Each season Pitti Uomo brings over 1,200 exhibitors to Florence, which becomes the showcase and seismograph of men’s and global lifestyle trends. We have chosen 10 brands that have particularly impressed us for the impact of their events, planning and collection.
Karl Lagerfeld
For the second time, after edition of last June, the brand is present at the Fortezza da Basso with its new collection of rtw, accessories and a special project entitled “A tribute to Karl: the white shirt project ”, Edited by Carine Roitfeld.
These are various white shirts, rethought and reworked by historical friends of the Kaiser, such as Kate Moss, Cara Delevigne or Lewis Hamilton. The textured skins of trousers and jackets are splendid, which will be all the rage for next winter.
Herno
Herno presents its new “Globe” project, synonymous with sustainability and craftsmanship: the utmost importance for the origin of the raw materials, the development of new production techniques and respect for the environment.
In a green and very relaxing location, duvets, bomber jackets and biodegradable jackets are born, which decompose after 5 years if thrown into landfills, or those obtained with regenerated materials derived from waste material.
Borsalino
Borsalino’s challenge is to update an accessory such as the hat, considered retro and obsolete. It does it very well, offering the classic “Bogart” in a modern key or merging the world of fashion with the artistic world of the Renaissance or the English movement of “Arts and crafts”.
The result is a very interesting search for shapes and materials, in which the classic English Scottish blend with animal print velvet, paint and fake fur. Funny is the tribute to Raphael, five hundred years after his death.
Tagliatore
Refinement is one of Tagliatore’s trademarks: starting from a warm and spicy palette, which then turns to gray and black, the silhouette plays on the harmony between the oversized coats and the tightest jackets and pants.
Particular attention to the chamber jacket, treated and built as if it were a couture coat, with sophisticated details and enveloping shapes.
Lardini
Lardini relaunches the formal and the classic with a special collaboration with the designer Yosuke Aizawa, founder of Mountaneering.
Wrapped in a Nordic and glacial atmosphere, the new fashion is the result of innovative contamination between practicality and innovation, between classicism and dynamism.
Brioni
A Visconti atmosphere in Palazzo Gerini, one of the few seventeenth-eighteenth-century buildings located in Florence: thanks to Olivier Saillard, who was able to translate the celebrations of the 75th anniversary of the Roman brand into a real path in culture, between fashion and classic music.
The preciousness of the finest velvets, leathers and wools, declined in classic shapes and with a romantic flavor, designed by the Austrian Norbert Stumpfl, perfectly match the models-musicians who accompany us in the six rooms of the building, among the notes of Debussy, Satie and Monteverdi. A delicate, cultured and not rowdy masculine elegance concept, in total contrast with what we have seen elsewhere.
K way
At the historic Stock Exchange, the apothesis of outerwear is staged: colorful, practical, fun, pop, technological. Starting from the historic slogan “Let it rain”, the brand celebrates its 55th year of activity by showing off a myriad of proposals for all needs, from basic (not surprisingly it is owned by the Basicnet group) to proposals rich in technical details.
Jil Sander
In the cloister of Santa Maria Novella, a new chapter is inaugurated by a stylistic couple of the Meier spouses, who studied and met in Florence. A bright and monastic atmosphere at the same time, where the simplicity of the lines, the amplitude of the volumes, the neutrality of the palette are the masters.
Everything is whispered, hinted at: the rigor of austere coats refined by subtle embroideries and applications, the most refined fabrics combined with the most natural ones, a royal eagle that rests on pins and necklaces.
Telfar
The brand founded by Telfar Clemens speaks of melting between cultures, genres and styles: the Tuscan Renaissance, so well embodied by the splendid Palazzo Corsini. The female merges with the male, the 400 with the street culture of African Americans, the pirate style (so dear to Vivienne) with the biker look.
A somewhat confused and chaotic fashion, where however the beauty of the skin reigns, which is found in biker jackets and especially in tight and seductive pants.
Random Identities
On the notes of a cover of “I’m every woman” by Whitney Houston, the fashion of the ex creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, a real and proper rtw conceived for the digital era, takes the stage. A fluid, radical fashion that annihilates the barriers between male and female, between ephebic physicists and curvy beauties, between youth and maturity.
Freedom and inclusion are the keywords of this lexicon, where men wear knee-length skirts, lace bras over English shirts, oversized sweaters put upside down. The catwalk is closed by Pilati himself, in a beautiful camel coat, white pants and riding boots. The constant provocation is tempered by the choice of clean lines, the dominant monochromatism and the sparse and industrial location of Stazione Leopolda.
By Alessandro Martinelli
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