MSGM X Diadora have created an activewear with vintage appeal: joggers, basketball shorts, zipped sweatshirts and sneakers. Two total looks, sneakers included, in which some vintage models by Diadora are reinterpreted according to the MSGM language. The codes, therefore, are rewritten with a contemporary twist, though without relinquishing their iconic identity. The legendary brand from Veneto has collaborated with MSGM on a brand-new collection for the next Autumn/Winter 2017-18. The creative partnership between the two Italian brands was unveiled for the rst time during Milan Fashion Week in January 2017. Undoubtedly a step in the sporty direction for a brand that has always irted with pop culture and, above all, with music. In all likelihood the collection will be unveiled in September, in the meantime we sat down with Massimo Giorgetti, MSGM Creative Director to understand how this project was born.
How did you work at this collection?
I have to say that creating this collection with Diadora has come about very naturally. Diadora is, by all means, one of the most important sports brands in the world. I am a great lover of the sneakers, I’ve always been one, when Diadora proposed me this project, I accepted without second thoughts. I have always considered their striped sweat-shirts of the ‘80s to be a cult. The energy of the sports world and the Italian know-how are still present, both with MSGM and Diadora. Personally, having always worn sneakers, it was like meeting an old chummy friend. The items are the reinterpretation of their archive models, though reinterpreted with typical MSGM cuts, shades and taste.
Which style elements and enthusiasts do Diadora and MSGM share? What are their strengths?
Diadora, unlike MSGM, is a merely sportswear band, but it has the sprightliness and desire to live the present that we share. Something about Diadora that has always struck me is its sixty years long story, a logo recognized everywhere, cuts and prints that have marked the imagery of the ‘80s, and that is coming back roaring.
Music and fashion always go hand in hand, if you were to pick a singer or a mu- sician, who would be perfectly suited for the MSGM X Diadora collection, who would that be?
Lately, I quite like Canadian singer with Portuguese roots Shawn Mendes, he is as young as talented, he is only 18 and has already won important awards and ac- knowledgments, like 2016 MTV Music Awards’ best global artist.
What is your take on the current sportswear and great labels mix? What kind of change does this represent, according to you, in terms of market, culture and style?
Well, having stated that I have always has a fascination for sportswear, I have no- ticed that nowadays people are “obsessed” with their physical appearance, hence with sport. Before or after going to work, everybody goes to the gym, so, for some brands, it has become almost physiological to create and include a few sportswear items in their collections, to meet this need.
Is there an anecdote linked to the collection that you’d like to tell us? I have to smile whenever I think how funny and strange it was to nd, in the Diadora archives, models and prints that have stuck with me since my childhood.
Do you think that there will be more collaborations in the future? For sure, but I don’t want to anticipate anything… I love surprises!
Cover_question mark table. sketch and product, 2017
With a career in the creative sector spanning four decades, Gaetano Pesce is one of the most renowned voices in Italian design. Born in La Spezia in 1939, Pesce’s works range from architecture, to interior design, to sculpture, vases and even jewellery. A convinced supporter that creative intuition is liberating, when talking about the present he speaks of the past; when recalling his creative coherence, he explains the incoherence of expressive language. Pluralism and variability are for this architect/sculptor/designer the very fundamentals of every design process, just as new materials and shapes are the basis of the new semantics of aesthetic.
You are a 360-degree creative: can you tell us about your creative process? How does it change when designing, for example, a vase, versus a lamp, an interior concept, or a building?
Creativity has no boundaries – and neither do ideas. Some ideas are better suited for creating architecture while others can be useful for creating objects, and others still for making music or writing poetry. This is called multi-disciplinarianity. To understand what I am saying, just look at some of the important artists of the Renaissance. Raffaello designed uniforms for the guards in the Vatican while at the same time sketching out the urban planning of the Vatican City, in addition to – as everyone knows – painting extraordinary canvases paying homage to Italy still found in major countries around the world. That’s not to speak of Leonardo or Michelangelo or other multidisciplinary artists of the Renaissance. To go from object to architecture to sculpture, nothing changes other than the scale. The motivation of each project is the same, expressed through different media.
Your materials research: foam, resin, polymers – how much does the material serve the creative objective? How much does it determine the shape? I believe in being honest with my time, I am also of the idea that I should use materials discovered during the moments of my lifetime. Commonly, these are called “synthesis substances,” and as I see it, they are much higher performers than materials of the past. In my creative processes, I like to give these materials 30-40% freedom because their richness very often surpasses that of my mental creative capacity.
What is your relationship between objects and the body – the physicality in your creations?
I believe that abstract expression has long ago surpassed reality. That’s why objects appear in my work, because they are recognizable by the viewer so they help communicate and reveal the content of my work. For the last 50 years, Figuration has been an important element in my creations. The representative component is one that speaks beyond the many languages and cultures of the world. More recently, the computer communicates in the same way for users from different countries around the world.
Either with its cool and sparkling citrus notes, or with the artfully hypnotic presence of deep amber notes, for centuries the perfume has inspired daydreams and unconscious olfactory memories. In a dimension that crosses the boundaries of fashion and personal style, the perfumer’s craft has always been considered to be a noble and refined form of art, practiced by the most capable masters, able to turn a few drops of shimmering vanity into a quintessential olfactory pleasure. Head, heart and bottom are like musical notes to be simultaneously modulated and masterly blended to give birth a rich and composite symphony, to be discovered in all its unexpected facets. This is the real raison d’être of a perfume: a sensorial window on universes materializing with unexpected immediacy. Six maisons de parfum have chosen art as their exclusive view on the land of elsewhere, drawing inspiration from painting, sculpture, poetry and music to create shapes, shades and essences. A boundless milky limbo, consisting of dreamy visions between art and parfum, where one can plunge and be carried away.
HISTOIRES DE PARFUMS
An olfactory library telling stories to be read on the skin. The perfume is turned into the refined and sensual means to spread poetry, the collection’s inspirational fulcrum. 3 Golds d’Histoires de Parfums, created by the French perfumer and founder of the brand Gérald Ghislain are the fragrances perpetuating the ancient art of the French perfumers, its luxury, prestige and creativity. The absolute protagonist is the gold, each type of this precious metal recalls a timeless, eternal and ever topical concept. VENI, represented by the yellow gold, symbolizes eternity; a gift by the immortal deities, with the woody notes at the core of the essence that recall a dreamlike journey on an adventurous ship crossing lively waves of grey amber. ROSAM is an ode to wisdom, being traditionally associated with the moon’s shade, like the colour of white gold. The shades highlight the radiance of a delicate and sophisticated rose emerging from an oud bouquet and emanating incense. In FIDELIS, gold merges with copper, the metal dedicated to Venus, the goddess of love and seduction: a persistent kiss with notes of coffee, saffron and spicy amber.
Art can come in many different forms. One of its many manifestations is the craft, the daily practice of an ancient handicraft ritual, quality at the service of the others. The art of the barber is no exception. The latter has found its original character in a little space in Brescia, Argagn, far from the frenzy of the city centre, a place where one can relax, savouring the bliss of every single moment. This is a place for polyhedral passions: not merely a barber’s shop, but also a modern lounge bar with an international feel and an art gallery. A concept arising from the travel memories of its owners Mattia Guandalini and his wife Barbara, who have decided to bet on a format that is unique in Italy. Argagn is a bridge between past and future, creating an innovative space, where anyone can rediscover customs and art of a time past. The double nature of the barber shop / art gallery is also expressed in the exclusive collection of Argagn products, where nothing is left to chance; each and every ingredient, aroma and packaging is personally selected by the owners of the brand from Brescia.
Roads, spreading in front of the individual in every direction. They are as infinite as Art, which cannot be pigeonholed into watertight compartments, but is free to flow, moved by a variety of inspirations. ROADS Fragrances is grounded on its author’s, Danielle Ryan, idea to merge several artistic ingredients in one essence; hence the collection Africa, a cultural collaboration in which African influences are harmoniously combined with inspirations from the world of literature, art and dance. Each fragrance is enclosed in a package that, like a canvas, displays the works by artists from different African countries. The perfume I am dance reproduces the rapid and complex rhythm of the Pantsula dance, Big sky portrays the vast African skies, Past | Present draws from the meditative tones of the Nigerian modern literature, while Afropolis celebrates the multiculturalism of the different cities dotting the African continent.
An essence can also be held in unique art objects, like the genderless fragrances AGONIST, Swedish brand launched by the artistic couple Christine and Niclas Lydeen, the former has a fashion background, while the latter is an Art Director and visual artist. Authentic sculptures, specially created by Åsa Jungnelius, award-winning glass designer, hold the 100% natural essences, sculptures recalling the clear climate of Northern Europe and its culture, imbued with the transparent lightness of the air. The ampoules are turned into pieces of a collection boasting flowing and elegant lines, suggesting the content of the bottles. Arctic Jade recalls a frozen landscape, with cold and transparent hues, which well represents the cool feeling on the skin, enhanced by the Brazilian Orange. Black Amber, instead, plays with darker tones of the Atlas Cedar Wood. Solaris is the sun that never sets and brightens up the nights of the Nordic lands: a warm and citrus fragrance, with a bottom of Patchouli.
A tailor’s atelier, the laboratory of a shoemaker, a goldsmith’s workshop; like Proust’s madeleine moments, sharp and sudden olfactory memories are brought back to memory by primordial fragrances holding unexpected light reflections, silences, gazes, emotions. These are EXTRAIT D’ATELIER’s suggestions, proud brand from Veneto, symbolizing the Italian industriousness and drawing from the French allure. The label makes use of the most delicate wild flowers’ notes and merges them with ozone aldehydes ones to recall moments of life. The art of the craft, of the most meticulous handicraft is both inspiration and method for this debut collection. The workshops, with their allure of a time past, are celebrated in the label’s bottles, the fragrances EXTRAIT D’ATELIER are held in iridescent bottles, in ampoules enclosing the history of a great past and the noble “essence du savoir faire”. Through a refined olfactory path, they vouch for joy and flair, inspiring in those who wear them the desire to feel a Master too, a master of life, of the subtle art of living.
Art-house essences for the new collection VERDÚU: Made-in-Germany brand with a vanguard flair, stemming from the creative mind of Alexander Botov. A set of art-house fragrances conceived by four fashion designers. A portrait in a bottle crafted by world-famous perfumer Mark Buxton, who has sketched with poetic sensitiveness the most ineffable corners of the personalities of his four colleagues and artists. A liaison of different experiences, arising from the will to create a multi-faceted, absolutely original “all-round” in which design, fashion and parfum are hand in glove. Wearing the scented creations of the protagonists of this olfactory encounter is not like wearing their dresses, rather, it is an introspective, exceptionally personal experience. Needle and thread won’t be needed, a cloud of intense vaporized aroma is all you need to feel bespoke.
By now TV series are an indisputable part of our lives. We come home from work, lie on the couch, unplug, tune in and away we go. Before the dawn of WebTV, there would be a weekly rendezvous at our friend’s house, the one with the satellite dish. These days, especially since the arrival of Netflix, we can happily watch our favourite show whenever we want. Let’s see which series will keep us glued to the screen in the coming months.
Speaking of Netflix, it’s impossible not to highlight the success of legal drama Suits, now up to its sixth season in Italy (the seventh is under work in The US). A show with a strong focus on style, as well as the usual relationship twists and disputes, all within a law firm in New York. Already the title of the show gives away one of the passions of the main character: the classic business suit, impeccably styled by lawyer Harvey Specter (Gabriel Macht), who never appears without his white pocket square. Another reason to watch the show is Meghan Markle. The future princess (in real life, the girlfriend of Prince Harry) plays Rachel Elizabeth Zane, an assistant at Pearson & Hardman, the law firm around which the story revolves. About the new episodes coming up, Gabriel Macht says “the story is taking a very real turn, viewers won’t be seeing “super hero” lawyers anymore but normal people with their same problems, facing real issues.”
Another cult series to watch (or rewatch, in case you missed the first two seasons) is Twin Peaks. Exclusive to Sky Atlantic, the third chapter from the genius mind of David Lynch, carries on 25 years after the second season’s conclusion. Amongst the 217 cast members, we find old and new faces (like Monica Bellucci) and the always elegant special agent Dale Cooper, with his unmistakable dark suit and white shirt. After unmasking Laura Palmer’s killer, almost 30 years after, the agent will have to confront new supernatural phenomena, as they return to haunt the forests surrounding Twin Peaks. We won’t say anymore, knowing how much fans hate spoilers and knowing Lynch, there will be plenty of new dramatic twists. And then some: “I couldn’t help but putting out there, Twin Peaks was living in my subconscious. I have no intention to end it here” shares the director. Should we expect a fourth season?
Also signed Sky is the series that enchanted millions of Italian fans, Game of Thrones. The on screen adaptation of George R.R. Martin’s novels Songs of Ice and Fire has reached its seventh season, which we’ll be able to watch in July, at the same time as American audiences. These seven new episodes will prelude to the grand finale, expected for 2018, when the wars to conquer the Throne of Westeros will end.
As always the backdrops will be incredibly majestic: the filming took place during the cold seasons between Northern Ireland, Spain and Iceland. We can say it now, winter is definitely upon us. And so says Jon Snow, played by Kit Harrington, “this seventh season will be the the darkest and bleakest for the characters, before we reach the happy ending, if we can call it that, of the final season”.
One series (this one on Netflix) that started off as a slow burner and has slowly earned a huge following is Stranger Things. At first viewing it appears as a show catering to young adults, only because the characters are young. But the horror vibes, intense drama and setting – a fictional town in Indiana in the 80’s – make for mature viewing, not too different from the above mentioned Twin Peaks, starting from the very eerie soundtrack. The second season is set to air on Halloween, so there’s still time to put the popcorn in the microwave and grab your spot in the couch. Meanwhile, to get into the mood you can put on your check flannel shirts, the characters favourite item of clothing. The detective boys return to further investigations, because as the creators Matt and Ross Duffer assure “we have only just opened the curtains on the ‘Upside Down’ place and now we want to explore it”. Fans are advised, new mysteries and new creatures lie waiting.
Lovers of political and power intrigues must not miss House of Cards. Also by Sky Atlantic this started in end of May, so you’re still in time to catch it on NowTV, Sky’s excellent WebTV. The new 13 episodes from the 5th season, take off from where we left at the end of last year when the president of the USA, Frank Underwood (Kevin Spacey) and the First Lady Claire had said farewell to the public with the lines: “we don’t suffer terror, we create terror”. In these new episodes, Underwood will exploit the fear of his citizens to obtain more votes. In a recent interview Spacey declared, “what’s interesting is that those watching the show a few years ago were thinking ‘hell, this is crazy. It could never happen”. And 18 months later they were thinking “wait a minute, the events in House of Cards could really happen. Or they already are.’ I think we’re more terrified than ever.”
Another hugely awaited series is Mindhunters, on Netflix starting October. We couldn’t but have great expectations coming from the director of House of Cards, Seven and Zodiac! The show is set in 1979 and centres on agent Bill Tench (Holt McCallany) who, together with partner Holden Ford (Jonathan Groff) tries to dig deep in the mind of serial killers to solve cases. A sort of cauldron within which they blended Lie to Me, True Detective and Criminal Minds, resulting in what experts are calling a fascinating voyage in the mind of assassins. It’s bound to be a huge success and a second season has already been signed, before the first one has officially aired.
Selected in the galaxy the worldwide automotive panorama today represents, MANINTOWN suggests five four-wheeled divas, which have recently hit the world scene. Five cars, whose debut has made an impression and that will keep thrilling in the next future. From the “little one”, Tesla 3, to the magnificent Rolls Royce Sweptail, we are about to introduce to you: an everyday car, a slim and sporty sedan, a car with four-wheel drive system that will help you escape from the city to the mountains, a premium flagship model with outstanding performance and, lastly, a masterpiece of design and automotive engineering, difficult to replicate, as unique in the world.
Tesla is the most innovative manufacturer in the world: the first to have developed electric cars sporting stunning performance. The latest creation to emerge from Palo Alto’s labs is Model 3. It debuted last year, but it will be sold in Europe starting from the end of the current year, it combines long battery life, performance and safety. This is the most affordable Tesla, priced 35.000 USD in the United States. 345 kilometres battery life, 0-100 Km/h in less than six seconds, it has room for five adults and autopilot. 280.000 bookings in the first three days following its debut. Record-breaking eco-friendliness.
Alpine launched the A110 Renault in 1962 and less than ten years later it won the world rally championship. Renault unveiled the new Alpine at the last Geneva Motor Show: the 1955 specimen produced for the launch sold like hotcakes. Via the smartphone and tablet app, it is possible to book the A110 that will be produced in 2018. This little missile, rivalling Alfa Romeo 4C and Porsche Cayman, sports an aluminium platform, weighs about a ton and has 252 horsepower engine. The flat bottom shell allows eliminating all external aerodynamic parts, leaving it absolutely streamlined. Jewel.
LAND ROVER VELAR
Although it may look like a Range Rover, Land Rover Velar rewrites with mastery and rigour the brand’s style features. With extremely well-balanced volumes, 22 inch wheels, handles that sink back into the doors and linear interiors, it sits between the feminine Evoque and the now rather common Range Rover Sport. The slim led headlights are equipped with high beams capable of recreating daytime light at night. Its refined all-wheel drive and its dynamic features make it capable of facing any kind of terrain. Six engines, diesel and petrol, up to 380 PS. The car can already be booked, deliveries will start in September. Status Symbol.
BMW CONCEPT 8 SERIES
Once upon a time there was glorious BMW 850: coupé, four seats, twelve cylinders, retractable headlights. Nobody ever forgot it. At last the Bavarian carmaker has come back to this segment showcasing at auto fair Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, the Concept 8 Series. This icon from Munich sports timeless elegance and a powerful silhouette, with prominent wheelhouses revealing its immense athletic potential. Inside, the gear shift, like the iDrive Controller, is in Swarovski crystals. Obviously carbon fibre and first-rate leather abound. Engine with 6, 8 e 12 cylinders. Fully equipped. Awesome.
ROLLS ROYCE SWEPTAIL
Sweptail is a hand-made, bespoke two-seater Rolls Royce Coupé for its (only) owner. Unveiled at the latest Concorso Villa d’Este, its development took three years, and it features two majestic seats and an absolutely panoramic glass skylight. Its elegant line is inspired by a yacht, running from the bonnet, all the way to the windscreen, it accelerates along the crystal skylight and its tail is simply a masterpiece. Behind the seats there’s a special compartment for the luggage: it sports exotic wood finishing, like a Riva Aquarama. Customized on-board clock and champagne chiller in the central console. Should you be interested, the tailor-made department accepts more orders. Unique.
Louis Vuitton has opened up in London a pop up store, that will last until 21st July, where the brand presented a preview of the Autumn/Winter 2017 menswear collection and revealed the exclusive collaboration with Supreme. The dynamic New York culture of the recent past, ‘70s, ‘80s and early ‘90s, is the inspiration for the collection dedicated to the next season. It is an ode to the kaleidoscope of styles that coexist and mix together in New York. The concept of collaboration itself suggests the harmonious fusion of two distinct parts, a creative journey towards a new whole. This exclusive union between the spirit of journey of the French maison and the young and rebel style of Supreme gets the splendor coming from every aspect of life in the Big Apple, that characterize three decades and reveal a multifaceted view of masculinity.
Photographer | Pier Nicola Bruno Stylist | Giorgia Cantarini Models | AINO @thelabmodels and [email protected]independetmodelsmanagement Hair and Make up | Laura Rinaldi Photographer Assistant & post production | Elisa Trapani Stylist Assistant | Orsola Amadeo, Chiara Troiani Brands selection and concept by Alfredo Canducci- Tomorrow Ltd
Special Athleisure Area at White June Edition
Revisiting and restyling. It’s not the rst time future fashion styles are created by re- elaborating and looking into the past. Now more than ever, the majority of brands are following this trend, especially in streetwear. However, this time the story is a bit di erent: It’s not about nostalgia or the illusion of returning to a happy moment in the past-if anything, it’s the desire to embrace the multiplicity of a unique present without renouncing anything. In fact, this 2017 season, many sporty brands are tapping into their archives resulting in o ering the market reworked versions of timeless styles. Who does not remember the famous Pony or the much-loved Air Max? We are talking about those classic pieces that made history for such brands as Pony, Wrangler, Nike, New Balance and many others who, in many facets, have looked back in time to turning their past icons the new key pieces of the season, not out of nostalgia but as part of the inevitable conclusion that our past de nes who we are in the present and also suggests that high quality withstands the test of time and crisis. Economic and otherwise.
Novelty and a look back into the past for Lacoste, which has chosen tennis star Novak Djokovic as its new “crocodile” for the next ve years. Tennis returns as the central theme of the line in honour of founder René Lacoste, tennis player who has revolutionized sportswear in the 1930s by creating the iconic Polo L.12.12, in petite cotton piqué. The brand dedicates a collection to Novak who will don the brand during tournaments; solidifying this link to the former era is the visual campaign images shot by Jacob Sutton, where past and present sit side by side, demonstrating the timeless elegance of the brand.
Protagonists in the ring and on the tennis court, spotted on the feet of the most famous athletes of the 1980s and on the streets all over the world, the Pony, and especially the City Wings High, return to enhance today’s casual style, giving a vintage but modern look.
Eden Park, a Parisian brand founded in 1987 by the former rugby champion Franck Mesnel and Eric Blanc, known for having a pink butter y logo, revives for its thirtieth anniversary, the iconic rugby shirt, the garment that started it all back at Eden Park stadium in Auckland, New Zealand.
New Balance has a vintage spirit. As demonstrated this year by the re-launch of the CRT300 back on the market, which had rst appeared on tennis courts in the 1980s. Today, the remake is available in suede and mesh, in nuances of retro taste.
One example is Wrangler, famous denim brand that on the occasion of its seventy-year anniversary decided to celebrate their success by reprising its colourful collaboration with artist Peter Max, a modern and contemporary re-launch of his multi-colour pockets. The same ones that hoards of youngsters donned in the early ‘70s.
For the Spring/Summer 2017 collection, Tommy Hilger’s denim line Tommy Jeans draws from the nineties, celebrating the iconic pieces of that time and bringing new life into styles that marked the brand’s beginning. To interpret the spirit of the brand are Lucky Blue Smith, Anwar Hadid and So a Richie, stars of the ad campaign.
Nike, has chosen among its many successful styles to revisit the unforgettable Air Max 1, the iconic shoe for those were teenagers in the ‘90s. Now they return, new and reworked, ready to out t the feet of a new generation.
Leather coat DIRK BIKKEMBERGS; Jacket and Jeans Y/PROJECT; Shoes DSQUARED2
Photographer Pier Nicola Bruno Stylist Giorgia Cantarini Stylist Assistant Orsola Amadeo Grooming Giulia Sbarzella @MH Artist Model Artur @Fashion Model Management Digital Tech Lorenzo Formicola Post Production Elisa Trapani Location Spirit de Milan
Resilience. It is perhaps the best word to describe Tania Cagnotto, Italy’ most accomplished diver ever and winner of two Olympic medals and a world gold medal. After two bitter fourth place standings save for a few hundredths of a second in the London Olympics in 2012, the champion from Bolzano bounced back, going on to win the silver medal in the three-metre synchronised dive with Francesca Dallapé and an individual three-metre bronze in Rio in 2016.
Her resilience and determination led her to end her brilliant career winning the one-metre title at the indoor Italian Athletics Championship in Turin. A “slam” of a closure, literally. On her concluding dive, she waved to her public, ending with an explosive cannonball splash, as requested by her fans on social media. With this interview, MANINTOWN dives into the life of the champion.
What was the most important thing you learned from your years of being in the water? Definitely, it is to have respect. The water us something that can relax you, but teach you at the same time. It is always present, in the sea, whether for sport or for fun. It is essential.
In sports, the guidance of parents and professionals is fundamental, and in your case the two figures coincide. What role did your father have in your decision to dedicate yourself to diving? My father definitely taught me so much, as did my mother, because they had the same experience and knew how to advise me. But they never pressured me, and that was one of the most important things. And maybe for that reason I went so far, because they forced no expectations on me.
How did you find the strength to keep going all these years? When I was young, I began diving for fun, I had my diving team and I never missed out on anything: I had my friends and I had the sport. All together. I had everything I needed. After London, it wasn’t easy for me, but I felt that the only thing that would have made me feel better would be to win. Instead, after the World Aquatics Championships in Barcelona, I had my four best years, at the end of my career. It couldn’t have gone better.
What was the highest point of your long career? Definitely Rio, the medal from the synchronised dive.
What is one thing you want to do that haven’t done before, perhaps because of your training schedule? Just enjoy being home, without having to train, eating whatever I want.
What is your relationship with fashion? I like it a lot, in fact now I want to dedicate myself to it more. I like going to fashion events and want do to more of it.
What garment represents you the most? Dresses. Short ones, because I am tall, 6 foot 2.
One yet-to-be-fulfilled dream? Maybe to be part of a nice diving team again, one day.
cover_i’d rather be happy baron, i’d rather be happy than dignified (2017);
24 ct gold leaf, silk screen & giclÉe on 308 gsm cotton rag archival paper.
Magnus Gjoen is a new kind of artist, a liquid artist (he calls himself accidental and after he explains why). Liquid, because today there is no need for attributions anymore. He Born in London to Norwegian parents, and grew up in Switzerland, Denmark, Italy as well as in the UK. He mix street and pop aesthetic into a fine art approach. Gjoen studied fine art and fashion design , he had work for brands such as Vivienne Westwood. Thought provoking and often emotional art, he offers a modern vision on classical masterpieces, or manipulates powerful and strong objects into something brittle, but always beautiful.
How did you become interested in the History of Art, which highly affects your production? My passion for art and history comes from my childhood. I grew up in different places around the world and travelled a lot, and with that came countless visits to museums as well as my family being avid collectors of art. I studied fine art before I went onto studying fashion design and have come full circle back to art. I would say the thirst for discovery and beauty and the stories behind them is what has always driven me.
How would you explain the definition “accidental artist”? It all came about as an accident when I wanted artwork to put on the walls of my new flat in London. I had no intention of going into art, but looking around at art I thought to myself ‘I can do that’, and so I did.
What should call forth in the public the view of your works? An emotion. When creating a piece of art you always want to evoke a memory or emotion which the viewer is able to associate with. It can be anything but if it doesn’t do this you have failed in my post of view.
Are your creations more provocative or irreverent? I think both. It sometimes surprises me what offends people in this day and age. I don’t set out to create a work that provokes, but rather that re-evaluates the norm and beauty associated with something. It’s about commenting on things which people don’t want to see.
How would you define beauty nowadays? I would define beauty as one always has; something pleasing to the eye. Different people have different perspectives which makes some people see beauty where others don’t. Beauty is everywhere, one just has to look hard enough and choose to want to see it.
What happens when award-winning fashion and a Made-in-Italy traditional segment like menswear tailoring encounters the web? How can needle and thread and a passion for bespoke garments go hand-in-hand with the network’s speed and with its global character? If, on the one hand, the World Wide Web is a communication tool for worldwide expansion, on the other hand, it also allows new opportunities for development, also for the most customized crafts, like hand-made tailoring. Today it takes the best to titillate men’s vanity, both in terms of fabrics and sartorial mastery. Hence the web is used not only to promote workshops dotting the Beautiful Country, but also to spread their cutting and sewing expertise. How? One of the most interesting tool currently online is Aplomb, a platform resulting from the passion and phantasy of three very young entrepreneurs, Federico Grasso, Luigi Ugge and Massimiliano Invernici, going to show that bespoke tailoring is not just “an old guys business”. In a matter of months, this “virtual tailors’ atelier”has become a rapidly growing business, aiming to create a network of sartorial appeal for real gentlemen. The goal is clear: not to bring the tailor’s atelier to the user’s place, but to bring client to tailor together through a painstakingly selected network of Italian tailor’s workshops, so that the new dandy can pick the one that is most suitable for him, both in terms of style and location, without running the risk of coming across a fake. Today, this portal comprises fifteen tailors’ ateliers in Lombardy, Veneto, Piedmont, Lazio, Apulia, Campania, Sicily and Basilicata, but the goal of the three entrepreneurs is to double the number in a very short time. Not a bad result, if we consider that Grasso’s, Ugge’s and Invernici’s combined years of age are far from totalling one century. The pre-selection of the sartorial ateliers occurs through an advisor, then there’s the interview. These strict criteria guarantee the user to find in Aplomb only the best, with practical info as to who guarantees a bespoke or made-to-measure service. It is possible to book a visit to a tailor’s workshop from the website, and soon a style advisor service will be available, allowing users to receive precious advice – the service is currently undergoing some testing. Aplomb is not only at the service of the connoisseurs, but also of the tailor’s workshops, indeed the platform allows them to promote themselves through articles, pics and videos: an outstanding way to illustrate a great passion for sartorial culture. Aplomb is likewise active on the social networks, which are used as communication tool to spread info, bring together the enthusiasts and share ideas and passions. The Facebook community totals approximately 2 thousand followers, and it is growing by 10% per week, while the Instagram profile has already reached 8k followers. The network has been selected to be part of the Start Up School/Y Combinator and is now part of the Founder Track program, a worldwide accelerator for the internationalization of websites, online activities and start-ups. The three managers have a forwards-looking mind-set, both in terms of time and space; their next step is the British market: to virtually join the two main marketplaces for the tailor-made, Italy and England. Faster than the Channel tunnel, they cross France with a click.
Ryan Cooper easily alternates fashion photoshoot sets and movies’ red carpets. He is the new face of international cinema. With his great screen presence and his statuesque body- he was also a carpenter-, this guy from New Guinea has convinced all and, starting with the advertising campaigns of Armani Exchange, DKNY, Hugo Boss and Trussardi Jeans, he has moved to the big screen and soon we can see him acting with Scarlett Johansson in Crazy Night.
Tell us about your roots and family. How did this influence your life? I grew up without a lot of things, living in 3rd world countries with people who don’t have a lot, but were very happy and generous. It makes you appreciate the things that you do have but do not need. I remember we used to often eat our breakfast that had bugs in it due to the humidity. My dad was a missionary and really instilled his beliefs in us. He was a super hard-working guy, and that’s one thing that has definitely helped coming into this business. Treating people right and working hard, we work a lot of long days so you need stamina. I have done 20 hour days doing construction work in the past so that’s prepared me for 12 hours onset.
How did you start your modeling career? Modeling was a bit of luck. A friend asked me to do a shoot for an outdoors store in New Zealand when I was in construction. Then another friend wanted to set me up with an agency that when I met with them they said “you’ll never work!” However, my current modeling manager saw my photos and from there on championed me to travel and work which allowed for a fun few years traveling and shooting around the world.
When did you decide to start cinema and how did it happen? In New York, I met my now manager, who asked if I was interested in acting and has had my back ever since. Honestly, I had not thought of it since doing school productions as a kid. My dad encouraged me to “get a real job”, so I did, in construction. And now that I was traveling/modeling, I had the opportunity to learn from some wonderful coaches in NY and LA, and now have been able to work which is wonderful.
What was your debut in fiction and cinema? My first jobs were smaller parts in indie movies then a brief stint on the soap, “One Life to Live” before that long-lasting production breathed its last breath. I kind of feel a little responsible for that death (laughs)!
He’s always barefoot, he can play more instruments than he has fingers with which to count them, including didgeridoo, guitar, harmonica and Aztec drum. He is a born surfer, a convinced vegetarian and an activist for human rights and for the preservation of the planet. A believer in the idea that “things that are meant to be, will be,” Xavier Rudd has a deep gaze, tattooed arms, and blond hair. He was born in Torquay, Australia to an Aboriginal father and half Irish, half Dutch mother. His music and his optimistic vision of the world intertwine seamlessly and his sound is profoundly influenced by this humanistic point of view. Over the course of recording eight studio albums, this young versatile instrumentalist has excited audiences with his organic sound that has already earned him several awards and mentions. In mid-April, 2017, he returned to Europe with the extraordinary live concert album, recorded in Holland last May 2016 at the historic TivoliVredenburg, the emblematic show of a sold out European tour, and in mid-June takes to the Italian stage again on three dates. Here, he tells us about his inspiration, his grandfather, and his laughs on the beach.
The local music in your country and your origins are important to you. Is that the basis of your own music? Yes, definitely. As a child I didn’t know how to write songs, I simply invented melodies in which I sang about things that were happening to me. It was a totally unconscious process. And in a way, that is still what I do: I put to music that which I live, no more no less. Writing songs is a part of me, it is essential. Like breathing.
When did you decide you’d be a musician? I would say when I was about ten, but I’ve always been drawn to music, or rather, that it was the music that found me.
Where or from whom do you get inspiration? I would say from everything, really. Each of my albums, every song I write comes from within, from what I live through. It’s like a physical, emotional and spiritual travel journal. All my experiences form the journey of my music.
How do you live while you are at home in your village? I live near the sea; there it’s very quiet. When I’m not on tour I like to live like any other normal person who lives on the beach: I surf and I relax. I don’t particularly like being surrounded by people. I like be outside, to sit by a fire, surf, run, swim. I’m active, I love listening the sounds of the land. I don’t watch TV or anything like that.
You travel so much, is there a place you have a special connection to? That’s difficult. I find beauty and harmony in so many different places. I think I can always find places that I would like. I really enjoyed South Africa, for example.
What makes you laugh? Interesting. If you mean what makes me happy, I would be being with my friends around a fire on the beach. It is when we are most at peace and harmony that we really laugh the most.
The release of this live album was very important, it is a very different record than others. Yes, it’s like a retrospective of my work. The tour in Europe was sold all and we were very electrified. There was a special spark, the energy was enormous and it felt a really strong positive feeling from the crowd. We had the opportunity to record last two nights in Utrecht and I thought it would be a good idea especially for us as a point of reference, documenting where we were.
And plus you have ties to Holland through your grandfather. I never thought about it, but yes you could say so. There was a very strong energy those nights. When we listened to the recording again, it was as if we had captured a bit of magic, especially the last night, thus I’m so happy to share now what I feel was the best live recording of my career up to this point.
This year in May at Riccardo Paletti speedway in Varano de’ Melegari the 16th edition of ASI Motoshow took place, a show organized by Automotoclub Storico Italiano. This is a Moto Show dedicated exclusively to classic motorcycles, the biggest and most important in Europe, which gathered thousands enthusiasts around the racetrack, in the paddock and on the speedway’s stands to witness first-hand the magnificent show offered by the 751 motorbikes, divided into nineteen heats, according to their date of construction. As usual capable of grabbing the fans’ attention, world champions like Manuel Poggiali, Freddie Spencer, Loris Capirossi, Giacomo Agostini, record-breaking winner of fifteen World Championship titles, to date unparalleled in the history of motorcycling, took part in the event. All of them, both before and after the race, plunged into the crowds for pics and autographs.
The first lap, not without emotions, was devoted to Roberto Loi (ASI president), MP Giuseppe Romanini and Varano’s major Giuseppe Restiani, accompanied by Palmino Poli, President of Commissione Manifestazioni Moto, and Ariel Atzori, ASI’s vice-president, the true souls of the organization. Immediately after the inauguration, all the participants’ motorbikes crowded the tarmac for the first round of laps.
MV Agusta parades, commemorating Ubaldo Elli, and Motobi, commemorating Primo Zanzani, were spectacular. The initiative ‘100×50’, which paraded hundred mopeds simultaneously, was fun and unique. In addition the historical aircrafts of HAG (Historical Aircraft Group) flew acrobatically, at times at low altitude, over the race track.
The laps were followed by the Cagiva parade, then came the turn of the “Eternal Rivals”, whereby Harley Davidson and Indian, Vespa and Lambretta, BMW and Honda, Automoto Triciclo and Triciclo Perfecta engaged in a thrilling scrimmage.
After the race, champions like Giacomo Agostini (on the speedway with Yamaha TZ750), Freddie Spencer (with Honda NSRV 500 2T), Manuel Poggiali, Loris Capirossi, Pierpaolo Bianchi (with Cadalora’s GP Honda), Pietro Giugler, Carlos Lavado and Piefrancesco Chili (to mention just a few) encountered the crowd of enthusiasts behind the central straight, in the paddock area.
This area hosted several legendary bikes, like the then pioneering Automoto Tricycle 300 and Perfecta Turismo 310, both dating back to 1898, which were the most ancient specimen of the show.
Next, the traditional Great Champions Parade hit the race track: forty world champions – in most cases – on the bike with which they won, once again made the day of ASI Motoshow’s audience, which crowded the bleachers watching their heroes lapping the race track and commemorating the feats and victories of their formidable careers.
Robert Pirsig, author of “Zen and the art of motorbike maintenance” (autobiography of a realistic and metaphoric motorcycle journey across the United States, Ed.) points out the difference between a motorbike and a car: «In a car you sits inside a cabin […] you are a passive onlooker of a landscape going by inside a boring frame. On a bike, there are no such frames. You are really in contact with everything. You are no longer an onlooker, you are within the scene and the feeling is gripping». Motorbikes are just like that: they grant you the freedom of a matchless style in motion. A relationship between man and machine consisting of passion, respect and a good dose of madness: aren’t these the main ingredients of the most enduring stories?
SUICOKE has launched a first collaboration with Stüssy. This collaboration is part of Stüssy’s ‘Summer Trip Fest’, which is comprised of season focuses on a variety of products ín the camouflage influence. The sandals are equipped with a SUICOKE original EVA made footbed. The Morflex sole completes the strong aesthetic of the SUICOKE sandals, adding function and comfort. Its light-weight, shock absorbing qualities were the number one priority during development, and the result is a sole that enhances mobility as a grip.
For the first time at Pitti Uomo 92, Christian Louboutin chose Florence as the stage to present Aurelien, his first model of sneakers to be exclusively available for men. On this occasion, the french designer set up a hard-court bike-pool tournament in the famous and beautiful Santa Maria Novella square with eight participating teams from all over the world for a friendly competition. For each team, 3 of the athletes were outfitted with the new low-top Aurelien sneakers in various colours, made and personalised by florentine companies, a unique manufacture in the Louboutin world and in the footwear range. Each shoe takes two days to makeand the red lined neoprene sock (a reference to the iconic female footwear models) gives the foot absolute comfort and allows the wearer to go sockless for a totally unique fashion statement. The Aurelien model is already available in Louboutin boutiques and on-line.
With this groundbreaking show, devoted to Minor White, one of the most important American photographers of the 20th century, the LOEWE FOUNDATION marks the house’s seventh annual participation in PHotoEspaña and fourth festival entry organized by curator María Millán to raise the international profile of a key artistic figure whose work was instrumental in shaping the aesthetics of postwar photography. As LOEWE’s creative director Jonathan Anderson explains “Minor White’s modernity is a natural fit for the house because his photographs function on various levels. At LOEWE, we believe in multivalence”. For LOEWE’s exhibition, 40 of White’s original prints have travelled to Madrid on a special loan from Howard Greenberg gallery and private collections. They range from early cityscapes to compelling studies of the male body and abstract takes on nature, offering a representative glimpse into White’s expert use of light and composition as means to evoke contemplative states and charged allusive references in his work. White was able to produce an extraordinarily rich spectrum of blacks, whites and grays, while employing close-ups and cropping to express what couldn’t be shown.White was more interested in his art’s symbolic potential than in representing reality. The images, indeed, represented an internal emotional state.
Minor White: metaphors
June 1st, 2017- August 25th, 2017
LOEWE Gallery, Gran Via, 8, Madrid
Martina, Michele, and Tommaso, as well as DJ, Stefania and Emanuele. They just are a few of many Italians who have decided to leave the country where they were born, their homes, their daily lives and the familiar faces around them, for a potentially indeterminate amount of time. Technology is their best friend for working, living and sharing their new lives without having to truly leave everything behind. How is it possible in a society that raises flags, hymns and walls that scores of people keep deciding to move to another meridian? To start a family in another hemisphere? Not for reasons of war and famine (thankfully), but conscious choices, more or less reasonable- with a small dose of the ever important instinct- shared with their comrades, and the fervid need to live well, to build new families and networks and to not settle. It is about refusing to recognize geographic boundaries delineated by the map, dominated by the willingness and ability to adapt. Some make the move in order to achieve a quality of life better than that which they found in Italy, as their great-grandparents had done. Others do so for the insistent curiosity in their character and the ancestral need for discovery, evolution and change. Others still, inspired by the lives of others, one day realise the life they themselves have always wanted to live. Thus the path from destiny to phenomenon to state of mind is actually quite brief and maybe today could be one of the keys to tearing down physical barriers and imaginary boundaries.
TOMMASO – RECORD PRODUCER
Briefly, who are you? I grew up in Lerici, the Gulf of Poets, in La Spezia. It is an amazing place that now I see in all its beauty when- all too rarely- I come back, but which I left at one point in order to pursue music. Music that brought me first to Milan, then to a thousand other places, and now to London.
Where do you live now? I live in London, but, honestly, at I am at home everywhere, or out of place anywhere, depending on the day. Let’s just say if I can learn something or discover something, I am happy.
What does it mean to be far away from home? Today it is much simpler than ten years ago. I’m used to it a bit because the world is much more connected. Living in London is a little too chaotic every now and then but still very exciting.
“Expat” has a connotation of belonging and nationality… I started to feel an immigrant after the outcome of the Brexit, and now we’ll have to see how it goes.
The most interesting aspect of the country where you live? Being in contact with cultures of all kinds that are VERY, very, VERY different. Learning from everything, you are forced to be much more tolerant and understanding.
How long do you plan to stay? A variable duration between three months and three decades. We’ll see where life will lead me.
STEFANIA – TRAVEL AND LIFESTYLE BLOGGER
Briefly, who are you? I’m a full-time travel & lifestyle blogger at EverySteph.com. I am from Bologna, Italy, but last year my boyfriend at the time found a new job in Barcelona and asked me if I wanted to go with him. I am very lucky to have a job that allows me to live anywhere I want in the world as long as I have Wi-Fi so I jumped at the opportunity about 1 year and 3 months ago.
Where do you live now? I am currently working on a cool blogging project in Bucharest, Romania (which is a great city, by the way) but I’m happy to go back to Barcelona next week and hopefully enjoy the warm weather and the beach!
What does it mean to be far away from home? I have been traveling and living abroad in a few different places for years now, so I’m used to living somewhere that feels like home but not completely, if you know what I mean. No matter how many years you live somewhere, how well you know the language, there are always some cultural differences that you’ll be reminded of from time to time. I do get frustrated at times in Spain and wish for a moment that I was back in Italy, but sometimes I feel extremely lucky to be experiencing life in a foreign culture. It opens your mind, it exposes you to new experiences and people, it enriches you in a way that only someone who has lived abroad can understand.
“Expat” has a connotation of belonging and nationality… I am objectively an expat and I have no problem to referring to myself as such, but there are some negative connotations to the term, so I try to be more than just an expat. The expat community sometimes end up being very self-centered and self-righteous, so I try and make the effort to integrate in the place I am as much as possible. I try to meet locals, not just other expats, and to go to places that aren’t mostly made for expats.
The most interesting aspect of the country where you live? The fact that nobody cares about what the other people do and wear, so you can really be yourself.
How long do you plan to stay? I’m planning to stay just for a few more months, then I’ll probably move to Thailand for the winter.
After Kingsman – Secret Service, of 2015, 20th Century Fox presents the sequel Kingsman – The Golden Circle, directed and co-produced by director Matthew Vaughn, as in the first edition. After her personal success in dressing up the film’s interpreters, the famous American costume designer Arianne Phillips, is again part of the crew. The main character, played by Colin Firth, is a sort of 007 secret agent, working for an intelligence agency headquartered in one of Savile Row’s most chic and important tailors, Kingsman. His character is a collection of English elegance, style and aplomb, fascinating and impeccable even in the most challenging situations. Arianne Phillips, in partnernship with the “costume-to-collection” line from the famous male clothing site Mr.Porter, explores new ways of design with a sort of western influence, dressing Channing Tatum, starring along Colin Firth, in a new and particular style; The idea being that it could be shared with today’s young people, who identify with the look of the actors on the screen.
On May 13th, will be inaugurated at Palazzo Mora’s the first exhibition, for the Venice Art Biennale, by Ariela Wertheimer, curated by the Farkash Gallery in Tel Aviv. The exhibition will run until November 26thand it’s titled Jaffa Venice light boxes: it shows various works by the Israeli artist which uses different techniques and materials, always relying on the light – shadow theme, introducing us in an innovative and unique way with works and portraits in light boxes. The significance of the exhibition is a long reflection on the meaning of our lives: everyone has a story, is a character trapped in a small or large prison, from past to the present, and the purpose, for the art of Wertheimer, is to look for a wider sense of living. Born into a prominent family in Israel, the artist began her career in the medical field, and for twelve years she was in the armed forces: a living environment where she took the inspiration and creative techniques for her artistic talent. Mother of five children, when she’s not devoted to art, she volunteering plays in the oncology department at the Rambam Hospital in Haifa. Wertheimer began to exhibit in groups since 1997. The exhibition in Venice is hosted by the European Cultural Center. ®All Rights Reserved
Farfetch inaugurates an exclusive partnership with Gucci to launch Store to Door in 90 minutes and reveals some details about their Store of the Future concept. This partnership will allow customers to shop from a range of Gucci pieces via the Farfetch website and app, and receive their orders in just 90 minutes. The Store to Door in 90 Minutes service will fulfil orders directly from select Gucci stores in the following 10 global cities, across 4 continents: London, New York, Dubai, Los Angeles, Madrid, Miami, Milan, Paris, Sao Paulo and Tokyo. The Store of the Future concept at FarfetchOS, a conference organised for luxury brands and retailers, is presented by Huawei. This idea of the commerce is the final piece in Farfetch’s augmented retail vision to link the online and offline worlds, by using data to enhance the customer journey and drive personalised customer experiences. Store of the Future will tailor technology solutions to each brand, each city and each store, humanising the retail experience, delivering personalisation to customers and empowering the store staff. A BETA version of Store of the Future will be shown at the conference, demonstrating how technology can deliver a significant competitive advantage to retailers and brands. Later this year SOF technologies will be launched in Browns, as well as the flagship Thom Browne store in New York. ®All Rights Reserved farfetch.com gucci.com
Established 5 years ago, Art Basel Hong Kong, the youngest fair under the Basel banner, has definitely grown up. The increased selection of participating galleries as well as more sophisticated artworks on show drew nearly early 80,000 visitors this time. Exhibition openings and parties were packed with jetsetters from all over the world, which flew in to join the ceaseless roller coaster of social events. Significant sales with a strong response from Asian collectors, including those from Korea, Mainland China, Hong Kong and Japan, secured Hong Kong Art Basel position as a powerful outpost on the global art stage.
With a history steeped in trade, and no artistic heritage, it’s hard to imagine a place more hard-wired for commerce than Hong Kong. And while the fair it’s building up its reputation within the conservative art world, the identity of the Hong Kong art scene it’s more and more connected with fashion. This boundary less creative flow is perhaps what makes Art Basel Hong Kong unique, differentiating it from the other art fairs. The action of luxury brands and retailers goes behind simple merchandizing, and aims to give to the public a real insight into the creative world of fashion designers, while creating a real crossover between the two fields.
In this context Joyce Boutique‘s flagship store on Queen’s Road Central gave carte blanche to London’s Gazelli Art House Gallery, which transformed the space of the iconic store through a series of pop-up exhibitions featuring selected artists from Gazelli’s eclectic offering of international talents, including pop artist and fashion designer Philip Colbert, Charlotte Colbert, Mila Askarova among others. Shanghai Tang Mansion got a makeover too, as artist Kirk Cheng has transformed it into a Suzhou-inspired garden via a large floral installation.
Christian Louboutin collaborated with New York-based Australian artist CJ Hendry, as she debuted her first show, ‘Complimentary Colors’, in Asia during Art Basel week. Best known for her iconic monochromatic hyper-realistic pen drawings, the artist used color as a medium for the first time, presenting highly rendered, mesmerizing drawings of thick oil paint in different color ways, paying homage to the iconic Christian Louboutin soles with red highlights. To express the incredibly rich and eclectic creative universe of Alessandro Michele, Gucci has invited Dan Thawley, Editor-in-Chief of A Magazine Curated By, to present a multimedia exhibition. The immersive showcase gave new depth to the content featured in the latest issue of A Magazine, which was curated by Michele, and celebrated the work of photographer and muse Petra Collins, who also has an important section within the magazine. Taking the form of a trilogy, the exhibition premiered in Hong Kong from 22–26 March and will travel to Beijing and Taipei.
Marking the Itch Series of its ‘Fusing Art with Fashion’ project, London shoemaker R. Sanderson showcased its latest Shadow II shoe collection, which was presented alongside a complete portfolio of Andy Warhol’s Shadows series comprising six original and unique screen prints. The Warhol portfolio is number 6 of 10 sets ever to be produced by the revered artist, marking the first time a complete portfolio of Andy Warhol’s Shadows series has been on public display in Hong Kong.
Last but not least, the niche luxury brand Cherevichkiotvichki installed a life-size sculpture within the avant-garde concept store INK in Causeway Bay. VictoriaAndrejeva and the Cherevitchkiotvichki’s team created a giant figure in the shape of a female body by using the fabrics off-cuts from the last collection, hand-stitched together in a beautiful patchwork skin. Andrejeva spent three days in the store giving the final touches to the artwork, giving costumers a glimpse into the artisanal universe of Cherevitchkiotvichki. Titled A Toppled Anatomy the sculpture embodies the idea of primitive femininity, powerful and delicate at once, quintessential to the Cherevichkiotvichki’s brand identity. artbasel.com
®All Rights Reserved
The dynamics of the web are changing the rules of the publishing game, animating a new species of independent magazine that not only is gaining traction, but also has solved the paper versus digital puzzle in a way that surpasses all expectations. In fact, despite the high-speed world of internet consumption, the allure of paper continues to hold its own, as can be seen from the vast and diverse offering of lifestyle publications that cast photography and art direction as the lead players and paper as the blank canvas of full expression to produce a performance of stunning creative impact.
But the greatest challenge faced by the publishing platforms, both new and established, is to deliver increasingly richer interactive content and to engage the reader in a one-to-one relationship. To learn more about this particular publishing story, we spoke with Richard Klein, founder of Surface magazine and now publisher of FourTwoNine, and Maer Roshan, the top journalist appointed to helm the magazine, which debuted in 2013. Founded as an independent endeavour to harness collective power through talks and meetings, the project then morphed into a glossy magazine featuring some of the globe’s top editors, artists and photographers. Every issue of FourTwoNine showcases the latest in fashion, design, entertainment, sport, technology, media, business and politics, shining the spotlight on the thought leaders and innovators who are guiding and influencing contemporary culture.
How did you get into publishing and what led to the launch of Surface?
Richard Klein: My background is in design and art direction. I launched Surface when I was in my early twenties, originally as a gallery in the SOMA district of San Francisco. The idea was to create a social space to spotlight young artists and to bring creative people together to socialize and exchange creative ideas. FourTwoNine is similar in concept but leverages technology and a social network to connect and aggregate people. We organize conversation diary events, cocktail parties and other happenings throughout the United States to which we invite business and industry leaders to give thematic talks. We gave Maer Roshan the support needed to build on his extensive publishing experience (New York Magazine, details, Radar, Talk, Hollywood Reporter) and free editorial reign to take FourTwoNine in edgy new directions.
How did the idea of FourTwoNine come to life?
Richard Klein – Maer Roshan: FourTwoNine started off four years ago as a magazine and social network directed at the gay men, influencers and creative leaders that work and live in America’s major cities. Our current format builds on this important target market while embracing the fact that sexual orientation has changed significantly in the past decade, with the boundaries between gay and straight becoming much looser, especially among the younger generations. Many urban men don’t identify as gay but still share the same irreverent, creative, push-the-envelope approach to life. Moreover, we noticed that some of the magazine’s most enthusiastic fans were straight men and even some women so, although the website and the magazine will both continue to feature some gay content, most of our stories and style coverage will be broad enough to attract a wider audience.
How do you see the future for magazines versus the web?
Maer Roshan: FourTwoNine is designed around the fact that print and online publications have different strengths and metabolisms. The web is ideal for streaming new information as it breaks so the 429.com website gives us a way to dynamically enrich our content while informing readers about many of today’s trending topics in business, politics, culture, finance, style, travel, art and design, music and fashion. The challenge for magazines in the digital age is to offer something that the web cannot replicate. For me it comes down to aesthetics and the senses. Our focal point is photography and art direction. For example, our masthead cites not only some of the world’s top photographers but also some of the most talented emerging lens masters. There is nothing better than curling up and feasting your eyes on a beautifully curated magazine. The magic of a color photo on special paper cannot be appreciated on a screen. There’s something more enduring and special about a magazine that you can hold in your hands. It’s something to treasure and keep, unlike the seemingly ephemeral nature of most web content. In fact, my latest project is a perfumed issue of FourTwoNine in which each story will be infused with a specific fragrance that the reader can actually smell. You can’t do that on the Internet.
From San Francesco to Los Angeles: tell us about the magazine’s new shift in direction
Maer Roshan: FourTwoNine is a national magazine that differs from America’s other publications in that it operates not out of New York but Los Angeles, which gives us a fresh and unique perspective. In recent years the pendulum of culture has swung dramatically from the East Coast to the West, where the obvious points of reference are Hollywood, Silicon Valley in San Francisco and Seattle’s music scene. But other West-coast cities like Portland and San Diego are creating their own political, music, art, fashion and food buzzes too. We want to give these local stories the coverage they deserve but don’t get in most magazines, while continuing our nationwide dialogue.
How will you avoid falling into the trap of gay stereotypes and clichés to, instead, offer a more compelling point of view?
Maer Roshan: I am 100% allergic to clichés and stereotypes and believe the magazine reflects that. The latest issue of FourTwoNine features four guest covers: The Daily Show’s Trevor Noah, the star of Moonlight Ashton Sanders, the iconic filmmaker John Waters, and the world’s first gay superstar Brian Anderson. This to show that being gay is not a question of one-size-fits-all and that our interests and tastes are wide-ranging. Gays live in a vast and variegated universe and different things appeal to different people, so gay issues are not something I feel the magazine needs to obsess about. In fact, rather than offering solely gay content, FourTwoNine builds on the creative sensibilities of the LGBTA community, breaks down boundaries and blends irreverence with style.
What does the future hold in store?
Maer Roshan: We are keen to grow FourTwoNine as a cutting-edge magazine and to make the 429.com website even more dynamic and market responsive, covering the latest news and innovations in technology, entertainment, design, media and politics. Also the success of the events and conferences held across the United States means we will be organizing many more networking opportunities. ®All Rights Reserved
Which features must a suitcase have to be perfect? It must be lightweight, strong and stylish. This is how Samsonite has answered, with an exceptional global campaign, called “The Serious Traveller”, and shot by the famous portrait and fashion photographer Rankin. In this campaign nine international influencers are filmed while they are ironically showing the functionalities of their luggage, that makes their journeys even more confortable. Among the selected influencers, there are the Royal Ballet’s soloist Eric Underwood and the model, presenter, DJ and blogger Charlotte De Carle. Samsonite has met the needs of those who, like them, have to travel a lot, by combining functionality and style: the new collection Curv® mixes the best materials and the most modern technologies with innovative and timeless designs, which assure strength and protection without adding more weight. The careful attention to the details distinguishes also the inside, upholstered with an extra soft fabric and organized in sectors with adjustable strips to maintain all the garments perfectly tidy. MANINTOWN interviewed these two influencers for you.
Which is the most important feature of a suitcase for those who travel a lot, like you do? Considering I’m on the go often, a lightweight suitcase is the most important feature for me.
How did you start dancing? Did you ever imagine it would become your job? I started dancing after forgetting my lines at an acting audition, I saw a few girls doing splits preparing for a dance audition and thought well I’ll have a go at dancing. I had no idea there was a chance I could pursue this as my dream job.. wow!
How is your relationship with fashion? I’ve always taken an interest in fashion, working as a model and the love of great menswear!
Who are your style icons? My Style icons are Sammy Davis jr. and Frank Sinatra
Which passions do you have, other than ballet? I’ve had the opportunity to work in television a few times and that’s a discipline I love and feel quite passionately about.
Do you have a dream or a project that you want to realize? I have a few projects and dreams I’d like to pursue and hopefully they’ll come true, stay tuned to the telly (hint) lol!
Which is the most important feature of a suitcase for those who travel a lot, like you do? I’m not sure I can just pick one to be honest. For frequent travelling there any many factors to be taken into account. I need a suitcase to be durable because we all know airports don’t look after suitcases as well as they could. I need it to be manoeuvrable as the more I don’t have to carry my case the better. I also it need to still look good which is why I love Samsonite. The cases are wonderfully slick, strong and attractive. So it’s an all round natural winner! Got my vote!
What cannot be missed in your suitcase? That would definitely be deodorant. I don’t mind not wearing clothes, having a dirty face or not having my favourite tea but my armpits have to be fresh.
Talking about fashion, who are your style icons? To be honest my mum is my style icon. She doesn’t have a huge budget but always manages to look classy and expensive. She also loves taking risks which is admirable. Her PVC trousers are an absolute treat!
You seem a very cheerful person, what is your tip to always see the silver linings in life? Life is too short. You don’t need to worry about what other people think or do. Do what you enjoy, what makes you happy because at the end of the day life is a gift so focus on the present
Do you have a dream or a project that you want to realize? To be honest my dream has always been to bring people joy and a small distraction from everyday life. So to work with Rankin on this shoot was amazing because I love all the creativity and fun he puts into his shoots. So maybe to continue what I am doing but on a grander scale would be the end goal for me. Take a leaf out of his book and go hard or go home!
A few meters from two luxury shopping streets in Milan, Corso Como and Corso Garibaldi, the Freitag store, famous Swiss brand for bags made of recycled truck tarpaulins, will be the first in Italy and will feature even for the high aesthetic impact of the location that in front of the Giangiacomo Feltrinelli foundation, is placed exactly at the crossroads of trade and culture. The store, located in a typical industrial building of the nineteenth century, with granite pillars and terracotta archway, will present 1500 unique pieces amor bags and iconic accessories of the brand, also the biodegradable F-Abric collection entirely produced in Europe with recycled materials and fabrics, made from flax and hemp fibers, yarns even in some Milanese areas. Back to basics, as they say. For the occasion, MANINTOWN met Daniel and Markus Freitag, the two brothers founders of the brand.
So, the first Italian store. How did you choose this location? It’s been a long and well thought out research. Milan is an electrifying mix, a unique and continuous walkway of ideas, designers, stimuli. We wanted an easy to reach store, both for tourists and also for people living in the city, a place to create some partnership and maybe exhibiting installation, and finally we wanted a space that was close to “traceable” places, museums or things of cultural interest and architecture, just as the Feltrinelli Foundation.
Who are your Italian customers?
Creative, designers, architects, even very young people. We really like the idea that in a place so attached to fashion etiquette par excellence, like Italy, our anti-statement idea, so to speak, our not so mainstream concept of fashion, have been appreciated a lot in these years.
Any plans to propose something limited edition for the Italian grand opening or not?
It could be, but we have not planned anything. First of all we want to bring the entire collection of naturally 100 % compostable. products and accessories as in the rest of the stores in the world. Later, perhaps, given the enormous curiosity and creative spirit that revolves around Milan we will pull out something (they both laugh n.d.r).
What about the materials you use, we know that there are new ideas on which you are focusing.
We started working with recycled truck tarpaulins in the 90s, and today we want to experiment, to explore new territories. The basic idea is based on sustainability and recycling, a trendmark that defines us forever.
Our identity is “devoted” to the ethic and qualitative to the materials we use, methods of processing, production and industrial cycle. We design and manufacture only models of accessories and clothes that we wear ourselves or our team. They are prototypes, often, that require a large investment of energy and money to be developed; we really love Eastern countries because the price of our items there is perceived with no inferences of any kind, they know what it takes to fully realize a bag or an item. To do it all yourself in a sustainable way.
What is the creative process of your work?
We frequently depart from the problems, dilemmas. We did very long brainstorming with our team – the part of collaboration is everything in our company – we talk about the fitting, what is wrong, we raise objections and from there we draw inspiration for new projects, alternatives. We often end up to get very far from the starting point but this is an integral part of the trip, isn’t it? The essential thing for us is to plan our energy, knowing how and where spend it, for example, for the next three weeks. The commitment is rewarding, altghough it is always optimized.
Do you take a lot of work on the mono-material of the trucks tarpaulins? Not really, a lot less than what we would do. The fact is, especially when it is very worn, that this material can undergo just little and few change, we can not even print it. We will plan to do more, to dare, but it is not always possible. And this is another reason why we want to try and explore other universes stylistic and with the material.
Where does the inspiration for your project come from?
We would say from far away, even from the first trips to India, we were so young. We saw all these people who collected trash from the street and turn it into other. Then we took our streets, in graphic design, art, visual, and we realized how many energy are wasted in that professiona business sectors, today. And Freitag was born just then, along with the awareness to create something that looked to resources and it was really useful and durable. We thought about bike messenger and those who cycled in Zurich, from north to south, to go to work. In time it came the idea of trucks tarpaulins, the first prototypes we did in San Francisco and New York, the mecca for bicycle messenger and gradually, over time and so much effort, the results came. Milan store, in a few days, is another rewarding crowning of our journey.
What is your greatest ambition also in ideal terms regarding to recycling and sustainable living?Instinctively we would say hotels and condos. Design a series of objects and products to live in hotels that make the residence experience itself a kind of experiential path on how and what we could do to be comfortable without producing trash or waste good resources. However, even the biking industry, and accessories to better carry their belongings. We’d like a lot to investigate that area, maybe because we love biking and we know all the functional and practical issues that sometimes can happen.
FREITAG STORE MILANO
Viale Pasubio 8, 20154 Milano
Trussardi presents the “Trussardi Elegance” collection for autumn/winter 2017/18, realized in a special partnership with Lardini, a brand that tailors elegant suiting for men. Both of them prominent exponents of “Made in Italy”, they decided to marry Trussardi’s flair with the sartorial tradition of Lardini, from the Marche region. The inspiration comes from the idea of a contemporary elegance, combining three-dimensional structures with those colours typically loved by more traditional gentlemen. The items are infused with warm notes of bordeaux and beige, culminating with touches of black and white. The collection was created for a man who is attentive to his figure, clothes and colours. ®All Rights Reserved trussardi.com