businesses that are radically rethinking their business model and generating functional products, so that their output is in keeping with the needs of the planet.

Salvatore Ferragamo Museum and Fondazione Ferragamo are going to partake in WSM Fashion Reboot, for the first time in Milan, with a section of the show Sustainable Thinking currently staged in the museum Florence, with a display on the ground floor of BASE Milano (Ex Ansaldo) of a selection of exclusive models by Salvatore Ferragamo illustrating his innate passion for experimentation with the poorest materials, materials that had never been used before to make footwear: paper, the bark of the tree, raffia, fish skin, cellophane.

From the show curated by Fondazione Ferraga- mo on the ground floor, to the first floor of BASE Milano, where an eclectic scenario awaits the visitors: 48 textile businesses like Candiani Denim, Canepa, Albini Group, Orange Fiber, to mention just a few, fashion labels and leading-edge designers like Vivienne Westwood, Bethany Williams, Boyish Jeans, Gilberto Calzolari, Selfi, Aagè, brands like Paul&Shark, Neubau Eyewear, Regenesi (one of the first agencies to regenerate recycled materials to give them a second chance), down to a selection of innovative start-ups.

Vivienne Westwood, one of the last independent brands worldwide, will be present at WSM to promote their cultural message for the sake of ethical and sustainable fashion.

The active involvement of different individuals, all authoritative in terms of sustainability, has allowed to gather a unique selection of designers and consolidat- ed brands, ranging from apparel to accessories, down to beauty.

Cittadellarte Fondazione Pistoletto is furthering its collaboration with WHITE by bringing to WSM Fashion Reboot a remarkable selection of creatives: Tiziano Guardini, Flavia La Rocca, Bav Tailor, Silvia Giovanardi, Blue of a Kind, Yekaterina Yvankova, ACBC (innovative footwear), Officina 39, Juan Carlos Gordillo Arana and Laura Meijering.

Thanks to the presence of A New Awareness, non-profit collaboration project that involves universities, media, non-government organizations, industry and the civil society, three international talents, Helen Kirkum, Awareness Infinitum and Corrina Goutos, will partake too.

From Peru, for the first time in Italy, the two excellences AYNI and Sophia Lerner, while Fashion Revolution promotes the open studio workshop/ format with Abitario, Larissa Von Planta and Patrick McDowell, which are going to showcase a special embroidery technique on cloth.

Among the other workshops that deserve a mention, Corrina Goutos will show how she creates jewels and accessories from recycled headsets. 

The Royal Embassy of Denmark is glad to collaborate with WSM Fashion Reboot for the first event fully dedicated to sustainability at the next edition of Milan’s Fashion Week in January 2020, showcasing a selected collective of Danish designers, who have decided to harness their creativity to generate sustainable fashion, in line with the current priorities of the newly elected Danish Government.

WSM Fashion Reboot will also stage an important focus on innovative start-ups, ranging from fashion to services, like Lablaco, which promotes circu- lar fashion shopping, ArchiLab dedicated to beauty and 1TrueId app, which focuses on traceability.

On top of that, the space dedicated to WSM SMART Contest “Sustainable Manufacturing and Responsible Innovation Technologies”, an initiative organized by WHITE and coordinated by Francesca Romana Rinaldi to enhance the start-ups that offer sustainable products and services to revolutionize the fashion system by implementing responsible innovation.

WSM Fashion Reboot rather than a display of products, aims to be a manifesto to explore projects that will be enhanced through a bespoke setup – the white brick – a true blank page, the expression within a space of the ideas, values, creativity and goals 49 of all the partners of WSM Fashion Reboot, sharing a common goal: triggering positive change with a focus on transparency, innovation and social design.

A rich calendar of activities with talks and workshops held by key opinion leaders on the topic of global sustainability.

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Shopping tips made in Italy

In a time of difficulty and isolation, we choose to support Italian craftsmanship, which is now also available online. With just a click, high-quality products made by skilled craftsmen and small art ateliers can showcase their creations.

ARTEMEST

https://artemest.com

For all lovers of home decor and interior design, your online shop not to be missed is Artemest (the name indicates the fusion of arts and crafts) which presents an extraordinary selection of furniture, lights, design objects and original gift ideas rigorously Made in Italy. Founded by the jewelry designer Ippolita Rostagno and the entrepreneur Marco Credendino, the selection includes talents and artisan shops that work different materials, from wood, Murano glass, precious metals, to marble and ceramics. A true celebration of artistic craftsmanship also thanks to the magazine, which tells and enhances realities through videos, photo reports, and interviews. The store was among the first to focus on the world of craftsmen and heritage companies to make them known to an international audience. As Marco Credendino himself explains, Artmest focuses above all on “handmade furniture products, not tied to well-known big brands. It is a very fragmented market, less ahead of distribution than fashion, where it is possible to give us greater added value, also through customization services. Thus a craftsman from the Marche conty manages to reach large customers of world luxury, perhaps based in Miami or Los Angeles, which would otherwise be impossible, and which would condemn him to sell only on a local market or at most on the Italian one “

BARROCO ITALIA

https://barrocoitalia.com/

An e-commerce that helps Italian craftsmen towards the internationalization and digitalization process by allowing sales directly from the producer to the consumer. An innovative project – born from an idea by Andrea Panarese, who comes from a background in Economics and Commerce in Cattolica and several experiences as Business Developer; Andrea has understood the potential of Made in Italy craftsmanship that thanks to new digital media can be preserved and promoted all over the world. The name of this particular online shop comes from the concept of Baroque (the art which shapes the city of Lecce, the hometown of Panarese), which in Portuguese translates into Barroco, a pun of words and a timeless concept that is renewed in different forms over time. The selection of the e-commerce features clothing and accessories for men with a wide choice of shoes (from classic to sneakers), bags and accessories, tailored trousers (among the best sellers together with shirts) up to a wide choice of jackets. Barroco also recently offers a selection for women with bags, jewelry, and small accessories. Among the news is the magazine that tells the stories of excellence of these small Made in Italy jewels. A journey into crafts in which the best traditions meet the new frontiers of digital with a very attentive customer care service.

MIRTA

https://www.mirta.com/

Focus mainly on high-quality leather goods which can be also played with surprising design. All this on Mirta, an online store that selects various firms completely made in Italy. A project founded by Martina Capriotti and Ciro Di Lanno who want to give voice and space to the small Italian artisans of luxury, especially in the fashion sector. The name evokes the rich symbolism of the myrtle plant which as the founders recall: “Myrtle is the plant dedicated to beauty. Think of Botticelli’s Venus: as soon as it emerged from the shell, the goddess covered herself with the myrtle, which then became the plant of beauty. So we liked to have this name that recalls the beauty that for us is a bit the essence of Made in Italy. It is also a word that also calls for energy, so much so that the Romans adorned their heads with myrtle plants when they went to war and returned victoriously and it is also said that Rome was born where there was a myrtle plant. ” A really rich selection especially of bags for her and him, among travel & business. Exclusive products are matched with dedicated contents to each craftsman to understand the history and the extraordinary technique that hides behind each creation.

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Exhibitions currently or soon on air worldwide

Despite Covid-19 is nourishing worldwide terrible feelings about our future (actually it seems to live in an Orwell’s dystopic novel), yes, big surprise, the world itself it’s not stopping.

Many museums, for example, have organized online tours to visit them, or in some areas not that much affected by this terrible pandemic virus, it’s still possible to have a lovely visit to spend our beloved free time. From music through art and fashion and more, here is a list of the best exhibitions currently or soon visitable worldwide. 

Patrick Kelly: The Journey

Patrick Kelly, rebel fashion genius, who knew how to combine American folk and his African American descendants in his creations, is honored with an exhibition. Precisely at the Scad Fish in Savannah, in the States.

With its button-style revolution, funky quotes and pop virtuosity he enchanted the stars in the 1980s. And we’re talking about stars with a capital S: Paloma Picasso, Pat Cleveland, Madonna, and Goldie Hawn, to mention a few. The exhibition dedicated to the United States’ designer, entitled “Patrick Kelly: the Journey” is the result of the long research of the artist Derrick Adams in the archive of the designer who died in 1990.

Adams is a connoisseur of black culture, or rather a great part of his production both as an artist and as curator derives from his color identity. Especially it revolves around the models of Afro culture in America. So the link between these two figures represented the most natural choice for the curator of the museum hosting the exhibition, Alexandra Sachs.

The contemporary artist and curator Adams was thus able to make a full immersion among the memorabilia, sketches and many other objects that belonged to the designer and that are located at the Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture in New York. Among these rare memorabilia, there is also the proposal written on a sheet, a sort of dedication written by the poet Maya Angelou to write a book on the life of Patrick Kelly.

Adams commented on Kelly’s production stating that his production was heavily influenced by the social context of his time and an overwhelming sense of humor. The exhibition features abstract collages and Adams sculptures made with patterns, embroidery and other original materials from Patrick Kelly’s archives. This exhibition is currently present in the American museum until 19 July 2020.

The Clash: London Calling

An anthem for London and the entire world, this exhibition goes behind the scene of an epic album: ‘London Calling‘ by the Clash. the Museum of London showcases images, music, memories and personal objects, from the band’s history – some never seen before – in a free display.

London Calling, a milestone of contemporary music, was generally about London, with narratives featuring both fictional and life-based characters. Journalist Sal Ciolfi once stated that “the songs encompass an arrangement of urban narratives and characters, and touch on themes such as sex, depression and identity crisis”.

A melting pot of musical styles, driven by a passion for action and a fierce desire for social justice. this new exclusive display at the Museum of London examines how London itself influenced The Clash as they became the most popular British band of the 20th century.

Jeff Koons: Absolute Value

An exhibition featuring over three decades of works by renowned American artist now open at Tel Aviv Museum of Art. Curated by Donor Rabina. Absolute Value offers a full immersion into Koon’s several languages of expression and techniques from different periods of production. Koons’s first solo exhibition in Israel showcases twelve large-scale works from the last three decades: Balloon Dog (Orange) (1994-2000).

Mirror-polished stainless steel and finished with an orange transparent coating sculpture, Bear and Policeman (1988) from the Banality series; Dolphin Taz Trashcan (2007–11) from the Popeye series, and Hulk (Rock) (2004–13) from the Hulk Elvis series. 

Also showcased a sculpture’s balloon form of the prehistoric Venus figurines depicting a stylized figure of a female form: Balloon Venus Dolni Vestonice (Violet) (2013–17) from the Antiquity series. A quote from the artist itself well represents his production: “Art to me is a humanitarian act, and I believe that there is a responsibility that art should somehow be able to affect mankind, to make the world a better place (this is not a cliche!)”.

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10 Tips for a trendy weekend in Lisbon

A cosmopolitan and vibrant city, in the last years it was considered one of the coolest places in Europe. In fact, everyone wants to go to Lisbon. 

Not only azulejos with cobalt tones, melancholy of fado, breathtaking views and great food, but the capital of Portugal is a fascinating city where fashion, lifestyle and nightlife never cease to surprise us. 

Our weekend in Lisbon, in the raises and falls of Chiado, and Barrio Alto, among exclusive experiences, trendy places and addresses not to be missed. 

CONFEITARIA NACIONAL

Praça da Figueira, Praça Dom Pedro IV 18B, 1100-24

One of the places which makes it possible to travel back in time to 1829, date in which it was founded.
It’s one of the oldest bakeries in Europe and once it was the official supplier of the Portuguese Royal House. The Confeitaria Nacional has lovely interior in which it is impossible to resist its selection of pastries.

A VIDA PORTUGUESA

Rua Anchieta 11, 1200-023

A Vida Portuguesa was born from the idea of the journalist Catarina Portas of giving prestige to the old products made in Portugal. 
Here you can find: perfumes, soaps, teas, species, postcards and preserves, cult objects and typical products packaged with a retro taste, a nostalgic triumph with a Portuguese heart. 

LUVARIA ULISSES

R. do Carmo 87 A, 1200-093 

A few square meters of timeless charm and on sale, only gloves, available in many models, colours and materials.
The ritual of the “proof of fit”, with talcum powder and elbow support cushion will make you want to buy them all. 

EMBAIXADA

Praça do Príncipe Real 26, 1250-184

A beautiful old building of the 19th century, has kept intact the interior to host a dynamic and creative project. 
Restaurant, art gallery and small pop-up shops: here you’ll find design pieces projected by Portuguese emerging brands. 
The result is a meeting point of people and experiences, traditions and contemporaneity. 

JNcQUOI 

Av. da Liberdade 182 184, 1250-146

JNcQUOI is a luxury restaurant, a café, a gourmet gastronomy, a cellar, a menswear shop with a tailor-made service and a selection of the most prestigious names of fashion and accessories, but also a library and a bakery. 
Does it exist a better meeting place to go shopping without time limits?

CASA PAU-BRASIL

Rua da Escola Politécnica, 42-46

Pau-Brasil was a manifesto and a Brazilian modernist movement that, in the 20th century, invented a new style. 
This philosophy lives in the Pau-Brasil House, a concept store with a curatorship of products and brands which interpret the Brazil in an international key. 
From fashion cartoons to books, to contemporary galleries, here you’ll find the best of a Brazilian design. 

LX FACTORY

R. Rodrigues de Faria 103, 1300-501

For several years, new generations of artist and designer of Lisbon began to occupy the industrial zone of the city to convert it into a creative hub. 
A real village made of red bricks and containers covered by street art acts as a stage for fashion events, art, architecture and music. 

PARK

Calcada do Combro 58, 1200-115 Lisbon 

The Park is a panoramic fashion café with a urban style, located on the sixth floor of a decommissioned parking in the Barrio Alto in Lisbon. 
Here you can see a spectacular view of the city and of the Tagus River and enjoy a cocktail listening to good music from the afternoon until late at night. 

PALACIO CHIADO 

R. do Alecrim 70, 1200-018, Lisboa

Once upon a time there was an exquisite palace, built in 1781, where the aristocracy of Lisbon danced gathered in banquets and enjoying unprecedent works of art.
Now, after a careful restoration, you will be welcomed by a huge hanging lion which will guide you in the decorated and baroque rooms where you can dine choosing the best courses of the menu by the Chef Manuel Bòia. 

PENSÃO AMOR 

R. do Alecrim 19, 1200-292

It was born as a guesthouse with rooms rented by the hours to prostitutes and their clients to enjoy a short moment of love, Pensão Amor brings the atmosphere of an old brothel to the present.
No more sailors or prostitutes but people who wants to dance and have fun. 

Text by Maurizio Bruno

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This Buy-Now-Wear-Now Adidas Drop Has Just Landed, It’s Here To Stay, And We’re (So) Into It

Treat yourself

Albeit leisurewear is the new on-the-go trend, in daunting times when we’re advised to break from the weight of the coronavirus threat, loungewear options come to be highly covetable. 

The ultimate huge-everything style recipe has carved the global lanes of relaxed practicality – see the AW20 runway scenarios for further reference – but there’s more.

Iconic brand Adidas has just simmered a brand-new concoction of fuss-free apparel that makes a middle-aged man look as cool as ever. And the major hallmark of daddy’s style is the not-so-humble tracksuit pants.

Toss it up or down, whack it soft or bold, this staple is a statement piece that’s been and always be here to stay.

Adidas latest drop encompasses a plethora of season-defining and home-fitting staples varying from low-top sneakers to functional jackets – once teamed up, they represent the ultimate practical revival, proving a tracksuit isn’t just for the gym.  

Available in range of blues, blacks, neutrals and brights, Adidas loungewear iterations drips of a youthful vision together with a contemporary fit, emblazoned by a stretch for added comfort. There are two types of fabrication stretches, for those looking for a different kind of wearability.

On a chromatic note, colour-ranging bridges from khaki (ready steal your off-duty limelight) to a multiplicity of shades that allow the staples to look crispy in despite of the number of washings, making it the seamless must-have chino from the get-go. 

The meme? You’ll answer lounge-swagger before you know it. You’re welcome.  

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Passion for sneakers

Sneakers are, without any doubt, the most popular shoes of the last decades. They know no limits in terms of style or generation and thanks to their charm they can be worn also in formal looks, tuxedo included. 

The first ones date back to the end of 1800, they had a rubber sole and canvas upper for a purely sporting use and their nickname comes from the fact that they didn’t make any noise when walking and, in this way, everyone could sneak up on someone without being heard. 

It was the irresistible James Dean in “Rebel Without a Cause” who made this type of footwear a real cult to wear every day, from the ground to the asphalt, under the denim or a tailored suit. 

From the iconic model which was spread in sixties, faithfully replicated by boutiques and online shops, to the pieces made with precious materials and a balanced design in lines and colours, for those who think that a sneaker has nothing to envy to an elegant leather brogue. 

They are models with a contemporary design, characterized by a free reinterpretation of forms and above all by bold colours. Proposals full of strong personality, a hymn to the new season. With a sock-like upper and phyton print inserts, details and shades which make these sneakers collectibles. 

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Corona Virus, 10 museums from your sofa

If the culture is not a good for all, now, more than ever, countries come together to say that it is accessible to everyone. 

Because of the COVID-19 emergency, also museums and places of worship closed the doors, but luckily not the virtual access; the most beautiful thing is that you can comfortably lay on your couch and at the same time take an imaginary plane and fly up to New York or St. Petersburg to visit the MOMA or the Hermitage. No queues, no crowd in front of the pictures and no silly comments of people… you can enjoy them and study them forgetting about the time, focusing on the details as much as you like, exploring the works in HD and walking to the empty rooms. 

Here some of the national and international museums which offer an online service. 

  1. MUSEO DEL PRADO

One of the most significant works of European figurative art is “Saturno devorando a su hijo” by Francisco Goya (1821-23), kept at the Museo del Prado in Madrid
According to Greek mythology, Cronus, the youngest of the Titans, the main character of the picture, knew that he would be deprived of the power by one of his sons, so that, very angry, began to devour them all one-to-one. The enthusiasm, madness, cannibalism of Cronus is in sharp contrast to the weakness of the small, disfigured and bloody body. It is a crude work and the ferocity is read in the hard and nervous hands of Saturn. The scene could mean the conflict between old age and youth or the return of absolutism in Spain which restricted all forms of intellectual freedom. 

LINK

“Saturno devorando a su hijo”-Francisco Goya

2. PINACOTECA DI BRERA – MILAN

“Il Bacio” by Francesco Hayez is the picture that gave the Italians more hope. It’s an ode to joy, a symbol of hope and patriotism and an icon of Pinacoteca di Brera. It’s the most copied and reprinted masterpiece in history, it was created in 1859, time in which Italy was divided into small states under the dominion of Austrian Habsburg. A time in which Italians created groups and small secret societies in order to restore dignity to their country. I think there’s a strong similarity to the time we are living. A nation that sings the Italian anthem during these days of forcible confinement, a nation that hugs from afar and with songs and music gives hope, despite everything. 

LINK

Il Bacio” – Francesco Hayez

3. BRITISH MUSEUM – LONDON

LINK

4. ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM – ATHENS 

LINK

5. MUSÉE D’ORSAY – PARIS 

Le Bassin aux nymphéas, harmonie verte” by Claude Monet describes a series of bridges where the painter went to paint at different times of day. In fact, according to the painter, in order to identify the right light, it was necessary to study it night and day. The bridge he built in the garden of his house was in the midst of sky and water. Those water lilies with pastel tones recall the traditional Japanese gardens and their representations. They seem capable to give hope and joy. 

LINK

“Le Bassin aux nynphéas, harmonie verte” – Claude Monet

6. LOUVRE – PARIS 

LINK

7. LE GALLERIE DEGLI UFFIZI – GIARDINO DEI BOBOLI – FLORENCE 

Who was lucky enough to visit Giardino dei Boboli in Florence, knows that a virtual tour it’s not the same.
I visited it for the first time 12 years ago. In front of Palazzo Pitti there was an Internet Point, where I went to update my Facebook status and tell my solo-journey in Florence. One of the guys in the shop, gave me a precious piece of advice: to take the side streets of the garden and immerse myself totally in the green. I listened to him and if I could track him down, I’ll thank him because that stroll in the art gave me many emotions. 
“Il viale dei cipressi” is a thick tunnel of shrubs that starts from the ground and gathers above your head. While I was walking there, a black cat appeared behind me. He was staring at me motionless. When I started to walk again, he followed me and then stopped when I turned around. I don’t know what that strange presence meant but sometimes we don’t need questions and we don’t want answers, but there’s one thing I know: that experience gave birth to a series of solo-journeys of which I have a very beautiful diary and a photo of me in tears with that mysterious cat with yellow eyes and black hair. 

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Giardino dei Boboli” – Firenze

8. NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART – WASHINGTON

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9. NATIONAL GALLERY – LONDRA

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10. MUSÉES ROYAUX DES BEAUX-ARTS DE BELGIQUE

On Google Arts and Culture a strange video exists and it represent the picture “La Chute des anges rebelles” painted by Pieter Brueghel l’Ancien in 1562. It is an augmented reality that brings us face to face with the worst monsters of the history of painting. This picture tells a biblical episode, the falls of the angels who rebelled to God for their thirst of power. We can see the angels who play the triumph, blond as children, paradise birds, dressed putti without any vice. 
In the middle there is the Archangel Gabriel who fights the seven-headed dragon from the book of Revelation. On the bottom of the picture, instead, there are monsters: half fish and half poultry, they have their bellies torn showing rotten eggs; they’re gigantic and disproportionate. It’s a scary scene which represents on the one hand the faith and on the other hand the greed. 
The picture is kept at Musée Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique. 

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“La Chute des anges rebelles”-Pieter Bruegell il Vecchio

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From the winter tales of Navigli to the success with music: COMA_COSE

Different but inseparable, complementary to one another, there is no Coma without Cose nor Fausto without California. But who is this magic duo?

One half of the musical duo is Fausto Zanardelli, aka Fausto Lama (a name that came from a rhyme about the actor Lorenzo Lamas). Bearded with a sailor’s hat on his head, he appears composed (quite the opposite to when he is on stage), intellectual and at the same time acute and goliardic.

The other is Francesca Mesiano, aka California: shaved hair, tattoos, contagious laughter and a sense of freedom that radiates energy.

Against the background of a romantic Milan, the duo Coma_Cose tells stories of feelings and loneliness wrapped in the exis- tential cold of their adopted city.

Starting from the first EP “Inverno Ticinese/ Winter in Ticinese, on the Navigli” they often cite key places in Milan, such as rotisseries and nightlife spots, but also public transport such as the subway or the iconic trams.

Their music was born within the urban contexts of the city, from the secret courtyards to the noises of nights and to the tinted atmospheres à la Twin Peaks. Their adrenaline fuelled live sessions are a must-see around Italy, with a look that is gender fluid and an interesting motto such as ‘Milamo’.

We sat down with them to discover more about this one of a kind genre that embraces both trap and deep song writing.

How did the idea of the name come about and what does it mean?

Three years ago this project was born out of a respective “awakening” from a creative coma in which we ended up. We both felt the need for an outlet that ended up materializing into a music band. The name was born to exorcise that period and all the things (cose) that had to do with it.

If you hadn’t become a successful band what would you have done when you were grown up?

Fausto – I would have probably travelled more. I did many jobs including bricklaying, waiting and bartending, shop assisting … in short, any job that provided enough to allow me to travel as much as possible.
California – Probably something that has to do with communication and construction on an artisan level. From furniture to objects, to children’s toys. I like the idea of giving shape and colour to thoughts and desires, and being able to make them tangible. The idea that an object can make a child fantasize during his childhood has always fascinated me. I would have also liked to do sculpture, or painting. Who knows, maybe today or tomorrow I’ll start.

Can you tell us the most important goals of 2019?

It has been an incredible year; we released our first album “Hype Aura” which has had an excellent response and we have made many exceptional hosts including “Deejay Chiama Italia”, RTL and a special on Lucio Battisti for Rai Uno.
We were the first Italian band to shoot a video clip for a Vevo UK format in London, we played in Paris at the opening of the Phoenix and in Budapest at the Sziget, we personally produced our shows and played throughout Italy. We had incredible dates such as the ones at Alcatraz and Fabrique in Milan that were sold out, May Day in Rome as well as New Year’s Eve in Milan’s Piazza Duomo. We have had many radio passages and have just been awarded two gold discs among many other recent recognitions.

Your music talks about feelings, who do you refer to in your songs?

We refer to anyone that can relate to our path through his/her own experiences. A path that starts from the bottom but shows that with hard work and determination there is a light at the end of the tunnel.
Being a couple obviously reinforces this sense of sharing, but it is the “collaborating for a common goal” that probably creates an empathic effect on what we do.

What is your relationship with fashion?

We are curious and fascinated by fashion and have per- sonally taken care of every aspect of the project from day one including the aesthetics by trying to build a look that was as coherent as possible.
In the last year several brands have contacted us, and we hope in the future we will be able to carry on interacting with edgy brands.

Have you ever thought about collaborating with an international artist? If so, who and why?

It would be a dream to be able to work with rap artists such as Asap Rocky, Tyler the Creator, the genius that is Kanye, or more Pop-rock artists such as Tame Impala or Arcade Fire … if we have to dream we like to do it big, and we never say never. Sometimes certain collaborations are born from being in the right place at the right time so we will not exclude anything.

Milan is your city, that’s why the MILAMO project was born?

Absolutely yes, Milan is the artistic cradle where we started our journey. One of the first songs recited: “Melancholy Emo, Mi lamo”. This verse / play on words became a claim that we then put on sweatshirts and T-shirts and is therefore a fundamental part of our merchandise. At the moment we are cultivating an idea to evolve the “brand” and take it to the next step, but for now it remains a work in progress.

What are your future plans?

We are working on several fronts and will release some 27 new tracks however we want to do it by building a project around it, that for now is “top secret”. We have collaborations at stake with music producers of a certain caliber, and perhaps a minitour before the release of the next al- bum which will hopefully see the light at the end of this year / beginning of next.

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The Cosiest Season-Defining Jumpers That Spell Instant Bliss

Newsflash: cosy jumpers have whipped their sleekest revival. Now, whether you buy them cropped, long and laid-back, they semaphore simple and classic polish. And you don’t need to stick to the conventional silhouettes – induce a hint of subtle hues teamed with brights to champion seamless comfort and practicality (both highly coveted on a shopper’s list), and the perfect buy will offer both.

Opt for the cosy jumper: this versatile all-in-one staple is your swiftest route to practical chic. As seen on the autumn/winter 2020 catwalks, ease is the perfect way to make a statement, leaning towards a proof in timeless dressing.

This season, there’s a jumper for everybody. Marni’s macro bold-striped take oversized shapes cater a flattering, relaxed fit, while Bottega Veneta’s latest knitwear numbers deliver a wear-anywhere off-duty mood. Look to Etro for vibrant dramatics, Maison Margiela for the softest pastels and Givenchy for the smartest neutrals aboard. If you’re on a pursuit for amplified sophistication, consider pairing layers in matching hues.

The note says: effortless, fuss-free, sophisticated. Got it? Shop Man in Town’s edit of the jumpers bound to galvanise your spring wardrobe in just a heartbeat.  

MARNI

BLUE AND RED JUMPER IN MACRO STRIPES, £289, AT YOOX.COM

BOTTEGA VENETA 

TWISTED DETAILED KNIT JUMPER, £2,898, AT FARFETCH.COM

BOTTEGA VENETA

PANELLED CUTOUT ROLL NECK JUMPER, £1,365, AT FARFETCH.COM

MAISON MARGIELA 

ELBOW PATCH SWEATHER, £335, AT MAISONMARGIELA.COM

DRIES VAN NOTEN

KNITTED JUMPER IN MONOTONE, £334, AT YOOX.COM

ETRO 

SILK AND CASHMERE CREWNECK JUMPER, £690, AT ETRO.COM

GIVENCHY

BUTTON DETAIL JUMPER, £850, AT FARFETCH.COM

WOOD WOOD

GUNTHER SWEATHER, £145, AT WOODWOOD.COM

Cover photo: Photography by Chris Davies, styling by Jo Levi and grooming by Tina Elliott

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Could Serie A Become the Best League in Europe Again One day?

The domination that Serie A had over every other league in Europe in the 80s and early 90s seems as far away as ever these days. Long gone are the days that Serie A had the pull and the financial power to bring the world’s best players to Italy, but could that change in the future?

Where did it all go wrong for Serie A?

There’s no doubt about it that, during the 80s and 90s, Serie A was on to a good thing. So much so that the likes of the Brazilian Ronaldo made the league his home with Inter Milan, but the stars didn’t stop there. Maradona became an adopted son of Naples as he seduced the locals of Italy’s third-largest city. In fact, Maradona’s time was so much of a success that a documentary-cross-film has been made of the Argentine’s seven years and 188 appearances for Napoli.

These days, this Napoli side is unrecognizable compared to the team that Maradona once played in, and that isn’t because of their new head-turning kit from Kappa, but more the fact the global stars don’t end up in the South of Italy anymore.

Carrying on with more stories of the Serie A football stars from yesteryear, and who can forget Paul Gascoigne’s time at Lazio from 1992-1995? The Englishman became a cult hero for the Italian outfit and enjoyed an emotional return to the club in 2012. Gascoigne, though, was one of the last great exports that Serie A was able to bring in during the prime of their careers.

Slowly but surely the infrastructure of the Italian game was left behind as clubs around the continent, especially in England, began to modernize which made these leagues more marketable. Now, the more marketable a league is, the more commercial value it is likely to have.

Serie A’s refusal to move with the times would be the beginning of the league’s downfall and, if you think back, it’s crazy that the powers that be in Italy thought that stadiums built in the 50s, 60s, and 70s would be enough to sustain them heading into the new millennium. But it wasn’t just infrastructure that led to sponsors turning away from Serie A, it was also the style of football.

Fans want goals and not a technical masterclass

There was recently an extremely interesting, as well as revealing, interview with three West Ham players about the difference between Serie A and the Premier League. The players questioned, who had obviously played in both leagues, were Felipe Anderson, Angelo Ogbonna, and Carlos Sanchez.

The common theme that kept recurring was that the most significant difference was that Serie A was a lot more technical, with the Premier League far more frantic and end-to-end. These three players, who all currently play for West Ham, insisted that you get far less time on the ball in England whereas, in Italy, the option is there to take your time. Another interesting point is that it is acceptable to pass backwards a lot more in Italy but, in England, there will be a groan around the stadium with the fans demanding the ball is moved forward at every opportunity.

Now, it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out which brand of football would do more to capture the imagination of not only the next generation, but also fans from abroad. It’s no wonder that people say Serie A is not a league for young players.

Can Serie A regain its prestige and become the best in the world again?

There has been the odd sign or two that suggests change is coming, which gives you the lasting impression that Serie A is a league on the up. On the commercial front, the fact that Italian Information and Communications giants TIM have become the lead sponsor of the league, suggests that the big boys are once again prepared to invest in Italian football.

As far as infrastructure goes, the news that the San Siro is set to be demolished is both upsetting but also promising in equal measure. Of course, football lovers the world over would prefer that the cathedrals of European football be left alone but, in the San Siro’s case, it is a sign that there is a change in mindset in Italy. For instance, the San Siro was built in 1926 but only ever renovated once in 1990; you simply can’t make money without corporate hospitality, which in turn pays for great players to play in your stadium.

On the playing front, more and more big names are relocating to the Serie A, and there is no bigger name than Ronaldo in world football. The 35-year-old’s move to Juventus was another indication that the league is becoming relevant again.

This transfer has also done wonders for Juventus’ chances of winning nine league titles in a row when you consider that Betway has the Old Lady at odds of ½ to win Serie A, as of the 24th of February. Indeed, owners are becoming more ambitious, which can only be good news for the long-term future of the league.

There’s no doubt that this league is once again on the up and up, but how long it will take to get back to former glories is another matter.

Whilst the decision to improve is an admirable one, the other leagues around Europe (that haven’t been standing still for 25 years) will also be looking for ways to improve their own products. This gives you more of an accurate description of how big the task is; to not only move Italian football into the modern age, but to also see it overtake its competitors.

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The mini-guide on Rome

Rome is the city of the four seasons, it is always loved by people, and even if it murmurs of voices, the reflections of the shadows on the majestic Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi of Piazza Navona gives a religious inner silence, where you can see all the eyes that have crossed it during Roman history.

Rome is a simple man with a distinct and elegant suit, the museums and palaces that pass through it speak for themselves, sometimes nostalgic, sometimes touched by time, but always retaining some virile dignity. To be able to look into Rome you need a thousand eyes and a lot of heart; the straight line that connects one’s gaze to space must rise to the sky, where solemn columns rise to form what were once the homes of Roman emperors. The more you open, the more Rome gives beauty, but also for those who have little time, to take it in pinches and bites, Rome gives small goodies where you can stop for a two-day full immersion.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

MAXXI Museum – National Museum of the 21st Century Arts 

“About the spiritual matter of art” is the collective present at MAXXI, the National Museum of XXI century arts, in which nineteen internationally renowned artists participate, called to tell the theme of the spiritual through their contemporary gaze. Yoko Ono, among these, responds with a project in which spirituality is sharing and asks us to create the work with her, a common search, with different answers and paths.

The search for spirituality is a reflection that has long been followed in the history of art, which has almost always seen the attempt to represent the unrepresentable through the abstraction of art; Yoko Ono instead puts the material element at stake, asks to transform a thought, a dream, a word, into something visible, and then the white space takes shape, shows up, and to do so we have colors and brushes available and all our creativity.

The exhibition is open until March 15, 2020

Palazzo Barberini 

Palazzo Barberini is located in via Quattro Fontane and houses the important National Gallery of Ancient Art where the greatest masterpieces of pictorial art are kept together with Palazzo Corsini. Until 1949 the palace was the historic home of the Barberini family and was then sold to the Italian State; the famous helical staircase by Borromini connects the floors of the current museum where the famous fresco painted between the end of 1632 and 1639 by Pietro da Cortona, the “Triumph of Divine Providence“, extends to the main floor. 400 square meters of ceiling with a vortex of figures, natural and architectural elements that involve the viewer in an extraordinary visual and emotional adventure. The theme was elaborated by the court poet Francesco Bracciolini from Pistoia under the pontificate of Urban VIII, and tended to exalt the Pope, his family and the Church.

In the first rooms, a “Female Nude of the Back” by Pierre Subleyras (c. 1740) welcomes us; we are not given the name of the subject, nor can we recognize it or sense it, as often happened with the clothes, tinsel, symbols or iconography; identity is a mystery but the presence of this woman, in the complete nakedness of the body, makes one feel and anticipate by a century the embarrassment that another Frenchman, the painter Eduard Manet, will cause more sensation with the portrait of Olympia.

“Female nude from the back” by Pierre Subleyras 1740

In the hall dedicated to Caravaggio, there are three fundamental works of the great artist: Giuditta cuts off the head of Holofernes, Narcissus and San Francesco. The first, circa 1600, depicts the killing of the Assyrian general Holofernes by the hand of Judith, as narrated in the Old Testament among the Deuterocanonical texts (Judith, 13.9-10). For those unfamiliar with history, Giuditta is a young Jewish widow who lives in Betulia, a city attacked by Assyrian troops, led by Holofernes. To save her country Giuditta boldly decides to seduce the man and then kill him in a moment of weakness, while drunk he falls asleep, beheading him. In the painting, Caravaggio perfectly describes the features that animate the heroine, the same emphasis that pushes the brush to draw fear into Holofernes’ eyes. In the background of the scene, a fiery red cloth accentuates the theatricality of the gesture, amplifies the sensationalism of a surprise attack, an object that Caravaggio will often use in his other works.

Identical scene seen by the hand of Francesco Furini (Giuditta and Oloferne 1630-1635), with the addition of ambiguous and sensual details, framed under a tent in the middle of the night, such as Giuditta’s bare leg and the foot that indicates the sandals at the bottom loose, as the biblical text says: “his sandals kidnapped Holofernes’ eyes” and with these weapons, the conqueror was conquered.

Since 2011, the second floor of the building has hosted some works from the frivolous 18th century, such as “The little gardener” by Francois Boucher and “Girl out of bed” by Jean Frédéric Schall.

Madeleine, Via Monte Santo, 64 

Madeleine is a belle époque style bistro located in the Prati district of Rome; to pronounce it immediately comes to mind that French dessert savored by Proust who brought it back to involuntary memories. But not only madeleine, the restaurant welcomes guests from breakfast to dinner, it starts with a pain au chocolat, tarts, Saint Honorè, saffron macarons, cassis and pistachio, tarte citron meringuée, millefeuille with chantilly and berries, and we move on to the art of mixology with a five-piece arrondissement made of gin, elderberry, lime, simple syrup and red wine, to conclude with a stuffed rabbit roll, mushrooms, parmesan and puntarelle. On the walls could not miss the portraits of the great writer who inspired them, Proust precisely, and a collection of teapots that would drive Csaba dalla Zorza crazy. Downstairs, chinoiserie-style wallpaper and butterfly collections, useful as an excuse to invite a gentle lady to dinner.

PACIFIC Restaurant

At Palazzo Dama, one of the 5-star hotels in the capital, the second “Pacifico” has opened, a restaurant with Peruvian-Nikkei cuisine, after the success of the first Milanese space.
Jaime Pesaque, PACIFICO Corporate Chef, is considered among the best Peruvian chefs in the world and is the creator of the rich and delicious menu called “the highest expression of Nikkei cuisine in Italy”, dominated by ceviche, revisited tiradito, tacos and anticuchos, raw Italian-Japanese and a wide selection of Dim Sum accompanied by Peruvian sauces.

The ocean, as an element of union between countries, has taken on the intense blue color of the draperies and armchairs; the large chandeliers illuminate the rooms with a perfect light for a tête-à-tête dinner, soft and warm, so it must be; the lacquered glass tables, the brass details, majestic palm trees and the view of the swimming pool surrounded by a fruity garden, give the room an elegant and exotic air.
Until late in the evening, for nocturnal animals, the Palazzo Dama bar becomes the Pisco Bar, where you can enjoy the homonymous cocktail with dance steps.

Hotel Lord Byron, via Giuseppe De Notaris, 5 

Ancient patrician residence in the elegant Parioli district, the 5-star Hotel Lord Byron is the most exclusive and reserved place to stay during your stay in the capital. 

Close to the splendid Villa Borghese and a few minutes from Piazza del Popolo, this historic Art Deco-style villa offers the impeccable and discreet service of a hotel and the warm and caring welcome of a private home. 

Once the illustrious characters of the aristocracy used to stay here, today, in secret, politicians, actors and the jet set of Italian and international cinema gather in the halls of the restaurant. 

Suites, lounges, common areas are linked by a common denominator: the woman. Delightful female portraits accompany the halls of Lord Byron in a march that is a hymn to the woman. They are women in dresses with an elegant and refined feature, with cute hats and 1930s dresses; all ages of life pass, we are not given their identity, but we know that among these is hidden the face of the owner, who occasionally wanders around the walls of the villa, in disguise.

The Panoramic Suite offers a wonderful view of the Villa Borghese park; it is furnished in the Art Deco style of the early 1900s with fine mahogany and rosewood furniture, marble bathrooms, a complete courtesy set for Etro‘s body and hair, fine fabrics for bed linen and it is illuminated by day. A rich glass fruit bowl welcomes you to the room, overflowing like a sparkling Caravaggesque still life.

Jerry Thomas, speakeasy

A dark wooden door is waiting for you secretly to be opened, to do so you will need a password that you will find on the site of the restaurant (obviously hidden), having crossed the threshold, after having pronounced it in a low voice, the 1930s await you in full Prohibition, when alcohol is banned. Here there is only one rule: drink well. Jerry Thomas is, in fact, the first Italian “speakeasy” that falls within the “50 World Best Bar” ranking; it takes its name from the greatest American bartender who, thanks to his creative spirit, has been nicknamed “the father of the art of mixing cocktails”.

Mixology is the graduation of the components of this “secret bar“, an oasis of peace and ecstasy where you can ask for the scenic “Blue Blazer“, a preparation by the historic Professor based on Scotch whiskey and boiling water, the drink icon, the absolute king, a fiery rainbow that passes from one mug to another five times to be well mixed, a perfect dose of exercise and spectacularization.

Jerry Thomas is not a simple place, it is an experience to live, you are greeted with a mini glass of champagne with two drops of bergamot bitters and you feel immediately pampered; it is no coincidence to find starred chefs at the counter who refresh themselves with a Martinez cocktail and faithful compañeros who return for “the usual”. The clientele is international, talking in a low voice; the staff is trained and speaks five languages, I highly recommend an evening at the counter for those interested in the magical world of mixology; to taste a dish without knowing what you are eating you only enjoy it halfway.

The light is suffused and accompanied by the warm light of the candles; on the red walls, the portraits of the greatest gangsters in history; the famous “Professor’s Vermouth” is due to the founders of the restaurant, the first product of a long series, the result of a creative laboratory between the brand and the Quaglia distilleries. Jerry Thomas is the ideal place to turn the tide of an evening!

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The fabulous thought of Italian Fashion

The Italian fashion of the FW 2020-21 is more inspired than ever. It lets itself be carried away by new provocations and romantic celebrations of the dearest culture to us. It plays with nonsense and surreal scenarios marking the time and celebrating its myths. But it does not neglect the attention to “sustainability”, a process in which CNMI (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) has involved its Associates and operators representing the supply chain of the entire Italian fashion system.

Set in a forest of threads, the Ermenegildo Zegna collection is practical and functional, characterized by over shapes on jackets and shirts, it is strongly committed to respect the environment, thanks to the use of cashmere and recycled wool further expanding the approach #UseTheExisting in blends of natural and synthetic fibers. “Our art has a duty to respect the earth. It is our mission, both as human beings and as a designer” explains Alessandro Sartori, Artistic Director of the brand, who has chosen the most evocative colors that dress nature: mastic, sandstone, cloudy sky, brown quartz, dark loden illuminated by touches of rose gold, copper, red amber and peacock blue.

The Dolce & Gabbana woman recovers the art of “handmade” by placing in the foreground the traditional values ​​of Made in Italy that distinguish the value of our manufacture from that of the rest of the world. 121 looks that tell each one a different story, an authentic memory. Pinstriped wools and houndsteeth also for the female double-breasted jacket, complete with peaked lapels and “coppola” hats for a woman with a strong and sensual identity.

The same values ​we find in the men’s collection of the two designers, who deeply believe in the precious values ​​of craftsmanship and in the importance that they are handed down from generation to generation, to protect the immense heritage of our culture and our workers. Dolce & Gabbana’s “Art Crafts” are told by men who embody the aspects of beautiful Italy made of sun, fruits, and breathtaking landscapes. With their authentic faces, dressed in wool tweed, tartan, houndstooth, velvet.

In a scenario that represents abstract squares that communicate with each other through red-lit doors, Prada once again celebrates the woman’s innate authority and strength that are highlighted through her actions. Infinite, as multifaceted is the female personality and her choices that lead her to bravely face opposite itineraries. Dynamism, therefore, plays a fundamental role in women’s clothing, which is why it is presented in a superior aesthetic key. The fringes, a constant declined in different materials that mark the rhythm of the action directed in different directions and purposes: in the revisited suits, in the glamorous knitwear, on blazers or bright sequin dresses that unleash the maximum of femininity. Floral prints in a digital key with elements that appeal to the world of sport and technical fabrics for practicality with high intellectual content.

The men’s collection is represented in squares where the foundations of Renaissance architecture are lived together with graphics and digital projections to underline how past and present live together, that everything we are experiencing already has a historical value. Men observed from above, whose paths cross in a game of exciting style that contrasts traditional materials with recycled technological fibers that are already part of our stylistic heritage. Old and new coexist infusing each other’s energy, through a new interpretation.

All men, with multifaceted personalities, in the Ferragamo world painted by Paul Andrew. From the businessman to the biker, to the irresistible charm of the pilot, the sailor and the soldier’s uniform, and finally the surfer, re-edited with materials typical of the metropolitan wardrobe. Consecrated portraits of different male personalities who change their wetsuits and present themselves on the catwalk with contemporary cuts of great impact and a mix of precious materials such as wool, cashmere and leather in an unusual and stimulating way.

The women’s collection is also divided by archetypes, but the inspiration is the great women of history: “dressing defines the body and goes beyond the concept of clothing, now obsolete for both men and women. We were inspired by the intelligence, courage and charisma of some female icons such as Virginia Woolf, Nancy Pelosi, Nina Simone and Michelle Obama” comments Creative Director Paul Andrew. Sandals or scarves revisited in leather, fabrics and embroidery. Rubber soles and high boots in stretch leather, recycled materials and vegetable dyes. A strong, courageous, elegant and formal woman but at the same time bold, capable of questioning, practical and glamorous.

After five years of creative direction in the Gucci fashion house, Alessandro Michele explodes with a show with a revolutionary flavor. He invites us to look at everything with the eyes of a child. Free from preconceptions, the rules that impose customs and modus vivendi imposed by society. The scene is dominated by a gigantic pendulum by Foucault, a symbol of a cultural context that marks the fate of men and women, also determining their personal choices. Hence the invitation to reflect on the need to be free to find oneself, without the chains of stereotypes that have contaminated our personality and the path of our lives, on what is right and wrong. Sweatshirts that express a clear invitation to reflect Think, schoolboy aprons in contrast with punk hairstyles and on ripped denim, other words impatient and impotent are a clear reference to the often strangled desire to express oneself. The intent in which the designer in this show,  to depict the out of the ordinary, has succeeded very well. 

Last but not least, King Giorgio has always the keys of elegance in his hand. The collection built for him is enveloping, the protagonist fabrics are pleasant to the touch and ideal for enhancing the figure of the man. The velvet declined in different shapes and weights, even on the lapels like a soft shawl; warm and thick mountain wools on jacquard knitwear, impalpable wools on coats, jackets and trousers, follow the movements of the body in a fluid way.

The aspects of masculine elegance are softened to be shared with the female wardrobe: jacquard maxi ties complete looks made up of large trousers with turn-ups and pleats, while Napoleonic velvet uniforms enhance the female silhouette in the collections of Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani. As camouflage prints, they take the form of sparkling floral decorations in jackets and soft pants. He concludes the show with a selection of looks from the Giorgio Armani Privé spring/summer 2009 and 2019 collections, inspired by China, a country with which the designer has always had a special, aesthetic and cultural link.

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Ten things to do during the bittersweet quarantine

I’m writing down on the first page of every book I read, the date I will never forget, I’m writing down COVID-19, and I’m sure my memory in the future won’t need any explanation. 

A Pandemic was declared by the WHO (World Health Organization), we are all forced to stay at home, to go out only to obtain essential goods or for medical emergencies; some people think it’s a plot, they believe that Covid-19 is a biological weapon, instead other people believe in science. Of course we know that nature is rebelling, it is stopping us in its own way, the global pollution is decreasing, we can read it in the maps by NASA; there are no cars around the cities, the industrial plants are closed together with the factories and the workplaces. The impact of this forced quarantine showed in few weeks a clear climate improvement. It is like a punishment from above to which we must obey. A chain which passes also in the houses and among the relatives, we feel the lack of people that we could see before and now we are not allowed to see, no hugs, no kisses, only virtual images which we will begin to hate after too much time of addiction. We dream about a coffee with a friend, a journey with a mate, a walk in the city center; we start desiring people who are dear to us, finally giving them the right weight because before we were too busy to run from an office to another. 

Now we have a great opportunity and resource: time. It allows us to know ourselves and elevate to noble things. So, let’s start learning

Here a small list of the endless things we can do during this bittersweet quarantine. 

Ten things to do during this bittersweet quarantine:

1. Read the tale “Voce di bambù fiori di pesco” by Yasunari Kawabata.
There are no more suitable words in this moment to narrate the relationship between man and nature. A tale-hope to the illumination. 
Kawata is certainly an author who is able to describe this indescribable. Read this tale in the silence of your rooms. It will help you.

2. Train your mind with “il giro della mente in 80 test”, a scientific book with nice psychological tests which will measure your intelligence. If you are lucky you can do it with your relatives, and you will have fun to nourish your brain health. 

3. Cook good and healthy things, and if you are unable, it’s the moment to learn!
In “Il grande ricettario” by Gualtiero Marchesi, the chef’s bible, you will find more than 1200 Italian recipes revisited by the great Master of Culinary art. You are always in time to cook “trippa alla Fiorentina” and play and vote with the diners like in “4 ristoranti”. 

4. Speaking of cooking, Philippe Daverio, popular art critic but also good eater, shows and explains us the birth of good habits at the table in “A pranzo con l’arte” by Rizzoli. Did you know that the habit to eat outdoor comes from the golden age of King Louis XV? He picnicked during the game hunting and he ate the food which was cooked before by the chefs of the Court, such as Arancino, an invention of the chef Federico II of Svevia in Sicily. With Philippe Daverio you never stop learning while having fun. 

5. Write a sort of “logbook”, pages that tell your mood and the events of these days. Take some of your time to go down to the darkest and most hidden side of yourself and turn on a light. With each passing day, you will illuminate the whole house. 

6. Write a letter to the person you love. Love has infinite forms, the recipient can be a friend, your mother, your sister; turn your thoughts into words because words have a strong force. Everything you don’t say because of your shyness or cultural legacies, color it on a blank sheet with lovely and kind words. It will be good for you, for your relationships, it will be honey for your heart.

7. Start a course on calligraphy. The volume “Lettering creative ma non solo” introduces you to the art of calligraphy. You will come back to the ABC as the first day of primary school but with the objective to turn your “doctor writing” into a “geisha writing”. Only then you will be able to bag the poetry of desperate love and stamp it with a sealing wax (obviously red and with your initials). Writing in a silk robe, with a quill on the coiffeuse of your bedroom will inspire you a lot. 

8. Do something you always postpone. Very often we find excuses because we are lazy, insecure, listless, because we don’t think we can do it, because we are scared of changes, results and judgments. Let Covid-19 and fears outside your door and abandon your own dreams: the book you have never written, the photo you have never taken, the words you have never pronounced. Let yourself go and follow the wave of impulsivity, at least now. Do it. 

9. Taking care of your body helps the mind to be freer and more reactive; never take it for granted. Prepare a warm bath with half a cup of bicarbonate and ten drops of Oil31, a miraculous mixture which is good for every ailment. Bicarbonate is anti-fatigue, relaxing and tonifying; Oil31 instead is antibacterial, painkiller and antirheumatic. While you are immersed, you can listen to “Tristano e Isotta” by Wagner and sip that 2012 Barolo Docg which you were guarding for a special moment. That moment has come. 

10. Watch all the filmography of Wong Kar-wai. A lesson of grace, sublime photography and Chinese poetry. Master of erotic art and romantic sentimentalism his women are beautiful and ambiguous. The atmospheres of his movies, nocturnal and dreamlike, hot like an oil lamp, the main characters, slippery as paper lamps. 
In my opinion, one of the greater filmmakers alive. 

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At the cinema with Maurizio Lombardi

Whilst the Italian actor, Maurizio Lombardi, was born in Florence, it is not a simple task identifying him geographically because of a very international profile and a high demand from directors of the same caliber as Paolo Sorrentino.

From January 10th we will see him starring in “The New Pope”, alongside Jude Law and John Malkovich, as well as the third season of “Riviera” – all on SKY.

You are used to working with large productions, how was working on the new Pope Set?

I don’t want to use too pompous terms, but there is little to do, Paolo is truly a champion in all respects. It is astonishing how much control he has on the set, and more over the trust and esteem he places towards his team who is better oiled than a Swiss watch. He speaks very little and does not impose anything upon the actors, instead, it is as if he knows that whoever orbits him can do their job adequately and therefore further instruction would be superfluous.

How did Sorrentino choose you?

It is all thanks to Annamaria Sambucco, a phenomenal Italian casting director who has great taste and above all, is extremely prepared. She had already proposed me to Paolo for “The great beauty” but for unknown reasons, I was not chosen. Maybe because on that occasion I had been more concerned with interviewing him as I was so mesmerized and curious to know about him!

What evolution of your character we must expect?

I was surprised by my ambiguous character because he is a cardinal, but at the same time in love, and as we all know love can lead to dangerous borders. We will have to see if this love will lead to something or not, but I cannot reveal any more otherwise the viewers have too much information in their hands.

The third season of “Riviera” always on sky is also arriving, tell me something about this project.

I can tell you that it was an incredible personal and emotional journey since the shooting took place in Venice in parallel with the presentation of “The new pope” at the Venice Film Festival. Going from the red carpet with Sorrentino, and then being picked up by a taxi to shoot with another international cast inside a crazy palace in Venice, to then return to the Lido for interviews, made it really hard to stay calm. The beauty of it is that I didn’t know Riviera therefore it was fantastic to be amazed by the glamor and the fashion side of the series.

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Music Stories: the alchemy of Darrn

We chat with DARRN a new rising music band, born in Rome in 2015, who recently launched the new EP “Chimica”.

How did you meet?

We met in two different moments. The first to know each other were the two producers [Cristian and Den- nis], through a mutual friendship, at the age of 18. We both wanted to throw ourselves into creating something together, in order to escape from that teenage trap of doing covers of Green Day or Evanescence in horrible rehearsal rooms (we still went through that phase, there is no escape). At first, we did some sort of strange progressive rock.
We almost immediately took a break from that period. After a year, however, we were back together in the room looking for more electronic sounds and a more intimate dimension, to create a type of music that would satisfy us. It was 2014/2015 and the trap transition was taking place in Italy. We wanted to follow that wave a little, but in a much more personal way, creating our own sound. Dennis (the producer) was enrolled in some singing lessons at the time and made his teacher listen to the music we made. At the time we were looking for someone who could talk to our musical world. Dario (the singer) was attending the same lessons with the same teacher, who acted as an intermediary. He recommended a boy to us who he said was a strong composer who could sing our music. We met and a week later we had already finalized a song (which will never come out).

What is the origin of the name DARRN?

It has no specific meaning. Before we met, Dario published some tracks in English on YouTube with the name Darren; a nickname originating from school. When we decided to work together the difficulty was putting together three different heads to find a name. At the time we went to mix our music at Stabber (a Italian music producer ndr). He simply gave us the suggestion to continue using that name and we for copyright reasons (since there is already a Darren making music in the world) we take out the E. The same problem that The Weeknd had with his name. Then if you go to the Urban Dictionary and type Darren you can read something like: “A good looking, intelligent, straight individual who is known for partying hard and getting all the ladies” lol. So we love it and decided to keep DARRN.

Which artists are inspiring you?

James Blake, The Weeknd with his “Trilogy”, Frank Ocean with “Blond” and “Endless” and also Sampha with “Process”. And recently we are in love with Crush by Floating Points

How was your “Chemistry” EP is born?

By CHEMISTRY we mean something that can join – and is physically created by the release of serotonin and dopamine – but it can also divide, when these substances are missing. CHEMISTRY is the difficulty in finding a perfect balance between two people, from the balance between rational and irrational. The chemistry to which we refer to is the essence of our personalities, which continually collide and can create new matter, or choose whether to wander alone in search of an alternative solution. The EP is going well. The fact is that before numbers, we would like to see what the audience’s response is when we do live concerts – that is the most important moment for us. So as soon as we start playing around we will let you know.

Your plans for the future and dreams in the drawer

For now we are working on new music and we are creating a live show that makes the most of the intimate dimension of the tracks of CHIMICA. A dream is certainly to be able to write an album around the world: go to the studio in Tokyo or Berlin, record something in Bangkok and mix everything at Jeff Ellis’ in Los Angeles. In fact, it’s still a dream…

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Gathering of Strangers

From Manchester to the world: the rise of indie rock.

The Manchester based band were indeed five strangers who gathered in the city in September 2015 to begin their musical study. Hailing from Birmingham, Scunthorpe and Carlisle, over the next 3 years Conor Rabone (23 vocals) Tom Wingate (22 guitar) Bruce Higgs (23 bass/keys) Peter Crampsey (24 drums) and Andre Ilkiw (22 guitar/bass) all came from different musical and cultural backgrounds.

Since moving to Manchester and meeting at ‘BIMM’ music college they developed their style taking in many musical influences to create a sound that is unique, far from other infamous comparisons (do the Gallagher brothers ring any bell?) and that boasts about a new course for indie rock.

The name is also a homage to the work of light artist Nathan Coley, and ‘Gathering of Strangers’ is in fact a light work that welcomes the Gallery Entrance at Whitwork Park in Manchester.

The boys were all fans of this artwork and asked for permission to use it as the name of the band. What makes them special, besides the artistic reference and the good looks? They write anthemic songs that scream passion and a sound that feels like a velvet touch.

Over the coming years regular shows across the city and around the UK saw the five-piece build a cult following of avid fans who ‘couldn’t get enough’ of their captivating symphonies alongside the energy and passion that exuded from their electric presence on stage. 

Conor’s voice is deep and warm, the melody is fluid, melancholic and psychedelic at the same time. A new rhythm that is intoxicating without question. Behind this route to success (their record ‘Lady’ was record of the week on local radios in December 2019) they have five very different personalities and each draw from separate and personal musical influences, which in turn effects how they write music as a collective.

Conor says: “We came together to study in Manchester and now consider it our adopted home. We are currently writing our most forward thinking and power-driven music to date and plan to express ourselves even further as we grow and move forward”.

Their First release ‘Nice Hair’ (June 2018) set the tone and the follow-up ‘Lady’ (March 2019) brought them much attention having worked with Neal ‘X’ Whitmore (Marc Almond/Sigue Sigue Sputnik), Cenzo Townshend (Decoy studios) to mix and Frank Arkwright (Abbey Road) to master.

With the power and rawness of 70’s inspiration, ‘Lady’, their most famous hit has all the flair of the old classics yet with a deeply modern twist. Their easy-going attitude made it a pleasure to meet with them for this exclusive editorial and a lot of fun to watch on stage. They are contemporary rockstars that are humble, kind and respectful with 29 anyone they find in their path, whether it’s the press, their fans or other musicians.

These extremely talented young boys have now set their sights on the rest of the world and we are confident they will conquer a wider audience. Good music, style and savoir-faire, all at once. Watch this space.

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Mankind Seen by Juan Castano

A highly pop and comical aesthetic with very personal humor lends an apparent lightness to Castano’s unconventional and mischievous works. His strikingly bold and clear style immediately involves the viewer, but is also an invitation for deeper reading and interpretation.

Whilst his work resonates closely with the LGBT community and is extremely conscientious, an irreverent and disenchanted undercurrent suggests Juan is telling tales of his own experiences, which do not always have a dreamy and princely ending, but often remain suspended between the grotesque and the kawaii.

How was your approach to art?
When did you decide to become an illustrator?

I think that somehow art has always been present in my life. As a child I always loved drawing, and I loved painting books. I don’t think I ever decided to become an illustrator, I just began spending more and more time drawing which led me to discover the world of digital illustration. Then suddenly people began commissioning me.

Tell me something about your work, how would you describe your illustrations?

Well, I think that my illustrations are a mix of many artistic influences and styles that I admire: Japanese illustration, constructivism, art deco … and the result is work that combines eroticism and naivety with simple lines and colors.

manintown cover

In my opinion there is a certain Japanese in- spiration behind them and obviously they are very pop.
Which are your main artistic influences?

This influence is certainly more obvious in my first works yet it has never been lost as I have evolved as an artist. As for influential artists I always name Junko Mizuno; her work is fascinating, Rodchenko and Popova, whom I discovered in an exhibition in London, Malika Favre, Sanna Annuka… and many more.

Which are your main references when it comes to illustrations?

In the case of illustration, Maria Picassó i Piquer; her works hypnotize me and convey a total mastery of proportion and characterization. Jarom Vogel; his palette and work are amazing, and Roda’s work is ab- solutely brilliant with a use of color I envy.

Talking about style, what is elegant for you?

For me, elegance is something timeless. I don’t think it is merely about simplicity or dressing in basic clothes, I think it’s a step further; it’s a talent, something you are born with or without in the same garment, one can exude elegance and another cannot.

“Urban Cowboy”
in exclusive for MANINTOWN wearing DSquared2 f/w 2019-20

What is fashion for you? And which are the essentials in your personal wardrobe and style? 

Fashion has always been present in my life. When I was younger and going out at night, I could spend an hour trying on clothes, choosing what to wear that night to ensure I was not to go unnoticed. I have always liked to see what is going to take and what is not, and I usually read a lot of fashion magazines. I’m not a fashion victim and if there is something that does not fit, I do not wear it. Let’s say I like fashion but I do not obsess over it. I’m going to say something very obvious; in my closet there are always jeans – I can’t live without them. I find them very comfortable and I can use them for practically any event.

One of the focus as MANINTOWN is travelling. Can you tell us something about your country/your hometown. Like a place to see, a place where to eat, something to do...

I am lucky to have been born in the best country in the world he he he… I am from Spain and was born in Cartagena; a city in the southeast, but currently I spend most of the week in Alicante, a coastal city near the south of Valencia. It is a very touristy city that has many visitors all year round. Throughout the area there are beautiful beaches and wonderful places like Altea or La Granaella. It is very typical to eat rice (not the same as paella), cooked in a variety of different ways amongst many other tasty gastronomic delights. More over, the people of Ali- cante and Spain “in general” are very friendly.

“Waiting”
in exclusive for MANINTOWN wearing a coat by Neil Barrett f/w 2019-20

Projects for the future?

Right now, I am working on an illustrated book for adults, a kind of sea story, with tritons and sailors of course. I am also waiting for a children’s book that I have illustrated to be published. As for future projects, I hope to finish a book dedicated to mythology by mid-2020 and my dream is to be able to devote myself full-time to illustration.

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8 Of The Best Workwear-Savvy Hybrids Geared To Stir Up Your Spring Wardrobe

In these transitional months, versatility breathes new life into a shopper’s wardrobe. As spring tosses-off winter’s icy grip, we’re invited to rethink about our style conundrum by injecting a refreshing take on season-appropriate staples. But which one will you choose?

This season’s trend instructions are far too tantalising to let go. Sway your maximalist palavers into a minimalist fantasy – and opt for the smarter side of casual, with a tinge of a tongue-in-cheek tonal edge.

Exude a freshly structured pair of trouser and team up streamlined cuts, that guarantee an instant metaphor of tasteful stir. Solve all major workwear blues by energising your image when choosing heart-halting tailored updates.

Case in point: Arket’s utility-inspired cosy numbers, Acne Studios’ winsome practicality or Scotch & Soda’s manageable affair. Out there, a myriad of options retains a delicious style currency, ready to skyrocket your head-to-toe take on duty sleek.

From Valentino, Bottega Veneta and Weekday too, here are Man In Town’s favourite workwear-savvy hybrids to steal the limelight in this transitional period. You’re welcome. 

PRADA

LONG HEAVY POPLIN SHIRT, £640, AT PRADA.COM

PRADA

DOUBLE-BRESTEAD COTTON GABARDINE JACKET, £2,200, AT PRADA.COM

ACNE STUDIOS

GRANDAD COLLAR SUEDE SHIRT, £1050, AT ACNESTUDIOS.COM

ARKET

STRIPED OVERSIZE SHIRT, £115, AT ARKET.COM

SCOTCH & SODA 

DENIM TRENCH COAT, £199, AT SCOTCH-SODA.COM

VALENTINO

DOUBLE-FACED COAT, £2,450, AT VALENTINO.COM

BOTTEGA VENETA

STORM LEATHER DERBY SHOES, £720, AT FAFERTCH.COM

WEEKDAY

JIM LEATHER JACKET, £225, AT WEEKDAY.COM

Cover photo: Photography by Chris Davies, styling by Jo Levi and grooming by Tina Elliott

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Botox might benefit man’s love life

It’s now established that a lot of men use Botox and to back it up there are some data that in the last years show a turnaround. Men who use Botox far outweigh the female sex. The numbers in respect tell us that women who ask for aesthetic medical treatments are the 74% against the 85% of men, a number which looks destined to grow because of the numerous benefits shown by the use of Botox as a booster of sexual life. We talk about these recent studies and possible applications with the Doc. Nicola Macchione, urologist of the hospital San Paolo in Milan. 

What do we talk about exactly when we use the term Botox? 

For Botox we mean the commercial and purified form of the neurotoxin A of “clostridium botulinum”, a germ which belongs to the family of tetanus, gram + which produces spores. It’s the most toxic protein known, with a very low lethal dose, but fortunately thermolabile (you can destroy it with heat). 

Having regard to its toxicity, why is it used in medicine? 

The mechanism of action which is used in medicine is the ability of this toxin to cause a muscle paralysis. The botulinum toxin acts at the level of the nerve-muscle junction (where nerve and muscle come together) by inhibiting the release of acetylcholine from the nerve ending, a “messenger” of the nerve which tells the muscle to contract. This determines a “relaxation” of muscle fibers and the disappearance of the famous wrinkles. 

In addition to wrinkles it seems that Botox is a real help to improve the sexual life of men, isn’t it? 

As often happens in medicine, a molecule finds almost always more fields of application, in fact we try to exploit its mechanism of action in all the situations in which a reduction of the contraction of muscle fibers can be useful. Many studies to show the action of Botox on male genitals have been performed. 

Tell us more details.. 

One of the fields in which it seems to be more beneficial is when it is used for the premature ejaculation. In fact, in a recent study, performed on a sample of 70 patients, by doing an injective treatment with the botulinum toxin at the level of Bulbospongiosus muscles (responsible of the ejaculatory reflex) they got an increase in the times of ejaculation. These data have immediately appeared encouraging, in fact other similar studies are in progress to offer another therapeutic action for the treatment of premature ejaculation. 

And as regards the erectile dysfunction? 

Also in this case the efficacy of Botox has been shown in many studies. The rational of this use is in the fact that the “release” of the smooth muscle fibers of the tissue of corpora cavernosa cause an increase of the blood supply to the penis, improving in this way the quality of the erection. In the near future it could represent another therapeutic line for the erectile dysfunction. 

In what other circumstances is it possible to use Botox? 

For example, in the issues affecting the scrotum. Better known as “scrotox”, is a surgical treatment that involves the injection of the botulinum toxin at the level of the muscle responsible for testicular contraction, which means the Cremaster. The first clinical experience, who gave the way to this treatment, dates back to 2011, when this procedure was executed on a boy affected by testicular pain, non-responsive to other therapies, related to the hypercontraction of the Cremaster. Since then, in addition to functional reasons, this treatment is also executed for “aesthetic” reasons, to reduce the tone of the Cremaster and to allow the testicles not to go up to the abdominal cavity. The aesthetic reason is in the fact that this condition determines an apparent increase of the scrotal volume. A similar effect is achieved also for the penis. 

In what way this treatment can improve the penis size? 

Actually, it is a similar condition, but you act on a different site. In a recent study, in fact, has been shown that by injecting Botox at the level of the subcutaneous fibromuscular tissue, the level of penile retraction in a state of flaccidity is reduced. It determines an apparent increase of the the size of the organ in a state of rest. It exists, in fact, situations (stress, cold, workout) where the reflection of the penile retraction is very high, by determining an erroneous perception of the penis size and so discomfort. For this reason, this procedure is interesting for all the patients that suffer from the “locker room syndrome”. 

The effect is temporary? Are there particular contraindications? 

Yes, the activity of the botulinum toxin at the level of the neuromuscular junction is reversible. The effects of Botox are limited in time. They depend on the dose and on the site of injection while the collateral effects reported in all the studies are few and far between. They are all outpatient operations, so they don’t include a hospitalization. After the treatment it’s not necessary to observe special precautions. 

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Alef: craftmanship without compromise

Talking with Alessia Ariemma and Tiziano Colasante

ALEF Bags are Made In Italy, which means excellence in materials, centuries long best craftsmanships and never compromising on quality. The brand is the result of the partnership between two different depths and solid entrepreneurial activities and to the meeting of Tiziano Colasante and Alessia Auriemma. We talked about it with Alessia Ariemma and Tiziano Colasante, who joined forces to launch Alef.

How did you start the project?

ALEF is a brand born thanks to the meeting between Alessia Ariemma and Tiziano Colasante. Alessia is a marketing expert and trend specialist in the fashion and beauty sector working as a consultant for several Italian and multinational companies. Tiziano has been an entrepreneur in the leather industry for over thirty years with experience in the development and production of bags for major brands, including Balenciaga, Versace, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Bottega Veneta just to name a few. Our meeting took place about 6 years ago thanks to a project developed for a common client. From our creative and professional affinity, we developed the idea of creating a brand completing each other’s skills. The brand was born 4 years ago and it’s expanding. Initially, the line included only women’s styles which has been enriched by a new dedicated collection for men soon after the launch.

How do you develop the men’s and women’s collections?

Each collection is born primarily from market and extensive trends research. The search for shapes and volumes stands for that each individual item is designed for a specific target, which is very transversal. Our woman customer is a woman who still feels a little princess like and loves to play with accessories and colours. A lover of beauty and quality, who wants to give a twist to her look in a personal way. The Alef man could be called an urban classic. He loves the contamination of styles, perhaps wearing nonchalantly a typical large mountain backpack or a duffle bag in the city even if he is not traveling. The research that is carried out ranges from the type of materials, to the colours and details, such as the weaving that has been characterizing both collections lately. The creative part of designing the models and setting up the details for each model is usually done by four hands with Tiziano, who then directs the entire prototyping and production phase with his company Propel srl, which operates in the sector for 30 years and boasts excellence in Italian leather goods manufacturing.

How do you combine the tradition and value of Made in Italy with innovation?

ALEF is a brand that is totally produced in Italy using mainly materials of Italian origin. The manufacture is carried out entirely within the company which has a thirty-year artisan tradition. The brand, together with its creators and Propel srl, promotes the ‘Made in Italy’ with its product by defending its quality and creativity features in the world. At the same time, the company, working primarily for established brands has gradually adapted to the demands of the big players and the needs for speeding up the processes, guaranteeing excellent quality by equipping itself with the latest generation machinery, such as laser cutting machines, for computerized embroidery and prototype development with CAD. Each activity is supervised by its department representatives who guarantee its quality, allowing to combine absolutely manual and artisan activities with activities carried out thanks to new technologies, but without losing the taste for the “handmade”. The logo of the ALEF brand refers precisely to this. In fact, the elements that intersect in the graphic part of the logo are Alfa (tradition), Omega (innovation) and Tao (the constant change to achieve excellence while maintaining the values of tradition).

How is the brand evolving in the near future?

ALEF has currently seen development especially abroad, thanks to its presence in international shops and a corner shop in New York City (Wooster Street). Our communication activity has been influenced by the digital media, so we started developing many collaborations with influencers at an international level. Last year we also created a capsule collection for Chiara Ferragni’s The Blond Salad, which also gave us a lot of visibility. Our goal is to further expand our international network, but also to develop our presence in our country. That’s why for 2020 we will open a flagship store in the heart of Milan’s luxury street Via della Spiga. This is a great step for us that confirms our commitment to implement our local presence, but also with the aim of placing ALEF on the market as a new brand of excellence in Italian leather goods.

Alef is the beginning, symbol of Energy, force, continuity, stability. It is also the center from which the thought form radiates.

Every product is designed, developed and manufactured exclusively in Italy and transmits taste for the new and love for the tradition of craftsmanship combined with the most advanced techniques of leather processing and the use of innovative fabrics and materials.

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Sustainable Fashion: Hand Picked

A collection inspired by nature and its colours, focusing on extreme high quality materials, sustainability and ‘Made in Italy’ production

How was the Hand Picked project born?

As a private label of Giada SpA, Hand Picked was born in SS19, presenting itself to the public with a capsule of 15 pieces and based on a green philosophy. Hand Picked was born from Giada’s desire to optimize all the know-how acquired in over 30 years of activity that had made it a world leader in the luxury denim sector.

How is the brand evolving after the first few seasons?

After the launch at Pitti Uomo in June 2018, Hand Picked is now positioned in over 250 stores world- wide with a collection that in the AW20 / 21 season is made up of 117 items including trousers and various different tops.

What are the details that make the collection special?

The items in the collection are the result of a lot of research regarding the mainly eco-sustainable materials and the style. The production chain of each pair of trousers, characterized by tailored manufacturing, requires about 80 steps to reach completion with a processing time 3/4 times longer than any other 5 pockets. Giada, in fact, has always been attentive to detail, epitomised by the pocket bag adorned with the logoed border – a distinctive mark of the brand, and embroidered with a comb point, hand-hammered copper buttons and rivets, a grograin sewn inside the button panel, and the label made of appleskin.

Which are the iconic items of the capsule?

Giada is famous all over the world for its 5 pockets so the garment that best represents us is the Ravello style together with the Orvieto, however other items exhibiting a comfort concept have been a success.

How important is sustainability for the brand?

Hand Picked is based on the eco-friendly concept because we believe in the importance of fashion brands contributing to the protection of the environment. In addition to the eco-friendly materials, the different stages of processing are characterized by sustainability. In addition to recycling 60/70% of our water, we reuse waste materials such as pumice stone (used in gardening) and fabrics recycled from the automotive industry.

Denim represents the core business of Giada SpA, how has the market changed in recent years?

Today, the denim fabric, which was firstly used for work uniform and therefore worn by workers, has become a must have to be worn at any time of the day and in any situation because of its versatility and ability to transform from sportswear into elegant garment.

The challenges and plans for the future?

Giada counts on a workforce made up of about employees, both direct and indirect. Amongst our specialized and passionate team, we aim for increasingly ambitious goals and a further reach towards new markets where the demand for tailored garments is becoming increasingly popular.

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Claudio Marenzi’s: innovation technology for the planet

Teamwork is the key to achieve the maximum for the company’s eco-sustainable projects inspired by the en- chantment of Lake Maggiore.

President and CEO of Herno, one of the leading companies in the Italian fashion system, boasts a history of more than seventy years, and Claudio Marenzi is a reference point for what concerns innovation and market growth in our country.

It is no coincidence that he is the President of Pitti Immagine and Confindustria Moda where 66,000 ‘Made in Italy’ companies converge, belonging to all the production chains of fashion and accessories, which together generate a turnover of 95.5 billion euros.

At Pitti Uomo 97, technological innovation confirms its focus and without a doubt is the secret to the company’s success and the backbone along which their slogan “functionality beyond aesthetics” runs tirelessly.

And with what, if not with the Herno Laminar ABSOLUTE, a trail running shoe but with a picturesque urban look. Made in Gore-Tex with a Vibram Megagrip sole, which, thanks to its high-performance grip, guarantees maximum stability on any terrain.

An objective achieved thanks to teamwork within S.C.A.R.P.A, a leading company in the sector.

The strong point, in fact, of an entrepreneur like him is to be able to recognize the best of Italian excellence in order to create partnerships capable of producing real innovations ready to outperform the market.

But a successful company can no longer disregard the environmental needs of the planet, needs that are also heavily requested by users who are revealing themselves as being increasingly aware and responsible for the planet.

And here’s the real revolution: 2 duvets (a bomber and a coat) completely biodegradable – it takes just 5 years to be completely disposed of, accessories and feather padding included.

In addition to these exceptional projects, the company proposes 2 other green ideas that pay attention to the yarns: a parka, a coat and a blazer in ECONYL® 100% regenerated nylon produced with used fishing nets and carpet waste destined for landfill, and even the padding is obtained from disused duvets.

Furthermore, a peacoat and a coat are elegantly woven from melange wool, also recycled from waste materials.

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The Ethical Revolution of Brunello Cucinelli

His humanistic capitalism has changed the way of doing business through the support of culture and free time.

He is the king of cashmere produced in the ancient Umbrian village of Solomeo, whose revolutionary entrepreneurial system defends and promotes the values of culture, tradition and above all human dignity.

A particular cultural focus is highlighted along- side the importance of using free time constructive- ly with a well-defined limit to working hours. It is strongly advised that from 17:00 onwards one must not to answer emails and business calls, and instead dedicate the time to everything that can deeply enrich the mind and soul. 

“The tasks of the craftsman and the worker are hard and repetitive. And if I make you work after hours, I steal your soul. Besides, creativity is only where beauty is”.

Along with achieving a well-deserved honorary degree in philosophy, Cucinelli is the master of credible elegance, a true advocate of ‘Made in Italy’ around the world, and placed third in the Gq Uk ranking for men dressed with class.

His product; a true case of excellence, combined with his entrepreneurial methods, have enabled Cu- cinelli to achieve incredible goals even in the most difficult period of crisis for the Italian economy, with a further 9% profit growth in 2019.

A modern-day hero whose interests extend far beyond business; his Brunello Cucinelli and Federica Cucinelli Foundation are constantly engaged in the restoration of the three most symbolic monuments of Norcia: The Civic Tower, the Theatre and the Museum of Castellina. 

“There is a need to have more courage to give people a signal of hope” said the entrepreneur, always working with the best interests of others at heart because, paraphras- ing a quote from Kant, there is no beauty without moral good.

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The Best Streamlined Updates That Promise Duty-Chic

The news in tailoring? The wear-anywhere blazer is a man’s ultimate utility rival. Sometimes the best fashion solutions are staring you in the face.

Extending a smart wardrobe while blending it with breezier updates becomes synonymous of relaxed sophistication.

As the new season is looming, necessary investments roll in. Subtle hints of colour seamlessly blend with the daily winsomeness you already own: And trust us, it’s worth exploring.

The appeal of minimalist dressing has yet to wane and, varying on one’s style proclivity, clean-cut tailoring twists have flown in plethora this season – see Bottega Veneta, Prada, Jil Sander and Marni for further evidence.

Give duty-lead styles a try: pair elegance and relaxed practicality with a cool approach, and you’ll gain everyday (and night) advantage.

Shop Man in Town’s edit of the best streamlined updates to uplift your Spring wardrobe now and forever. 

BOTTEGA VENETA

DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET IN CASHMERE FLANNEL, £2,795, AT BOTTEGAVENETA.COM

MARNI

PRESSED TROPICAL WOOL SHIRT, £400, AT FARFETCH.COM

MARNI

LOOSE-FIT TROUSERS, £360, AT FARFETCH.COM

JIL SANDER

SINGLE-BREASTED LONG OVERCOAT, £360, AT FARFETCH.COM

PRADA

NYLON GABARDINE SHIRT WITH EPAULETTES, £930, AT PRADA.COM

WEEKDAY 

LEIF ZIP POLO, £35, AT WEEKDAY.COM

FENDI

CARGO POCKET BLAZER, £1,290, AT FARFETCH.COM

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Women’s Day: beauty ideas for her

What better occasion than March 8, Women’s Day, to give one of the latest beauty offerings of the moment? Take a look at our gallery: hair products, skincare and the latest generation hair dryers. With these selection vetted by our beauty editors you can’t go wrong!

Davines Alchemic 

Effective on blond or previously lightened hair, the Alchemic creative conditioners can be used alone or mixed with the other conditioners of the Alchemic line to create unusual colored effects on the hair. Another possibility is to mix them with neutral conditioners for a more diluted color.

Davines

La Biosthétique

Gentle cleanser with the color protection complex for bleached, colored and natural blond hair with cold highlights. This sulfate-free shampoo with its anti-yellow formula is specially created for cold blonde shades and bleached hair.

Shiseido White Lucent Illuminating Micro-Spot Serum

An anti-spot illuminating serum that acts on the Outer and Inner Melanin Zone, the two areas identified by the Japanese brand as those with the highest concentration of melanin, to quickly minimize the visibility of brown spots, dull appearance and uneven skin tone.

Shisedio

La Mer The Eye Concentrate

A more effective and concentrated formula that transforms and protects the delicate area around the eyes. Advanced and concentrated treatment that reduces the appearance of dark circles, smoothes and reduces lines and wrinkles and helps prevent the appearance of future visible damage.

Too Faced Hangover Pillow Cream

Moisturizing cream that rehydrates the skin thanks to the Dream Complex™ formula, a combination of minerals, coconut water, seaweed, mango seed butter, avocado oil, Vitamin B and other nourishing ingredients.

Too Faced

Clarins Lip Comfort Oil Intense

8 ultra-pigmented mirror-effect shades: a formula-treatment enriched with organic American oxy-coconut oil, with moisturizing power, which diffuses the light for a unique brilliance.

Clarins

Maria Galland Paris Poudre Bronzing Sublimator

Beauty tanning powder that produces a natural tan, giving instant brightness and active hydration thanks to the encapsulated hyaluronic acid. For a diffuse complexion to be applied on the face and décolleté.

Pixy collagen Lip Gloss

The first lip gloss based on Acacia Collagen, peptides and Vitamin E, volumizes and moisturizes the lips leaving them soft and silky with a slightly glossed finish.

Pixy

Ferragamo Signorina In Fiore

The fragrance pays homage to the romantic and joyful soul of young women. At the dawn of a splendid spring, each young lady welcomes the flower season, revealing her most romantic side. The fruity and floral bouquet leaves behind a trail of soft white and creamy sandalwood musk.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Ghd Helios

Its powerful but highly concentrated air flow travels at 120 km/h to drastically speed up the styling routine. The shaped spout facilitates the concentrated distribution of temperature and air flow, offering precise control for truly professional brushing.

GHD

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Editorial: a good boy

Ph : Davide Carson @davidecarson

Stylist: Thibaud Romain @thibaud.romain

MakeUp-Hair : Eloise Bourges @eloisebourges_

Casting: Giulia Masini @giuliamasinimortani

Model: Tristan Zanchi @Metropolitan_mmanagement @tristanzanchi

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Larusmiani: a handmade Story born in the heart of Milan

The oldest sartorial brand in via Montenapoleone, now led by the third generation, has positioned itself as one point of reference for Made in Italy craftsmanship.

A journey started in 1922…with Guglielmo Miani Senior, a tailor specialized in hand-sewn coveralls and raincoats – waterproof like the wings of a seagull; Larus in Latin. It seemed it was destiny that this adventure was going to take flight.

From the very first model, a precise target was being identified, defined by gentleman adopting a continuous evolution of style through an appreciation of contemporary influences.

Boutiques arrived significantly quickly, and from 1939 until the 1960s, four spaces were opened between Via Montenapoleone, Via Manzoni, Galleria and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. They were strategic points from which the milestone of the Milanese Fashion District will have come to life.

Meanwhile, success was visible in the entertainment world: the founder had become friend and outfitter of celebrities such as Buster Keaton, Totò and Charlie Chaplin, while in 1970 he was awarded as the largest importer of the English textile industry.

Three years later his son Riccardo became CEO, starting a strong investment in the textile division with handmade collections entirely made in Italy; at the end of the 80’s the headquarter near the store was inaugurated, while the brand was beginning to position itself as one of the key suppliers of high-quality fabrics for fashion designers from all around the globe. Nowadays, 2 million meters per year are sold in natural fibers such as cashmere, vicuna, linen, cotton and silk, produced between Como, Varese and Biella.

Clothes and accessories are created in the Tailor shop in Tuscany by a special team of artisans.
In 2006 the focus was turned towards Guglielmo Miani, representative of the third generation of the family, who assumed the position of managing director, to then be elected president five years later.

Passion and determination alongside a textile and haute couture know-how ingrained in his family’s DNA have insured his reign as number one in the company sine 2010.

Furthermore, Miani is president of the Montenapoleone District (the fashion district of Milan), which brings together 150 international luxury brands, and he is also a member of the Confcommercio Council, a representative body of more than 700 thousand businesses engaged in trade and tourism in Italy.

With the generational leap, new business objectives that focus on the clothing offer have emerged. The sophisticated approach directed towards true luxury is symbolized by the seagull, embroidered inside jackets and coats as an emblem of accolade and excellence.

In 2015, heritage was strengthened by the historic Aldo Lorenzi cutlery being integrated into the spaces of the Larusmiani boutique on via Montenapoleone 7. Inaugurated in 1954 and later renovated by the London architect David Collins, it is the oldest pret-à-porter shop on Via Montenapoleone.

An area of 700 square meters spread over three floors immerses you in a universe of excellence, made up of works of art, vintage watches and old books where Larusmiani garments can be touched by hand. Expanding outside the boundaries of the company’s birthplace was an inevitable and natural step.

The summer boutique in Porto Cervo, Sardinia, opened four years ago, followed by a store in the Swiss Alps in Saint Moritz. The second step towards a more international presence saw partnerships in the luxury hotel sector for the opening of stores on the Caribbean island of Saint Barth and in Paris in 2019, the year in which the maison also landed a spot in the Métropole shopping center of Monte-Carlo.

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Sileno Cheloni

The artist of fragrance

He is the internationally renowned Tuscan master perfumer: Sileno Cheloni, known for his “nose of truth”.

He is the creator of “tailor-made” perfumes famously desired by the likes of Oscar-winner Hellen Mirren and the politician Matteo Renzi, and praised for his collaborations with Gucci, Lamborghini, Richard Ginori amongst a collection of soaps and cosmetics.

Sileno Cheloni makes perfume an art that he believes “elevates to the divine”, which puts us in touch with our spiritual side. The perfume gives man an ancient magnetism, a position of power, because he is able to attract and seduce. Perfume can also induce a wake of memories, gestures, fantasies, or can be a criterion of elective affinities.

For the first time at Pitti Uomo, Sileno Cheloni presents “Il Profumoir”, a real perfumery bespoke experience, from 7th to 10th January on the lower floor of the central pavilion. For the occasion there will be the opening of the new OL’Factory in Via San Niccolo ‘95R, a space where everything is special, a living room where everything is magnificent, and rooms that are full of a thousand rarities.

Atmospheric essences will circulate the air in a place so well-conceived that it will feel as if it is under a spell. Because perfume can define one’s identity, even before the dress, it has the ability to tell a story, to express amiability, refinement, rarity, kindness, energy, seduction and pride.

Precise qualities can be materialized through essences that on this night be a gift to audiences who understand the importance of personalised perfumes over the commercialised scents chosen and shared by millions of other people. Sileno Cheloni opens his magical world to us in this exclusive interview.

In which part of the world is research more interesting?

The east, where the path of incense, and therefore of perfumes, begins.

What are the secrets of the trade?

Passion and creativity, then a little training, but nothing too obsessive. I did my training in the best places possible: when traveling around the East and in France.

Why did you choose Florence?

Because if the East is the origin of perfumes, Florence has been the cradle of it for a long time.

What does perfume represent for you?
Based on which characteristic of the person do you combine a perfume?

A mood to be achieved. The perfume is a characteristic of the soul, so very deep and not perceivable at a first glance, it must be discovered over time.

Where do you wear perfume to make it more persistent?

Where the pulsations of our blood are felt.

Why did you choose to take up this job?

I didn’t choose, I jumped on it! My job is pure energy.

What is PERFUME absolutely? What you might have wanted to create.

The incense that the Three Wise Men brought as a gift to Jesus Christ.

Is there a living character you would like to create a perfume for? And a historic one?

Claudio Baglioni wrote the song of the century, I would like to make the perfume that the protagonist wore on those clear summer evenings. I wanted to do it for the lawyer Gianni Agnelli, I was a fan of his.

How important is it to have a “tailor-made” perfume and why?

The important thing is to be aware that perfume is our invisible dress. The nose is the organ with which we make the most unquestionable decisions: yes or no! In many professional fields, in love, in the choice of a partner or a collaborator. You should then get the importance of having one made to measure.

The smell that conveys happiness and one that instead reminds you of grey moments.

Each perfume makes me happy, just because I can smell it. For me, grey moments are the cold moments that keep me away from the truth.

How persistent is a perfume in memory?

A perfume is forever, but the magic lies in the fact that we don’t know. Until the day we smell it again, the moments are confused within the years.

How important is packaging?

As fundamental as a tunic for a monk.

The notes of Queen Elizabeth and those of Marilyn Manson.

Violetta and Carnation.

What is your perfume?

An absolute Rose.

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Interview to Antonino Laspina, Italian Trade Commissioner

Italy is back in fashion in the USA. The new overseas market trends, which highlight bigger attention to quality and sustainability, have opened the games also for small and medium companies of Made in Italy. We met Antonino Laspina, executive director of the Italian Trade Agency in the American market. During his career, Laspina worked with universities, also in China, training centers, Italian and international magazines about topics linked to international trade and economy. He became a member of Young Leaders’ Group (council Italy-USA) in 1988 until the current assignment as an executive director of ITA started the last November.  

How American markets are changing in relation to Made in Italy? 

The American market, like other important markets in the world, changes a lot depending on the demographic composition and new subjects who intervene in the expense destined to the purchase of goods, in this case, quality goods, Made in Italy. In front of us, there is a scenario with a strong presence of subjects we can define as Millennials, who relate with Made in Italy trying to appreciate some emerging aspects but we also have some clients who are very consolidated and attached to this type of products. At the same time, there are also new trends related to the possibility that consumers belonging to quite high ranks can be interested in Made in Italy, even more than past years also for the effect of the growth of his perception on the American market.  

What is the perception of the Italian product in the USA?

The perception of the Italian product in the USA remains quite positive. I’d say that in some fields the Italian product doesn’t have rivals because it constitutes a product in a class of its own. However, we have to remember that some trends can approach products to other countries at the same level of standard of perception of Made in Italy product. For us, it’s very important to try to keep this leadership through a very strong promotional activity that on the one hand has to try to consolidate consumers in the areas we are already strong, like the coasts, above all New York, New Jersey, and California but on the other hand, we have to do promotion activities in the areas which already enjoy economic growth, like Texas.

Which are the assets at which Italian companies should aim?

To make their way and strengthen their position, Italian companies have to aim at assets and values which in the last 20 years allowed them to create the positions of leadership they got. There is the need to be known as companies that incorporate values like quality, exclusivity and the utilization of raw materials. Both regarding products related to the fashion system and the design system. Our companies need to insist on the fact that Italy is unique compared to its competitors because in our area the creative phase, the creative industry, and the manufacturing field coexist. Somehow, we constitute a unicum and we have to aim at it because in this mechanism it is possible to create a requalification of the Italian product in terms of high quality with components of craftmanship that are unique in our system. Every element starts being always more important for some bands of American consumers. Even more than in past years.  

How your plan and strategy of the relaunch of Made in Italy is articulated?

According to the results of past years, a plan and a strategy of the relaunch of Made in Italy have been invented. They aim at an increased value of resources destined for promotional activities. This strategy aims on the one hand on retaining and stabilizing the consumer we have in some areas but on the other hand on conquering other consumers above all in the areas where the economic dynamics have allowed having, like in some capitals, pro capita incomes which are superior to 60,000/70,000 dollars and show a delay compared to the perception of the Italian product. We have to work hard to bring the product to the territory. Clearly, an important tool is the activity of collaboration with the large retailers, both international distribution and the inter-state one. So we will invest a lot in invitations on the distribution networks, we will develop a bigger presence on the most important Italian trade fairs and we will also use promotional tools which are proper and autonomous activities realized by ICE collaborating with other partners. Moreover, it is very important to start an action plan which includes a bigger area to make us more popular. 

There is also a space regarding digital activities. In fact, we have improved an agreement with Amazon and we are studying other ways of collaborations. The main idea is that this market, like other markets in Europe and Asia, needs utilization of both online and offline channels. Obviously, a big effort to recover the interest of an increasing number of Italian companies for this market will be done. However, we noticed that on the Italian side there is the need to upgrade about the American market and for this reason, we have to send to Italian companies a message which allow them to understand that the American market has strict rules regarding the regulations on the composition of products and materials but also regarding the custom aspects. However, this difficulty doesn’t mean impossibility and so we can think about opening new perspectives for the Italian companies. Quality starts making its way on the market and for this reason for this type of company could be a chance to recover positions at a global level.

Which are the Italian companies which have been supported? The first feedbacks? 

The first feedbacks were quite positives. In fact, the time we had available for this new strategy was quite short but generally, we create strategies on undeniable successes. For example, we have a very consolidate presence on the fashion system and a qualified presence of quality producers. The aim is to create new trends, new creative and manufacturing subjects on the market because we have to take the opportunity that this market shows a big sensibility towards new themes, such as sustainability, green and the respect for nature: all issues which our companies have already experienced. Moreover, these themes have already reported important positive results in other markets. We feel that the most important aspect is to be known as carriers of these new values which are making their way on the American market. For our companies, during the last years, treatments that respected the environment regarding the leathers, the fibers, above all the natural ones or some treatments of products that are necessary to create the manufacturing process in the textile and clothing field were a bet. Today, probably, we also show in terms of research and development a more sophisticated and also more in line production with these expectations. We are very hopeful about the fact that this type of positive answer will be able to improve during the next years.

A first evaluation after the collaboration with Project?

Already with this event, we can say that we were able to interpret these trends I have mentioned before. Our companies involved in this Project were already an interesting number. For the future side, we think that we will aim to the communication aspects of our creative and manufacturing system. We have to be able to communicate these values that sometimes are peculiar o exclusive of our Italian system. In order to do it, we need to use different platforms. The main idea is to use consolidate platforms regarding the expositive system, but we don’t have to exclude the fact that we can also add other presences of new conception with the Italian companies and the structures which represent the interest of companies. 

There is much talk about sustainability, how is it transposed by the American market? 

Sustainability is a fact that accompanies an increasing sensibility not only on the American market but also on the other markets in relation to the issues of the treatment of products in the manufacturing phase, but also phases regarding the treatment of raw materials and also how to grow the plants from which come vegetal fibers or how to treat plants which come from the animal world. Sustainability is the keyword because on the American market this sensibility to nature and to processes that are not too intrusive or disruptive is making its way at the same level of what is happening in the most sophisticated markets. Here the answer to the Italian system, in my opinion, is live up to expectations because, as I have already highlighted, in our system of treatment of leather a series of processes that limit the use of toxic substances have been introduced. We applied recovery technologies and for this reason, we are producers of raw materials and semi-finished products which can be a guarantee in terms of sustainability. We also have companies that treat natural fibers like cotton, but we have already controlled the farming phase. Moreover, we have companies that already during the selection of the natural fibers, like for example the wool coming from different animals, have a great attention and care for the selective processes and then they transfer these fibers in the manufacturing processes, where coloring substances or any other substance has to be compatible with the system of nature.  We are obliged to do it because our companies are placed in a countryside context and the Italian system live and coexist with masterpieces of art and architecture. We have a campaign which essentially has great protection because from there other sources of income such as agriculture and tourism come. It’s a system that even before sustainability was important in the American market, had to make this choice for a natural cause, for its own internal forces, because the intervention of nature above all in Italy has to be very light because it has to safeguard also the other fields of the Italian economy. So, we are certainly a productive system able to satisfy these aspects of sustainability, green and these legitimate expectations in consumers. If the system of Made in Italy is improving more and more also in contexts not always positive from the economic point of view, it is because it was able to interpret and give appropriate responses to these expectations.

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Men’s hair care: the news for the winter

Treatments to experiment in the salon or simple allies for the beauty routine of our hair to be used at home. These are the latest news for the winter to try immediately!

BULLFROG

Oliocento is the protagonist of one of the services carried out in the brand new Grooming Lounge of Womo, the spectacular shop in Piazza Alvar Aalto, in Milan, where the Bullfrog barbershop is also present. It is the first product of the brand made of 100% natural ingredients: with the antioxidant, soothing, astringent and moisturizing properties of hemp. Its ideal formula for taking care of beard and hair and facial skin.

TIGI COPYRIGHT SCALP SHAMPOO 

The perfect anti-pollution ally for sensitive skin. It prevents dryness and makes the hair more manageable and protects it from external agents such as pollution. Rich in Tea Tree Oil, it helps the skin to maintain its hydration and to fight dehydration.

DEPOT NO. 312 CHARCOAL PASTE

Charcoal paste with strong fixing for easy application styling thanks to its creamy and malleable consistency. It gives texture, body and lasting fixation. The strong fixative and texturizing effect of this paste is the result of a calibrated mix of highly performing lmogenic ingredients, which coat the stem ensuring the highest performance.

GHD HELIOS

The new Ghd Helios ™ hairdryer features a light and long-lasting brushless motor and is designed for speed, creating a powerful but highly concentrated airflow that travels at 120 km / h to drastically speed up the styling routine. The shaped spout facilitates the concentrated distribution of temperature and airflow, offering precise control for truly professional styling.

LABEL.M

Four “shot” salon treatments rich in a specific active ingredient that transforms the condition of hair and skin in 5 minutes, offering immediately visible results. Thanks to the innovative molecular structure of the formulation, the active ingredients penetrate deeply into the hair fiber, providing excellent performance.

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Andreas Geisen, between social and dance

The young man and dancer Andrea Geisen represents a perfect balance between urban masculinity and discreet charm. He’s natural, authentic, takes care of himself and cultivates elegance without any effort. First of all, he’s a sportsman and in fact he discovered his passion for dance when he was little, and he brought it forward with hard work and sacrifice. However, today, there’s not only dance in his life, but he also works in the world of fashion and as lifestyle influencer on social media, a job which is very exciting for him. 

How and when did you discover your passion for dancing? 

When I began to dance I was really young, I was only 9. The idea was of my mother and I suddenly liked it because I was the only boy surrounded by girls. When I turned 11, I got hurt and I wasn’t able to dance anymore. For 2 months I felt like I was missing something. And it was in that moment that I understood that ballet was my passion and it would have guided my life. 

Tell me something about your studies and your personal background

I attended the Opera Ballet School in Paris and the Conservatoire Supérior in Paris. Later, I went to the National Ballet in Poland for a season and then to Germany. I spent four years of my life splitting myself between Paris and The Opera in Bordeaux.

Are there some people who inspired you both from the professional and personal point of view? 

There are a lot of people who inspired me. For example, Neil Patrick Harris, Hugh Jackman, Rudolf Noureev and Baryshnikov. Also films and stories of real life and people who changed the world unexpectedly have inspired me. 

What are your latest and significant operas as a dancer? 

Definitely Notre Dame de Paris of Roland Petit, first because it is a masterpiece of the 20th century and then for what happened in Paris last year. Seizing this opportunity was really important to me. It is a brilliant tribute to Notre Dame. 

Tell me about your modelling career and about your last experience

Being a model is a bit difficult because my body doesn’t correspond to the rules of fashion. Boys have to be very tall to do it. 
My last important job was dancing at the opening of Dior S/S show in Shanghai during the fashion week and it was just fantastic to me. However, I suppose that all the campaigns I’ll be working on as a model will be linked to ballet. 

You are also a content creator who talks about travels and lifestyle, when and why did you start this initiative?

I started this initiative 3 years ago, at the end of 2016, and I find it very interesting. It’s a new way to be connected with a brand without the intermediation of an agency. What I like the most is that I can do my campaign with my rules. I love that freedom and I love letting my creativity work itself. 

What does your typical day look like?

I usually get up at 9, I wake up my body (workout and abs), ballet from 11.30 to 13.30, stretching until 14.30 and then lunch. Later, rehearsals, Physio, or meetings with agencies or brands.

What are your favourite places in Paris? 

I love the 2nd district, there’s always something to discover and the street there is beautiful. Above all, around Montorgueil, is like a small village. 

What are the places you like the most to recharge/rehabilitate yourself? 

I don’t have a favourite place because every week I discover new cafés and new hotels. I suppose they are where I feel best: at home and in the ballet studios. 

When you travel, which are the essential elements for you?

When I travel, the essential elements for me are my phone, my headphones, a bottle of lemon water, comfortable clothes, the products for my skincare and a swimsuit. 

The last book you read or the music you love

The last book I read was Notre Dame de Paris of Victor Hugo. 

In these days I’m listening to a French artist, Angel and to the playlist Jazz Romance on Spotify. Moreover, I’m listening to the Lion King because I’ll be auditioning for the Broadway show. 

Your next projects and secret wishes

I have this enormous audition for the Lion King show in Broadway in February in addition to the other auditions for the ballet companies. I also would like to try a bit of acting. Let’s see what 2020 has to offer! 

Photo credits:

Anthony Pomes @apomesphoto
Marion Colombani @studiomarioncolombani
Elle Urakova @by_elleurakova

Andreas Geisen @andrew.gsn

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Manintown talents: Francesco Ferdinandi

By Davide Musto – 23 Gennaio 2020

By Davide Musto – 23 Gennaio

Photo: Davide Musto

Stylist: Stefano Guerrini

Grooming: Domenico Mastrodicasa

Photographer assistant’s: Federico Taddonio e Dario Tucci

Stylist’s assistants: Elisa Maria Montanaro e Greta Tedeschi

Talent: Francesco Ferdinandi @Alex Pacifico

Special thanks to Palazzo Brancaccio – Spazio Field

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Venice – chronicles from a submerged city

Chronicles from a submerged city was born in favor of the Fallani Venice screen printing to support the restarting of activities following the high water that hit the lagoon city on 12 November 2019 reaching 187 cm.

After this exceptional event, the desire is to look ahead and start again, resuming daily activities, this spirit gave life to this project thanks to a series of friends close to the screen printing workshops who involved a series of illustrators, new and old acquaintances by Fallani, asking them to create a graphic linked to the city of Venice.

Bruno Bozzetto, Ale Giorgini, Riccardo Guasco, Franco Matticchio, Andy Rementer, Jacopo Rosati, Guido Scarabottolo, Lucio Schiavon and Olimpia Zagnoli have decided to donate their own work to screen printing so as to allow Gianpaolo, deus ex-machina of this reality, to resume printing with new editions and replace damaged materials.

The illustrations are available in pre-order on https://fallanivenezia.bigcartel.com/, in a limited edition of 50 numbered and signed by the artists, which can be purchased individually or in the folder.

If you are in Venice you can also go to discover the artisanal silk-screen laboratory, active since 1968, and discover the printing process of the project. Nearby you can take advantage of it for a stop in one of these places: 

Alla vedova 
Ramo Ca’ d’Oro, 3912 

Bar/Hostel Combo 
Campo dei Gesuiti, 4878 

Rosa Salva pastry shop 
Calle Giazzo, 6779 

Osteria Del Ricio Peoco 
Strada Nova, Campo S.S. Apostles, 4462

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Ermenegildo Zegna XXX – Don’t worry guys, Eco-tailoring is coming back!

The vision of men’s fashion through the eye of women with attention to the environment that surrounds us outlines the perfect mindset of the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX autumn/winter 2020/2021 collection designed by Alessandro Sartori.

If the goal is to make the new generations wear tailoring, the first step is certainly to integrate it with elements similar to their culture, through the experimentation of technical fabrics mixed with recycled wool and cashmere capable of creating new modern and cutting-edge tailoring silhouettes.

A cube suspended in the center of a former Milanese foundry created by the New York artist Anne Patterson with ribbons made from Zegna fabric scraps, recreates an illusion of color and movement to accentuate Alessandro Sartori’s philosophy on the real use of recycled materials, this which could be thrown away, therefore, becomes pure art.

From a dreamlike scenario, the young Zegna men appear with a determined step, reinventing tailoring with the return of the Vest used even only with a shirt, overshirt with zip, a cross-body bag inspired by the world of contemporary photography and the collaboration with Leica, historian German brand manufacturer of cameras and optics, gives life to bags, accessories and shoulder straps for the camera, the beginning of a project between the two brands that will lead to the development of a photographic exhibition entitled “modern masculinity”.

At the center of this collection, we find Alessandro Sartori’s experimentation in multiple forms from the special selection of hand-woven materials developed with the community of San Patrignano to the play of metamorphosis of textures and shapes enhanced by a palette of neutral shades.

The look at the young cultures close to him and their attention to eco-friendly makes the iconic Biella brand a mix of simplicity and functionality that reminds us that fashion has to respect our planet.

Text by Francesco Vavallo – @francesco_vavallo

Film by Simone Santus – @simomlcrw

Powered by LOOK MI – @ lookmi.it

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Wish list: a new type of luxury

A new type of luxury. An almost emotional luxury, capable of representing not so much a social status, but our belonging to a tribe of style increasingly similar to an extended family, where everyone is registered in the same fanzine. And this word is not used by chance because these new objects of desire are all a bit retro’, old school, children of a nostalgia for a period that in reality part of the public to which they are addressed has not lived. As well as the excesses of color, above all the use of purple for the men’s wardrobe, refer to an energizing and revitalizing chromotherapy. Fashion thus acquires reassuring and thaumaturgical aspects, which open up to new paths. Starting from the past. 

By Ermenegildo Zegna the ‘must-have’ dress in technical satin fabric #UseTheExisting with multicolored spots on a light obsidian purple base, consisting of a soft-shoulders jacket with iconic couture lapels and slim-fit pants without darts. Oversized knit T-shirt with a wide neckline. Geometric-model glasses with light frame in metal and acetate. Ankle boots with zip in Warsaw gray leather.

Michael J. Fox and Rob Lowe portrayed by Richard Berstein in pure Warhol style for the covers of Interview. And the sweatshirt and the cotton tank top by Coach 1941, become supercool and a lot desirable tributes to the Eighties!

It reminds us of certain seaside vacations in the 1970s, between Ibiza and Saint Tropez, the sandal with sand-colored suede bands by Santoni. So chic!

From the super-loved Gucci designed by Alessandro Michele a document holder in red leather with Horsebit detail. And you can go to work with style and an electrifying spirit

Bally‘s leather bag with hiking style details, not necessarily only for weekends in the high mountains.

The Marni shopping bag from the s/s 2020 Men’s collection is in PVC with leather handles. The detail of the drawings of plastic bottles recalls an eco-friendly spirit that is totally essential today.

They make us think of american colleges, a touch of “Grease” style, a bit of “The rules of attraction” by Bret Easton Ellis, where the main protagonists are the cheerleaders and the rugby players. Here are the Sneakers in cotton gabardine by Prada: new objects of desire.

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Tulemar, a jungle luxury adventure in Costa Rica

Escaping to Paradise it is a natural instinct for those living in the Northern hemisphere, especially during those dreadful long cold winters.  

Natural beauty, lush forests, palms for miles and waves for the brave: this is what Costa Rica has to offer.
This winter, right at the end of the rainy season, we took a trip from our hub in New York to visit the very acclaimed Trip Advisor best hotel in 2019: Tulemar in Quepos, on the Pacific side. 

Arriving in San Jose’ at the airport, where alas not much can be found, we were greeted by our private Tulemar driver, sent from the resort to rescue us from the noise of the Capital and take us to the area of Manuel Antonio, home of Tulemar and also of one of the most amazing natural parks and ecosystems.
Within 3 hours drive through the only “national carrettera” (in Costa Rica there is one national highway that runs throughout the country connecting relevant cities and towns like a major aorta), we reached the lusher and tourist-friendly Quepos region.

The green surrounding, the infinite beaches and lush rainforests are definitely some of the reasons why this area needs to be on your bucket list.

But this is not just it, as you may not yet know that Tulemar, on top of being gracefully built within the ecosystem with his private jungle bungalows and villas, it is also home of something fantastic: the Sloth Institute since 2015.

TSI is a non-profit organization with the mission to enhance the well-being and conservation of wild and captive sloths through research and education. They are also dedicated to collaborating with other sloth rehabilitation and release programs.
Tulemar hosts some of the species in its lush and peaceful protected environment and offers educational walks to guests and other visitors upon reservation. We took the tour and it was quite fascinating. The rescued sloths, roam freely (but not fast so to speak) in fact around the property, and some were visible even as a guest at one of the Café’ within the property, on our first night there, almost as magically they knew we had come all the way from another country to write about them.

The area of Quepos/Manuel Antonio is actually a real treat for nature lovers. The park of Manuel Antonio, which is a few km from the resort also offers magnificent VIP tours for those who care about knowing more about the ecosystems as well as the behavior of the animals who reside in the park. We took a 2 hours walk through the park with a specialized guide and it was worth it all the way!

Tulemar is one of a kind resort with 4 pools, a private beach, private villas as well as cozy bungalows, all immersed in a Jurassic Park like environment for the nature lovers with a taste for luxurious pampering and adventure.

The service at Tulemar falls within the rhythm of the place and the Pura Vida style, everything is as it should be when on vacation, by a friendly staff smoothly coordinating shuttle rides to the beach and back or delivery for room service in those lazy mornings where watching palm trees for capuchin monkeys sipping delicious coffee by a private pool is on the top to dos.

We highly recommend organizing a tour of the property with your own personal concierge as assigned to each guest upon arrival (yes a personal concierge for your stay, isn’t that marvelous!), and that you spend your mornings either at the private lovely bay that is one of the gems on-site or at one of the pools when you are not exploring the park of Manuel Antonio. For the more adventurous types, there is a little hiking trail on both sides of the bay that leads down to the wonderfully secluded beach.

Costa Rica tips/should know:

  • Do take it slow, time is perceived quite differently than our busy capitals from which you may travel from
  • US Dollars are also accepted at store and restaurants, ask first
  • Do bring an umbrella if you are traveling during or around rainy season ( May to Mid November)
  • “Pura Vida” means  Thank you, hello, how are you, you are welcome… 
  • Do steer clear of rivers and estuaries, as in Costa Rica crocs like to hang out there
  • Rent a car and explore whenever possible.

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Highlights Milano Moda Uomo

Not only fashion shows in this Milano Moda Uomo autumn winter 2020 2021, but also presentations scattered in the coolest locations of the city. Waiting for spring, we went to find out in preview what the key pieces will be for next year.

Zegna 

In a geometric forest of threads, the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Winter 2020 collection materializes. A redefinition of tailoring outlines the spirit of the season, while tailoring know-how is explored in new hybrid directions. The silhouette is clean and layered; the layering of the garments is accentuated; ergonomic details such as patch pockets add a functional note. The three-button suits with slightly squared one and a half breasted jackets and tight trousers at the bottom are worn with voluminous blousons; the overshirts with zip and deep neckline replace the traditional shirts. The tailored vest makes its comeback as a passe-partout, with or without the suit. The constant evolution process defines the new forms we saw on the catwalk.

Kiton 

The Kiton Men’s Fall / Winter 2020/21 collection enhances the suit as an icon of elegance and sobriety, offering a new stylistic interpretation. Deconstructed and modeled to be worn by men on different occasions, the dress is combined with a formal turtleneck or a denim shirt, broken together with perfect-fit jeans, which has become the iconic garment of the latest collections, cotton trousers and sneakers. Elegance is relaxed, also thanks to the new textures and innovative fibers that Kiton cleverly develops in his Biella wool mill.

Dondup

Masculine and feminine. Tradition and innovation. These are the cornerstones on which the creative studio Dondup worked to design the new winter collections. An analysis that finds its distinctive code in the relationship between man and woman, between craftsmanship and research. The meeting area is the tailoring world: the suggestions at Savile Row, with traditional fabrics, marry the mastery of the “Made in Italy” production.

Brett Johnson

Brett Johnson with the new collection wanted to create a wardrobe designed for every modern cosmopolitan traveler. A celebration of masculine elegance through contemporary aesthetic codes designed to transit, with the same aplomb chic, for New York like Milan or Monte Carlo. Craftsmanship is an essential element for the entire collection, as well as the excellence of the material. The garments are made using materials such as vicuña (both knitted and textured), 14-micron cashmere, a technical effect fabric made of pure silk, Sea Island cotton, suede cashmere and crocodile.

Giuseppe Zanotti 

For the Autumn/Winter 2020 season, Giuseppe Zanotti evolves and renews the very concept of elegance. His proposal is versatile, dynamic, with a wide scope and strong stylistic content. The formal day line makes its way between materials rich in textures and iconic details. English classicism marries the graphic dimension, giving life to a young and creative expression. Chelsea boots and moccasins dress the new thanks to the meeting with plexi, futuristic and unusual heels, or to the addition of elegant country buckles. The color choice is solid and material: greased crusts, soft leathers and prints are colored in red, plum, black, bottle green, dark brown.

Marcelo Burlon

Distortion is the watchword for autumn-winter 20/21. Deformed flowers – created by Mirko Borsche – folk motifs, allover liquefied pied-de-poule motifs create psychedelic effects on bomber jackets, jacquard sweaters, shirts, padded anoraks, sweatshirts and shorts. The way in which pockets and details are applied to the pieces is also distorted, while contrast stitching creates another level of distortion. The reflective duvets, the single-breasted jackets and the bomber jackets covered with Swarovski crystals are designed to shine and dazzle. The color palette is a fusion of stone, brown, musk, sesame, black illuminated by a dazzling blue and colored prints.

MSGM E CULT

A really cool partnership between CULT, a glam brand with a rock soul born in 1987, and MSGM, the first Made in Italy designer brand, designed by Massimo Giorgetti. The special collaboration was presented during the MSGM fashion show at the Calabiana Hub. Two brands that marry the same values: freedom of expression, independence, irreverence. The BOLT, the iconic steel-tipped amphibian of CULT that has made the history of footwear for rockers and beyond, has been revisited by MSGM in an unconventional key.

ICEBERG 

The location chosen by the ICEBERG Creative Director James Long for the Fall-Winter 2020 men’s collection show could not better represent this visionary party: “the Alcatraz”, a historic Milanese club that bears the name of the most famous prison in the world. The same multi-lingual patrol of ICEBERG breaks the rules and joins the party. The “overseers” with their reflective uniforms lose their austerity and join the ravers.

SPYDER 

Spyder invites you to face the challenges of everyday life with a bold and cheeky spirit. In the gym, on the field or in the city streets, he sides with all those who have a courageous heart, a clear mind and limitless tenacity. A dynamic and energetic vibe characterizes the Performance collection for the next cold season. The bold iconography of street art influences the graphic appeal of the collection, which at the same time guarantees excellent performance and the right dose of urban style.

HB KONG 

40 looks, one for each year from the founding of the brand to today, celebrate the launch of KB HONG. KB HONG’s debut collection is inspired by retro-futurism, the contemporary artistic current that draws inspiration from the way the future was imagined in the 1950s and 1960s. Its translation in the fashion field is transposed into a design characterized by the combination of retro and futuristic elements.

Le Tasca

Le Tasca con la collezione FW 20-21 prosegue la sua esplorazione nel mondo dell’abbigliamento, raccontandosi attraverso l’attitudine “utlitaristica” delle sue proposte. Un linguaggio formale e funzionale che traduce il respiro di chi viaggia ed esplora la città con “le mani libere”. Un total look che prende il posto dell’accessorio: le tasche piccole, grandi o grandissime possono contenere i nostri oggetti e Le Tasca diventa divisa del vestire contemporaneo.

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Moschino brings the irony of street couture to New York

Street meets couture It is in the sign of syncretism between high fashion and fabulous ghetto looks that Moschino by Jeremy Scott debuts on the catwalk in New York.

After the Cinecittà en plein of January 2019 in tribute to Fellini’s visionary cinema, the location is still one that is not easily forgotten: that genius of Scott, for the brand’s first time in the Big Apple, has chosen New York Brooklyn Transit Museum, where a few days ago, as in a subway car, both the women’s pre-collection and the irreverent proposals dedicated to him paraded, in full osmosis with the wardrobe for the Moschino girls.

Trompe l’oeil zippers and maxi bags in the shape of a 90s stereo but also many fanciful accessories accompany the co-and more iconoclastic outfits of the American designer that some define the reincarnation of the transgressive and exhilarating Franco Moschino.

Black culture is intertwined with the haughty and classy style of the young ladies of Park Avenue, played down in a succession of anti-sweat but very tailored styles.

The nail, another iconic element of Moschino’s iconography, acquires a new grit thanks to precious workings such as cobwebs of golden chains embroidered on the skin and showy metalwork very rock but also a bit Toy Boy because Jeremy Scott looks at the hard aesthetics of the leather bar where gay pros of the ‘clone generation’ gathered in the late 80s in the infamous clubs created by the butchers of the Meat Packing district.

Everything is magnified, exasperated, for a blaring mood that is never taken seriously in harmony with the weltanschauung of this irreverent brand that has given so much luster to the rise of Made in Italy.

Rap music and R’n’B, along with the deafening noises of New York subways, mark the rhythm of the lives of those who have chosen to live in the city that never sleeps.

While the vamp jewel fourreau give a new look to the bewitching outfits designed for Cher by Bob Mackie, Elton John’s costume designer before Gianni Versace, the body-conscious tailcoats from rebellious baronet and the bomber wink at Ray Petri’s Buffalo Style with lots of golden chains of order, including cargo pants, color block anoraks and comfortable full-color suits turned in feminine tones.

The stereo prints are reminiscent of a more analogical era, when, in the summer heat, New Yorkers could sit on the entrance steps and listen to the songs of past summers, as in Spike Lee’s films, in the Harlem of the 90s.

Cult details: the giant “Bic” style lighters suggest the shapes of the evening bags (large enough to contain not only a pack of cigarettes but an entire carton), while the tweed flirts with denim, the grisaille becomes sporty chic and workwear outfits become hyper glamorous to the delight of members of the Moschino Community.

It is the energy of Manhattan but also of the underground scene that brings together boys and girls ready to mix and have fun in the asphalt jungle with provocative irony and trash couture made artfully for épater les bourgeois. Next stop: Moschino street. Stay tuned.

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Around Pitti Uomo 97: 10 brands to remember

Each season Pitti Uomo brings over 1,200 exhibitors to Florence, which becomes the showcase and seismograph of men’s and global lifestyle trends. We have chosen 10 brands that have particularly impressed us for the impact of their events, planning and collection.

Karl Lagerfeld

For the second time, after edition of last June, the brand is present at the Fortezza da Basso with its new collection of rtw, accessories and a special project entitled “A tribute to Karl: the white shirt project ”, Edited by Carine Roitfeld.

These are various white shirts, rethought and reworked by historical friends of the Kaiser, such as Kate Moss, Cara Delevigne or Lewis Hamilton. The textured skins of trousers and jackets are splendid, which will be all the rage for next winter.

A tribute to Karl: the white shirt project

Herno

Herno presents its new “Globe” project, synonymous with sustainability and craftsmanship: the utmost importance for the origin of the raw materials, the development of new production techniques and respect for the environment.

In a green and very relaxing location, duvets, bomber jackets and biodegradable jackets are born, which decompose after 5 years if thrown into landfills, or those obtained with regenerated materials derived from waste material.

Herno Globe project

Borsalino

Borsalino’s challenge is to update an accessory such as the hat, considered retro and obsolete. It does it very well, offering the classic “Bogart” in a modern key or merging the world of fashion with the artistic world of the Renaissance or the English movement of “Arts and crafts”.

The result is a very interesting search for shapes and materials, in which the classic English Scottish blend with animal print velvet, paint and fake fur. Funny is the tribute to Raphael, five hundred years after his death.

Borsalino hat

Tagliatore

Refinement is one of Tagliatore’s trademarks: starting from a warm and spicy palette, which then turns to gray and black, the silhouette plays on the harmony between the oversized coats and the tightest jackets and pants.

Particular attention to the chamber jacket, treated and built as if it were a couture coat, with sophisticated details and enveloping shapes.

Tagliatore coat

Lardini

Lardini relaunches the formal and the classic with a special collaboration with the designer Yosuke Aizawa, founder of Mountaneering.

Wrapped in a Nordic and glacial atmosphere, the new fashion is the result of innovative contamination between practicality and innovation, between classicism and dynamism.

Lardini

Brioni

A Visconti atmosphere in Palazzo Gerini, one of the few seventeenth-eighteenth-century buildings located in Florence: thanks to Olivier Saillard, who was able to translate the celebrations of the 75th anniversary of the Roman brand into a real path in culture, between fashion and classic music.

The preciousness of the finest velvets, leathers and wools, declined in classic shapes and with a romantic flavor, designed by the Austrian Norbert Stumpfl, perfectly match the models-musicians who accompany us in the six rooms of the building, among the notes of Debussy, Satie and Monteverdi. A delicate, cultured and not rowdy masculine elegance concept, in total contrast with what we have seen elsewhere.

Brioni

K way

At the historic Stock Exchange, the apothesis of outerwear is staged: colorful, practical, fun, pop, technological. Starting from the historic slogan “Let it rain”, the brand celebrates its 55th year of activity by showing off a myriad of proposals for all needs, from basic (not surprisingly it is owned by the Basicnet group) to proposals rich in technical details.

K-way

Jil Sander

In the cloister of Santa Maria Novella, a new chapter is inaugurated by a stylistic couple of the Meier spouses, who studied and met in Florence. A bright and monastic atmosphere at the same time, where the simplicity of the lines, the amplitude of the volumes, the neutrality of the palette are the masters.

Everything is whispered, hinted at: the rigor of austere coats refined by subtle embroideries and applications, the most refined fabrics combined with the most natural ones, a royal eagle that rests on pins and necklaces.

Jil Sander

Telfar

The brand founded by Telfar Clemens speaks of melting between cultures, genres and styles: the Tuscan Renaissance, so well embodied by the splendid Palazzo Corsini. The female merges with the male, the 400 with the street culture of African Americans, the pirate style (so dear to Vivienne) with the biker look.

A somewhat confused and chaotic fashion, where however the beauty of the skin reigns, which is found in biker jackets and especially in tight and seductive pants.

Telfar

Random Identities

On the notes of a cover of “I’m every woman” by Whitney Houston, the fashion of the ex creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, a real and proper rtw conceived for the digital era, takes the stage. A fluid, radical fashion that annihilates the barriers between male and female, between ephebic physicists and curvy beauties, between youth and maturity.

Freedom and inclusion are the keywords of this lexicon, where men wear knee-length skirts, lace bras over English shirts, oversized sweaters put upside down. The catwalk is closed by Pilati himself, in a beautiful camel coat, white pants and riding boots. The constant provocation is tempered by the choice of clean lines, the dominant monochromatism and the sparse and industrial location of Stazione Leopolda.

Random Identities

By Alessandro Martinelli

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Antony Morato told by Lello Caldarelli

Let’s discover whit the Creative Director Raffaele Caldarelli, a total look brand that is growing internationally.

Tell us about your professional background before Antony Morato

I started working on women managing a structure that produced collections for other companies, this helped me a lot in understanding the needs of contemporary fashion and the innovations in terms of materials, combinations of fabrics and details of the finished product. When I founded Antony Morato in 2007, I felt the need to create an individual project: I transferred the knowledge acquired from the experience with the female market adapting it to the needs of contemporary male fashion by developing my personal vision of fashion.

How did you launch the brand and which philosophy best describes it?

Given my previous experiences, it would have been natural and logical to start with women’s clothing, but when I launched the brand, I realized by conducting a market analysis, that in men’s fashion what was missing was a concept that had been already rooted in women’s: the smart luxury. A ‘democratic fashion’ with a product rich in fashion contents, typical of the world of luxury. This is why I decided to take the opportunity that the market offered at the time by proposing a brand that could bring the most demanding male consumers closer to fashion. Which are the most iconic and recognizable garments of your brand More than a single garment, I would speak of an approach to the total look I like to propose in each collection and that well defines the brand’s identity and aesthetics. I refer to the concept of “Soft Tailoring” which consists in combining a pair of tailored trousers with a t-shirt or a pair of sneakers. In this context, the casual garment is the ingredient that “softens” the formality of a classic look, giving a contemporary touch to the final proposal.

What is the added value of being an Italian brand?

DNA and Italian heritage, seen as consolidated traditions and cultural roots in the fashion industry, influence each Antony Morato collection in terms of respect for an elegant and unique style and a specific taste on the wearability and workmanship of the garments. Naples, in particular, is also one of the most cosmopolitan cities and our international DNA, open to new trends, originates precisely from this cultural and social melting-pot.

How is the brand evolving internationally?

After 12 years of gradual growth we now want to strengthen the markets in which we are already present – such as Italy, Spain, the Netherlands, Germany, France, China and India – in order to increase and consolidate brand awareness and sales potential. A further goal for the next few years is to guarantee complete sustainability at any company level: we have already started with an ecological approach to industry 4.0 by creating a new logistics hub in Piacenza that is completely eco-sustainable and represents an avant-garde in the sector as it has a low environmental impact guaranteed by the production of energy through magnetism. A small preview on the next collection The fall winter 2020/2021 collection reinvents the metropolitan look thanks to a mix of innovation and reinterpretation of the brand’s DNA. Spacing between four fashion themes, each with a precise inspiration – from punk / grunge to sartorial sport in a college key – the collection does not renounce the brand’s heritage, with the Timeless line, which offers contemporary elegance, made of minimal and references to the retro world.

What can you tell us for 2020?

Our main goal is to shorten the distance between brand and consumer more and more. Precisely for this reason we thought of giving life to a new way of presenting our collections that is innovative and that represents a moment of encounter between stakeholders and the final consumer. On January 7, 2020 we will host an evening dedicated to the combination of tradition and modernity. At the Auditorium Santo Stefano al Ponte, we will unveil the new autumn collection in an unusual way: a videomapping representation in which the contemporary and underground mood, typical of the brand’s heritage, will be reinterpreted thanks to details and inspirations that refer to the tailoring tradition of the past. A new project that we hope will have continuity for the coming seasons.

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