Author: Redazione MANINTOWN

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Our suggestions to step into the new season with great style

You may have noticed that the spirit of Berluti and the cult of the “patina” in particular is focused on what time can bring to life?
No sooner was Haider Ackermann appointed as Creative Director at Berluti than he was struck by the idea of fashion which could develop over time.
As he was working on this collection, he was permanently conscious of the way in which a well-made pair of trousers or a coat become more attractive as they develop a patina which makes them more desirable and precious to us. Haider’s mood board included words such as “Trash”, “Dark” and “Wood” and focused on the concept of a man waking at dawn after a wealth of nocturnal experiences. Certain paintings by Francis Bacon provided the inspiration for the unusual colour combinations which Haider had in mind. Blues and powder pink hues clashing with burgundy for example. Taking these basic concepts as his starting point, Haider Ackermann designed this collection as a list of key pieces: You will find a black leather aviator jacket with just a hint of red crocodile on the collar lapels, and a red lining. There is also a bomber jacket, made entirely out of fluffy nylon on the inside with a grey cashmere outer.There is a soft, smooth velvet tuxedo in royal blue which is suitable for everyday wear. A cashmere sweater with a large roll neck, made out of a single piece with just two seams, is like a second skin. There are lace-up boots in an emerald green which is almost black, but still green enough to make a real statement. There are exquisite yet casual bags. But first and foremost, we are inviting men and women alike to play a part in this show by imaging what exquisite patina these clothes would soon develop if you owned them.

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Listen to the savage call. This collection combines the comfort of the urban outfit with the outdoor spirit of trekking and the patterns that arise from the natural energy. Nowadays, men yearn for a new relationship with elegance, that integrates the sensitivity for the natural fabrics. By continuing to pursue the aesthetics of the functionality, ISSEY MIYAKE MEN proposes a workwear which includes the essence of the forest as a view through a spectrum of blending colors.

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Oscar Wilde Venue, travelling from London to Paris: a sort of path in the path, that revived the Alexander McQueen A/W 2017 collection, on the steps of one of the most beloved writers of literature, the firts and real dandy, a style icon: with his look on more rigorous, formal first, and then more amused, curious, as he approaches to the world of Paris.
Faithful to the values of the house, the AMQ collection is based on fine tailoring interventions: the shoulders are high, the pants are available in two distinct versions – tight and straight to the leg the first, and the second flared, sometimes finished in velvet or with a band of satin on the flanks. The jackets are characterized by the classic Paisley pattern, Prince of Wales and Tattersall, with shirts from silk neck ivory, white cotton poplin, striped or with the corresponding print design.
An iconic ceremonial cape, finally, that refers to the world of peacocks, great, embroidered with gold thread, a hymn to the last eternal memories of Wilde.
www.alexandermcqueen.com

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Sartoria Pirozzi, Napoli

Here there are no great numbers, only great passions. There are no million-Euro sales receipts, just small artisanal workshops where the hand and the heart are intertwined like thread. Like that of the legendary Ariadna given to Theseus to help him out of the labyrinth; in this case, of bad taste, and directly into the capable hands of the modern tailor. Here, the word “baste” has sartorial dignity. And the scissors are the only mechanical object. The rest is made up of dedication to the work and a passion for beauty and the finely crafted. Italian tailors are the new touchstones of masculine elegance, the point of comparison when buying a suit or choosing a jacket or overcoat. The guardians of an ancient tradition, handed down from father to son, these workshops today are recognized as playing a role of primary importance to the promotion of Made in Italy quality and expertise. To each his own… tailoring.
Dotted throughout the beautiful territory from north to south, are bespoke tailors each with his own story and style essense, as demonstrated by Domenico Pirozzi, a veritable repository of Ars sutoria intelligence acquired from his father Nunzio, who is now one of the most esteemed tailors from Neapolitan tradition. “Each of the garments we create is rendered unique by the completely handmade construction from freehand cutting without paper patterns, to the choice of quality fabrics,” says Pirozzi, a pillar in his family’s art (the tailoring shop was founded in Naples in the early ’60s). Pirozzi, also with a decade of experience at Kiton, continues, revealing the secrets of his craft: “each of our suits exudes softness and wear-ability, granted from the perfect cut and the fine materials that we use.” Of course it does not include the look and taste of the clothing: “a feature that distinguishes us is surely the slightly wider collar, with proper tailoring for current style codes, always soft, while the shoulder is smooth with a slight curve. It is an international, self-assured look.” The Neapolitan school of tailoring still has a lot to teach us in matters of style, thus, the Sartoria Pirozzi with its atelier on Via Gramsci, also organizes trunk shows abroad, exporting its style sense around the world as far as Japan.
A few kilometres further south in this hypothetical sartorial migration, we arrive in Salento, or more precisely in Martano in the province of Lecce, where we find Sartoria Colazzo dal 1966. Already the name proudly acclaims its many years making passionate fans of made-to-measure ever more elegant. Today, Alessandro Colazzo, together with his brother John, continues the family tradition alongside their father Arcangelo, founder of bespoke laboratory. Alessandro himself also lives and breathes the image of fine tailoring, becoming its first online advocate, “the web is useful- that is undeniable- it is the first window into a tailor’s work if he wants to lead the way in our times because with just one click you can bring reach people across a great distance. But to really understand what this art is about, you have to enter into the tailor’s shop, not just glance in through the window”. And it is also he who reveals the secret of today’s tailoring, “the Colazzo Tailoring tradition has its roots in the mid-60s. Every past era has brought forward with it unique and inimitable characteristics. Today our tailoring sees garments made entirely by hand, like the weaves of the fabrics made from natural camel hair and horsehair, made to measure for every customer. The sotto collo is “punticiato”- worked- by hand, which might seem trivial, but it gives the jacket a unique softness and wear-ability. Same goes for lapels, and not to mention the one-of-a-kind process for creating the “mappina” sleeve, which gets its name from the tea towels our grandparents used to use, that gives the jacket such lightness and ease of movement that the man forgets he is wearing it.”

Continuing up the Apennine mountain chain (well, sort of), you arrive in Florence, at Liverano & Liverano, who since the ’40s has been one of the most prestigious manufacturers to make its home on banks of the Arno River. Recently, the atelier has formed an unusual creative partnership with denim giant Roy Rogers, overseen by the Sevenbell Group, to produce the first sartorial jeans made in Florence, thus finding a creative meeting place between two seemingly irreconcilable worlds, whose future will breathe new life into bespoke denim.

Following the hypothetical thread that sews together Italy’s made-to-measure experts, we arrive in Milan, more precisely in Varese, where Sartoria Vergallo is based and run today by Gianni Cleopazzo, spokesman for the next generation of hand tailoring. He explains how the Cleopazzo style has clear ideas “the goal is to meet the demands and the tastes of our customers, who are all different. As a result, we do not like to impose on them our own style. For us, the customer is the one who likes to dress in an exclusive and personal way- of course we are talking about a person who appreciates the hand-made, and above all understands the time and cost required for the to produce a hand-made suit.”

Crossing over the Alps, you can still breathe the air of Made in Italy tailoring. Even in Antwerp. Thanks to Massimo Pirrone, a manager with sartorial background, who created his brand PM Eleganza Milanese, in Belgium in 2013. Despite being located outside the Italian border, the tailoring atelier wears the red, white and green flag because Pirrone relies on Italian manufacturing to create his garments. His sartorial fingerprint is identifiable as “reshaping the fit of menswear garments, to be appropriate for the younger crowd.” Star founder of his brand, Pirrone is still very active on social networks- its Instagram account has over 55k followers- because “we also put a little lifestyle [on Instagram], not just the suit but also everything else. In fact, followers often ask my advice on clothing, especially younger ones.” In matters of style Pirrone has a clear inspiration: “as a way of thinking and creating, I am inspired by Tom Ford, but Agnelli’s elegance will always be number one for me.”

The sum of all these examples demonstrates a vital, living, breathing sector, increasingly out to turn men’s made-to-measure fashion into the quintessential frontier of masculine elegance today.

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MANINTOWN presents L.L. BEAN Heritage Experience, an event to know the history of an American historical outdoor brand, which debuts for the first time in Italy. A special event to taste Tuscan specialties and immerse in the L.L.Bean heritage and lifestyle.
In 1912 Leon Leonwood Bean laid in Maine the basis for the creation of L.L.Bean, which has become in a century an empire of the outdoor. Handmade backpacks, bags, clothes and accessories; the offer renews itself and grows from season to season, but the cornerstone remains the iconic Bean Boot, the life partner in the open air in nature, as well as in the city. A brand that tastes like authenticity and owns the color of Maine’s nature, where it was created and where it is entirely produced by hand by local artisans. A brand impressed in the Americans’ past, so much that it has become a neologism, thanks to the Bean Boots, the boots with the camel leather leg and dark brown rubber upper, created for fishing and become synonymous with life close to nature and with adventures in urban backgrounds. Backpacks, bags, accessories, clothes, equipment to live safely in the open air, in the countryside, as well as in the city, in the mountain, as well as on board a kayak. L.L.Bean refers to a universe of products designed to last, 100% guaranteed.
Influencers and blogger will participate to the event, in order to live the L.L.Bean experience, by conveying the extraordinary history of the brand, through the hashtag #llbeanheritage.

llbean.com

HERITAGE EXPERIENCE EVENT
WEDNESDAY 11th JANUARY 2017
FROM 17.00 to 21.00
TRATTORIA COCO LEZZONE
Via del Parioncino 26 R – FIRENZE

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S&X is an exciting collaboration between iconic photographer Rankin and award winning fragrance designer, Azzi Glasser created under her own label, The Perfumer’s Story by Azzi.

The perfume is the translation of images and perceptions: what Rankin manages to do with the lens, capture the essence in frames, Azzi can do it with the olfactory sense, by enclosing in a bottle the desire for something provocative, mysterious and exciting. “S&X is also naughty and humorous. I love it.” Said the talented Ph. S&X will be available globally with key retailers Net-A-Porter, Liberty, The Conran Shop, Fortnum and Mason and Harvey Nichols as well as www.theperfumersstory.com.

 www.theperfumersstory.com

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Combining fashion, design, eco-friendliness and functionality in the same item is not easy, but the Comme des Garcons alumnus, Junya Watanabe, the always eclectic and visionary designer, has succeeded perfectly: the trench coat he has designed has four small solar panels positioned on the back, two on the front and a special internal coating tool that allows you to recharge the battery of your mobile phone.
The aesthetics of the trench lack nothing in beauty or style but the functionality of the item remains its real trademark. The Watanabe coat is available from July 2016 also on the e-tailer ssense.com.

Images: Kenta Cobayashi

www.ssense.com/en-us/feature/this-is-your-final-look

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Photo by Jill Schweber

In front of the multiplicity of existence, we can not help but ask ourselves an important question: what does it mean “I” today?
Perceptive Variations, the second photo exhibition of the project THIS IS ME NOT BEING YOU – TIMNBY, curated by Micaela Flenda in collaboration with The Candy Box, Studio modulo and Graficartiere, investigates how the contemporary world, technology and the social media have created new human beings, bodies, icons, fictitious gods, which contain in themselves the esoteric need for collective identification. The fierce desire for identity is back urgent and necessary and the collective exhibition,m composed of 8 international authors: Linda Brownlee, Cristina Coral, Can Dagarlsani, Parker Day, Polly Penrose, Katrin Olafs, Camille Rouzaud and Jill Schweber, beautifully demonstrates it.
Perceptive variations awaits you at the opening on Wednesday 23 November from 18.30 to 21.00.

From 23 to 26 November 2016
via Circo, 1 Milan
Opening 23 November, 06.30 pm – 09.00 18.30 pm

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Homme Plissé by Issey Miyake rediscovers the charm of Japanese erotic prints Shunga and of Ukiyo-e style, very popular during the Edo period (1603-1867) and it takes inspiration from the provocative, irreverent graphics of this movement, in order to print them over coats, kimonos and t-shirts, by giving the male look a highly iconic and ironic accent. Not only in the lines, but also in the graphics with an emphasis on the different forms of erotism, you can find the smart playfulness, typical of Miyake, and a will to surprise, starting from the reality, the truth: a sort of artistic movement, that has been often subject of exhibitions (like that in the British Museum in 2013) and that has involved famous international painters and artists.

isseymiyake.com

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Moncler continues its path of support for creative lever of the younger generation that has always been one of the cardinal points of the particular philosophy of the brand, that this time arrives in London with Moncler Freeze for Frieze. A project organized in collaboration with a prestigious cultural and educational institution such as the Royal College of Art.
Moncler Freeze for Frieze was held from 7^th to 9^th of October 2016 in the new flagship store Moncler in Old Bond Street 26 and has served to raise funds in full support of two very talented and deserving students during an entire year course of study of specialization in Fashion & Textile, at the Royal College of Art.
Moncler has asked artists, fashion designers, iconic universe of culture, music, global design and friends of the Maison, chosen as representatives of different areas, but also by involving pupils and next to the diploma of London school, to donate their art-work to be exhibited for the first time in an external space out of the College.
The works, about 400, all in post-card format, and signed only on the back, have been sold at one price of £ 60 each., at the opening event of the flagship store on October during London Frieze 2016.
Guest- curator of the project is been the renowned journalist Tim Blanks. A special selection of post-card has been sold exclusively through the e-commerce of the Maison moncler.com and the proceeds were donated to the Royal College of Art.

www.moncler.com

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Holiday, the bi- annual publication written in English but based in Paris, a real editorial must of the ’60s, founded in the United States and known for the extreme care of the photographs, the covers and the reports from the world made by recall journalists, on the piece, which told the reality without filters nor flattery, back today – thanks to the passion and support of the Parisian atelier Franck Durand – with a new look, while preserving the structural and stylistic cornerstones that have made the success of the magazine.
The new issue of Holiday is dedicated to South Korea: after Argentina, Holiday has chosen to dedicate its pages to the wonders of this mysterious and in many ways contradictory country. While photographers Nigel Shafran, Jamie Hawkesworth Karim Sadli, Annemarieke Van Drimmelen, Robi Rodriguez, Joseph Szabou and Park Hyung-sik Kim lend their precious eyes to the wonders of this land, the director Park Chan-Wook told everyday scenes, the poet Lee San-Ha He delves into the long history of Buddhist temples and Arthur Dreyfus writer testifies to his nice outing in a country full of strangeness. All this under the blessing of the wonderful Isabelle Huppert, who confides the author François-Henri Désérable and tells about a divided country, equal parts between despair and beauty

www.holiday-magazine.com

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David Sims photographed in NY the 2016 Fall / Winter campaign for Theory, the brand founded in 1997 by Andrew Rosen, who took part in the French actor Alain Delon Fabien as a new face of the brand.
Sims’ portraits show a continued evolution of the essential elements of the male wardrobe, like coats, practical and dynamic for a man who travels, moves through city traffic or in the waiting rooms of the airports. The fascinating play of light and shadows of the photographer further reinforce the idea of timeless; functional design of the garments give Delon a look of worldly sophistication and frame an elegant and pure collection.

www.theory.com

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For the FW16 New Balance relaunches one of its iconic models – the MRT580 – reinterpreting it with a precious Jacquard processing. The 580 model, the five star street-sneaker of New Balance, is revived in a futuristic and made one of the strongest trends of the coming season: the Jacquard technique – a process that involves the use of a very high frame precision able to achieve very complex patterns weaving the threads one by one, and creating textures and patterns absolutely unique. The classic ‘N’ logo in white stands out even more nuanced effect of the upper and invokes the full white of light and technological sole REVLite.

Price: 130 €

www.newbalance.it

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For the third consecutive year, in 2016 Triumph Motorcycles will encourage riders from around the world to wear their dress more elegant and take to the streets riding a classic motorcycle in demonstration of its support for Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride as Global Sponsor: a unique charity motorcycle event.

The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride was born in 2012 as a celebration of the art of elegance and style of classic bikes. Dedicated to raising funds to support the fight against prostate cancer, the 2016 edition will be held Sunday, September 25.

In September 2016, with the support of Triumph Motorcycles, the Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride aims to get 50,000 participants who take part in the event in more than 500 cities in 90 countries in the world.

www.triumph.co.uk

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New York is the location chosen by Roy Roger’s for the new FW 16/17 campaign starring the Russian model Vita Sidorkina Life Isaac Carew, british model-chef.

The images in black / white translate the codes of denim, telling a metropolitan and sophisticated mood: “It ‘a campaign that expresses the personality of the person wearing the jeans through the essentiality” explains Guido Biondi, Creative Director of Sevenbell Group.

The Ph. Philip Gay captures the precious soul of the collection declining it in a series of shots where the item is the protagonist.

www.royrogers.it

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It ends with an exciting match at the prestigious Tang Polo Club in Beijing, China, the 2016 edition of the Maserati Polo Tour, which took place during the year on six polo fields among the most prestigious in the world. The Polo ‘China Open’ 2016 tournament attracted many of the best polo players globally and has offered to the guests of the event the opportunity to experience the exclusive Maserati cars.

The atmosphere of the event was further enhanced by exposure of the cars of the Trident house and their parade during the celebration phase of the event, involving both car enthusiasts both fans present. Maserati has exhibited for the occasion two models presented in the course of 2016, including the new Quattroporte – and additional versions GranLusso and GranSport, with a redesign of the exterior, interior and innovative technological equipment – and the new Levante SUV, both available with the petrol engine built by Ferrari to Maserati and with diesel engines.

www.maserati.com

www. lamartina.com

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The Tuscan hills frame the new campaign emblematic Siviglia Man FW 2016, which, accompanied by a light and nostalgic piano music, unveil the new collection of the Italian brand.

The simplicity of the location is synonymous with authenticity, as the Siviglia brand, offering innovative leaders not to mention the high quality of Made in Italy, which is presented in the new campaign video, not just as class features of the head, but also as a style of life, of thought and origin of things.

The black and white it is a wise formal choice, which transports the viewer into a world gone by, in which authenticity and tradition are among the key themes of the brand. The colors of your photo also reveal the nuances of the collection, which reflect the elegance and timeless style man Siviglia. The video is produced by a team of young Italians living abroad, which gives it an international flavor.

www.siviglia.com

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Fragiacomo, historic brand of luxury accessories, supports the Mimmo Rotella Foundation Award which was presented on Sept 3rd and 4th, during the Venice International Film Festival.

The prize, awarded to James Franco for the film “In a dobious battle”, but also to the director Paolo Sorrentino and actor Jude Law for “The young priest” opera, it’s a work of Mimmo Rotella, and it wanted to reward films that symbolically continues the decollage artist’s investigation into the wonderful combination of visual arts and film.

The Italian fashion house, founded by Dante Fragiacomo in 1956, is the image of exclusivity of Italian products in the world: to celebrate the great Italian artist Mimmo Rotella, Federico and Massimo Pozzi Chiesa have personally awarded the winners delivering a prestigious accessory Fragiacomo in limited edition: iconic “luggage bag“, made of precious and exclusive leathers.

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Rankin has collaborated with the Scottish brand, manufacturer of Whisky, The Macallan for the launch of “Double Cask”, a distillate with an intense and enveloping taste.
The result is a spot with a remarkable visual aplomb, on the border of a fashion film and a surreal short: the protagonists are the models Tuuli Shipster and Max Rogers: the director takes us into a parallel, almost visionary world, through a game of mirrors and sensations as a contemporary Alice, the protagonist begins a sensory journey through the identity and taste.
A metaphor about a minute on thin layers of single cask, and also on double identity, about what we allow ourselves to be when we decide to change: in the end the protagonist emerges from the fantasy world – he’s at a bar surrounded by friends again –; the images and the power of the Scottish brand, the elegant bottle of advertising object, pierce the screen.
Double cask: a far greater experience than just liquor.

www.themacallan.com

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Reebok Classic celebrates again Kendrick Lamar, award-winning artist at the Grammy Awards 2016, with a capsule collection FW16 who wants to make his mark in the wake of the success of previous collaborations.
Classic Leather Perfect Split Pack has been realized thanks to the invaluable support of renowned designer Ian Paley, for man and for the woman who wants a sophisticated and elegant look, but have an underground spirit and do not give up wearing a shoe with an unmistakable groove.
The sneaker develops in a harmonious way the concept of “Perfect Split“, interprets and represents perfectly the conflicting traits of American rapper personality, and declines them through a symbolic “separation”, which is realized through the double staining of the sole.
Authenticity and originality have always been the hallmarks that join Reebok Classic and Kendrick Lamar: to celebrate these values, the famous photographer and director Nabil Elderkin has created a dedicated campaign, exclusively using vintage equipment.
The capsule collection will be available from August 1^st on the website and in selected fashion stores.

www.reebok.it

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DIADORA celebrates the sporting event of the year with an extraordinary project that brings together the world’s elite of sneakers for an exclusive capsule whose inspiration is drawn from two models of Diadora collection of 1988. The protagonists of these absolutely unique reworkings are in fact two Catalogue running’s shoes that were created in 1988 specifically for Diadora athletes who went to Seoul: IC 4000 and Intrepid.

IC 4000 was designed for floor or paved surfaces and has become famous for its “impact control” system while INTREPID is a shoe built for speed on the medium and long distances.

Each release will be accompanied by a pack clothing that includes a jacket, a shirt and a bag, even these unique interpretations of the Diadora store models worn by athletes in 1988. All items are reviewed in the materials and colors, but retain design, cuts and style of the original models.

In September, all packs will be available exclusively at two temporary store dedicated “From Seoul To Rio” in Rome and Tokyo.

www.diadora.com

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Nike celebrates the perseverance of the greatest athletes in the world and brings the summer of sport with its “Unlimited Campaign” which covers the recent series dedicated to the athletes and encourages everyone to embrace an “unlimited” mentality.

“Unlimited Future” was created by Weiden + Kennedy, directed by Damien Chazelle and the American star Bobby Cannavale. The athletes are represented Neymar Jr, Serena Williams, LeBron James, Mo Farah and Zhou Qi.

nike.com

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