PFW: BERLUTI

You may have noticed that the spirit of Berluti and the cult of the “patina” in particular is focused on what time can bring to life?
No sooner was Haider Ackermann appointed as Creative Director at Berluti than he was struck by the idea of fashion which could develop over time.
As he was working on this collection, he was permanently conscious of the way in which a well-made pair of trousers or a coat become more attractive as they develop a patina which makes them more desirable and precious to us. Haider’s mood board included words such as “Trash”, “Dark” and “Wood” and focused on the concept of a man waking at dawn after a wealth of nocturnal experiences. Certain paintings by Francis Bacon provided the inspiration for the unusual colour combinations which Haider had in mind. Blues and powder pink hues clashing with burgundy for example. Taking these basic concepts as his starting point, Haider Ackermann designed this collection as a list of key pieces: You will find a black leather aviator jacket with just a hint of red crocodile on the collar lapels, and a red lining. There is also a bomber jacket, made entirely out of fluffy nylon on the inside with a grey cashmere outer.There is a soft, smooth velvet tuxedo in royal blue which is suitable for everyday wear. A cashmere sweater with a large roll neck, made out of a single piece with just two seams, is like a second skin. There are lace-up boots in an emerald green which is almost black, but still green enough to make a real statement. There are exquisite yet casual bags. But first and foremost, we are inviting men and women alike to play a part in this show by imaging what exquisite patina these clothes would soon develop if you owned them.

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