The Italian fashion of the FW 2020-21 is more inspired than ever. It lets itself be carried away by new provocations and romantic celebrations of the dearest culture to us. It plays with nonsense and surreal scenarios marking the time and celebrating its myths. But it does not neglect the attention to “sustainability”, a process in which CNMI (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) has involved its Associates and operators representing the supply chain of the entire Italian fashion system.
Set in a forest of threads, the Ermenegildo Zegna collection is practical and functional, characterized by over shapes on jackets and shirts, it is strongly committed to respect the environment, thanks to the use of cashmere and recycled wool further expanding the approach #UseTheExisting in blends of natural and synthetic fibers. “Our art has a duty to respect the earth. It is our mission, both as human beings and as a designer” explains Alessandro Sartori, Artistic Director of the brand, who has chosen the most evocative colors that dress nature: mastic, sandstone, cloudy sky, brown quartz, dark loden illuminated by touches of rose gold, copper, red amber and peacock blue.
The Dolce & Gabbana woman recovers the art of “handmade” by placing in the foreground the traditional values of Made in Italy that distinguish the value of our manufacture from that of the rest of the world. 121 looks that tell each one a different story, an authentic memory. Pinstriped wools and houndsteeth also for the female double-breasted jacket, complete with peaked lapels and “coppola” hats for a woman with a strong and sensual identity.
The same values we find in the men’s collection of the two designers, who deeply believe in the precious values of craftsmanship and in the importance that they are handed down from generation to generation, to protect the immense heritage of our culture and our workers. Dolce & Gabbana’s “Art Crafts” are told by men who embody the aspects of beautiful Italy made of sun, fruits, and breathtaking landscapes. With their authentic faces, dressed in wool tweed, tartan, houndstooth, velvet.
In a scenario that represents abstract squares that communicate with each other through red-lit doors, Prada once again celebrates the woman’s innate authority and strength that are highlighted through her actions. Infinite, as multifaceted is the female personality and her choices that lead her to bravely face opposite itineraries. Dynamism, therefore, plays a fundamental role in women’s clothing, which is why it is presented in a superior aesthetic key. The fringes, a constant declined in different materials that mark the rhythm of the action directed in different directions and purposes: in the revisited suits, in the glamorous knitwear, on blazers or bright sequin dresses that unleash the maximum of femininity. Floral prints in a digital key with elements that appeal to the world of sport and technical fabrics for practicality with high intellectual content.
The men’s collection is represented in squares where the foundations of Renaissance architecture are lived together with graphics and digital projections to underline how past and present live together, that everything we are experiencing already has a historical value. Men observed from above, whose paths cross in a game of exciting style that contrasts traditional materials with recycled technological fibers that are already part of our stylistic heritage. Old and new coexist infusing each other’s energy, through a new interpretation.
All men, with multifaceted personalities, in the Ferragamo world painted by Paul Andrew. From the businessman to the biker, to the irresistible charm of the pilot, the sailor and the soldier’s uniform, and finally the surfer, re-edited with materials typical of the metropolitan wardrobe. Consecrated portraits of different male personalities who change their wetsuits and present themselves on the catwalk with contemporary cuts of great impact and a mix of precious materials such as wool, cashmere and leather in an unusual and stimulating way.
The women’s collection is also divided by archetypes, but the inspiration is the great women of history: “dressing defines the body and goes beyond the concept of clothing, now obsolete for both men and women. We were inspired by the intelligence, courage and charisma of some female icons such as Virginia Woolf, Nancy Pelosi, Nina Simone and Michelle Obama” comments Creative Director Paul Andrew. Sandals or scarves revisited in leather, fabrics and embroidery. Rubber soles and high boots in stretch leather, recycled materials and vegetable dyes. A strong, courageous, elegant and formal woman but at the same time bold, capable of questioning, practical and glamorous.
After five years of creative direction in the Gucci fashion house, Alessandro Michele explodes with a show with a revolutionary flavor. He invites us to look at everything with the eyes of a child. Free from preconceptions, the rules that impose customs and modus vivendi imposed by society. The scene is dominated by a gigantic pendulum by Foucault, a symbol of a cultural context that marks the fate of men and women, also determining their personal choices. Hence the invitation to reflect on the need to be free to find oneself, without the chains of stereotypes that have contaminated our personality and the path of our lives, on what is right and wrong. Sweatshirts that express a clear invitation to reflect Think, schoolboy aprons in contrast with punk hairstyles and on ripped denim, other words impatient and impotent are a clear reference to the often strangled desire to express oneself. The intent in which the designer in this show, to depict the out of the ordinary, has succeeded very well.
Last but not least, King Giorgio has always the keys of elegance in his hand. The collection built for him is enveloping, the protagonist fabrics are pleasant to the touch and ideal for enhancing the figure of the man. The velvet declined in different shapes and weights, even on the lapels like a soft shawl; warm and thick mountain wools on jacquard knitwear, impalpable wools on coats, jackets and trousers, follow the movements of the body in a fluid way.
The aspects of masculine elegance are softened to be shared with the female wardrobe: jacquard maxi ties complete looks made up of large trousers with turn-ups and pleats, while Napoleonic velvet uniforms enhance the female silhouette in the collections of Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani. As camouflage prints, they take the form of sparkling floral decorations in jackets and soft pants. He concludes the show with a selection of looks from the Giorgio Armani Privé spring/summer 2009 and 2019 collections, inspired by China, a country with which the designer has always had a special, aesthetic and cultural link.
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