Rosa Chemical, (musical) bipolarity elevated to an art form

Among the artists competing at the next Sanremo Festival, from 7 to 11 February 2023, is – for the first time – Rosa Chemical. Rapper with an iconoclastic verve, imposed by strokes of syncopated sounds and abrasive lyrics, channelled into tracks with millions of streams such as the gold disc Polka, Britney, London and TikTok (together with Radical). But he is also a chameleonic performer, determined to challenge the prevailing machismo – according to him – in Italian music with flamboyant looks, including discoloration, glitter and marked make-up, a (former) Gucci model, a skilful polemicist (he has attacked ‘political correctness’, as it merely bans certain words or flaunts support for the LGBT cause, deluding itself into believing it is curbing homophobia), intent, however, on confronting the general public, recently reached thanks to his duet with Tananai on the stage of Sanremo 72, on the night of the covers.

Rosa Chemical, nom de plume of Manuel Franco Rocati, is all of that and more, and so it is rather complicated to account for his many facets, both artistic and personal; we have tried, asking a few questions to the 24-year-old singer, originally from Grugliasco, from Turin area, who described himself, in an interview with Repubblica, as ‘a sort of an alien’.

Rosa Chemical 2022
Bodysuit Paolo Nocilla, tracksuit Antonio Marras, hat Gianmarco Bersani

“I think I’m one of the few in Italy who does what he wants, without worrying about the judgement of the public and colleagues”

An album (with an added deluxe edition was later added), an EP, featuring – among others – Gué Pequeno, Ernia, Tananai, Gianna Nannini, a series of viral hits on Spotify and YouTube… A song, or more than one, to which you are particularly attached, which you think fully expresses your artistic signature.

Definitely Boheme, written for a person who does not know she is the protagonist and will never find out, who made me experience intense emotions. There never was a story between us, but the feelings I felt inspired the right words to write one of the most beautiful songs of my career so far. It is also the first song I worked on with Bdope after a few nights of transgression and rock’n’roll. I have a pleasant memory of that track.

Rosa Chemical Sanremo
Total look Dolce&Gabbana, earrings Radà, handpiece Myril Jewels, boots Sonora

An alien (like the one in your single) lands in Italy and encounters Rosa Chemical: how would you describe your music to him?

It’s too difficult to describe my music without shooting myself in the foot, my art contains a lot of bipolarity; there are those who call it versatile and those who say I do everything, but I think I’m one of the few in Italy who does what he wants, without worrying about the judgement of the public and colleagues.

In some interviews, you have railed against the machismo that the rap scene is still imbued with and the hypocrisy of political correctness. From these points of view, what is the state of the art of the Italian music scene in 2022?

Critical, nothing has changed since the last interview where I spoke about it. Fortunately, I’m back to save the country once again.

“Fashion has always been my obsession, another possibility, besides art and music, to tell people who look at me that I have style, that I am different”

You have posed and walked the runway for Gucci, collaborated with Danilo Paura, you are a ‘super fan of handbags’ and prefer ‘flashy accessories’. What is your relationship with fashion, in the broadest sense of the word?

Fashion has always been my obsession, another possibility, besides art and music, to tell people who look at me that I have style, that I am different. I’ve always tried to take the rules and break them to my heart’s content, ever since the days when I felt like gabber and looked for the most stylish Australian blouses, or, in my metal phase, I wanted the longest studs, the coolest trench coats, the blackest eyeshadows; now I go from moments of feeling feminine, and so I look for a Valentino bag or a Prada jacket, to others when I feel more masculine and wear ‘full’ Saint Laurent or go for the Maison Margiela look. I am a lover of everything that brings innovation.

Rosa Chemical canzoni
Jacket, trousers and earrings Yezael by Angelo Cruciani, hat Borsalino, necklace Radà, shoes Anja Zecevic

What can we expect in the future from an artist who has made eclecticism, of esthetic funambulism (also) his trademark?

I have always advised people not to expect anything from me, as I only do what I feel like, really. All I can tell you is that lately, I’ve been feeling very shiny! 😉

Rosa Chemical Polka
Total look Roberto Cavalli, earrings Radà, boots stylist’s archive

Rosa Chemical Instagram
Total look Chicken Turtle, shoes Giuseppe Zanotti

Credits

Talent Rosa Chemical

Editor in Chief Federico Poletti

Text Marco Marini

Photographer Kali Yuga

Stylist Simone Folli

Ph. assistants Letizia Montanari, Matia Chiodo

Stylist assistants Nadia Mistri, Melania Musci

Grooming Mara Bottoni

Opening image: Rosa Chemical wears total look Dolce&Gabbana, earrings Radà, handpiece Myril Jewels, boots Sonora

Actor Joshua Sasse shares his time between sets, poetry and environmentalism

Actor, writer, poet: this is how Joshua Sasse introduces himself on Instagram. Since yesterday, Fox viewers can see him in “Monarch”, a musical drama about the  Roman family, at the head of a country music empire ruled by the matriarch Dottie (the wonderful Susan Sarandon), around who the other characters – including ‘his’ alter ego, Luke – spin around. These three nouns, indeed, describe well the many activities to which the 34-year-old green-eyed Londoner devotes himself. He’s always smiling and helpful, despite a great number of commitments as Stachanov.

Joshua Sasse
Joshua Sasse, ph. by Kevin Scanlon

His CV is quite different from the ‘classic’ one of the actor committed to the sacred fire for art: brought up in Nepal, he enlisted as an officer in the British army but, moved by the possibility of bringing different characters to life that is inherent to acting, he gave it all up to attend Hurtwood House and then the courses of the Cygnet Theatre in Exeter, touring with companies in the UK and Europe before moving to USA in search of a breakthrough. This gave him the leading role in the musical series “Galavant”, other roles in TV shows (“Rogue”, “No Tomorrow”) and films like “Frankenstein’s Army”.

In the meantime, Joshua satisfied his passion for literature by writing two novels, a travel/remedial book and some collections of poetry (he has a penchant for it, in fact he launched the podcast “The Poet’s Voice”) and carrying out several entrepreneurial projects, like working in a vintage car garage, running a café in Australia and launching Tusk & Mane Safaris. Last but not least, his commitment to environmentalism, which will soon take him to Antarctica to record the dramatic consequences of melting glaciers. Sasse is determined to support the causes close to his own heart because “I have children and I don’t want to leave the planet to them worse off than I found it”.

“This show was finally getting me to stick my teeth into good dramatic writing with really talented actors and directors”

Monarch series
The cast of “Monarch” (ph. ©Fox)

“Monarch” will debut in September, how do you feel on the eve of a long-awaited series with a stellar cast, including Oscar winner Susan Sarandon? Is there any specific anecdote or memory from the set that you would like to share with our readers?

It’s been over a year since we started filming so we’re all really excited to share this with everyone. Anecdotally, I’m not sure if i can come with anything pithy. This show was finally getting me to stick my teeth into good dramatic writing with really talented actors and directors. The work that Susan (ed: Sarandon) and I did together is just a life highlight for me and she’s now one of my dear friends.
There are just a lot of really special people in this cast and we bonded together in such a familial way. The casting team at Fox did a magnificent job I think – me and Anna (ed: Friel, the actress who plays Luke’s sister Nicolette “Nicky” Roman) would laugh because we look so similar – but the family dynamic is so honest and real, it was an amazing shoot.

Susan Sarandon Monarch
Joshua Sasse on the set with Susan Sarandon (ph. from @joshuasasse)

What projects are you currently involved in?

Do children count as a project? With my other projects last year I was away filming for nearly 12 months by the time “Monarch” finished so I’m just relishing being with my wife and children. We live in Australia and it’s lovely to be able to just disappear for a while, necessary I think.

“There was a time when it wasn’t unusual for people have lots of strings to their bow”

Actor, poet (during the pandemic you launched the podcast “The Poet’s Voice”, you are working on the book “The Poetry Orchard”), activist, entrepreneur (you co-founded Tusk & Mane Safaris, which organise safaris to discover – and protect – the wonderful nature of the African continent), tireless adventurer. Is there a common thread that holds all these activities and interests together?

There was a time when it wasn’t unusual for people have lots of strings to their bow – and I’ve always felt there’s no point in having heroes if you’re not going to actively pursue emulation. I grew up really high in a remote part of the Himalaya’s and my godfather is a polar explorer and my father was a poet so I think I’m just continuing to fly the flag.
I love the outdoors, the really remote outdoors; I find a lot of peace there, so I think that’s the draw for me. As concerns poetry, I’ve always felt it to be my form of expression.

Joshua Sasse actor
Joshua Sasse, ph. by Kevin Scanlon

“Poetry is a way to explain our vision of life, and that is what being a human is all about”

Tell us about your love for poetry: when was it born, how and why? What do you like most about this literary genre?

As I mentioned, my father was a poet. He died when I was very young so as I got older I think discovering poetry was a way to connect with who he was.
I went to drama school at age 15 and started working pretty young and I wasn’t really into music – all I ever listen to is Van Morisson – and so poetry filled that adolescent gap. There’s a line of Byron that goes “to mingle with the universe and feel, what I could ne’er express, yet cannot all conceal”; there is this mystic puzzle in life that we have to try to translate the emotions we feel when experiencing the world onto the page and with other people and what’s so special about poetry is its structure – you have to be concise, imagine an opera only lasting 30 seconds!

Paul Valéry once said that “structure stops the poem from saying everything” and in that, one has to rely on a profound honesty and clarity but also with a deep knowledge of language. It’s a way to explain our vision of life and, to me, that is what being a human is all about.

Galavant actor

“To combat global warming and bio-diversity are synonymous with our survival”

You follow and support many environmental causes (from the melting glaciers to the deforestation for which – also – some fashion brands are unfortunately responsible, from the fight against poaching to the preservation of the wildlife all over the world), is there one – or more than one – that is particularly dear to you, that you think we have to divulge and tackle immediately?

To combat global warming and bio-diversity are synonymous with our survival so… I have children and I don’t want to leave the planet to them worse off than I found it.
The poaching in Africa has been worse in the last 10 years than the previous 30 which is staggering; in the national park where our company operates, 12,000 elephants have been killed in the last 10 years, in a area seven times smaller than Rhode Island; it’s truly shocking. But again, in Antarctica, where my godfather has a base, the ice around the mainland is melting at the most terrifying rate. I think it’s just all about education: if the general public understand what’s going on, then it can translate to governmental change.

What do you think – and hope – is in Joshua Sasse’s future?

If Paolo Sorrentino or Guillermo Del Toro could call me over breakfast and offer me a role that’d be just well.

Joshua Sasse Instagram

Opening image: Joshua Sasse photographed by Kevin Scanlon

Ryan Cooper, enthusiasm and dedication at work and in life

New York-based model and actor, Ryan Cooper radiates energy. Always with a smile on his face, beard stubble, sculpted muscles (this is shown in the Manintown editorial, rich in sensuality) suggesting a scrupulous devotion to working out (he launched the wellness program that bears his name in 2019), he will participate in the upcoming dramedy “You Are Not Alone”, after several roles in series and films such as “Rough Night”, “Eye Candy”, “Confess”, and many jobs between men’s magazines and relevant brands, especially in the United States (A|X Armani Exchange and Boss, to name a few). However, his life was far from the bright lights of New York a few years ago.

Ryan Cooper
All in Motion sunglasses Target, 18K yellow gold Ball & Wire necklace, sterling silver/18K yellow gold mixed metal necklace and 18K yellow gold bracelet Title of Work, shirt and swim shorts Gemini

Born 36 years ago in Papua New Guinea to missionary parents, he was an ordinary man working in the construction industry. In 2008, as soon as he landed on the East Coast, he had the great opportunity to work for the DKNY Jeans Spring/Summer 2008 campaign with the top model Behati Prinsloo. Ryan has rapidly gone from modelling to TV or film sets ever since, gratified because “every role leaves me with new skills or something more about myself, which is all you could wish for”, and equally pleased about his modelling job as it helps him “feel comfortable on film”.

“Each role teaches me a new skill set or something about myself which is all I can wish for”

Ryan Cooper model
18K yellow gold Ball & Wire necklace, sterling silver/18K yellow gold mixed metal necklace, 18K yellow gold bracelet and 18K yellow gold solid bar with ruby bracelet Title of Work, trunks R.Swiader, sneakers All Star Classic Converse

As reported by the website Deadline, you will be featured in the film “You Are Not Alone” and you will begin filming in Texas soon. What can you reveal about this project?

This is a beautiful true story of writer Cindy McCreery’s experience with her brother as she cared for him during his cancer and bladder removal surgeries. I will be working opposite Jasmine Batchelor (“The Surrogate”) and director Andrew Shea.
This feels like one of the most challenging roles to date as it means honoring a real human experience but also keeping myself fully in the story. There is a lot of physical pain and awkwardness to this movie but the underlying arch is a family coming together to heal parts of its past during a traumatic time for my character AJ. I can’t wait for the world to see it.

Ryan Cooper actor
Hydro boost gel moisturizer Cardon, 18K yellow gold Ball & Wire necklace, sterling silver/18K yellow gold mixed metal necklace, 18K yellow gold bracelet and 18K yellow gold bracelet Title of Work, trunks R.Swiader, sneakers All Star Classic Converse

You made your big screen debut in the comedy “Rough Night” (2017) with a first-rate female cast (Scarlett Johansson, Zoë Kravitz, Demi Moore, Jillian Bell). What are your memories of the set?

Working with such wonderful stars was incredible. I got to experience first hand how they are human beings before actors and learned so much from them. Scarlett was so inviting to play in the scenes, Jillian was so encouraging and Kate McKinnon was one of the kindest co-stars ever.

Ryan Cooper fashion
De Los Santos Eau de Parfum Byredo, 18K yellow gold Ball & Wire necklace, sterling silver/18K yellow gold mixed metal necklace, 18K yellow gold bracelet and 18K yellow gold bracelet Title of Work, tank top and pants R.Swiader

“We are all humans struggling with things that are real for us”

Are there any roles or genres you haven’t been offered so far and you would like to play?

I’ve been fortunate to play villains and heroes, sing as a rock star and then torture people. I find it really fun getting to dabble in the spectrum of characters.
I am loving these really truthful heartfelt movies I’ve been able to work on and will be producing more. The world needs movies that change us and help us to think after we walk out of the theater. But I’d really love to do something with more stunts and maybe dancing (my current ability is alone in the living room). Each role teaches me a new skill set or something about myself which is all I can wish for.

Ryan Cooper adv
De Los Santos Eau de Parfum Byredo, 18K yellow gold Ball & Wire necklace, sterling silver/18K yellow gold mixed metal necklace, 18K yellow gold bracelets and 18K solid bar yellow gold/ruby bracelet Title of Work,  kimono and shorts Gemini

As a fitness enthusiast, you channel your passion into the “CooperFit” program which is dedicated to wellness as a whole, from working out to meditation. What are your thoughts about it?

CooperFit was built after observation and working closely with clients and realizing that our physical barriers or goal neglection is directly related to our mental wellbeing. I love helping someone lose weight or put on muscle, but if I can help a relationship to be more peaceful, or support a life goal being achieved, that can be even more rewarding for a client in the long term. My tagline “Heart and health” is because they are intertwined and influence each other greatly.

Cooperfit
Hydro boost gel moisturizer Cardon, De Los Santos Eau de Parfum Byredo, 18K yellow gold Ball & Wire necklace, sterling silver/18K yellow gold mixed metal necklace, 18K yellow gold bracelets and 18K solid bar yellow gold/ruby bracelet Title of Work, silk shirt Musika

“I remember working with Peter Lindbergh and he just had the calmest kind way of getting the shot there was no drama just peace”

Before and while acting, you worked at the highest level as a model, debuting in a campaign for DKNY Jeans in 2008 and then appearing in editorials and ads of major fashion labels and magazines (including A|X Armani Exchange, Trussardi, Boss, Esquire, L’Officiel Hommes). Is there any experience, among those mentioned or not, that has marked you for a particular reason?

The fashion industry was so foreign to me when I entered it. I was a builder by trade and hard work was easy for me so fashion felt very easy in terms of physical labor. I think the hardest thing in modeling was all the travel and loneliness of being on the road. I feel very privileged that I got to fly to nice locations and shoot, or meet really artistic people. But as a whole it’s only grounded my understanding that we are all humans struggling with things that are real for us, it doesn’t matter the industry. And we have a choice to engage in and grow or hide from and others. There is always an egoic, kind, combative or collaborative way to approach any job or person or the way we see ourselves.

Being in front of the lens as a model has helped me feel comfortable on film. Likewise, being in film has given me more appreciation for the times I get to work in fashion. I feel life is all about learning from one and feeding it into all aspects of life. I remember working with Peter Lindbergh and he just had the calmest kind way of getting the shot there was no drama just peace, that really made me want to pass that feeling forward to others I work with.

Ryan Cooper magazine
Hydro boost gel moisturizer Cardon, De Los Santos Eau de Parfum Byredo, 18K yellow gold Ball & Wire necklace and sterling silver/18K yellow gold mixed metal necklace Title of Work, long johns Calvin Klein

What are you currently working on? What do you wish for the future in your professional and personal life?

Currently I will be filming until the end of July on “You are not Alone”. Then I hope to have a little holiday with my daughter.
I’m also producing a few other projects in various stages of development and I always enjoy working with my one-to-one clients in the CooperFit program which I can do remotely. 

Ryan Cooper filmography
The One Eau du Parfum fragrance Dolce&Gabbana,18K yellow gold Ball & Wire necklace, sterling silver/18K yellow gold mixed metal necklace, 18K yellow gold bracelets and 18K solid bar yellow gold/ruby bracelet, Title of Work, skirt, belt and shoes Dolce&Gabbana

Ryan Cooper series
De Los Santos Eau de Parfum Byredo, 18K yellow gold Ball & Wire necklace, sterling silver/18K yellow gold mixed metal necklace, 18K yellow gold bracelet, 18K yellow gold  bracelet, 18K white gold/18K rose gold mixed metal ring, 18K solid yellow gold ring Title of Work, long johns Calvin Klein

Ryan Cooper films
De Los Santos Eau de Parfum Byredo, 18K yellow gold Ball & Wire necklace, sterling silver/18K yellow gold mixed metal necklace, 18K yellow gold bracelet, 18K yellow gold  bracelet, 18K white gold/18K rose gold mixed metal ring, 18K solid yellow gold ring Title of Work, kimono Gemini, swimmers R.Swiader

Ryan Cooper Instagram
All in Motion sunglasses Target, 18K yellow gold Ball & Wire necklace, sterling silver/18K yellow gold mixed metal necklace and 18K yellow gold bracelet Title of Work, shirt Gemini

Credits

Talent Ryan Cooper 

Photographer Dean Isidro

Art Director Paul Lamb

Stylist Gregory Wein

Stylist assistant Brianna Klouda

Grooming Michael Moreno

Photo retouch Jay Arora

Project coordinator Giorgio Ammirabile

Opening image: hydro boost gel moisturizer Cardon, ‘De Los Santos’ Eau de Parfum Byredo, 18K yellow gold Ball & Wire necklace, sterling silver/18K yellow gold mixed metal necklace, 18K yellow gold bracelets and 18K solid bar yellow gold/ruby bracelet Title of Work, silk shirt Musika

A new international face of Italian cinema: Giuseppe Futia

With bright green eyes and the physique du rôle of a model, the 25-year-old actor Giuseppe Futia turned to acting after a solid career in the fashion world (he has appeared in ads for Pepe Jeans, Kappa, Pull&Bear) and moved to Los Angeles in 2017 to attend the prestigious Stella Adler Academy.

Sweater Federico Cina, trousers stylist’s archive

The right opportunity (“It all seemed like a miracle” he recalls) as Tommaso in “Ancora più bello” (2021) came about while he was in the U.S. We will see him soon in “Backstage – Dietro le quinte”, a film about nine (aspiring) actors who seek to act in a play. To achieve their goal they will have to prove their own artistic skills. He describes it as “an intense experience” which required “two months rehearsing, dancing and singing”.

Giuseppe Futia Instagram
Total look Federico Cina, shoes Bally

Giuseppe Futia Ancora piu bello
Total look Dsquared2

Giuseppe Futia actor
Total look Dsquared2

Giuseppe Futia model
Total look Dsquared2


Credits

Talent Giuseppe Futia

Editor in Chief Federico Poletti

Text Marco Marini

Photographer Davide Musto

Stylist Alfredo Fabrizio

Photographer assistants Valentina Ciampaglia, Riccardo Albanese

Stylist assistant Chiara Polci

Grooming Eleonora Mantovani @simonebelliagency

Location Hotel American Palace Eur

Opening image: sweater Federico Cina, trousers stylist’s archive

A new musical project: chiamamifaro

A warm and enveloping voice, a sweet smile and a timbre without equals: Angelica Gori, the daughter of Cristina Parodi and Giorgio Gori, has amply demonstrated that she has all the right cards to become an artist, and can easily shake off the annoying label of “child of”.

Chiamamifaro music
Dress Oblique Creations, choker Absidem, earring Barbara Biffoli

On social networks, especially Instragram, Angelica is so popular that she’s also known by her pseudonym Gispia, a nickname given to her by her family which she has remained quite fond of. “Addio sul serio” is her new video, which accompanies the single released last December by Columbia Records/Nigiri. “Pioggia di CBD “ is her new single.

Chiamamifaro songs
Dress Beatrice .B, earring and bracelet Barbara Biffoli, choker and rings Invaerso, necklace Ami Mops

Chiamamifaro ep
Jacket Nolita, dress Gianluca Capannolo, necklaces Ami Mops, sandals Kallisté

Chiamamifaro album
Choker Absidem, necklace Barbara Biffoli, top and pants Silvian Heach, shirt Martino Midali, sandals Bruno Bordese

Credits

Talent Chiamamifaro

Editor in Chief Federico Poletti

Text Marco Marini

Photographer Marco D’Amico

Fashion editor Valentina Serra

Make-up Giorgia Palvarini @simonebelliagency

Hair stylist Giacomo Marazzi

Location Giuliano Cairoli Garden (Socco di Fino Mornasco, CO)

Opening image: dress Oblique Creations, choker Absidem, earring Barbara Biffoli

From DJ to modelling: the other side of Andrea Damante

As a model, influencer (his Instagram profile counts 2.4 million followers) and television personality known for having participated in programs with a large following, Andrea Damante has long been focused on his career as a DJ and music producer.

Andrea Damante dj
T-shirt Gaëlle Paris

In 2017 his first single, “Follow my Pamp”, quickly climbed the rankings, and since then he has released a series of hits with millions of views (“Forever”, “Think About”, “Understatement Pt.1” and the most recent “All My Love” released last December). He’s perfectly at home behind the console, as is clear by the tours that have brought him to DJ in popular national and international clubs (from Fabrique in Milan to Cavo Paradiso in Mykonos, up to Pacha in Ibiza). He is also responsible for the broadcast show “Swipe Up” on Radio 105 with a selection of dance tracks aired every Saturday night.

Andrea Damante songs
Tapered cargo pants Dockers, necklace stylist’s archive

Andrea Damante Instagram
Nail textile jacket Gaëlle Paris, necklace stylist’s archive

Credits

Talent Andrea Damante

Editor in Chief Federico Poletti

Text Marco Marini

Photographer Davide Musto

Stylist Alfredo Fabrizio

Ph. assistants Riccardo Albanese

Stylist assistant Federica Mele

Hair & make-up Eleonora Bianucci

Location Sheraton Milan San Siro

Opening image: T-shirt Gaëlle Paris

Aka 7even, rising star of the Italian urban-pop scene:

7 is a number with numerous, particularly important meanings for Luca Marzano, a.k.a. Aka 7even, a 21-year-old from Campania among the rising stars of the Italian urban- pop scene. Indeed, the number refers to a painful episode in his past – the week he spent in a coma due to encephalitis when he was seven – which he managed to turn into an element of strength and hope. Not so coincidentally, his autobiography that came out last year is titled “7 vite“.

Aka7even pop
Jacket Moschino

In short, he’s a multi-faceted artist who has managed to convey his desire for redemption into music: admitted to the final stage of Amici in 2020, it was precisely during the talent show that he recorded his first hit, “Mi manchi“. After the end of the TV show, Aka 7even published his self-titled album which included the song “Loca“, a triple platinum-certified smash hit that also has a Spanish version. Then 2021 was an annus mirabilis for the singer-songwriter: he won the “Best Italian Act” Award at the MTV EMAs, and was selected for the 2022 edition of the Sanremo Festival, where he participated with the song “Perfetta così“.

His main influences include Bruno Mars, Justin Bieber and The Weeknd, but his signature style is actually quite personal (he defines his music as “versatile, with strong American influences on a topline and production level”), the result of his “wandering among different genres and styles”.

Aka7even singer
Tank and trousers Yezael by Angelo Cruciani, jacket Christopher Raxxy, shoes Acupuncture

Aka7even songs
Total look Versace Jeans Couture, necklace Radà

Credits

Talent Aka 7even

Editor in Chief Federico Poletti

Text Marco Marini

Photographer Filippo Thiella

Stylist Simone Folli

Photographer assistant Andrea Lenzi

Stylist assistant Nadia Mistri

Grooming Cecilia Olmedi

Opening image: jacket Moschino

Charisma meets talent: the rise of Giacomo Ferrara

Born in 1990 and originally from Abruzzo, Giacomo Ferrara is one of the most talented and charismatic actors of his generation. He became known – and loved – as the gangster Alberto “Spadino” Anacleti, one of major characters of the film “Suburra“, and above all for the first three seasons of the successful TV show of the same name. Speaking of Spadino, he says, “I will always carry him with me, he has become part of Italian pop culture and this is confirmed in what people write me, from how they show their affection they feel for him”.

Giacomo Ferrara actor
Total look 424

He took part among others in Netflix series “Suburra”, “Il permesso – 48 ore fuori”, “Guarda in alto”, “Ghiaccio”

Before his popularity thanks to the Netflix series (“A wonderful parenthesis on my journey, which began in 2015 and ended last year”), he had already proved his skills with the role of Angelo in “Il permesso – 48 ore fuori“, which earned him the Guglielmo Biraghi Award at the Nastri D’Argento 2017 edition.

He also took part in the fairy- tale film “Guarda in alto” (where Teco experiences surreal adventures on the rooftops of Rome), the fantasy film “Non mi uccidere“, the Sky miniseries “Alfredino – Una storia italiana” and most recently “Ghiaccio“, the debut film by the singer and songwriter Fabrizio Moro (in tandem with Alessio De Leonardis) where he depicts a young man from the suburbs seeking redemption from a troubled life, to say the least, in boxing. In his own words, it is “A love story in which I play Giorgio, an extremely introverted boy always messing up. This is where the coach Massimo (Vinicio Marchioni, an extraordinary partner in the adventure) comes in and tries to bring him back to a better path through sport”.

Giacomo Ferrara cinema
Total look Dior

Giacomo Ferrara style
Shirt Gucci

He “Enjoys working on a role with his whole self, completely identifying with it”

To prepare for the part, he had to undergo intense training because “Our challenge was to make the boxing scenes believable, so I endured very demanding sessions. I trained nine times a week, I gained muscle and followed a strict diet”.
So far we have mentioned different stories and genres, yet his visceral and sometimes “extreme” acting stands out in the well- known Spadino (a borderline criminal torn by conflicting feelings, a daily life of violence and oppression, repressed sexuality and the obsession to get revenge on a family that only considers him a hothead) to the peculiar Ago, a drug addict with pink hair and a friend to the protagonist in Non mi uccidere. Indeed, Giacomo “Enjoys working on a role with his whole self, completely identifying with it”, but he points out that, “regardless of how charismatic or ‘strange’ a character might be, it is essential to find stories that have a reason to be told, that go straight to the heart, just like Ghiaccio”.

Giacomo Ferrara movies and tv shows
Suit Çanaku

Giacomo Ferrara Ghiaccio
Total look Valentino

Total look Andrea Pompilio

Giacomo Ferrara Amazon prime
Shirt Magliano, shoes Giuseppe Zanotti, pants stylist’s archive

Credits

Talent Giacomo Ferrara

Editor in Chief Federico Poletti

Photographer Davide Musto

Stylist Alfredo Fabrizio

Photographer assistant Valentina Ciampaglia

Stylist assistant Chiara Polci

Hair Alessandro Rocchi @simonebelliagency

Make-up Charlotte Hardy @simonebelliagency

Location Coho Loft Roma

Opening image: total look 424

Thomás de Lucca by Anthony Pomes – Fashion Editorial

Anthony Pomes, the French photographer we had the chance to meet recently, has exclusively immortalized Thomás de Lucca for us, in déshabillé on a terrace flooded with light in Milan, where the Brazilian model moved not long ago.
Powerful and yet delicate pictures, that underline the modus operandi of an author who, as he revealed us, searches for sensitivity and uniqueness in every portrait.

We had the opportunity to ask Thomás a few questions.

Thomas de Lucca male model
Trousers Zara

I start with the shooting by Anthony Pomes. The pictures reveal a rather relaxed and spontaneous atmosphere on a sunny terrace, isn’t it? How was it like working with Anthony?

I felt very much at ease with Anthony. He’s very talented and knows how to guide a model during the photo shoot. To he honest, I thought I’d be a little rusty since I haven’t been focusing on other things at the moment and not doing much of modelling. But everything went pretty smoothly with him.

Tell us something about yourself: where you are from, how long you’ve been modelling, what your interests are beyond work…

I’m from the south of Brazil and I’ve been modelling for almost 9 years. Everything started in 2013 when I went to China for work, it did help me to grow up as a model, and to be here today represented by one best agencies in Milan. 
I also do marketing apart from modeling. I’ve been doing that since last year, and that is where I’ve been spending much of my time and efforts recently, although my passion has always been modeling and always will be. When I have spare time, I like going to the gym, doing yoga and meditation –  if possible I like to practice the two latter every day. I love spending time with my boyfriend and friends, and watching horror or sci-fi movies.

You are Brazilian but you live in Milan for work. What were your first impressions? What do you love most (and least) about living here?

Milan is great, very international and easy to get around, but I have to confess that I’m still struggling with the language as “il mio italiano non é molto buono” (this is literally the only sentence I know how to say without using Google Translator).
What I love most are cappuccino and pizza. On the other side, living in Milan can be very pricey, so that part isn’t that funny.

If I say style, what do you think of?

David Gandy, he’s a reference in the male model industry for me, and I love how he styles himself according to his age and still looks fashionable and attractive.

What brands or designers do you aspire to work for? 

I’d would love to walk for Dolce&Gabbana and Giorgio Armani since they have inspired me when I first started modeling.

Where do you see yourself in ten years?

In ten years’ time, I want to be a successful coach of fashion models traveling the world and giving lectures on how to think beyond their dream job, without giving up on it but using that passion in their favour.
I’d like to encourage all models to not give up on their careers so easily (I know it can be very tough to listen to so many “no” sometimes) and to do something else they may like in addition to that. There are so many ways to use what you’ve learned or experienced as a model to help you on starting something new and that resonates with you. There are more opportunities out there than you can imagine. 

Thomas de Lucca
Top Bershka

Credits

Model Thomás de Lucca @D’Management

Photographer Anthony Pomes

Talent as a discipline: the story of Francesco Motta

Francesco Motta, aka Motta, is one of the best-known singer-songwriters on the Italian music scene. Born in Pisa in 1986, he made his debut as singer and drummer in 2006 with the punk and new wave band Criminal Jockers. In 2013 he studied composition for film at the Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia in Rome and composed soundtracks for films and documentaries.

Shirt and pants Di Liborio, bracelets Nove25, rings and necklace stylist’s archive
Shirt Di Liborio

His career as a soloist began in 2016 with the release of his first album “La fine dei vent’anni”, for which he composed lyrics, music and arrangements, and which earned him the Targa Tenco. The two singles “Ed è quasi come essere felice” and “La nostra ultima canzone” of 2018 anticipated the release of his second studio album, “Vivere o morire”, with which he once again earned the prestigious award ‘Best Album of the Year’. Motta participated in the 2019 Sanremo Festival with “Dov’è l’Italia”, a song with social connotations about migrants, winning the evening of duets together with Nada.

Credits

Talent Motta

Editor in Chief Federico Poletti

Text Marco Marini

Photographer Davide Musto

Stylist Alfredo Fabrizio

Photographer assistant Valentina Ciampaglia

Stylist assistant Federica Mele

Hair & make-up Fulvia Tellone @simonebelliagency

Hair & make-up assistant Asia Brandi @simonebelliagency

Location Industrie Fluviali

Opening image: total look Gucci

Discovering the savvy angel Anna Ferzetti

Anna Ferzetti actress
Dress stylist archive, shoes Roger Vivier

Anna Ferzetti stands out among Italian actresses for her delicacy and elegance. As the daughter  of the great actor Gabriele Ferzetti, she began breathing in the scent of art right away, a gift that she has cultivated with commitment and devotion.

Step by step on her tippy toes, Anna has created a significant space for herself in the world of entertainment. With a filmography including few, carefully selected projects, in recent years the actress has set herself apart as a personality worthy of interest within the national movie and TV scene. Most notably, she has won over critics and audiences thanks to her bright roles in productions for the younger public and in popular comedies, including the Netflix series “Curon”, where we rediscovered her in 2020.
Recently she has been part of the cast of the successful RAI 2 series “Volevo fare la Rockstar”, but also of “Le Fate ignoranti” (“The Ignorant Angels”) based on the iconic Ozpetek movie.

Anna Ferzetti series
Dress Alessandro Vigilante
Anna Ferzetti tv
Dress jacket Valentino, boots Giuseppe Zanotti, rings Chiara BCN

Credits

Talent Anna Ferzetti

Photographer Davide Musto

Ph. assistant Valentina Ciampaglia

Stylist Nick Cerioni

Fashion assistants Michele Potenza, Salvatore Pezzella, Noemi Managò

Make-up Michele Mancaniello for #SimoneBelliAgency

Hair Simona Imperioli

Opening image: dress Alessandro Vigilante

The romantic fashion of Ann Demeulemeester, (also) featured at Pitti Uomo

The 102nd edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo is about to open its doors. This year features an exceptional special guest, who over the course of her career lasting more than 40 years has written indelible pages of the history of fashion with a capital F: in fact, the Ann Demeulemeester brand will be the guest of honour of the Florentine kermesse, as the protagonist of a special project curated by the same Flemish designer that will animate Leopolda Station during the four days of the event (14-17 June). It is a significant part of the brand’s relaunch strategy, which has been under Claudio Antonioli since 2020, added to the three collections designed so far by an internal creative team, as well as the reopening in September 2021 of the flagship boutique in Antwerp, a place intimately linked to the (glorious) past of the Belgian label.

The store was redesigned by Patrick Robyn, Ann’s husband and close collaborator, and is a showcase for the label’s new direction under the aegis of Antonioli. An entrepreneur, owner of the eponymous multibrand and already one of the co-founders of New Guards Group, he acquired the brand a year ago, determined to restore it to its rightful role. Indeed, it was the founder who brought it to the top of the fashion world as one of the Antwerp Six: the six designers (in addition to Ann, Dries Van Noten, Marina YeeDirk Van SaeneDirk BikkembergsWalter Van Beirendonck) who graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in the early 1980s and would soon make an indelible mark on the fashion of the time, becoming a fundamental part of fashion history.

Ann Demeulemeester: the beginnings

Ann Demeulemeester portrait
Ann Demeulemeester in her studio, Antwerp, 1999 (ph. by Kevin Davies)
Antwerp Six
The Antwerp Six

Just think: born in 1959 in Waregem, West Flanders, Demeulemeester had considered dedicating her time to painting in the beginning, as attracted as she was by Flemish portraiture, but soon realised the expressive strength of clothing and enrolled in fashion design at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. She graduated in 1981, giving rise to the brand that bears her name four years later along with Robyn. In 1986 she joined forces with the above-mentioned university partners: they rented a van, filled it with their own creations and travelled to London to exhibit them at the British Designers Show, where they were a huge sensation. Their proposals, on the other hand, were astronomically far from the pomp prevailing in the eighties, a decade characterised, stylistically speaking, by shoulders, baroque, glitter and much more, their touchpoints were rather more in step with the conceptualism driven by the innovators who had arrived in Paris from the Far East a few years earlier, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo.

Ann Demeulemeester’s creative inspirations

Having gained notoriety, Demeulemeester began to detail her very particular vision of ready-to-wear: in her opinion, clothing is a means of communicating, an emanation of the creator’s personality, of her sensations, experiences and interests. The Belgian creative orients the latter towards the verses of poets like Rimbaud, Blake or Byron, on the music that expresses the anxieties of the youth of that time (Doors, Velvet Underground, Nick Cave…), on those paintings that, in youth, had pointed her towards the art school of Bruges. As a teenager, she then came across the cover of Patti Smith’s album Horses, with the cover featuring the artist in black and white wearing a superbly androgynous outfit (the work of Robert Mapplethorpe, cursed genius of American photography); she fell in love with the music and even more with her style: in her academy years she made three white shirts and managed to send them to the singer’s address in Detroit.

Patti Smith Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester with Patti Smith

The priestess of rock became her muse, and a friendship and mutual esteem soon arose between the two, with Smith even signing the introduction of the monograph published by Rizzoli USA in 2014, which retraces over 30 years of the label’s history with words and images, dwelling on the sentimental value that the garments signé Demeulemeester have for her (“I draw great power from wearing Ann’s clothes. They make me feel safe […] They are a talisman”, she wrote).

First collections

In the brand’s collections all this translates into a twilight romanticism veined with melancholy and bohemian spirit, in the chromatic absolutism of black and white (sometimes broken by flashes of bright colour), in the tension between opposing elements (rigour and delicacy, body and lightness, fluid shapes and others adhering to the body) that characterise every outfit, a real leitmotif of the designer’s work.
The first women’s fashion show in Paris was held in 1991, in a bare art gallery where severe, blatantly dark looks broke out, crushed by critics branding them “funeral directors”. She adjusted the bar, made her silhouettes drier and further refined her vision with almost scientific precision, while remaining elusive with unambiguous definitions and easy categorisations, which soon began to tickle the interest of the press, buyers and simple observers, struck by the designers cutting-edge, often deconstructive, approach.

Menswear did not take long to arrive, and in 1996 men’s outfits began to appear, seamlessly mixed with the women’s releases, a choice that was repeated in subsequent collections until the creation of a specific line in 2005. Besides, Demeulemeester never paid too much attention to gender distinctions, clearly ahead of today’s gender fluid. Men and women therefore shared many of the cornerstones that, season after season, forged the maison’s aesthetics: the insistence on fluid and elongated lines, bias cuts, preferably graceful, naturally soft fabrics (silk, rayon, jersey, linen), with textures reduced to a minimum even in the most dense materials such as leather or cloth, surfaces punctually rippled by layering or clever draping, the copious use of belts, ribbons and cords, as if to support garments from which a sense of precariousness emanates, of only apparent carelessness which is then the essence of Demeulemeester fashion.

Ann Demeulemeester collections
Ph. Erik Madigan Heck for Nomenus Quarterly
Ann Demeulemeester collections
Ph. Erik Madigan Heck for Nomenus Quarterly

The success of the label and her retiring from the stage

The brand’s man has a perennially dreamy look and a noble but tormented soul; a bit the maudit of today, a bit rebellious metropolitan style, with relaxed-fit trousers and crumpled blazers. A hint of vanity is granted with the use of feathers, a decoration that exemplifies the dialectic between natural sophistication and eccentricity that is so dear to the designer: thus feathers resting on wide-brimmed hats, attached to necklaces, bracelets and other jewellery or even covering the boas wrapping around the clothes of the Fall/Winter 2010 show.

Ann Demeulemeester runway
Ann Demeulemeester S/S 2007 (ph. by Giovanni Giannoni)

The brand’s consolidation process reached its peak with the S/S 1997 collection, a symphony in black & white punctuated, for the men’s part, by hints of layering, widely unbuttoned shirts and pants almost liquid in their looseness. This time the critics enthusiastically applauded the textbook performance, the New York Met Costume Institute purchased several key pieces, and the cult brand status became clear. Her withdrawal from the scene was a surprise in 2013, communicated with a handwritten letter. She was succeeded by Sébastien Meunier, who worked in the wake of his illustrious predecessor, introducing minimal variations from time to time, fluorescent touches here (S/S 2016), softness with decadent aesthetics of a closed bedroom there (S/S 2018).

Ann Demeulemeester black white
Ph. by Erik Madigan Heck

A new turning point: Antonioli

The new turning point came in the summer of 2020 when Meunier left the maison and after a few weeks Antonioli, one of the brand’s first historic retailers, took on the role for an undisclosed amount. The founder was (re)convened to play the role of creative consultant, some already hypothesise her greater involvement, her niche, while the new owner speaks to MF Fashion of a ‘new beginning’, yet to be written. Basically, it is a rethinking of the concept of masculinity, finally called upon to recognise all the fragilities, doubts and fears inherent in the human soul: the masculine ideal of Demeulemeester is present more than ever.

Ann Demeulemeester b&w
F/W 2021 collection

Matthew Zorpas, the first “digital” gentleman

When it comes to savoir-vivre, elegance and men’s style (concepts that are often overused but still hardly investigated in their countless nuances), Matthew Zorpas is the perfect person to examine the state of the art of everything relating to modern gentlemen’s customs and habits. Exactly ten years ago, this multifaceted Cypriot creative entrepreneur, Londoner by adoption, launched the site ‘The Gentleman Blogger’, which quickly became a touchstone for menswear and lifestyle in general, addressing outfits (often formal and highly recognised, for instance Esquire UK magazine included him in its annual ‘Best Dressed Men’ list in 2010) as well as travel (another passion and atout of the founder), wellness, tips for a community of passionate, demanding and cosmopolitan people.

The Gentleman Blogger influencer
Coat Paul Smith

In short, Zorpas proved to be a true forerunner of the matter, focusing on men and their interests well before the crowds of male influencers (or self-styled ones) on social media today. The numbers attest to his success, together with all the brands with which The Gentleman Blogger has collaborated over the years, from IWC to Tod’s, Fendi, Bentley, Nespresso and many others.
We had the chance to talk with him during his shooting about what distinguishes true gentlemen today, the impact of Covid on men’s taste in clothing, the changes affecting the men’s fashion industry and society as a whole, from the transformations in the communication scenario full of influencers up to the metaverse.

Matthew Zorpas Instagram
Total look Pal Zileri, shoes Church’s, watch Cartier

For several years now you have been considered a role model for contemporary (and aspiring) gentlemen, as the title of your – very popular – blog suggests. What distinguishes a true gentleman in 2022, what are his qualities in terms of style and otherwise?

I have seen the definition, attitude and form of the term change over the last ten years. At the end of the day a gentleman is pure, it is all about soul. It’s not an act or a lifestyle but a living. It’s not a forced, well-thought-out bespoke suit, but a casual choice of dressing up. It is so much easier to dress like a gentleman today and yet so much harder to carry the qualities of one.

The Gentleman Bloggercrosses the ten-year line this year. This platform allows you a privileged view of everything related to the male universe. In your opinion, what are the main changes that have affected menswear and, more in general, men’s lifestyle over this period of time?

I founded The Gentleman Blogger in 2012 and have been on this wonderful ride for ten years. I have seen the industry shift its attitude from arrogance towards influencers to embracing us, cheering us and choosing us. I have seen men’s lifestyle shift from proper and standard to relaxed and diverse.

Matthew Zorpas Gucci
Jacket Gucci @Tiziana Fausti (www.tizianafausti.com), shirt and scarf vintage

You prefer a personal style marked by sophistication, elegance with an ‘old school’ flair for tailored suits, patterns and motifs in the best British traditions, tuxedos, perfectly cut garments. Yet the lockdown, remote working and other consequences of the pandemic have deeply changed (and often negatively) formal attire, which had already been affected by significant transformations caused by changing consumer tastes and habits. How do you think formal wear will change in the future?

Change is welcomed here. Fashion is an industry that must follow consumers: it is for the diverse and knowledgeable consumer. It will continue to reflect movements, political or environmental crises. It is our job to make sure it moves and changes, it predicts and follows. Sadly, those who hold back will fail. Don’t translate this as an expansion in offering choices and options, but more on doing what is true to the DNA of the maison and doing it well.

Matthew Zorpas fashion
Total look Dolce&Gabbana, watch Cartier, burgundy ring Bulgari, shoes Christian Louboutin

Covid also impacted influencers between restrictions, closures and other disruptions, prompting them to change the tone and type of content posted on Instagram, Facebook & Co. Not to mention that this industry was already grappling with unprecedented challenges, from the ‘saturation’ of space to the pitfalls of virtual ’competitors’, the metaverse and other innovations that could soon change social media as we know it. What can you tell us about this, what is the state of the art in influencing?

Influencers as an industry will be here to stay for many years ahead. Just like the publishing industry had its run, we will need to allow the digital space to expand, grow, develop and when the right time comes it will clear and decline. We have not experienced the peak yet, as we are only now experiencing the years of transition from offline to online. The upcoming generation Alpha is developed and dedicated to online only.

Speaking of the metaverse, what’s your take on this? Could – and should – gentlemen also carve out their own space in a virtual reality based on pixels and avatars?

I am aware of the metaverse, it is not my personal space or choice. I am aware of TikTok too, it’s not my space though. We need to remind everyone that we have a choice to be anywhere we want to be. New platforms or worlds shouldn’t be there to replace the old but to satisfy and please the consumer.

Matthew Zorpas jewels
Total look Emporio Armani, ring Nikos Koulis

Travelling is one of your great passions, you have always cared about the world of hospitality and you have also collaborated with the Ministry of Tourism of your country Cyprus. After the Coronavirus ’storm’, do you think there will be structural changes in this sector?

With the beginning of the pandemic, every sector or industry had to implement structural changes, especially in the western world. From deliveries to production, to tourism and hospitality. With my team and the Cyprus Deputy Ministry of Tourism, we managed to put together the first open air social distancing ‘RoundTable’ event in 2020, followed by the ‘7AM campaign’ in 2021 and ‘ImagineBeingHere’ in 2022. We needed to rebuild the dream when there were no flights to the country, rebuild the need for people to visit when flights opened up again and now we are reminding visitors of both as we go back to normal.

Matthew Zorpas bio
Total look Zegna

Can you name at least three garments/accessories that should never be missing from the wardrobe, the ‘never without’ of every self-respecting gentleman?

There is absolutely no basic garment that anyone must own. We break every rule and every single one of us needs and should own whatever is necessary to them. I used to always say a double-breasted suit and a tuxedo. Now you can have a plain white t-shirt and Levi’s jeans and be a gentleman. Let’s move on with the times.

Matthew Zorpas style
Total look Alexander McQueen

Although making predictions is risky, how do you imagine The Gentleman Blogger in ten years’ time? What might characterise the gentleman community in the near future?

The Gentleman Blogger has been a wonderful adventure. I’m quite pleased with the change, the innovation, the creativity, the passion and community that has loved and surrounded this amazing project for ten years. I have no predictions about how my next project will develop but I’m excited to embark on the next adventure with the strength, purity and health to fight for it to become a success.

Credits

Talent Matthew Zorpas

Photographer Georgios Motitis

Styling Giorgia Cantarini

Stylist assistant Federica Mele, Emma Thompson, Mariam Ajami from MA Fashion Styling – Istituto Marangoni London

Location The Dorchester

On the Road, the epic of music tours in the Pirelli Calendar 2022

After the stop due to the pandemic in 2020 (an event rather rare in the history of the publication, interrupted only in 1967, with the exception of the hiatus in the period between 1975 and 1983), the Pirelli Calendar comes back in dazzling form and relaunches itself, we might say. All this with specially designed packaging and a song, both by Bryan Adams, singer-songwriter with a brilliant cursus honorum in music – over 100 million records sold, three Oscar nominations, five at the Golden Globes, 15 (with one win) at the Grammys – who, since the 1990s, has embraced an equally successful photographic career, shooting covers and editorials for magazines such as Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, Vanity Fair, L’Officiel and Zoo.



On the Road, the title of The Cal 2022, also shares its name with the Canadian artist’s song, a preview of his new album So Happy It Hurts, due out next March. The calendar, which comes in a square vinyl LP-like package, features an ad hoc logo, celebrating the company’s 150th anniversary, alongside the elongated initial of the tyre multinational.



The underlying thread of this year’s edition is therefore the journey, presented in a tribute through images to the era, in many ways distant and unrepeatable, of great music tours, microcosms in their own right, with their own rituals, places and times. In such things the celebrities of the day took shelter out of the concert, between relaxing breaks in majestic suites (such as those of the Chateau Marmont, buen retiro of the rich and famous of Hollywood, location of glossy shots along with the Palace Theatre, also in L.A., and the Hotel Scalinatella in Capri), hairstyling and make-up sessions, moments of focusing backstage, huge luggage sets, limousine transfers and futuristic recording studios.



To interpret such a complex theme, suspended between loneliness and vitality, intimate atmospheres and references to rock stars iconography, the author brought together ten A-list names, among the most representative of international music from the Sixties onwards: St. Vincent is featured on the cover (as well as in the February photo, where she poses in the nude, faintly illuminated by the rays filtered by Venetian blinds). St. Vincent, a chameleon-like performer reluctant to any classification, figures here with a platinum bob, and, while sticking out her tongue at the observer, shows a Pirelli-marked pick. Next up is Kali Uchis, wrapped up in a nude illusion garment, with fishnet stockings and femme fatale lingerie showing; Cher, absorbed in who knows what thoughts in front of the dressing room’s full-wall mirrors; Iggy Pop, bare-chested (how else?) and covered in silver dust, ready for one of his legendary punk histrionic performances; Rita Ora, seductively posing in a bathtub in a metallic knit dress; the theatricality of rapper Bohan Phoenix, standing on a piano in cargo trousers, combat boots and silver opera gloves. The all-star cast is completed by Grimes, Jennifer Hudson, Normani and Saweetie.



Adams himself closes the roundup conceptually and in practice, being photographed in the December pages in a classic American car, putting an end to the on-the-road itinerary between music topoi and old-school stardom. It is a visual tour that deserves to be explored in depth by visiting www.pirellicalendar.com, where you can discover behind-the-scenes footage, unpublished texts and interviews with the protagonists of the 48th edition of The Cal.


5 HISTORIC KNITWEAR BRANDS TO (RE)DISCOVER

Spells autumn, reads knitwear: with temperatures dropping lower and lower, we need to get ready with pullovers, preferably in warm and cozy yarns, and above all wool. The options are basically endless, from evergreen shades such as navy blue, black and grey to eye-catching, frost-proof textures or remarkably fine, almost intangible. In any case, it’s best to play it safe choosing brands with decades of heritage with certain quality and blazonry, such as the following five.

Missoni

When you say knitwear, the mind immediately goes to of one of the most representative dynasties of Italian fashion, the Missoni family. For the fashion house founded almost seventy years ago by Ottavio and Rosita, work and life partners, knitwear has always been the at heart of a company with strong family connotations, the gateway to a success able to encompass decades, as well as changes in clothing habits and customs. Thanks to jumpers bursting with colours and flamboyance, Missoni-mania exploded in the 1970s, on both sides of the ocean: it was impossible to ignore the extravagant, multi-coloured, hypnotic patterns weaved across the garments produced by the designer-entrepreneurs’ workshop in Sumirago, in a joyful blend of shades, stitches and motifs that the Americans called “put-together”.

Crowned “best in the world” in 1971 by none other than the New York Times, knitwear earned the brand the Neiman Marcus Award in 1973 for “daring to explore new dimensions and colour relationships”, features that still distinguish the brand’s collections today; the Fall/Winter 2021 collection is no exception, in which Missoni’s expressive zeal bursts onto jumpers, turtleneck pullovers and cardigans with slouchy lapels through the familiar jumble of lines, intricate patterns and graphic textures, including mottling, enlarged chevrons, stripes creating optical games, and colours that fade from dark to light, or vice-versa.


Missoni family
Missoni pattern
Missoni n3
Missoni n4
Missoni n5

Ballantyne

Rising to fame in the 1950s thanks to “Diamond Intarsia”, a technique that made it possible to trace the typical elongated rhombuses on sweaters that made the Scottish brand’s fortune, Ballantyne celebrates its hundredth anniversary this year.

Admirers of the diamond pattern on its pullovers include royals, Hollywood stars and world-famous jetsetters (from Alain Delon to Jacqueline Kennedy, James Dean and Steve McQueen). Even Hermès and Chanel, impressed by the label’s ability to treat the finest fibres to perfection, entrusted them with their knitwear. In 1967, Her Majesty honoured Ballantyne’s signature knitwear with the Queen Award.

The company is now run by former artistic director Fabio Gatto, who, in order to bring it back to its golden age, has combined jumpers inlaid with the unmistakable argyle with a wide, varied range of weight and fineness, capable of satisfying lovers of ultralight under-jackets and of enveloping pullovers, as well as capsule collections from the Lab line, in which the production virtuosity of the house meets the fresh vision of young designers cherry-picked each time.


Alain Delon Ballantyne
Ballantyne n1
Ballantyne n2
Ballantyne n3
Ballantyne n5

Drumohr

With roots firmly planted in Scotland, the land that originated this century-old brand (in business since 1770), Drumohr has been speaking Italian since 2006, ever since it was acquired by the Ciocca group.

The Brescian company has moved production from the United Kingdom to Italy, while paying the utmost attention to keeping intact the craftsmanship that, throughout the 20th century, had conquered actors, aristocrats and ultimate models of chicness, from the King of Norway to Prince Charles, from James Stewart to Gianni Agnelli; It was the latter, guardian deity of male elegance eternally imitated (with poor results, it goes without saying), who made Drumohr’s “razor blade” a must-have, renamed “biscottino”, a pattern consisting of small rectangles spread rhythmically on wool or cashmere.

Combining artisanal know-how and ceaseless research, the collections now include colour blocking, micro or macro inlays, embossing and precise reworkings of the pattern dear to the Avvocato, which do not disdain rather bold colour choices, matching, for instance, blue with pistachio, orange with burgundy, turquoise with burgundy.


Drumohr n4
Drumohr n5
Drumohr n1
Drumohr n2
Drumohr n3
Drumohr n6

Malo

A history that is approaching the half-century mark; an entirely Italian manufacture, concentrated in the factories of Campi Bisenzio and Borgonovo Val Tidone; an idea of understated luxury, which lets the quality of garments with exquisite yarns and exquisite craftsmanship speak for itself. These are the pillars of Malo, a brand founded as a producer of cashmere knitwear in 1972, when Scottish dominance over the sector seemed untouchable. Despite that, it managed to establish itself thanks to the rich, vibrant palette of its pullovers constructed to perfection, bien sûr.

The company reached its peak between the 1990s and 2000s, then started a decline, interrupted in 2018 by a trio of entrepreneurs (Walter Maiocchi, Luigino Belloni and Bastian Mario Stangoni) who took over ownership, handing back an absolute central role to the craftsmanship of the offer, centred on cashmere from Mongolia, sometimes mixed with equally precious materials, from alpaca to silk and vicuña, nicknamed the “fleece of the gods”.

Deluxe fibres are, of course, at the heart of the F/W 2021 Boulevard collection, in which the nuances, architecture and charms of the great metropolitan boulevards are transposed onto extra-soft wools, in cool colours (above all the different shades of grey, the true passe-partout of the collection) or bright colours, inlaid with tiny geometric reliefs or slightly distorted braids, ribbed or compact, for garments with measured, clean volumes that the brand defines as “timeless and urban-chic”.


Malo n1
Malo n2
Malo n3
Malo n4
Malo n5
Malo n6

Pringle of Scotland

When it comes to high-profile knitwear, thanks to its centuries-old traditions and incomparable wool varieties, Scotland is unrivalled, and this is even more true for a brand that refers to the country’s genius loci right from its name, Pringle of Scotland.

Founded in 1815 by Robert Pringle in the Scottish Borders, it is credited with at least two “patents” that were destined to have a profound effect on the fate of the wool industry: in the 1920s, it invented the argyle pattern, the iconic – it has to be said – lozenge pattern, promptly adopted by Edward VIII, Duke of Windsor, the unrepentant elegant and supreme arbiter of male good taste of the time, immediately imitated by the aspiring epigones of international aristocracy. Another feather in the label’s cap is the twin set, the combination of a crew-neck jumper and ton-sur-ton cardigan that has become a pillar of bon chic bon genre style. Basically an authentic national pride, it is not surprising that Queen Elizabeth, a distinguished customer of the knitwear factory, awarded it with the Royal Warrant in 1956, an honour certifying its status as official supplier to the House of Windsor.

Still made in the Hawick factory, Pringle of Scotland garments can be purchased from the comfort of home on the official e-shop, choosing from a fair range of relaxed fit models, from the ever-popular argyle jumpers to sweaters of vintage appeal, with the lion (a symbol retrieved from the archives) woven on the chest.


Pringle of Scotland Grace Kelly rid
Tilda Swinton Pringle
Pringle n1
Pringle n2
Pringle n3

Translation by Zoran Trevisan

Krug presents the Grand Cuvée 169 èmè Èdition champagne

“Champagne helps the wonder,” said the writer George Sand. Even Krug must think so. Krug is one of the main maisons in the world of sparkling wine. To celebrate its last edition – the 169th one – of Grand Cuvée, it developed a series of immersive musical experiences online to enjoy in front of a glass of wine of the new Èdition. This synesthetic experience merges wine tasting, sounds, voices, and audios 8D. It is curated by the Belgian songwriter and producer Ozark Henry and the VOCES8, an international choral singing group. 



The project is a musical interpretation of the Grand Cuvèe, the best symbol of the brand set up in 1843. The wine production, carried out by the Chef de Caves Julie Cavil, has similarities with the work of an orchestra director who has to connect different instruments. Every year, Cavil and the tasting committee start a creative process by tasting hundreds of wines to evaluate the melodies, and then they proceed with the composition, in which each of them is essential for the final result. 



In this case, the starting point was the harvest in 2013. It was an exceptional year that gave the wines chromatic elegance and fullness, further accentuated in the blend with dozens of reserve wines from different vineyards and années (the oldest is one of 2000). The result is a champagne with soft and refined tones, lively effervescence, characterized by floral, fruit and citrus notes, with touches of gingerbread. It is suited to a wide variety of matchings, from simple food such as aged Parmesan to gourmet dishes, from fish (oysters or grilled prawns) to desserts (carrot cakes, cheesecakes, tarte tatin). 

The Grand Cuvée 169 represents the last chapter of a century-year-old process started by the founder Joseph Krug, an idealist and unconventional winemaker who aspired to obtain, year after year, the best champagne, regardless of climate change. His dream is now honored by the first chapter of a series of immersive experiences.



Among the estimators of the new entry in Krug’s maison, there is the chef Ciccio Sultano of Duomo di Ragusa, two Michelin stars kept from 2006, and a brand ambassador. He praises the maison because it is an expression of simplicity (which, according to him, is a synonym of uniqueness). He matches the KGC 169 èmè Èdition with four basic dishes: caponata, olives with onions, tomatoes and basil, sauce of anchovy and crunchy bread. Together with the wine, they create “a moment of lightness and carefreeness that we all need”. What better way to toast the post-pandemic restart? 

Chef in Town- a food and beverage column curated by

Intl Editor Francesca Romana Riggio