Contemporary niche perfumery represents a fascinating fusion of tradition and innovation, weaving an intricate scented tapestry across the geographical landscape. This tapestry connects the historic brands of the West with the emerging perfumers of the Far East through its precious threads. In an increasingly globalized world, one of the languages that remains unique to each culture is that of fragrances, delineating the sometimes unexplored boundaries of popular traditions and the contemporary zeitgeist.
In recent years, the landscape of the niche perfumery industry has undergone a transformation that includes new perfumers from regions such as India, Turkey, and the Middle East. This new ‘olfactory weave,’ whose mission is not to dominate the market but to complement what is already available, adds even more diversity to the precious ‘olfactory tapestry’ explored in this article.
Niche perfumeries: an olfactory dialogue between East and West
Rooted in the centuries-old traditions of European perfumery, where prestigious houses carefully crafted distinctive scents for generations (Lorenzo Villoresi), the contemporary niche perfumery movement embraces Turkish perfumery. With deep roots in Ottoman traditions, Turkish perfumers skillfully blend enveloping notes of spices to create fragrances that reflect the opulent history and dynamic present of Turkey (Pekji).
Contemporary niche perfumery, inherently genderless, becomes a global olfactory dialogue where historic Western brands converse with the most innovative perfumers of the Far East, creating a precious olfactory tapestry that celebrates the diversity and richness of our shared human experience.
Lorenzo Villoresi’s Piper Nigrum perfume takes us to the desert
Lorenzo Villoresi needs no introduction in the niche perfumery world. Founded in 1990 in Florence, the company has been a trailblazer in high perfumery, blending a cosmopolitan and international spirit with a classic yet innovative combination of notes and essences.
The chosen fragrance is Piper Nigrum, an ode to the desert atmosphere that permeates the air, carrying, as stated by Dr. Lorenzo Villoresi exclusively for MANINTOWN, “the scent of herbs and spices brought by the wind, of caravans crossing the desert laden with aromas, searching for new worlds and horizons.”
The top notes reveal a bouquet of dill, anise, and wild fennel, caressed by the freshness of peppermint, with citrusy, green, and coniferous nuances lending a unique and lively character. In the heart of the fragrance, intense notes of black pepper, oregano, and nutmeg emerge, enriched by the resinous depth of elms and incense. Petitgrain, clove leaves, and sea rosemary add complexity, while spicy undertones intensify the enveloping aroma. Finally, the base notes create a lingering and persistent foundation. Amber, storax, and benzoin provide warmth, while Peruvian balsam and myrrh add richness. Atlas cedar contributes to a reassuring solidity, and aromatic wood nuances complete this sensory journey, leaving an unforgettable imprint.
Lorenzo Villoresi Piper Nigrum is available in 50ml and 100ml spray formats, as well as the 100ml Extra spray essence.
From Turkey: the Blacklight fragrance by Pekji
Founded in 2018 by Omer Ipekci, born in Istanbul to a middle-class family, Pekji has a founder who spent his childhood in diverse environments and cultures. Before entering the world of perfumery, Omer worked as a graphic designer and illustrator, seeking various ways to express himself. However, it was the world of fragrances that finally provided him with the medium in which he could “hide the freedom of expression under form and function,” as Omer himself has repeatedly stated. His olfactory stage is eclectic and inclusive, believing that perfume should first connect with the wearer rather than serve as a signal to others, becoming a cult object, a tool for personal ritual, and a sensory delight.
The selected fragrance is Blacklight. As stated by Omer, Blacklight is the “crossroads between incompleteness, non-collaboration, and the Reset collection” where a harmony of sharp and saturated blue-green notes unfolds against a backdrop of earth and ink. Anise aldehydes and peppery notes interweave in a contrasting dialogue with hints of leather, iris, and vetiver. The absence of heart notes between the vibrant opening and the stoic base generates an empty (and void) yet pulsating (and alive) sensation. The concept of this composition, named “Reset,” introduces mental consciousness into an infinite dissociative space. The evoked colors range from white to iridescent, passing through blue- green and black, while the texture appears sharp and smooth, and the imagined environment tends towards infinity.
Pekji Blacklight, along with the entire Pekji line, is exclusively available in Italy at Stefano Saccani Parma. The fragrance is available in a 50ml format.
The beginning of a journey to discover niche perfumery
These few words have marked the meeting of traditions and highly different creative minds with contrasting colors: from the black of pepper to the nuances of the turbulent oil industry in the Bosporus. Dear readers, however, this is only the beginning of a multisensory journey that evolves and will explore the olfactory art in a continuous (and perhaps) revolutionary crescendo.
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